Miata / MX5 Wheel Arch and Sill repair : Rear Fender and Rocker panel
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2022
- In this video we continue to replace the outer arch and sill section on a Mazda MX5 / Miata
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Great work currently cutting mine out to replace. Did you lap the new arch over for costs? Would butting it be better? Also what thinkness metal do you recommend for the sill and rocker panels ? Thanks
Really love watching your videos, you really take your time to do everything right which a lot of people don’t these days.
thank you Tony, we do try to show how with a little patience you can do it yourself :)
Bloody brilliant again, could watch these videos for hours!
Thank you again Zach :)
This is real craftsmaship. I'm really enjoying watching your videos.
Thabk you Arthur the compliment is much appreciated :)
this was so fun to watch
Super work, great video
Amazing work ! You guys make it look so easy and precise, with all panels and repairs just snap together ! Thats proffesionalism and years of experience ! A great video top one 👌
What a quality job,another mazda saved
I Love this. Makes me want to work on my rusty VW LT and Volvo 66. Would be lovely to get a place to work and start cracking! These videos make me more confident I can learn and tackle this myself one day
they are cars worth saving from rust :)
Looking good 👍 fantastic work as always I’m sure the customer will be over the moon 👍
Hi Lee , thank you once again :)
Great master 👍😊
Excellent video cheers
Thank you Peter :)
Nice work as always! Took autobody in vocational high school, loved it, but became an electrician! 😉
Hi Mark, i did the same and originally became a computer programmer but quickly changed back :D
Nice work! I did the same repairs on my NA and NB recently. These are great cars:)
They are great cars :)
I love the smell of filler dust in the morning - or any time rally - never was able to apply it as well as you do ! - another masterclass and entertaining as always
Thank you Colin :)
amazing work! this is pretty dang close to what I need done on my mx-5 and I have no clue how to get it done! hahaha
Keep watching and you should get the hang of it :)
Just so much artisan talent what welding setting do you use ?
Brilliant Steve, I'd been watching your YCR videos and never associated it with MX5Ms. It's only through this week that I've gasped and said "OMG it's Steve" and the penny dropped.
You won't recognise me from Piig fpv, but you saw the quads in my 'beautiful' MK2 on Saturday, so yes, it's Me, Neil....
If you'd like to use mine as a feature when you do my chassis rails, you're more than welcome.
Keep up the good work bud....
Hi Niel, how are you :), you are correct it is a beautiful mk2 :) Let us know when you would like booking in :)
Hi just after coming across your channel, loving it so far, what are the pros and cons of lapping the repair the repair panel over butting?? Does lapping not cause moisture to trap as cause more rust??
Thanks
hello,you don't put a rustprotector on the metal ? before you begin with the filler ! by the way...nice work
HI Steve, great vid and work as ever. I have seen some vids thT sY use epoxy primer before the filler. Can you advise what I need to do please, many thanks again, your long time fan, Joe
Hi Joe :) Some do some don't. I don't and never had a problem with over 20 years of restoration, I think it's just preference.
@@yorkshirecarrestoration thanks Steve. It's unlikely that my mg will ever be used in the rain again so if you don't use it I will follow your lead. Many thanks again and as I said I love the vids, Joe
@@joescully566 thank you Joe. We do appreciate the support :)
sealing wayy better than welding on he inside. stops that rust coming from the wlds
Love watching the NA's being brought back! I have an NA which I bought patch panels for because the previous owner cut them to run flares for SpecMiata. My question is, since they also cut the inner arch of the rear quart off, will I have trouble lining up the patch panel back to stock body width? I was planning on fabricating the inner arch after i mocked up the patch.
Cheers!
Hi Vincent, when we have that issue we put the outer arch on first then the inner :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration Thanks! :)
As always, great content!
Looking to do this next year, would it be a good idead for me to also epoxy primer the new panels post weld/cooldown before smoothing with filler? Cheers!
Not many vehicle repairers primer before filler but it won't hurt :)
👐👍👍
Steve yet more MX5 sorting made to look easy, another weekly MX5 treat! As always some questions.
Why did you use two kinds of filler and what are the different products.
I have small work lamps that damage easily when dropped. What make and model are the little magnetic lamps you use on the wings as the seem to stay fixed on better.
