Guitar Neck Threaded Insert Install (Guitar Body/Neck Machine Screw Assembly)
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2017
- Looking to assemble a guitar body and neck using machine screws? Here's some instructions to get you going.
A list of supplies you'll need, all from www.mcmaster.com. Just type in the part numbers in the search bar on their website.
- threaded inserts (P/N 90248A018)
- bottoming tap drill (P/N 2521A642)
- stainless steel oval head screws (P/N depends on the length screw you need, I used 91802A203 [1-1/2"] and 91802A204 [1-3/4"]) !!!MAKE SURE TO VERIFY WHAT LENGTH SCREWS YOU NEED!!!
Feel free to leave any comments or questions. - Hudba
Do you think threaded inserts and machine screws help the play-ability of the guitar? Or are they just for ease of assembly?
Another nice video. Very educational for me. So thank you for posting this.
As far as threaded inserts versus regular wood screws goes, the obvious advantage is that you can easily remove and replace the neck many times without any issues, whereas with wood screws eventually you'd lose the tightness (and eventually leading to "stripped" threads) which would be harder to fix (requiring some wood work). That's the obvious one, but I think there could be more benefits than that. At the end of the day the main idea is to attach the wood of the neck as close and as tightly as possible to the wood of the body of the guitar, so that the vibrations are transmitted more easily through the neck to the body, and then out through the pickups. I would think that you could get a tighter fit using the threaded inserts. I've no idea if that is the case, but I would imagine that you would get a tighter bond that more closely resembles the glued in "set neck" that is used on some other guitars (Gibson LP for example). Of course that also depends on the hardness of the wood etc, but I can imagine that you might get some advantage using the threaded inserts.
Just my two thoughts.
ps. I would really like to see more videos like this. Explaining and showing how you built your guitar is fascinating to me.
For me it's really about the longevity of the guitar. It relieves you the fear of losing thread from screwing in and out of the neck screws. Plus i really see no downside of installing them other than the danger of ruining the neck during the installation stage. 😊
At your McMaster.com link, if you live in higher humidity areas I would recommend the corrosion resistance 18/8 stainless steel version with locative. They have a thin wall version 8/32 if you may run into a clearance issue. 5 ea. $10.25 8/32 thin wall P/N 94165A233 drill #3 1/4 28 tap or 5 ea. $11.46 8/32 thick wall P/N 90247A009 drill F 5/16 18 tap. Installation tool $9.26 P/N 94110A120. They also carry a 316 stainless steel with loctite 8/32 thick wall insert $8.50 ea.
The steel inserts are the way to go. Rinse the loctite off. it's for steel. Easier to use a bolt and a few stacked washers or nuts to drive them in, than using a screwdriver. Some have a female hex inside. Those are great. Those brass ez-lok inserts are the best way I know of to slit your neck open. Rock maple does not budge.
Don't even think about using the aluminum ones, unless you are putting them in balsa.
Turning down the speed of the drill press and a light touch will eliminate that smoke.
RoboStyle Yea it’s WAY too fast.
@@johnnypk1963 He pointed out that the bit was old and dull.
Thanks for your amazing videos, thanks man..
Just a heads up, the red loctite 204 is for metal only. I clean mine off first since I use the same ones. The ones supposedly made for hardwood that have self cutting threads are trouble.
Thanks...i make Acosta bass guitars and needed this info and found you...hope to talk
Should I loosen the Truss rod before installing those?
I don't think there's any need to
What size countersink tool is that?
I'm not 100% positive but I think its 3/8". It doesn't really matter if you use a larger countersink since you'll just be cleaning up the hole. Just be careful not to go too deep.
Wouldn't it be easier to start the threads with a standard tap and then finish with the bottoming tap?
A bottoming tap would probably be better if you have it
But reg tap is easier to start
That is the way you do it
Set of Micrometers???I don't think so. The tool is a vernier caliper.
Hey there
Isn't that thread lock for metal?
I would say yes. However, I would guess that thread lock has some effect with wood. It might not be as strong as with metal, but there should be some benefit there.
Fender sells guitars 1000 dollars and up with cheap wood screws. When they started company guitars were supposed to be affordable professional Instrument's. They need to do this at the price they sell them at.
Those inserts should have been installed as deep as possible.
Hey I can't find the parts you used in the video and you seem to explain it better than others on here. Any help is appreciated!
I just updated the description. You should have all the info you need to find the parts.
@@ManBunMetalHead very nice of you! Thanks for your time my dude
8/32 😂