Strong and Easy Paint Job | How to work with Hammered Paint
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- čas přidán 25. 11. 2020
- In this video we are talking about how to work with hammered paint. This is a durable and easy to use finish, but it has some interesting properties to it that you don't see on most types of paint. Let's check it out.
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The reason those trigger cans are harder to clean is that unlike a regular spray can, they are designed so that you can spray them at any angle, even upside down. With a normal can you would just get propellent if you sprayed upside down, but this also allows you to clean the nozzle.
Great product. I used heavy coverage on vintage expanded metal lawn furniture x 4 years ago bc it hid all the chipped paint with little prep. Hid all imperfections. Furniture sits outside in Pacific Northwest with minimal cover, easily 1000 days of rain later. Looks great.
Not only is this the BEST CZcams video on hammered paint, but it is also about the only one that is GOOD; even Rust-Oleum’s own videos are crummy.
I guess the bar is set low haha.
@@BradAngove Lol. I know it was three years ago, but how did the blue coat turn out and hold up? I am curious about trying something similar, perhaps with a candy coat, as the color selection on hammertone paints has dwindled in recent years (all metallic now, at least in the U.S.).
@micpoc4597 I haven’t done a durability test on it, but I think that thing is still painted the same haha.
Good finishing info! Brad rocks this topic!!
Thanks for taking time to do these videos, they’re really interesting and useful.
I’m glad you like them.
I've dabbled with this paint two times. First time yielded perfect results, second time, not so much. Still looked good, but not the hammered finish I was trying to achieve. I'm kind of a semi pro when it comes to rattle cans 🤣, but this is a different ball game with the silicone additive (which I just learned from this video). I've called Rust-Oleum multiple times for tips and advice on using this product, and I learned more in ten minutes from your video, than I did from the people who make it 😒. They literally told me multiple light coats, and that's just not the case when using a paint with silicone, as you need it thick for the silicone to do it's job. Just wanted to say thanks!
Glad I could help
Nice job and it explains alot on the coating of hammer finishes.
Love your videos my man. Its inspired me to do my own project instrument whilst restriction are effecting all of us nation wide. Iv watched pretty much all your videos at this point. Thank you for the content. We anticipate your next upload. Stay safe dude
Thanks Mike. I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos.
Well, again a top video! Very useful. Rob
Cheers Rob
Thanks so much for this!
Hammered Paint
first, you get hammered, then you paint
😄
Works every time.
Lovely 😊 Thanks bro
I recently painted the hammer paint on a bunch of chromed carts at work that were really beat up . Looked like brand new when I got done . No primer . Also did a vise along time ago that still looks fantastic . No primer also . Next time I’ll try priming but it doesn’t seem to need it . Thanks Brad !
Ya the stuff sticks pretty well. Doesn’t need primer as bad as some stuff for sure.
I used black hammered paint on my strat trem parts, jack plate, string trees and neck plate. Came out pretty cool looking.
Nice. I’m glad it turned out well.
I have coated hammered paint with spray can clear polyurethane. I waited about an hour in 80 degree low humidity whether. I then applied two more coatings of the Poly, waiting an hour in between each coat. I then carefully removed painter tape on the edges that I did not want covered.
It felt dry after 48 hours, but that was just the surface. (When pressure was applied it left an indentation under the polyurethane in the hammered paint.)
So I stored the project in a dry, dust free environment for 2 weeks to let the hammered paint fully dry and cure under the polyurethane. It turned out great.
I think the reason the polyurethane was able to adhere to the hammered paint so we'll, was I applied it while the hammered paint was still tacky, and the first coat of polyurethane was able to cure at the same speed of the surface of the hammered paint.
To add more scratch and uv protection, I waxed the service with car wax.
Used this a bunch . Don’t care for trigger tops. My favorite is gloss black base, flash for 3 or 4 min. Lay silver hammerite over the gloss black. Check back half hour. I like that finish. Works well with the other colors as well.
