Millwork Magic: How to Make Your Own Trim
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- It's possible to duplicate millwork profiles without a dedicated moulding machine. This video shows how to make a ranch style casing out of regular lumberyard 1x material with professional results by using a 'planing sled' and a bit of millwork magic.
When ripping the blanks at 13m15s, how do the boards stay so snug against the fence after they pass the blade? Never my experience without featherboards or the like.
That's the benefit of preparing the blanks so they're 'arrow straight' and flat before getting to this stage; no featherboards are necessary. I'll include one sometimes on large runs just as a matter of convenience and safety though but anytime the featherboard is used to push a bow out of a piece it's going to result in inferior finished pieces. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for the answer. Again, exceptioonal job.
I know it's kind of off topic but do anyone know a good place to watch new series online?
Wow, major flashback!
My mother had to work and so i was with a babysitter from the time i was three weeks old. My Mamau, as i called her. id play cards with her husband, an old Mexican man who had hands exactly like yours!! He was a very hard worker, just like you, and his hands showed it.
Being so young, i’d never seen fingers like his and would always stare.
He didn’t speak english and i never learned spanish, but i always saw the kindness in his eyes along with his smile under his salt and pepper handlebar mustache.
Thanks for the memory!
Hands down one of the best series on CZcams. No flash, no short-shorts, no gimmicks, nothing to distract from actually learning a new way to skin the proverbial cat. I've been doing this for over 30-years, yet I have learned much from just watching a few videos. Professionally executed. Kudos. I'm about to binge-watch everything here. Thank you for realizing that there are still a few people left in the world who can watch something longer than six-minutes without drooling on themselves and passing out. Semper Fidelis.
Nick... I'm stoked by your comments... thank you!
It's good to know my video production resonates with you since I'm constantly intimidated by other more popular, polished channels who's stuff presents much more professionally. My goal for Next Level Carpentry is to focus on content in hopes those like yourself will gravitate towards it for all the reasons you state. The next video in the production pipeline is somewhat a magnum opus that will run around 45 minutes but I guarantee will show some original material to those motivated to 'binge watch' the entire production.
Your Semper Fidelis is a noble sentiment which I strive to maintain. Truth be told Semper Gumby (Ever Flexible :-) might be a little more realistic for this 'ol carpenter!
Gene Mean ,,,,😵 what is going on in your head😬 no one wants to see Matt in daisy dukes😰
I don't understand how your views are so low compared to other "shop" channels on youtube. Your techniques and attention to detail are beyond comparison. You, sir, are a true craftsman! It's a joy to watch you work.
Hey Ed, can I hire you as a PR agent?! While I strive to produce videos that have valuable hands-on information I'm afraid that my unpolished video production skills reduce 'entertainment value' and result in lower view-count. I value comments like yours and am confident that 'buzz' from viewers like you will raise view count in time. Seems like some of the other videos on Next Level Carpentry are starting to gain momentum though so I hope you'll 'stay tuned' and share videos there with your circle of friends.
Best regards,
Matt Jackson
I spent many years as a video producer/director when it wasn't nearly so easy. You are doing fine with your production. I judge content more than entertainment.
I also have spent my life as something more than a DIY carpenter. My first job off the farm was as a carpenter. I find, after watching your work, how little I really know about the trade. I would love to have come near your level of perfection...I mean even the back of the trim was "factory"?!?!?! really sir, you embarrass me. You make me want to give my tools to someone who will use them properly. But at 73 it's time for me to let the younger guys do the jobs anyway.
Please post more. I may not use it, but I love learning. And I may find the energy for one or two more projects on our rehab house in St. Croix, USVI. Sapele is reasonable here and I have a front porch deck I'm designing. Your board straightening lessons will come in handy.
I will share...keep up the good work.
Ed
Ed, thanks for sharing your perspective... my main motivation to put effort into this CZcams thing is that I like to think that there's enough folks like yourself who can see past the production to the actual content. In a borderline arrogant way I'm often amazed at the view count/subscriber numbers of some channels with such weak content. It can be humbling to see how well some content gets produced and published though... 'they' make it look so easy. Me? I can do the actual work in no time but there's definitely a bottleneck in the video production process.
