Installing Threaded Inserts in Wood Without Special Tools | Quick Tips
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- čas přidán 6. 03. 2018
- Normally, threaded inserts are installed using a special tool created by the manufacturer. But what if you don't have this special tool? Well don't despair, we have you covered. In this video we'll show you a way to install threaded inserts without a tool in wood. All you need is a bolt.
To be clear, using the tool specifically designed for installing the threaded inserts you have is the best and easiest way to install them. But in a pinch, this is a viable alternative for most installations in wood.
This trick only works for threaded inserts designed for wood applications. We do not advise trying this with threaded inserts for metal applications.
You can get your own Threaded Inserts for wood here: www.albanycountyfasteners.com...
For all your other fastener needs, please visit us: www.albanycountyfasteners.com
For more Fasteners 101 information, please visit our website here: www.albanycountyfasteners.com...
I watched this video about a week ago and gave it a try. I was going into pine. I didn't use enough downward force on the first one and it splintered the hole. On the second one, I used more force and got it to go in just fine. The problem was getting the bolt back out of the insert without bringing the insert with it.
After a few days to think it over, I decided to use the "jam nut" idea (I hadn't read any of the comments after the first time I watched this video). I added two nuts to the bolt, making sure to leave enough thread between the head of the bolt and the first nut. Tighten the two nuts together and then screw on the insert up to the nuts. After successfully getting the insert where I wanted it, I used two wrenches to "unlock" the two nuts from each other and then from the insert. After that, the bolt comes out as easily as it went in.
The force needed to get the insert in, especially in the pine without splintering the hole, tightens the bolt to the insert. Without a washer or the jam nuts, it is a frustrating process.
Use epoxy like a normal person👍🏼
Taper the hole before installing
Put a washer under the bolt and you'll know it's flush, and you can put more downward pressure on it for harder material.
Thank you for your feedback!
Or use a shorter hex bolt that isn't longer than the insert.
@@peteco7417 you want the bottom surface of the washer to lay flat against the wood's surface to ensure that the insert is neither too deep nor proud.
Very helpful. Thank you
Excellent video. It's pretty easy...thanks.
- Thanx 4 the info & demo. Using these inserts are made out to be so super hard that I've been discouraged to try. Thanx again 4 sharing clear, concise instructions.
Glad we could help! Thank you for your feedback.
I used to install these quite often, it is easier to put a nut on the bolt and then when you back it out put a spanner on the nut. This way when you crack it off the nut holds the insert in position and stops it lifting.
A good idea! Thank you for your feedback.
When I tried that, I could not get the bolt back out!
Use a washer with the bolt.
very helpful,, thank you .
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
much appreciated for the video.
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks, Very Nice /Especially helpful when installing Sub woofers.
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for posting this informative video. thumbs up !
Thank you for your feedback.
thank you
lOVE IT
This seems like a more controlled way to drive in an insert. 👍
Thanks for sharing pal.
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners HAve you seen the new (to me!) combination drill/tap bit? I was thinking i could stick one of those in a drill press, i have nor everse gear so would go straight through then just loosen the bit to drop out the bottom, no hand-tapping required?
Tysm.
Thanks! Saved me from buying unnecessary bits!
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
So I am building a bookshelf that can come apart if I move. It will be mostly built of pine 2x2s. What is the best way to place threaded inserts into the ends?
Saves me from buying the insert bit. Good stuff - thanks!
You're welcome! Thank you for the feedback!
I want to bolt my personal safe to the wooden floor inside of my wardrobe closet. Would these Threaded fasteners have to be installed into the floor's joist or can they just fit tightly anywhere on the floor and stay tight so that the safe can't be pulled straight out of the floor?
for me this video and comments left me wanting. one of the most important things i needed was what size hole to drill in the wood. i realize the hole should probably be maybe a 1/6 size smaller than the diameter of the threads but that is just like a common sense guess. i would like to know the facts and i believe your video would have been more complete if you had shown this. I also wondered if you were going to be able to extract the bolt without the insert, you made it look simple but I don't know if you edited until it worked. comments show that it didn't work your way for other people. the washer seems to make sence but i still wonder why it worked for you and not others. for anyone in the same thought process as me. I will admit i'm thinking this guy probably did it just as simple as shown, perhaps the type of wood or the size of the hole makes the difference, or maybe a little glue in the hole helps. so i will now visit other videos to see if anyone makes it clear as to what size hole is needed for a particular size insert.
Yea this video didn’t really explain anything. Where’s the hole diameter bit?! Everyone says NOT to use a bolt LONGER than the insert. This video makes no sense. The guy sounds sad too.