I usually shake cans quite a bit before spraying.
Just discovered that hammered spray paint likes to sag if sprayed properly (heavily) on a vertical surface. Spray it heavily on a horizontal surface to eliminate sag.
what a great video very interesting.
Thanks!
Informative, thanks!
I have always wondered how those worked, thanks for the demo. The only textured type paint I have used is the truck bed liner, and that is some good stuff. They claim you can paint over it, but I have never done it myself.
I’ve used truck bed liner on a tool box. It was great.
I've painted over truck bed liner and had no issues but I allowed the bed liner a good week to cure before applying paint over it
Cool paint!
Thanks Blake
A hammered finish is great for hiding imperfections. I sprayed the plastic skirting panels several years ago all the way around my van, including the bumpers. It's the hammered Tremclad copper. Everyone thought it was done professionally by a body shop. It wears like iron with no damage years later after being hit with road debris and scrubbed clean.
Fantastic
Look at those gunsss
Like the misted look
Great video as always bro!!! Happy Thanksgiving Brad....
Thanks Jay. Happy thanksgiving.
Hope yours was awesome dude!
Mine was in October haha.
I knew it!
I just restored an old fan and the hammered paint just came out rough and bumpy. 😠
I figured the trick must be to lay it on thick. Thanks! 😃👍🏻
Glad I could help
There is an old timer bakeware that is very popular again that looks like the blue overcoat you did at the end. I can’t for the life of me remember what it’s called, but I imagine dIY crafters would love this tutorial. I personally wanted the hammered tin look, so thank you!
Enamelware??
I restore old machines for a hobby and like the way hammered paint hides imperfections in cast iron and sheet metal. I thin it with xylene and brush the first coat. I then use a rattle can to go over any hard to reach nooks and even out the finish on the parts that show. I get better coverage and the paint goes a lot further than rattle cans alone or an HVLP sprayer. And the finish is very durable.
Handy comment. I'm restoring a vintage cast iron planer and I'm thinking about using this. Do I need to use the primer first? I sanded everything to bare smooth iron already
@@mariano_353In my opinion, it is always best to prime bare metal but not necessary for previously painted surfaces that have been sanded. Brushing also provides better coverage and adhesion because the brush rolls any tiny particles that may have been missed during final cleaning so they are fully coated and stick better. You can also roll the first coat on and back brush it to achieve the same result. The rattle can provides a nice hammered finish to the areas that show.
@@Roy-ij1wq thanks Roy
I'm thinking a blue/turquoise base - copper sulfate/cupric oxide colors. Then the copper hammered paint (not full coverage) - then going back over the top with dry brush or wash in a verdigris color.
The extreme example of this is the Jake E Lee Charvel guitar he used for the "Patina" photoshoots.
That sounds pretty wild.
I'm making a 3d printed skyrim iron helmet and I think the hammered paint will look nice on it. Debating between that or airbrushing.
Love the Hammered Look but never have good luck with those types of triggers.
Ya, I much prefer the old can style.
I read the instructions on that paint, and it said you're supposed to get hammered on some Molson before spraying for best results. Happy American Thanksgiving, Brad!
Yeah, I'm with you. I've never worked with hammered paint, but many are the times I have painted hammered.
Cut it out... in Canada the Molson costs more than the can of pain!
Molson hey? Hockey game beer haha.
Great channel and content, thank you! Any thoughts on using this on a motorcycle gas tank? Many thanks again!
I’ve never tried it of course but it seems like it would work fine. I guess the question is whether it’s solvent/gasoline proof. I’m not sure.
@@BradAngove Thank you Brad!
condensed and useful information, thank you. Did you experiment any more with topcoats? I refinished my kitchen sink copper hammered rustoleum can. It looks amazing but started to blister around the drain when I left water in it overnight. I did prime it with automotive primer since the recommended primer didnt adhere to the original factory coating on metal sink. One product review said they used urethane but the urethane says not to use on metal. It really looks amazing like a $300 sink so Id like to find something that works. Maybe an aquatic sealer used for boats?? would love any suggestions
I have not found anything that works well as a top coat for it, but I also haven’t done much looking in a long time.