You know, we just might be able to work something out for a week of 'hands-on' carpentry lessons in, say, February, on your rehab house there in your homeland of USVI! I'll show up with my wife and tools and do any project you need done on the house. You direct and produce a video of the work... and we get a write off for a trip to escape a frigid South Dakota winter. Sounds like a win-win-win to me... what do you think? :-)
Next Level Carpentry thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience and the humble way to teach . . . Thanks again Sir
Miguel,
You are most welcome... I'll endeavor to retain your approval!
If you want to advance past your basic pocket hole joinery and DIY cabinetry, then you might want to pay close attention to a master at his craft. This would be the place to go. Best woodworker on youtube ... easily.
Thanks for watching and commenting on so many videos here at Next Level Carpentry 7700Woodworking... much appreciated. Glad you find enough value in video content here to surf around awhile!
Best, Matt
"custom means creativity"....yessir...Ya hit the nail on the head 😁😁pun intended....I learned a great deal here. Thank you for this artisan lesson.
You're welcome Ed... thought you might like this custom trim video too? czcams.com/video/86di2rV63wc/video.html
Best, Matt
I don't think it's you, I think it's that most younger people on CZcams don't have the attention span anymore to watch an entire video but thankfully I do. Definitely is "next level carpentry" so thanks, I appreciate it!
Thanks Ryan... it's a lot harder to make a short video than to leave in extra content and let it run long so I'm glad you're OK with it. It was a surprise to me to learn how much time it takes to shorten a video in post production editing... probably takes 10~15 minutes to edit out one. Best, Matt
I agree , the younger people don’t have the patience to watch stuff being made,
@@spilleradam I'm "younger"(ish) and I watched the whole thing. I've been watching 1-2 of Matt's videos per day for the past week or two. I'm learning a ton. Thanks, Matt! :)
@@brucechristensen okay that’s good, it would be better if you could find someone to teach you, it’s difficult to learn stuff just watching videos.
I can’t imagine watching his videos and NOT learning something. Amazing
Excellent. Most customers can’t see an 1/8” but you and I can. That’s why a 128th of an inch matters. Professionalism, not customer scrutiny. Stuff like that bothers us. We like it tight, we like it right, no caulking it out of sight!
So true, Daynaleo, so true... sure hate to see the 'get it close as you can and use 1/4" paint' mentality, right? Like your 'mantra'... good one! Best, Matt
A radial arm saw would have been the perfect tool for making this simple trim. Ripping, planning, routing in less passes. Nicely done with your tools. Show me a wood shop without a dust collecting apparatus and I will show you a man that loves to work with wood. Thank you.
There is definitely a difference between a woodworking shop that collect dust and a dust collection shop that does woodworking😎
I think you would be hard-pressed to get professional quality molding of this type using a radial arm saw and I'm glad I don't have to try. My first Woodshop tools was a radial arm saw but I upgraded to table saws and never regretted the move... that was the scariest saw I ever had to use!
Best, Matt
I thought next level carpentry "Ya right" Then I watched a few of your videos and I though "Oh Right" it is and he is. I would be proud to be an apprentice for you. Watching you was and will continue to make me a better craftsman and person. Thank you.
Thanks Scott... sounds like my mission for this Channel is being realized... by you at least! Thanks for commenting... Best, Matt
I’m English I like your videos, your very knowledgable about stuff, you have a great feel for the trade, when I was in America I worked with a great carpenter, he was like you, very good .
I live in a home built in 1908. All trim is oak and I have replicated some of trim and base blocks using a mounding head and a bandsaw. However, I am very impressed with your methods. I have also made rosettes from 1908 using a duplicator on a lathe. Making your own products is very rewarding. Enjoyed your video very much. Thanks for taking the time for showing us how.
Good work, Bill. I understand the satisfaction you describe having worked on historic building restoration a good deal in the past. Can't help but imagine those who made that amazing old millwork in the first place, right? Best, Matt
Wow, it's incredible the amount of precision you invested into replicating a relatively "boring" molding style. Great techniques and sequence of operations that can be applied to so many other shop tasks, well done!
That you're able to visualize what's shown in the video for use on other 'shop tasks' gives me the idea you're an intuitive guy, Dave. The ability to see a bigger picture behind a 'sequence of operations' must serve you well in life which is always rewarding to see. Thanks for watching and commenting... Best, Matt
6:13 So we're not talking about how he just free handed a perfectly straight line without a freaking straight edge huh? 😲🤯
I'm an old dog {dinosaur I sometimes think} and I as a matter of course use very similar methods to yours. I just want to say that you should feel very comfortable with the long version of expressing a procedure.
it promotes understanding, safety and did I mention understanding. Good on you Sir!
