Neck Heel Screws or Threaded Inserts
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2024
- In this Quick Tech video I talk about my approach to using wood screws in Fender style bolt on neck heels. I prefer to coat the threads with thin CA glue, then I also use a small smear of lanolin grease. This is both to lubricate the now harder threads and also to protect the fastener from rust. With these two steps, the screw will always "find" the original thread when you reinsert it, instead of cutting a new thread over the old one. In my experience, threaded inserts are rarely necessary.
- Jak na to + styl
Thanks Rob. The other thing I like to do when reinstalling neck screws is to turn them backwards until you feel it drop into the first thread then screw it in.
Yes, there's nothing like actually using your fingers to "feel" the screw engage. Using hand tools is another nice way to build up that "feel" for woodwork in general.
Another great video, Rob.
Make sure you use the CA glue prior to using any wax or grease for the first time on the screws. If there is already wax or grease in the hole, the CA will not penetrate or stick to the wood.
Interesting using the wood screws looks great!
Big Merry Christmas Rob 🎄
Thanks Brody. Hope you are having a nice Christmas too mate!
I like the idea of hardening threads with superglue. And lubrication (I use candlewax with woodscrews). You're correct about some timbers oxidising steel. Oak is particularly bad, but rarely used in guitars. Any time I work with oak I always clean off my tools thoroughly afterwards, having once come to a mortiser that someone had left for a few weeks, destroying both the bit and the square chisel. Regarding inserts: I much prefer them over woodscrews, as the neck join can be made really tight, and the thread isn't going to strip. I do tend to bend my Tele neck though, so the joint really does need to be tight.
Oh yeah, I didn't think about oak. Yes it has high tannin content. I think that is part of the reason it is used for wine barrels. So my light/dark timber theory is a bit out. Maybe still a "rule of thumb"... At Maton, the MS500 guitars had inserts that were installed on the top side of the neck heel before the fretboard was glued on. It was all cnc machined of course so everything lined up well, and the metal inserts were machined by a local company. They were two metal bars with two threaded holes each. Seemed a nice way to do it.
@@RobMods Thank you. I didn't know about the Maton design. If you're fitting a separate fretboard, that makes sense. Even without CNC it could be achieved with accurate jigs and tee-nuts.
I melt a little bit of candle wax or paraffin onto the threads (do it on bridge, pick guard, tuner screws going into the wood too), makes them go in and out without stripping the thread way better.
Yes candle wax is a traditional way to lubricate timber drawers etc as well. I often use Goss Dri-Lube on various guitar parts. It is softer than wax and very useful.
In the late 1980's I was selling high end stereo equipment, and in setting up a Linn Sondek turntable, the procedure for attaching the Medite (ultrafine particle board) tonearm mounting-board was similar: CA glue into the armboard mounting holes, and the board was attached to the turntable with very small screws similar to what you'd use for mounting tuning gears. (Medite has no grain, so without the CA glue the tgreads would be weak). PS, CA has an accelerated curing time in contact with wood or cellulose.
I've been doing it for years. I've used it on jigs and tooling and all sorts of wooden stuff. It wasn't my idea though. I picked it up from somewhere...
hey rob! your videos have taught me so much. you talk about things in a very pragmatic way that's easy to learn. thanks 💜
Thanks for your kind words. I really appreciate it. I'm glad you like my channel.
The trick I do when installing the neck screws is to initially screw the screw backwards and you will feel the screw pop into the thread, then screw the screw in normally. I also reinforce the threads with thin CA