Great job. Let us know when you do a guitar body with the darker hammered paint. I'm going to try it on one of mine and then will be doing a bass with the caulk paint. Have you tried the caulk paint Brad? Would like to know your recommendations. I know they sell a clear for caulk spray, so that may help protect it.
I’ve never tried that. I’m intrigued by the idea though
@@BradAngove Ill be waiting for ya on that one. I do like the idea, how easy it is to do without sealer/primer. I would still use primer though, just in case. Take care Brad and thanks for the quick replay.
Another great useful video - I recently painted a speaker enclosure. Texture paint may have worked well as an alternative to wrapping it. Is there any kind of texture that can come close to simulating a wrapped appearance?
I’m not familiar with one that looks quite like that, but the first thing that comes to mind for me is truck bed liner. You can get that in a can and it’s got a grippy texture. I painted one of my tool boxes with it a while back.
I did the same thing for an enclosure with 2 x 12 Greenbacks in black. It turned out great. Im very proud of it. The wrinkle paint would be the closest thing to a vinyl I think. But Im happy with the hammered. My Marshall looks great sittin on top of it.
I recall doing water droplets or coarse water misting trying to achieve the hammered effect. Damn I'm OLD!!
I’ve never heard of that method. I used to texture wet paint with a sponge sometimes for a relatively similar effect.
I sprayed some parts with enamel and set them outside to dry. I fell asleep, and woke up to rain. My parts got rained on, and developed a really neat embossed pattern, layers of raindrops.
I’ve done it on the interior plastic of a truck in a car by letting it dry a couple hours and then hitting it with the fusion clearcoat comes out mirrored shine every time just make sure you let it dry light cold it with the clearcoat and do about five coats
I’m glad to hear that has worked for you. I would be hesitant to use fusion clear coat on it. I would think the hammered paint would actually be more durable than that clear.
Had one of those deals where I was looking through this kind of paint "STOP!... hammered paint!" then I get a bunch of corresponding video suggestions. This one is nice since I'm a subscriber, some are kinda creepy.
Yeah, the way that things get suggested on here is sometimes a bit disconcerting.
I'm thinking of using the black color on the interior of an aluminum boat restoration project. What are your thoughts on using it for that kind of application?
That sounds reasonable to me. The only thing that comes to mind is how hot the black will get, but I don’t know the context so maybe that’s not a concern for you.
Brad: Great vid. I have chocolate-brown painted wood garage doors in San Diego. I would like to achieve a weathered copper (blue/green) effect without buying a sheet of copper roll! I have the typical single car, double car doors for a total for parking for three cars...these are slab doors which date from the 80's but have been lovingly painted inside (ivory) and outside (brown) for years, therefore no termites or other problems. The neighborhood is filled with roll up, aluminum doors of recent vintage as the owners swapped out their old slab doors... so I like being different. What process would you suggest to achieve the blue-green patina in either bold or subtle.
I haven’t tried this myself, but I have heard that something along those lines can be achieved with the rustoleum reflective metal paint and apple cider vinegar.
I use WD-40 on my spray nozzles immediately after done spraying to clean the spray tip
I am applying this to my guitar body, looks amazing! Is it worth it to put a clear coat over it or is that going to be tricky with the texture? Just don’t want to set everything up and then have to re-apply another coat a few months down the road.
It’s pretty durable on its own and clear coat generally doesn’t play well with it.
Nice video, im about to prime and paint in hammertone a large fiberglass ute camper (truck camper) that I'm building.
Im assuming that despite the silicone this paint adheres to itself well for multiple coats without sanding or cleaning between coats..do you know if this is the case?
I have never applied more than one coat of this, so I’m not sure, but I find it unlikely.