Amazing process. Not to mention the thorough video coverage while performing this project.
I totally agree with Ed. Your style is really easy going and your delivery of explaining things is low key but to the point. You give us many ways that things can be done but like you say in a pinch your style will work. I'm speaking of your video of using a regular screw, masonry bit, wire and a drill to attach a board to a masonry brick. You told us the normal way it should be done but if you don't have very many you need to fasten or you don't have regular tools then your way is good. I've learned more in 3 days watching your videos than I have in weeks of watching some of the other ones. I appreciate all of your little "tricks" you share with us. I'm in the process of making a small ramp to go on my shop. I will be able to use your way of attaching the board. I have arthritis so even one step is hard for me so I've been looking at videos on how to do that. It will be a small ramp but it will improve life for me. Thank you again sir.
Thanks mc4kvb... I doubt you'll go astray agreeing with Ed! Glad you find my 'style' beneficial... I try to emulate the mentors in my life I learned the most from and pay it forward at Next Level Carpentry.
Although it's 'off topic on this video I'll add a reminder about the 'Fasten Wood to Concrete' hack video: czcams.com/video/CSCR3dwaDTo/video.html
Pleased keep in mind that I'm using construction screws in that application because they're better than an ill-driven concrete nails and more than adequate for attaching the non-bearing tub ledger. They are BY NO MEANS as good or as strong as PROPERLY DRIVEN dedicated masonry fasteners so apply the method using discretion... even if that means getting a second opinion... to determine which method is appropriate for your specific 'small ramp' application :-)
I like all the detail and explanation of your cuts. Great video. This video will help me make my own trim.
Sweet, Craig. Using an angled 'sled' in a thickness planer will allow you all sorts of creative uses for custom trim and millwork... hope it does help you out somewhere along the way! Best, Matt
Matt, when I saw you cleaning the boards with the putty knife I realized why the blades on my DeWALT planner got chipped just days after I bought it.
Thank you very very much for including that tip. Your channel is a treasure of information to us, novice woodworkers and weekend wood warriors.
Glad to hear you saw and internalized that little tip Mucaro... many viewers/users blame the knives themselves for poor performance and suffer substandard results because of it. Check out my 'Care and Feeding of the DW735 Planer' video for another useful tip to use. You'll see how 'shifting' the knives can sometimes help extend the use and performance of knicked blades... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry, I will. Thanks, sir.
@@MucaroBoricua Cool. FYI I also did a 'deep dive maintenance' video for that machine which you might find interesting although hopefully not necessary😉😁
I enjoyed this. It gives me some ideas for making picture frame molding. Your attention to detail sets a very high standard and gives truly professional results.
Thanks Paul... BTW here's another one that might provide a bit more inspiration: czcams.com/video/ze1yyAb7rUU/video.html Best, Matt
Hi Matt. I needed to do an almost identical job last week, in my case milling ranch pattern casing that needed to be wider than the standard 2 1/4". My sequence of operations was different (almost opposite) from yours. I believe it yielded a good end product and also saved some time. First, my take is that relatively thin trim, which will ultimately take on the shape of the jamb/wall to which it is nailed, needn't be faced as true as other parts like door stiles and rails. So I began by buying 1x stock with one good face to start with. Next, I jointed one edge and then ripped a square-edged blank a bit wider than the 2 3/4" width that the final profile would require. I then set my table saw to the required bevel angle and, using a very carefully set feather board, ripped (resawed) the back side of the work pieces at the bevel angle. Finally, with the smooth factory face serving as the finished bevel face, I ripped a little from each edge with the blade set at 90 and the back side of the casing down against the table. At this point I had a clean beveled show face, a carefully resawn back face, and two sawn edges at 90 degrees to the back face. I then took an appropriate light pass off each edge on the thickness planer to reach the final, finished width. To get the appropriate round-overs, I used a tilting router base (from Woodhaven) installed in one of my router tables. So I took a different rout to arrive at a similar end, but I believe this method was quicker for me than making a sled, etc. Lots of ways to skin the same cat...
