What Leo Fender Got Wrong? Or... How To Install Threaded Inserts.
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- These videos where I modify a Fender neck or body are always popular. I also like to poke the bear by insinuating that Leo Fender might have gotten something wrong in the title. Y'all can relax... we love Fenders as much as the next guy.
Anyway, in this video we show y'all the correct way to retrofit a standard Fender neck with steel threaded inserts. Turning your screw-in neck into a bolt-on neck.
E-Z LOC inserts... www.ezlok.com/
For everyone who is still hunkered down in the house or just looking for a little bit of infotainment we are doing a lot of extended videos so you can zone out a little bit.
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As a furniture maker, I've done my fair share of wood inserts in hard, curly maple.... Tapping the hole is something I Never thought of. It's brilliant. Curly hardwoods are notoriously brittle and easy to split. Even when you've used the correct sized drill bits.
The content you are putting out is incredible. Got to be one of the most informative guitar builds.
Thanks Crooks
Hi Matt, Took your advice on the inserts from your older video. I followed you exactly. I have put them in several necks. Works like a charm every time. I'll never go back to screws. Great work and thanks again.
Glad you had good luck with those inserts man, they won't let you down. Thanks for watching, again
GREAT tips here! Good call on the clamp, as well as the ez locks... The tread is much better suited for maple than the brass ones at the store that have a flat thread on them.
Hands down best video on neck inserts!
My good Sir... You've gained another subscriber!
Thank you Matt for sharing your valuable experiences and your awesome channel. Texas is so proud to have you. I certainly salute you and tip my hat for you sir. Best regards from England.
Thanks for all of the pointers. My grandson and I are in the process of building a modified Stratocaster, a first for both of us. Yesterday he was asking if I knew of a way to do away with the screws that held the neck we are using onto the body, now I do. McGuckins is not far and if they don't have it you probably don't need it anyway.
Matt I have used threaded inserts for a lot of furniture I have built. 1st off You showed me these EZ lok inserts Awesome***** Now you taught me to tap the wood, I have never thought of that. So Thank you Matt You Rule******
Glad I could help Scott
Which gauge strings do you use on your furniture?😂😆🤣😁
That is a beautifully precise and easy way of doing it. I have a drill press ( or pillar drill ) as we say in the UK, and it’s a number 1 must have piece of kit to have in any workshop.
I agree my friend
Thank you for showing these guys to use the drill press. Gets it started nice and straight. You guys rock!
Thanks man, they are easy if you do it with the right tools
Omg your awesome, I saw and commented on that dude's video he insisted that the cracked neck was stronger cause he super glued it. I ended our conversation by wishing him good luck, I can't wait to see your build the neck came out sweet and the logo on it is real cool. You guys are the best cause you build like it is your own personal guitar. That dude maybe posting a fake build, maybe he could buy a professional neck from you lol
I have seen several videos, posts and even big name guitar builders doing things that I wouldn't do. It doesn't make me right or them wrong. I like the steel inserts and will continue to use them.
@@TexasToastGuitars hey I'm subscribed to a builder named johnny B guitars there a cool bass guitar build there please check out his clip he uses some well thought ideas to improve sustain and grounding, although some of it maybe overkill it really performed In the demo.
Excellent instructional video. Thanks for posting. I've fitted steel inserts to my telecasters, as I sometimes bend the necks and don't want them to come off (...again). In my opinion, inserts with machine screws definitely improve tone and feel. Much better than woodscrews.
I like them too
Great video man. Yup, you did it right. Using good materials and careful drilling makes the job great quality.
Seriously, Great job, Matt. I like how much attention you pay to the details.
I appreciate that my friend
Except the little detail of the record button
@@ronaldbharvey I need a camera person
@@TexasToastGuitars And the detail of removing the red thread lock on the first hole. Haha. Just kidding. Love the channel!
Thanks Matt. I appreciate the shared expertise. "I'm not saying this is the only way... but it's the only right way!"
And not too slow right? Might as well do it right
Great technique utilizing both the jorgensen clamp and drill press. I particularly like the drill press technique to start the tap into the neck to keep it centered!
An old school machinists technique... I know because I learned it from an old school machinist HAHAHA
"Sometimes things are cool because they're cool." You have that right Brotherman!
I love that line
"Hey Man , go ahead & hit that subscribe button!! All the cool kids are doing it!!" Love it !! Awesome video , Matt !! Gotta try that technique !!
Right on Mike
Great lesson for all of us garage shop builders!