@@BradAngove thanks for the reply, I'll give the manufacturer a call
It is harder to use on vertical surfaces as it tends to run and also gets an uneven look to the hammer finish. Tricky to paint all of a guitar body if all the surfaces have to be horizontal.
They don’t have to be. I’ve done the back of a guitar body hung up on this channel before. The stuff doesn’t run that easily.
Thats way better than i imagined. So youre saying another heavy coat of the same thing it will be even broader?
I don’t think a subsequent coat would broaden it.
I wanted to find what they used to paint those classic green thermos's. I have heard this called tanker paint, is that correct?Turns out Stanley thermos is painted with Hammertone Green!
I’m not sure; I assumed those were powder coated or something like that.
Im restoring a vintage worm drive aluminum skilsaw. Going to self etch prime and hit with Rustoleum Hammered Silver.The aluminum is pitted and rough so it's a reasonable solution for me. NO CLEAR
Great idea. I have an antique electric drill that I inherited from my Dad that had a silver hammer finish from the manufacturer on the casing. A thick coat of the Tremclad wears very well.
I have silver tin ceiling tiles that I would like to paint with this hammered paint. Do you recommend spraying or rolling this on. It is approx. 550sqft
I would be more inclined to roll it on if it were me. Less wasted on overspray etc.
If you roll on a large vertical surface, should I thin it at all? If yes use Xylene?
OR is it ok to roll on without thinning?
I would thin slightly with xylene if it were me just because it’s a bit difficult to roll large surfaces with this stuff, but you don’t necessarily need to.
Hi Brad, how would you use hammerite (hammered paint in the UK) on wood? What preparations would you need first?
Great video, cheers.
S.
You would want to prime it first. If it’s open pore you would fill it before that. I used hammered paint on the back of that sg I did for the Home Depot guitar kit challenge if you’re looking for an example.
@@BradAngove I missed that series, I will go find it.
I have always wondered if I would need to primebit twice - first with wood primer and the second with the hammered paint primer, silly question I know...
Thanks for your answer, I will find the home depot SG build.
Stuart.
I've been looking at the hammerite brand hammered texture metal paint. The price in the USA is outrageous compared to Rust-Oleum Hammered paint. Could someone tell me the difference?
While decorating my kitchen I dribbled a tiny amount of hammered paint on my worktops. It won't come off but looks realy nice. How durable would it be if I painted my laminate tops?
paint the rest of my laminate worktops with it
It is generally pretty durable. More so than most finishes.
I’m getting ready to Copper hammer paint a laminate Fume Hood. Would you suggest to spray it and should I seal it after wards, if so suggestion with what? It is off the wall and on saw horses at the present time, but after watching your video, is this the best plan to avoid drips.
You can spray it or roll it. Whatever your preference is. I explained the sealing issue in the video.
If you want to avoid drips you just need to make sure you’re not spraying too heavy, particularly on corners.
@@BradAngove thank you for your response. I’m starting the project tomorrow.
Would this paint be hard wearing enough to paint an old lathe and would it need a primer to fill imperfections in the castings?
Yes it’s fairly durable. I’d say filler would be better than primer by the sound of what you’re dealing with.
What do you recommend to get the paint off your finger? I've watched a bunch of your videos, but never thought about this one.
Anglegrinder
Wow that escalated quickly. I usually use a green scotch pad. The smart play would have been to wear gloves haha. Abrasive hand soap also works reasonably well, like the gojo orange stuff.
Sandpaper actually works for superglue.
@@gunnerjohnson5445 💀💀💀💀💀🤣
Hello. Great video. I was trying to paint a fridge with a roller and it splotched all over. So I saw your video and your suggestion to add Xylene to slow down drying time. Stores don't carry that anymore, for environmental reasons, so I got a paint solvent which said it could be used in liu of xylene. It smelled like acetone. I called the Rusto-leum and they said to mix it a 10-15% ratio, which did not work. So I added more. The paintbrush streaked really bad both ways (10% and more) so now their are lines all across the fridge. Just letting you know the dilution thing may not be a solution.