Hi Mike... you must have access to wood with a better 'factory face' than I do... they must run D pine 1x through the mill at 1,000 mph out here because their 'finish face' on S4S has unacceptable knife marks spaced out at about 7 cuts per inch instead of the 96 I get with the DeWalt thickness planer. 😳😁😎 Regardless it's interesting to hear your approach for the project you did! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt, yes, some of the clear wood I have access to, especially pine, has a beautiful, glass-like finish. That said, even if I needed to create that finished face surface myself, I think I would still saw the bevel into the back face, saving the time and effort to make a sled. But both methods end up with nearly the identical result. (In theory, at least, I'd imagine your product to be a bit cleaner, but in practical terms, not necessarily enough so for me to put in the extra time.)
I am preparing to make some window trim for my kitchen window and your video has provided me with some valuable information. Thank you!
Let me know how it goes Roger... there's lots of styles of trim to make but attention to details like those shown in this video apply to many of them. Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry bb
Wow, I love your presentation, style and method. Your planer jig was genius! I laughed out loud relating to your sentiment when you made the last touch not to have a sharp angle after the dado blade. No cheap Chinese knockoffs built in your workshop! Great! Thanks for sharing!
DIY Geez, thanks for this nice comment here on NLC! Glad you liked the video. If the little sharp angle thing made you laugh I'm guessing you're a bit like me and that little stuff like that 'makes my brain itch' if I don't do it just because no one will ever see it... both a blessing and a curse, right?
Are you actively building your DIY Geezer Channel? You've got a catchy icon/logo and channel banner going anyways... and I hope things go well for you regardless.
Best, Matt
Thank you for turning down the volume on the planer. It's a mark of a master that your attention to detail crosses over to the video editing as well. I can't watch many CZcams instructional videos when I have a chance because the power tool whine is louder than the rest of the video and drives the wife and baby bonkers. It's much appreciated!
Thanks for noticing and commenting on that... I try to make them as 'watchable' as possible but sound quality and video are still far from ready for prime time, as they say, but as long as viewers like you are able to watch and learn it's a good thing.😌 Best, Matt
I am not a woodworker and don't have a great attention span and no need to replicate any trim, but your videos are very easy to watch, glad you stained them in the end an would have loved to have seen them fitted,
Thanks for watching and for the sub! 😎Best, Matt
Just got back into town and had the "Next Level Carpentry" on my mind! Great seeing this piece as well! Semper Fi
Thanks man... this video is an oldie but a goodie IMHO! Hope you get some R&R... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry it has gotten quite busy! More to follow off line.
That’s clever - I was thinking of making a sled that I’d attach each piece to, and running it through. Your approach is simpler - adding a fixed sled/base that you can then feed the pieces through. Good approach - I will have to try that next time I need to do something like this.
Man I’ve watched only one of your videos and I one day hope I can gain this type of knowledge. I know it took a very long time to know what you know. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and expedite some of this information. You truly are a craftsman
Jackson, It's to know of your ambition to 'gain this type of knowledge' since my main goal in producing videos for Next Level Carpentry is to share what I've learned from the School of Hard Knocks with guys like you who are eager to take their skills to the next level. Browse through the NLC Playlists and let me know what you pick up from other videos there? If you face some particularly troubling challenge as you work feel free to ask questions and I may even tailor a video to answer a specific question for you...
Best,
Matt JACKSON :-) (can't go wrong with THAT name, can you?! )
This was a long video, but well worth it. I'm really interested in making all of my own trim and crown molding. This was a good start. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I hope to do a video in the next few months that shows how amazing a Williams and Hussey moulder is for making custom trim. I've used mine to make huge 6" coved crowns and many different casing profiles. A machine like that can quickly pay for itself if you do any quantity of custom trims Tim so stay tuned! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I will be looking for your video. I have to do it on the cheap. Bought a Craftsman moulding set with 6 profiles and a briefcase full of router bits with a 1/2 inch shank. I've seen a lot of special molding bits, from many manufacturers. Almost bought some of them. There are 2 videos that changed my mind. Both, Stumpy Nubs, first was a pivoting router table and the other on stacked profiles for glue-ups to get any profile I want.
In the next few weeks I will be taking all 60 bits and the 6 molding blades to my computer. Have a drawing program that has up to 10 layers. A 6 inch Crown has a maximum of 6 different profiles. Otherwise it looks"too busy". I saw the old hand planers with the full profiles. Boy they had it tough. I started in Electronics at 17. Attention to detail, is the first thing I learned. YOU, showed that SINGULAR passion of getting it done right and examining each board for the best cuts. I do that as well, but the PENCIL, while facing a board, never saw it, never thought of it, that one step throughout your process, prompted me to watch you work. I didn't want to miss a beat and watched straight through. I believe that you are a master Craftsman and a good teacher. Have a great day.