Does this one comes with M 2.5 size ??
I did the exact same thing with a hemiciol on a strip BMW 740il bonnet hinge hole. I die tap it, put the hemicoil on the bolt and rachet it all the way in, and it worked.
Good to hear! Thank you for your feedback!
I got question, are those insert coarse thread or fine thread? My bolt are coarse thread if the inset are fine thread i don't think my bolt gonna fit.
I will installing a 1/4 x 20 insert in phenolic. What size tap should I use to match the outside thread of the insert?
We would recommend plastic inserts for working with phenolic, such as press-in inserts. These kinds of inserts don't have external threading, but rather a type of knurled surface that grips the phenolic or plastic. You won't need to tap the holes for these, you just need to pre-drill. For 1/4"-20, you would probably need a 5/16" bit, but be sure to check with the manufacturer of the inserts first to confirm that.
What can you do if the hole in the wood has gotten too large if you want to keep the same screw insert??
I tried wood glue and sawdust mixture, but it didn’t work. I’ll try epoxy next.
Fill the hole with a dowel and glue and then re-drill.
The problem I have with this method is that if you're inserting into hardwood, it requires significant force and you have to press against the insert to prevent it from stripping the wood threads it creates. This ratchet method prevents adequate pressure against the insert. Further, often times the threads will lock together due to over-tightening, and you can't back the bolt out without also loosening the insert.
You really do need an installation tool if you want to install these into hardwoods without headache.
But really, they are just crappy compared to the threaded inserts with built in hex slot so you can use an allen wrench.
Thank you for your feedback!
Put a washer under the bolt and your socket will push on that.
Mine that I salvaged from a piece of flat pack furniture happened to have the built-in hex socket, so that was a definite timesaver.
Thanks for the tips.
I have a question, since i order these online and can't measure things myself,
i need some clarification if you could please help me with that.
I am making a marking gauge that would need to have a hole, with a brass insert in it, and then a bolt will go into that insert.
My question is this:
If i order what is classed as "M10" brass insert,
What does that mean? (i get it that it is 10mm)
but what is 10mm here?
The bolt size the insert accepts?
The insert diameter itself without the threads? (that is - the actual hole size i need to drill to install the insert?, if so, what bolt size it would accept??)
The insert diameter with the threads? (in which case, what diameter hole i need to drill??)
So in short:
Given an "M10 brass insert",
What hole diameter should i drill into the wood to install this insert?
What bold diameter this insert accepts?
Thank you in advance
All Thread Inserts are measured by their internal thread, or the bolt size they accept, as far as the name goes. So an M10 insert would accept M10 bolts.
The hole size will vary depending on the manufacturer and type of insert. For example, an M8 in the style shown in the video (EZ Lok Brand) needs a 1/2" hole, but that may not be true of other manufacturers.
For precise hole size, we would advise consulting a size chart for the inserts you're looking for. We have a few charts on our site for the brass inserts. Unfortunately, EZ Lok does not make an M10 in this style.
The problem I often have with these inserts is that they end up slightly crooked, and then in bolts don't want to screw into them. I need a solution for that issue.....
Use a tap wrench or a bolt & center drill a corresponding dimple on the bolt head along with an adjustable spring tensioned tap guide like this one on Amazon for $9.99 & free S&H as of March 1st, 2020 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082D6NRP8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A2W5V7MRNJJ16C&psc=1
Hold whatever you're installing the inserts into a vise bolted down on a drill press. Watch the following CZcams video & you'll see exactly how it's done.
czcams.com/video/Ay8yE5wEuww/video.html
You'll probably have to modify the procedure & tools used to what you have or can get to get the job done correctly. Hope this helps.
I like the ratchet method, but the problem is that sometimes the bolt seals to the bushing. When you try to back the bolt out, the bushing comes with it (and then has to be taken off the bolt with 90 degree angle pliers). I didn't know there's a special driver for inserts. That's helpful.
Thank you for your feedback!
I've had that too, and what sometimes works is using a little oil on the threads and a washer or two might help prevent the bushing getting stuck to the bolt. Sometimes a little epoxy on the outside of the bushing can help, as well.
Good idea. Thank you. @@Clyde_Lewis
Do you ever suggest putting a construction adhesive on the threads prior to screwing it in for extra strength for the insert?
Hi Paul,
We feel that threadlocker solution or adhesive is a good addition to threaded insert installations. It is common on some kinds to actually see a patch of one kind or another (nylon or other locker) to assist in the hold of the insert.