Sorry to hear that. We still have xylene available here. Where are you located?
@@BradAngove Southern California.
Oh, that makes sense.
I need your help please. About 20 years ago I loved hammerite brand hammered texture paint for metal. It is outrageously expensive now! I saw that Rustoleum makes Hammered paint 4 metal also. I was wondering if Rust-Oleum bought their formula but hammerite is still in business with Crazy Prices that that comes from the UK or somewhere. $69 for a quart of paint? I've had so much luck with this paint. Would you please give your opinion if Rust-Oleum hammered finish would work just as well?
I’ve never used the hammerite, but the rustoleum has worked well in my experience.
I have a small aluminum cargo trailer. You think this would be a great paint for it ? I picked up 2 cans of grey hammered yesterday
This is probably a decent option for that if you want to avoid a full automotive type finish.
How does it react on wood ie guitar body?
Prime it first and it works fine.
Can you spray the quart version from a hvlp gun?
You can if you reduce it with xylene, but it makes a serious mess of the gun.
What's the best thing to use to clean your spray can nozzles between uses? & is there a specific technique I should use? Any help would be appreciated big time!
You can just soak the nozzles in paint thinner.
Thanks for this video. On a rather large piece of furniture, I sprayed a thick coat, hoping for larger indentations. Instead, it dried smooth, with almost no texture. What did I do incorrectly? Now, what can I do to get the hammered finish?
That’s odd. Sand it lightly and clean it, then spray again. This time spray from closer to the piece and make sure the can is very well shaken first.
...are you sure you didn't buy the 'smooth' hammerite can....😅
“Hammerong”
Im gunna stain the guitar, clear the stain, tape off and prime/hammer what clear do you recommend
You should be able to get away with an acrylic or a poly.
A long time ago I'm thinking maybe a year or more ago I mentioned using this product to you. Did you try it because I mentioned it or somebody else did? I just wondered. I'm not trying to get any extra credit I was just wondering that's all. I'm the guy who's from North Carolina who was a 40-plus year career veteran in doing all types of paints and stains, Coatings, wood repairs, you name it if it had a coating on it I've probably done it. I used this on the guy who had Wrought Iron furniture outside. He had used it himself and liked the look of it. This was outdoor furniture I'm speaking of. Every couple years I would redo his big nice deck and I would always redo the Wrought Iron furniture with hammered metal. It sat out in the sun 24 hours a day and I thought it was extremely durable considering that it sat in direct sunlight and it was black. For something to last two to three years in direct sunlight outside in the cold, Heat, rain and snow year-round like that is really good especially for black paint from a spray can. I like the way it looks so I used it on the guitar and it turned out great I only needed one can on the body I'm it's like $6 a can and I felt man this is like a sore peter you can't beat it!! $6, super durable and looks great so I mentioned this to you in one of your videos. Great for somebody that doesn't have a lot of experience because it's cheap, it's thick and does not run easily. It's almost mistake-proof. It doesn't require buffing or anything like that I just sand it lightly. At first I'll sand a guitar down to 220. Then I use this paint directly over the old paint provided is not beat all to pieces or coming off I can usually sand out most of the shallow defects with the 220 sandpaper. Anything that is deep enough to need repairs I like to use the general purpose Bondo because it is light gray and it is an excellent color to be underneath of all paint colors light or dark. Your regular Automotive Bondo is too dark red under light colors and may need more coats to cover whereas the gray is light colored is neutral underneath everything even White. It covers up easily with every color there is at least every color that I've tried. it's a permanent repair and easy to use if you have a NIC too deep or chip anything like that that is too deep to send out. Once the body is prepared did I just spray the hammer Mentor right over the old paint provided it's good and sound and not peeling off you don't need a primer it's 6 to anything really well and I usually send with 320 or 400 between coats maybe 600 or 800 between the last coat in the coat before it what 400 is fine or 320 either one if I have nothing else that's what I use. I don't just go out and buy some six or eight hundred for that only if I have it I'll use it from the next to the last coat that's what I use if I have it. Then I spray my last coat of hammered metal three coats is sufficient. you can put 1/4 code if you'd like but it's not in it and you can get by and make a nice-looking job with only two coats it's just that the third code really makes it pop to me. Whenever you're painting a house from scratch a three coat paint job is the best a primer and 2 finish coats for a total of 3 coats. Anybody who's a beginner should try this especially someone who doesn't have a lot of money and wants something easy to do. You don't need a primer just use this as your primer and do three coats on a guitar that's already finished and you're just changing the color or want to make it look new again. however if you're using it on a brand new wood body or any wood body with no finish on it I suggest using there Nick and fill primer from Rust-Oleum because it is nice and thick and it drives flat perfect for any finish to go over. Plus the Nick and fill primer doesn't run and it fills shallow Nick's so that when you sand it it Sands out level. God bless you and your family. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year best ever, Jimmy in NC....