Glad you liked it my friend
Great info. I've used the stainless version in the past. Bolt/jam nut approach avoids f'n up a softer slot. Mechanical testing data on E-Z site provides enough info for confidence in holding capability.
I'm convinced
I came upon this years ago when I bought a graphite neck. You have to use inserts and bolts to attach those type necks. So, I thought, I wonder if using these in a wood neck would make a difference. I found, in my opinion, it did. Better sustain and tone. It only makes sense. The tighter you can attach the neck and body, the better the vibration transfer. I've been using inserts ever since. Thanks for the video, rock on Texas toast!!!!
Thanks brotherman, we like the inserts and are happy to use them if people want. Having said that, we actually don't do it very often
Nice work. I can definitely see the advantage of the drill press and tap. Although I was a bit concerned until you glued them in. I have used those before (but not the steel ones). They often tended to pull out or unthread themselves after repeated removal of the neck.
Glue is the hot set up
So this is what a serious guitar video looks like from Texas Toast.
We have lots of videos
Thanks Matt, that is very kewl and you made it look easy...I'm gonna try it.
It is easy
Hey great video and I've installed nut inserts just the way you have just shown. A drill press is awesome for control. A lot of really good information. Thanks
Thanks Donald
Great video! Very simple and effective.
Thank you Steve
Pretty cool trick Matt! Love the videos.....
Glad you like them Daniel, thanks for watching
Awezome video Mat! Perfect example of basic machining skills with great explanation, Chris evidently didn't put the tap handle back up! LOL
Great job Matt, very clean and precise installation. I did see a “recent” installment of another builder, not naming names, and was a bit surprised that Brad did NOT use a drill press. 😉
There were a few people who have had some trouble with inserts lately. This method isn't a guarantee but we have had great success with it
I have a 23 year old Warmoth neck. I've taken it on and off so many times that every time I put it back on now, I have to fill one or two of the holes with toothpicks shaved a little. The first strat was made in the 50's. Seems a little primitive to use woodscrews to hold a neck on by the wood of it. This is a much better solution.
This is PERFECT ! I just got 2 bodies and one neck ...still deciding what the other neck will be . I always thought there should be a better way
Hope you like it Gil
I can't help thinkin that this was directed towards Brad Angove. I still love Brad's guitar work.
We love Brad
That my friend is a real bolt on neck. Well done.
I've got these in the necks of both of my main basses, and swear by them. The necks feel absolutely solid with neck inserts.
They won't let you down, right Eddie
@@TexasToastGuitars Indeed, and my basses also have bucketloads of sustain using neck inserts. They just pull the neck in so much tighter to the body.
Seems like I remember seeing a video recently, where someone had a little difficulty with those inserts.😂👍😎🎸🎶
You may have
Haha thx Brad for the entertaining how to video!
I also see you used a Brad point bit lol
@@xklopan 😂
But he had nice hair
OOOOHH! Harsh Toke! I WONDER who you were referring to? Gunsmith's Metric Wrench, love it! In the UK it's called a "Spanner". This technique is impressive, even the second time around! I like this idea for screwing legs into my C-19 Lap Steel (I'd have to come up with a washer of proper size, of coarse) (Ttt...Ggg...Ggg...Bbb...Ooo 2020 RAWKS!)
Great video. I'm looking into this because I am having to travel a lot and have found it very convenient to remove the neck from my strat and put it in a suitcase. I figure I'm only gonna get away with that so many times with the stock wood screws. Thanks.
The treaded inserts are super cool, give them a try
Why not just get a damned flight case and do away with the hassle of dissasembly & reassembly?
I'm doing this on my tele and strat because if a neck that isn't tightened rock solid will experience small fluctuations in tuning.....and of course, torquing wood screws super hard is always risky, even in rock maple. I don't want to have to worry about it. This way I can torque the hell out of the screws, likely get better neck pocket contact (maybe a little more sustain?) and not experience any micro fluctuations in tuning while rocking out. Thanks for the video!
These Ezloks look cool. I'll try to get them when I'll be doing my neck
They won't let you down
LOVE the clamp lying on its side. Much easier than making a jig to match the fretboard radius.
Like someone who split the wood in the heel of the neck by forcing the insert, then tried to fix it with super glue????? You certainly made it look easy, good job!!🙂😉
Oh, I don't know
Great tip again Matt..
Thanks John 👍
Finally, somebody using inserts the right way. And using a drill press to tap the holes. Very cool. Hey, Matt, I couldn't find the precision metric gun smith wrench in the links below. I think you ought to send one of those to Brad...I don't think they have those in Canada.