We recommend using one especially if the insert will be subject to vibration or constant fastening and loosening to assist in a strong consistent hold. Just make sure that the adhesive you use is rated for the material you are using it in.
Albany County Fasteners Thanks so much for the reply.
I appreciate your professional opinions!
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners would simple wood cold glue not work? I used it on a door where the screws holding the handle kept on pulling out, wood glue has kept all the screws fastened.
@@Visionery1wood glue works on wood, but not the screws since they’re metal.
While I was putting together a wood cabinet the inserts fell out out the holes and now I guess the holes are too big for the inserts to go back in. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix that?
@@benisrood Thanks for the feedback! I did in fact use woodglue to put the inserts back in and it turned out fine. Turns out I was just screwing the screws in too hard lol. Well that and the cabinet was very cheaply made imo. 😅
The problem I'm facing is ensuring that the insert goes in at 90 degrees to the wood. I'm not sure how this method fully addresses that.
I want to use 8mm diameter bolts. What size insert nut should I buy? Also I don't have any drill bit for drilling more than 8mm diameter hole. What size spade drill bit should I buy?
Insert nuts are typically sized based on the internal thread size. So if you're looking for a thread insert for 8mm bolts, then you'll need to look for a 8mm (M8) thread insert. As for a compatible spade bit, you'll want a 1/2" bit. You can find both here: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Brass-Thread-Inserts-for-Wood-400-M8-p/117036.htm
Excellent!
Many thanks!
Can you comment on the holding power of an insert into hardwood? I would like to use them on the bottom of teak handrails that are going on a sailboat restoration project. I don't want anyone to grab a handrail while falling and have the insert pull out of the wood. Maybe a bit of West Systems epoxy to help hold them in? Of course, these may not be suitable for the project I am working on. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
How did it go pal? I’ve just replaced some old cracked inserts in a solid oak bed, so far so good
JB weld. True champ!
I'm wanting to install these in the base of a speaker enclosure made of MDF. Would the same style insert in the video work for this?
I want to mount the speaker on a speaker stand.
These inserts are better suited for harder wood. MDF is considered a softer wood-like material. For that purpose, we would recommend using these styles of inserts: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/hex-drive-inserts-e-z-hex/HexDriveInserts.htm
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Great, thanks for the reply. I'm glad I asked. I think the flange style would look nice.
This method often gives me problems, as when I go to back out the bolt, the threaded insert comes out with it. I've found a little bit longer bolt with a pair of nuts (jam nut style) by the threaded insert helps. Screw in the insert, then one by one back off of the jam nuts and finally the bolt.
Good advice! Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks Tom, your comment is exactly what I needed. I was having the same problem trying to back the bolt out (it brought the insert with it). After trying your suggestion, it worked perfectly!
if the pre drilled hole is smaller than the threads of the insert it will be jammed into the wood for a more solid seat and wont back out with the bolt.
exactly
or why wouldn't he just use a fucking hex key.... He might just see that it fits and drives the piece of hardware perfectly..... Almost like it was manufaCTURED TO DO SO....
Is there a trick for removing an insert nut with out damaging it or the wood?
The simplest, and easiest, way to remove these inserts is to use the standard installation tool for them that is designed to fit those cuts in the top of the insert: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/E-Z-Lok-Drive-Tool-p/11840000.htm
Note that these are for E-Z Lok brand inserts (shown in the video). There are other specially designed tools for removing threaded inserts specifically but we can't attest to how effective those are on these inserts.
How well do these work into plywood?
These brass inserts should work just fine in plywood, so long as the plywood is thick enough to accommodate the insert. For plywood, you will want to be sure to pre-drill first before installing the brass insert.
What's size hole would I pre drill into my ply, say if the insert nut was an M6.
Thank you!
Can you wood glue the insert in so it never comes out, or would wood glue not wokrk?
Wood glue does not bond well to metals. If you really want to use something to bond the insert to the wood, we would recommend something like Gorilla Glue (such as this: amzn.to/2OILL3H).
I always use epoxy on the outer threads of the insert, works great, and if any gets on the inner threads, you can use a matching tap to clean that up.
Will those work with Plywood?
These brass inserts should work just fine in plywood, so long as the plywood is thick enough to accommodate the insert. For plywood, you will want to be sure to pre-drill first before installing the brass insert.
If I have a screw instead of a bolt, then can I just use a driver drill to install a threaded insert ?
Yes, provided the screw in question has machine threading and the hole was predrilled.
And the piece you Hammerd of is still behind the Coil?? How is it possible to get the piece out?
Coil? These are knife thread inserts for wood not Helicoil or Helical inserts. There is no tang to break off.