As always thanks for the MX5 fix!
Not a body shop guy by any means but the first coat is probably a reinforced high build filler to create the shape of the panel and the second one is a finer surface filler to allow better feathering between the repair and the original panel - but I'm sure other with far greater knowledge can help
Hi Eddie :) thank you for your support as usual :)
The first layer was fibre glass past, this is used as it’s waterproof so if there any pin holes in the weld it will be watertight so not let any water through to the paint layer.
The other coats were filler, this is used as to shape the panel.
We use a few brands but two very popular ones are isopon p38 body filler and isopon p40 fibre glass paste.
Lamps are always expensive if you want one that lasts, I have several but they are all Snapon brand so cost about £100 each. They are deffo worth it though as it takes a lot to break them :)
Not far off Colin :)
Hi Steve, long time no see. We gonna get a resto vid on that rx7.
yes there will be a vid on the RX7 :)
Loving the videos but wondered if you could answer a technical question.
Would you still have used panel bond if the inner arch had a shock absorber mounting?
Reason for asking is I'm looking to get stuck in with a Mk2 Cavalier that will need rear arches.
if it solely relied on no other structure then i would have either welded in additional support or i would have spot welded the arch back on :)
Hi what brand fibreglass filler is that? I can’t seem to find any fine fibreglass filler
After years of not using a lightweight full-face shield, the son chucked a couple at me yesterday - to use when grinding.. Have to say I am now a big fan - you can grind away with the sparks coming straight at you (which is usually the angle the damn grinder needs to be at to see what you are doing..) and feel nada. No more sparks banging off yer face around the safety glasses.
I have tried a cheap on and it just got in my way haha maybe invest in one a little better :)
I also pinched yer idea of having a magnetic light shining on where you're welding.. :-) No more holding a torch like a wally for me. Yep - have to say, much handier. Nice one. :-)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration Son bought me a Posh lightweight one - it's invisible when you're wearing it, after 10 seconds you wouldn't know it's on your head, but it's rated for withstanding everything up to a handbag, or some such. Have to say I do like it, especially for wire wheels - them sprigs are sketchy when they come loose.
Without criticizing, I would like to know the reason why the plates are superimposed and not aligned as I have seen other professionals do
Cost :) it's what the customer could afford. :)
Where do you get your replacement panels from as they seem to be a decent fitment?
We get them from a trade only supplier but you can get the same panels from mx5parts.com
im a noob, is there a benefit to this vs just buying a new rear panel? wouldnt buying a new rear panel be cheaper?
I've got couple of questions:
- It looks like most of galvanized surface is removed during the welding/preparation. My concern is despite new panel being galvanized, most of this protection is lost. Isn't there a way to keep the galvanized surface untouched?
- Wouldn't it be better for corrosion protection if you put epoxy primer firstly, directly on bare metal, to give it best moisture barrier?
- Cutting with angle grinder has tendency to overheat steel; isn't it possible to use nibbler instead for cutting panels?
- considering above concerns from amateur, how, as a specialist, do you estimate time before first signs of corrosion appear (in area of welds, non galvanized steel)? considering that car is used as a daily and kept outside; do you give any warranty for such repairs?
Hi Lukas
no way of welding galvanised steel, the gave coating needs to be removed first but still the inner outer is all galvanised only where the weld is so still plenty of galve protection and a lot better than the alternative that is none.
epoxy primer burns away when you weld anyway so no benefit, even weld through primer dose.
we use nibblers as well but a disk is cleaner and quicker sometimes, the amount of heat that is transferred through a cutting disk is minimal and we dont see any warping.
we have see our repairs years laster and have never seen any issues with rust if looked after, the removal of the galve isnt a problem if all arear are protected after the repair, sprays, primers, waxoils etc.
we do offer a very good warranty with all our work and if different for different levels of work undertaken.
If you could spray it from inside the trunk.
How much would something like this cost?
At today prices a rear arch and sill section replace, painted and protected is about £575
No concerns about zinc poisoning from grinding the galvanised panels, guys? Have a friend who is still badly after grinding a bonnet back, years ago...
Hi Neil. No not really as long ppe is used :)