Correct me if I'm wrong but in Canada that would be called a gunsmith's SAE tool kit
I am definitely going to give this a go. Makes perfect sense
Great video & yes you dont want to miss drill something on a neck or else it might end up ruining the neck from usability. Cant repair a neck screw up as easy as a body screw up.
You can do it man
1:05 - most articulate commentary ever in a YT video. Perfectly makes the case.
I have never been accused of being articulate before.
Sorry - didn’t mean to offend....
Brad great videos. Thanks. I don't know if in the past you've talked about using wood augers as opposed to drill bits but it might be informative to the folks who follow along with you. It will help some folks do better wood working.
Brad?? His name his Matt. The guy who paints is Clint, or Curt, or Chad.
Great idea, whoever Brad is
@@TexasToastGuitars Sorry Mat just started watching the videos. I'll pay closer attention from here on in.
I like this method, even though I have no problem with the correct wood screws into the correct size hole. My explanation of all this...The ones intended for chip board assume the chipboard will compress a lot, so if you drill your pilot hole in maple and screw those in the maple won’t compress much and the neck can crack. The steel insert has smaller threads that will crush the maple and not crack the neck, and glueing them keeps them even more solid.
I love those EZ's in super hard exotic woods (cumaru, Ipe) for when I'm making furniture. I use one drop of two-part epoxy on the threads though.
That works too
Nice explanation and tutorial!
Glad you liked it brotherman
Wow, I'm surprised how many people in the comments dont see the point in this.
I think a mod like this should come on all expensive bolt on guitars.
Great idea guys
It is pretty neat
Smart! This is great! Thanks Matt!
Glad you liked it Jim
I’m glad i came accros your video ;)
Me too
Great job WonderBread!
Thank you! Cheers!
I feel like I have seen this somewhere before but this time I didn't cringe as the inserts were going in. Nice work Matt. 👍 😎
Cool, thanks brotherman
That’s a great looking shirt at the end of the video. ;)
My shirt?
My homeboy got that for me
Happy Birthday!!!
Thanks but my birthday isn't until November
I was texting another friend while watching you. Big fan!
@@charliecalderin9533 HAHAHA thanks man
Yes. Thank you. I recently felt the pain of watching someone fumble around, trying to install inserts.
You're welcome!
I like the idea of using the tap, never saw that done before. I did see one person use a counter sink bit and that way it was cleaner and easier to but the insert just below th surface.
Give it a try Scott, you might really dig it
This seems like it will make it a lot easier to take the neck off if you need to in the future. Don't know if other builders do this, but Hamer used to use inserts for direct mount pickups rather than just screwing into the wood. It's really nice if you're one of those rare guitar players that may change out pickups. ;)
It is a pretty neat feature even if all it does is allow you to remove things easily
I’m a machinist by trade (amongst welding and electrical ) I’ve used the drill press the way you do many times to tap holes .
Old school, right
Thanks for the great tips on how to do this correctly! Sure seems to work much better than the tapered inserts some have used in other recent videos. Do you think BA could do this?
I know BA could do it... whoever that is
Thanks I will try this on build I am currently doing. 😀
Hope you enjoy it!
it's totally easy
Love your videos ! You’re so cool ;)
Glad you like them David but I'm totally not cool :)
Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet, but this is a great way to permanently repair stripped neck "bolt" holes.
Good point, it would work great for that
Great video, thanks buddy!!!
Thanks for watching you are certainly welcome my friend
A good idea for heel adjust truss rod necks.
Yes, you got that right
I like the tap idea a lot. I use a cap head bolt threaded into the insert and drive them in with an Allen wrench. I don't like buggering up the insert with the screw driver. I also clamp the neck edges to keep any install force from the insert from cracking the neck. But I will tap the next one cause that was way cool. I also typically run them in dry and then wick CA into the joint. Works great and no fiddly glue mess while installing.
Lots of good ways to do this job
CA?
thin super glue@@MrJohnnyDistortion
@@jonahguitarguy
There's thin & fat super gloo?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion yep, out Stewart McDonald
I'm wanting to do this same concept with the pickup screws on my Gibson LP Jr. I found stainless threaded inserts and the matching screws I would like to use. Is the whole idea the same as what you did here? I'm going to use a 4-40 thread pattern also
Matt just wondering if you could follow this up with putting ferrule in the body to mate with the neck with the threaded inserts. Thanks
Sure man, let me work on it
Leo really didn't get it wrong. He just didnt take it to the next obvious level.😃
You should also mention using a "Bottom Tap" and not a regular type tap... Just my 2 cents. Dig your Channel by the way!