Thanks for the message and the info James. I’ve been using hammered paint at the shop for about 14 years for various projects, so long before I started this channel. It’s definitely a useful paint in the right circumstances.
Merry Christmas and happy new year to you as well.
If you get hammered before you paint, you can get some cool effects too.
Like a face print in your work...
Would this paint be suited to painting radiators?
I’m not sure. I don’t think it necessarily has the heat resistance you’re looking for, but I don’t know how hot they actually get.
I bought this to paint my Mod T engine. How would this work on an already rough suface?
It tends to do fine in rough surfaces.
Rustoleum back-of-can instructions suggest a couple of medium coats from 12" away. That will result in NO discernible hammer effect - just a matte silver look. They ought to have said a heavy coat from 8" away - but so many people would have trouble applying that with no runs that the manufacturer has probably figured, supplying instructions for the wrong finish effect was the lesser evil. I've a feeling this is one type finish that is actually better rolled on from a can, because a sprayable formulation will necessarily have to be thinner which doesn't lend itself to this effect.
This paint doesn’t tend to run that easily, but rolling it also works. If you’re rolling it you need to thin it with xylene or it will tend to stick to the roller too much and get stringy.
@@BradAngove thanks! This weekend, I'll try the factory formulation, i.e. uniluted, with a sponge roller. The weather being hot, should help it flow better yet be thick enough for a deep, coarse-grained hammered effect.
@AlexKarasev you may find the hot weather causes it to set quicker and come up with the roller. I hope it goes well!
I’m looking to spray over rusted steel rims without having to do much proper cleaning rust. Is this the right thing if not which would you suggest?
I don’t know of anything that is designed to adhere well to rust.
@@BradAngove Hey Brad thanks for the reply. Great video
What primer do you recommend?
If you choose to use one rustoleum’s standard primer works fine.
I am a tube amp builder and I want to get that 50's hammered paint look but I can't get a smooth coat it looks light yours with severe orange peel super bumpy pock marked. Is the formula different from the old stuff which looks so smooth? I don't think this rattle can stuff is the same as the vintage stuff because I read an old amp pamphlet and they called it baked hammertone finish.
I don’t think I’m necessarily familiar with the look you’re going for. But, if you want it smoother, you’ll want to apply it much thinner so the chemicals don’t go on as wet and don’t cause as much pulling.
I do not plan to use primer because I've had issues with it in the past. What brand of primer do you recommend, and is it absolutely necessary?
I just use the rustoleum enamel primer. It’s not always necessary though.
Hi! I didn’t get the hammered look throughout the whole piece I painted. Can I do a second coat?
Yes, just sand it lightly first and clean it.
@@BradAngove thanks!!!
I know you recommend not applying coats over the paint, but how about an acrylic wash? Very watered down acrylic paint, do you think something like that would create any problems?