Use a flat washer under the bolt and stop when flush.
A good idea! Thank you for your feedback.
Hi, Can the inserts themselves be removed? I can't seem to find an answer anywhere so would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
They are not intended to be removed, no.
What tape of drill bit used
We used Brad Point drill bits to make the holes for the inserts.
Doesn't this weaken the wood fibers, resulting in a weaker fitting?
Why don't you guys offer Jack nuts? aka Rivet nuts?
Great video, however, First after drilling correct size hole, add liquid nails before adding the insert. ALWAYS use a washer or nut on the drive bolt, screw on the insert. Onced flushed with the surface, hold the nut with pliers or wrench as you remove the bolt. This setup with last the life of the wood you're working on.
The size of the insert ?
That's going to depend on your application and he size you need. You can refer to our chart here for a list of sizes that we currently have available: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/brass-thread-inserts-wood-s/925.htm
how will i do this if this is not wood but PVC plastic sheet.
i need to install a Tripod Thread Adapter screw witch is a Threaded Inserts that has a out side thread of 3/8" and inside threads of 1/4".
do i need to drill a hole first, or do i need to drill a hole then make threads in the inside of the PVC Sheet?
because i need it to stay in tight and not get loos or pop out.
this is the link to the Tripod Thread Adapter screw www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVDYS7W/?coliid=I1BQIUWJHHMTOF&colid=232RTO4KLDAE2&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
and this to the PVC sheet www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ILHVW6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I'm going to glue together 4 sheets of 1/2 size to make 2 inch thick pieces thanks if u can help
You will need plastic inserts for this application. Specifically, Inserts for Thermoplastics (which is what PVC is classified as). At this time, we do not have these inserts available.
Doesn't look like that insert goes in very straight.
would it damage thread if you use a flat head?
No. The end that takes the screw has a conical design to accept countersunk heads for more flush applications. The only time it might be a problem is if the countersunk angle is irregular.
You forgot something, what size hole to drill.
The size of the hole will vary depending on the size of the insert. Please refer to our website to find the hole size you need for your wood inserts: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/brass-thread-inserts-wood-s/925.htm
Couldn't you just use a flathead screwdriver? I thought thats what the little notch thats cut out of those inserts was for. Thats how I've always done mine.
You can use a screwdriver if you're only installing a few inserts, or installing them into soft woods. But if you're installing a lot of these inserts, or you are installing into harder woods, it's much more practical to use a drive tool.
Even using brass inserts in softer woods, the 'slot' for the screwdriver can easily tear off. A bolt as shown in this video, or a longer bolt with jam nuts, should avoid that problem.
You didn’t tell how big to make the hole, do i make it as big as the ridges or the size between the ridges...sorry. My husband died and I am trying to do things my self..so i need that A,B,C. Not just the B,C of instructions.
We're sorry for your loss.
You will want to make the hole approximately as big as the ridges. Not so big that the insert freely goes though the hole however; the knife-point threads are meant to cut into the wood to secure the insert. You can find exact drill sizes on our link in the description of this video for threaded inserts.
Karen - thank you for asking this. I was wondering the same thing! It’s great that you are learning new things! Best wishes. 😊
The hole needs to be the diameter of barrel of the insert, if you can not measure the diameter or do not know the diameter of the barrel.
Hold up several drill bits with a light behind the insert. You want the drill bit to hide the barrel but still be able to see the flutes (ridges) extending beyond drill bit. I hope this helps.
But it says no tools???
We're sorry for the confusion! Normally, threaded inserts are installed with a special tool designed just for them. While it's still better to use that tool, this video shows a way to install threaded inserts without using special tools that we hope can help out in a pinch. We hope this clears up some confusion!
I think you installed that upside down.
ok but you don't tell us how big the hole needs to be
I totally wish it actually were this easy. My problem is I can't get them to go straight in. They ALWAYS go in at a slant. ALWAYS. And I have no idea how to get them to go in straight.
Sounds like dr Steve brule
👍👍👍👍👍
In my experience the manufacturer driving tool is a poor way to install. Use a hex bolt with washer as demonstrated in this video.
No tools:
Step 1:
Take your drill and
mats852 I believe what that title "no tools" is meant as "without any special tools". If you only had the basic home tools and not those specially tools that are only made for one use.
Title doesn’t say no “Tools” you tool, it says without
“A Tool” the guy made the mistake of assuming you were smart enough to read AND comprehend.
drills ain't special bro. ; )
Apply some glue
M
Make sure to wear gloves so you hurt your fragile little hands.........
Dummer geht's auch nicht!!👎👎🇩🇪