Agreed. Shallow holes with a threaded insert would benefit from a Bottom Tap
That is a good tip
@@Bdegan68 im not familiar with a bottom tap? Can you exaggerate on what is a bottom tap? 👋
@@Vern859 Bottom taps are flat on the end unlike a regular tap which has a point, or tapered end.
@@robdefrancesco8928 so what is the advantages in using that kind of tap?
Nice vid... thx a bunch! Referring to the title, I'd like to add my "2 cents":
Although bolts and threaded inserts are without any doubt far superior to wood screws, one has to consider that in case of a neck *replacement* , these inserts have to be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the body. If they're not, you have a problem.
This might be achievable with today's CNC technology, but was next to impossible in the late 1940s. As the idea behind the "bolt on" neck was easy replacement in case of neck damage or worn frets, and virtually *anyone* can drill wood screw holes into the neck (using the body holes as a guide), wood srews are still the industry standard... even 70+ years later.
That being said, I don't think that Leo's got it *that* wrong... ;-)
We usually make the hole sin the body slightly oversized to compensate
Would not have a bolt on neck without inserts and bolts....Thank you for the lesson
No problem 👍
Nice work! Those machine threaded inserts are much better than aluminum. No wear out or risk of loosening over time, plus, they’re impossible to strip.
You would have to really work at it that's for sure Tom
Texas Toast Guitars You know, some people I’ve seen turn bolts with a shitload of torque. Overkill.
I’ve used this method for around 40 years, and my only critique is to suggest drilling each hole in two stages, paying attention to the exact depth of each stage. First, drill and tap the large-diameter hole Only to the minimum depth needed to allow the insert to go fully flush with the surface (it should ‘bottom out’ at that depth), when you finally install it. Next, measure the depth and diameter needed to create a concentric ‘well’ for the machine-screw to extend into, below the land for the insert. Only after these two stages are correct, it’s time to glue and install the insert. I always coat both the insert’s threads and the threads in the wood, since the act of screwing the insert in, tends to displace the liquid glue.
what kind of glue? Is super glue ok?
Excellent, referring to an adjustable spanner as a metric toolkit. Gonna remember that :)
Gunsmith's Metric Tool Kit
Take this Brad! 😜
Did you see Mr. Crimson? Ben is doing Zen.... 😏
I guess we'll have a hippy guitar with purple pebbles glued on 😈.
Nah, Ben is a too nice to be trash talked. He has that metric education, that calm behaviour, I just can't.
I haven't seen that one yet, I'll go check it out
Hey Matt, I have a "Spirit" 6 string by Steinberger that had a wooden neck. I purchased one of the Steinberger necks that's made out of graphite something or other to replace the old neck. Its a bolt on. Would wood glue work on a neck like that? Great video and I remember the original "what Leo Fender got wrong" video. Always great to hear what yer thinking. Later.
Thanks for this.
Hey whats with the Mockingbird template in the background at 6:38??? Making some BCs??
I had to make one for a customer, there is a video for those templates, not all the great
Do you counter sink the Ferules in to the back of the neck also? I think Ibanez does that and that will give more room without a neck plate. What do you think????
Bradley P
Totally, that is the hot set-up
I'm tempted to do this to the Warlock I'm restomodding - but I had to shim the neck with (roughly) a 1º timber shim (like the StewMac ones, but I made it myself so it's not exactly 1º). I figure now the neck sits at an angle to the pocket, this won't work unless I drill the holes for the inserts at an equal angle?
you can do it
Cool. I’ve never had much luck with the brass inserts with the exaggerated wood thread on the outside. I’m not sure there’s much of an advantage especially when the truss rod adjustment is at the headstock so the neck pretty much goes on and stays on but I also don’t argue about guitar voodoo with people either. 😄
Oh man, there is so much disinformation out there.
What does head stock truss adjustment have to do with increased neck pocket stability?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion I meant that I don’t see a huge advantage to machine screws if the neck is staying on the body. If it has a heel adjustment the neck would be removed when the rod needs to be adjusted which could be regularly and inserts and machine screws might make more sense.
using the tap to start the insert in the right direction is a great idea..thanks!.usually i just put the insert in mounted on a bolt that follows a predrilled guide hole..and with the insert upside down so that the groove that people think is for a screwdriver can cut the thread..much in the same way as a tap...if course it is a bit difficult to remove if you have to..but if you do it right then there should be no reason to remove the insert..and if you do it wrong..well, then the threads are probably twisted anyway and you will need to plug and redrill..