I suspect it wouldn’t stick very well.
I want to achieve if possible a green patina look and am wondering if I would spray green paint for the first coat would a topcoat of the hammered copper spray paint show thru and would you still suggest painting it deeply or lightly?
I’m not sure I understand what you’re going for here. Are planning on spraying copper hammered paint over green?
@@BradAngove correct
@@BradAngove Correct
You would still get some green coming through it you spray light enough. I have no idea how that will look in the end though.
@@BradAngove Worth a try. thanks
Is that just a bunch of fisheyes? I wonder if a polyester clear coat would be able to top coat that stuff?
That’s basically what it is yes. It pulls away in that pattern, and the reaction increases when it goes on wetter.
If anything would stick to it, polyester would probably be it.
Brad can you use wax to polish the hammered paint look? Is it necessary like other guitar paint jobs?
It’s generally not necessary to polish hammered finishes.
@@BradAngove Thanks so much. To make sure the surface is coated enough would it be a good idea to use both your techniques. A light layer for the metallic look first then a more pronounced heavier hammered look on top?
You could do that, just make sure you take a look at the information on the can about re-coating.
@@BradAngove Excellent! Thanks. Love your channel. Learning a lot. Moding my first guitar atm, paint and all.
🤣😂 guess people have weak fingers. The new spray cans are actually more expensive where I live than the old style
Hello What I want to paint is already hammertone gray and I want to change color to black so I wondering if I can paint hammertone over the existin hammertone finish
If you sand lightly and clean it with wax and grease remover it will probably work. I’m not certain though.
@@BradAngove ok thanks
Any idea how hammered paint works on wood?
Prime the wood first; then it works the same as on anything else.
Does hammered paint flake easly or does it flake at all if it's used on weight plates?
It’s pretty robust, but if you’re banging metal plates again eachother it’ll probably flake.
@@BradAngove I see, thanks for the reply
Would you recommend this paint on a guitar?
If you want a hammered finish yes.
Xylene seems to be very toxic and also illegal in my state. Is there anything else I can use to thin it?
Every option would be highly toxic. I’m not sure what else may work for thinning but I suspect there is some other option available.
I challenge you to painting a guitar in the original Zakk Wylde bullseye design?
You’re challenging me? Are you planning on doing one too?
Can you screen print on hammer powdercoat?
I suppose it depends on the ink type, but I certainly wouldn’t want to be the one trying it.
@@BradAngove thankyou..i guess ill k ow after i try
Can you spray on bare metal? Swing Arm for a Quad?
Yeah, but sand it first.
great and yes I'll do a proper preparation for sure.
The hammer paint which iam using forms craters in the coating finish.
Do you have any suggestions ,how to prevent craters?
What do you mean? That’s the point of hammered paint.
@@BradAngove iam facing pin holes and craters problem in hammer tone paint
Ok. Did you try to coat over it with something?
How did you prepare the surface under it?
@@BradAngove I just coat on phosphate MS substrate
I don’t know what substrate that is, but this paint should be on a clean sanded surface, and if you’re having trouble you should also consider using a primer under it.
So to clarify, is it true that other paints are incompatible and won't bond to hammered paint? Can hammered paint be top-coated over itself after the previous coat has fully dried? Thanks.
Other paints tend to react oddly to hammered paint because of the silicone. It can create an interesting effect, but isn’t what most people are looking for. I believe there are some comments in here about people top coating it, but I have never done it because of the compatibility issues.
Believe it or not, I often warm up my paint can for 30 seconds or so with a heat gun. Spray is more consistent... oh, boy... here come the comments... ;-)
I like to go with 5 minutes in warm water for an even heating.
can this be used on a range hood
As long as it doesn’t get insanely hot, which it generally shouldn’t, I don’t see why not.
Did you try this on a range hood, and if so, how did it turn out? #myburningquestion lol!