Old school machinist trick
I did exactly the same on a Squier Mascis Jazzmaster, I started the thread for a couple turns with a tap then drove the insert in slot side first to act as a tap but with zero slop in the neck, superb result. Will be doing same again to a MIJ Jazzmaster this week.
Has to be said, that i tried this on a parts strat, using stainless steel bolts and inserts. Don't have a drill press, and did it by hand, and it worked like a charm. Just did it very carefully! And yes, i would definitely recommend steel inserts, although my neck is mahogany, so a little more forgiving than rock maple.
I did this because as I was putting the guitar together I would be detaching and re-attaching the neck, more than once. And I have had a woodscrew in a neck strip the wood slightly, and causing it to be impossible to tighten. Belts and Braces, and all that!
PS if you are watching in the UK, i bought my inserts from here... www.insertsdirect.com/acatalog/headed-stainless-woodfit-insert.html
You can do it brotherman
I just realized that I get the same Zen-like feeling watching these videos as I do watching Bob Ross videos.
...these are louder.
...but still.
ravenslaves
Can’t wait to see a “Liquid HHHWhite” strat , with “Happy little accident “ pickups-
It’d make my day 🎸 🎨
HAHAHA nice, I like your style
i know for a fact it makes a sonic difference and it changed the feel of the guitar, all for the good. It was amazing. Highly recommend.
See... Noel gets it
@@TexasToastGuitars So glad I found your page. About 10 years ago a buddy and me spent way to much time playing guitar and hanging out in his machine shop, it was basically his man cave but a very well equipped and fun cave. He was a master machinist and a novice guitar player and I spent time teaching and jamming there and he progressed. Blah blah, anyway, we kicked around a lot of ideas and one was to do what your video explains. We used his deluxe strat for a test subject and the difference was mind blowing, everything got better. He used the type of inserts you recommend. How ever we lost touch and iv been wanting to do this ever since to my guitars. Thanks so much for the reply and the video, all the best.
Wow, timing is everything. I was just planning to do this on a couple partscasters I am working on and after watching way too many other videos you nailed it. The tap idea makes so much sense. Thanks for guiding me in a better direction. I bought both steel and brass inserts and was waiting on some insight why the brass won't work. Can you share your thoughts?
I'm sure brass will work, what would you rather have if you were paying for the guitar?
I think brass is cooler, vibe-wise. Is there any advantage to steel? Also, I think there is an advantage to inserts in general: the neck can be removed and put back on with less risk the threads stripping.
well, if they're standard threads, the brass would probably be fine.
A lot of the brass ones are a sharp thin thread that's made for cutting into cheap softwood and mdf and stuff. Chances are that type are not going to go into maple without problems.
The brass ones could split your neck because they are not equal to any machine screw(no tap available)
Well that’s 12 minutes of my life that I’ll never get back. Real test for success is actually mounting the neck to the body but Mr. Awesome couldn’t be bothered to do that.
Just imagine what you could do if you had that 12 minutes back. I'm sure it would have been terrific.
Is it possible to get suggested part numbers for the tools and inserts?
Was wondering what type of machine screws you use. Being carbon steel, can I use stainless screws with no problem, or do they have to be zinc coated. just wondering what screws you recommend.
Thanks for another great video, Matt. I was thinking about using threaded inserts on my next project - a Crimson Tele kit. Have you ever used their stainless steel inserts, as opposed to the black ones? The inside and outside threads are the same, and there's no thread locker on them. Any difference in performance?
I have not but I'm sure they would work great
Leo Fender is my spirit animal, gotta go byyyeeeee!
HAHAHA that is awesome
I can definitely see the advantage if you need to take the neck off for truss rod adjustments at the heel every now and then
"In the past... week"
You're evil. 😁
Totally
Evil laff- Muah ha ha!
You came up on my point before I got to it but. Had a problem with a screw that kept backing itself out on an older Harley. Couldn't find my locks tite so I coated the screw with a light amount of wood glue and it did not back out again until I had to pull the seat off.
Wood glue really sticks to metal quite well
Nice!! Cheers.
Where are you getting your inserts? Can’t find em anywhere since my supplier passed away. Best thing ever.
Have you tried the link that I provided
Texas Toast Guitars I suppose I would have if I had looked. It’s early here, man. No coffee yet.
Id like to know, why did you choose or prefer the metal threaded type of insert ofer the wood threaded type?
So the EZ Locks are 5/16"? What is the size of the bolt you're using? I get that the tap is 3/8"-16. Thanks!