As a finish color, over sanded primer, has anyone sprayed gloss hammered black for two light coats, and finished it with two medium coats of satin dark or navy blue?
I want to have the hammered texture, but not so shiney, and I can't find hammered blue shades either. So I thought this would do. Both colors would be Rust-Oleum 2x brand laquer paints. I'd apply each coat about 20 to 25 minutes apart in the shade of an open carport so each layer wouldn't be wet, but just slightly tacky to surface feel dry.
Coating over the hammered paint doesn’t tend to work very well because of the silicone in it.
@@BradAngove thanks. I didn't even know silicone was in it. That's good to know. I also contacted Rust-Oleum just today. They said to spray the metallic blue and then wait at least 48 hours and spray their clear hammered product over it, and no sanding would be required if the clear hammered was applied within 7 days. Apparently that will help hide the minor body panel imperfections that I was trying to achieve. Thanks again!
I didn’t know they had a clear hammered product. That’s awesome.
@@BradAngove yes, clear and a frosted pearl.
Can you clear coat it with plasti dip?
I wouldn’t know. I don’t use plasti dip.
@@BradAngove FYI I used hammerite hammered to finish my bathrooms hardware in copper and gold. I used it in on steel wood and plastic. I originally bought the rust olem spray can aged copper and from experience it would be good for a project where it usbt subject to steam and water all the tine and chipped easily hence using hammerite. I tried a few clear coats with it ruining the finish hence then finding your video.
I decided to try a plasti dip clear coat I.e.wrapping of liquid rubber which you then finish with a gloss coat.
After trying lots of ways to get this clear coat not to ruin of the hammered effect I discovered 2 options. For Matt finish plasitoke sealer clear. You have to spray 60cm away and do 10 - 15 dust coats otherwise it will contaiminate. Best result was using gloss coat which was meant for the plasti dip. Called plasti dip gloss enhancer. You could dust coat with this with side effect until a thin plastic gloss layer is adhered. Definitely something imo you would need in my situation. Then you can apply any clear coat to this new layer 2k plasti dip etc. Anyways thank you very much for your vids and setting me straight in the difficulties of this
The pulling apart is called fish-eye not a good idea to spray non silicone paint over the hammerite
Seems like nobody wants to talk about rustolium hammered gloss clear. I wanna see what happens when u paint on top of that while wet
Are you sure there’s such thing as hammered gloss clear? Or are you talking about clear coating in hammered paint?
When I used this I guess my technique was bad. Some of the hammer effect is pronounced and some is very mild. It also looks shinier in some spots. I did 3 coats trying to blend it but it still looks uneven. My question is how do I fix it? I really don’t want to sand it all off.
Let it dry fully and you should be able to sand it a bit and add one heavier coat.
@@BradAngove thanks.
H E L P!
I agree anytime I clear coated Hammered paint it was a disaster. Leave it alone
Indeed. It’s not meant for that.
Yes, I tried spraying painters touch clear over hammered...what a mess.
It all pulled apart but I thought it was a reaction between paints ( oil vs acrylic ) but now understand it's that silicone in the hammered paint causing it. The light is on now. Thanks.
Anyone used the clear hammered paint? curious how this turns out.
I didn’t even know there was clear hammered paint. That seems like an odd product.
@@BradAngove i was trying to figure out how to achieve a Stanley hammertone green. Thinking I would use a green closest to it and top it with the clear. Not sure how that would turn out
That sounds like a reasonable plan. I’d be curious to hear how it goes for you. I would have thought the silicone in the hammered paint would make it difficult to produce a clear.
I painted some metal bifold doors with the silver. Didn't prime it first - big mistake. I am going to ignore these "self priming" claims moving forward. Not really happy with the end result, rather inconsistent and uneven finish. I am considering sanding and trying another coat because my technique was getting better. I should have dedicated a can to getting the hang of this on some random surface. This stuff is getting pricey though.
This product requires some finesse to get an even look unless you are just blasting it on there heavy.