@@timthomas9105 cool! I understand 'on the cheap' and operated on that principal for many years before business built to where I can justify capital expenditures. It's amazing what you can achieve with a bit of ingenuity though! I'm always glad to hear when someone like you realizes that less is more and knows to avoid the 'too busy' look that snookers many inexperienced woodworkers. It's a constant siren song that I have to avoid. I use the mantra of a famous designer I've worked with who says "just because you CAN do more doesn't mean you SHOULD"! Hope you get to check out other trim/moulding videos here at Next Level Carpentry... just browse the Videos tab and I think you'll see an number of other tips and tricks that yield surprising results considering their simplicity. Thanks for watching and commenting here... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm honored to learn from a True Artisan. I have watched a number of quick tips, mods and build this or that jig. But they don't MAKE many things that impart A to B to Finished Product. I don't need to hang another hook for a jig. I want to make or repair things for people. Doing Electronics, I had the necessary tools and equipment, but the finished product was a repaired object that someone used. I may be disabled, and a little slower to finish something, but I really want my hands to do quality work. I see that in your end product as well. At the beginning of this video, arm resting on the stack. Your very stance said "I made this". So thank you.
Matt, nice job showing the process and the thinking that goes into reproducing old or hard to find millwork.I have that same planer. I usually run narrow boards at an angle so as to use the whole width of the blades. Plus, it gives a slight shear cut and there is less snipe(if any) when I feed them diagonally.
Good pointer on running stuff diagonally Bob... thanks for adding it here! Best, Matt
Great video, I'm adding a planer to my tool collection! I love your sign "CAUTION: THIS MACHINE HAS NO BRAIN USE YOUR OWN"
The sign always generates a smile! BTW you can get one of your very own here if you like: teespring.com/new-caution-this-machine-has?tsmac=store&tsmic=next-level-carpentry-swag-shop&pid=663&cid=102920 Best, Matt
Some really great tips!
I remember in collage making similar style door facings and matching skirting board's all with hand tool's. Here's your planks of wood and here's what i want! . Here are 2 planks of wood, make a 15 pane glass door with zero power tools! Oh boy was that a test lol. It was all part of the learning and those hand tool skills never got used on any building sites i worked on. The old timers carpentry has gone, its all about speed and production and how big is your motor sort of thing. It's only a hobby for me to use my tools now. Love watching the skills of others and you are a next level carpenter. Excellent job. Subscribed to your channel and thumbs up. Monty in Scotland.
Monty... in Scotland? Cool! Thanks for the international subscription! A compliment from someone with your carpentry background is very meaningful to me.
I get the idea we share nostalgia for some of the old school things from our past. I try to stay current and embrace new methods, tools and materials but each new thing edges out an old favorite. As much as I'm thankful for knowledge from bygone days I'd be upset if someone took my 18 volt Makita cordless tools away from me :-) Progress demands a price, yes?
Very nice. So many helpful little tips. I especially like the jig for cutting the bevel in the thickness planer. I will look forward to seeing more of your videos.
Thanks, M... glad you like and appreciate the 'little tips'. Keep that bevel jig for the thickness planer in mind because I use variations of it for all manner of things and I suspect you will too now that you have it 'in your bag of tricks' :-) Best, Matt
Are you SH**TING ME? A sled for the thickness planer? Dear Lord you are inventive, thank you for this incredible tip.
Absolutely! They can be quite useful for all manner of projects like this: czcams.com/video/86di2rV63wc/video.html
Thanks for the Masters class on milling wood
You're welcome Tony... it's not my best video production but there's some solid information in it IMHO. Best, Matt
This is a great video showing every step and consideration to execute a perfect replication of your moulding.
I especially appreciate your attention to detail, which for me is paramount.
Great workmanship ensured your excellent results.
Kudos on a fabulous job and a very informative video!
Thanks, Steven, for commenting on this one. It's an older NLC video that lacks a bit of refinement in its production so I'm glad you found it informative. Hope you'll check out more current videos at Next Level Carpentry that have similar level of detail for some interesting projects you might find interesting. This 'wooden cylinders' video is one example: czcams.com/video/2IqDsPXfzjk/video.html
Still a bit clumsy in production but the process should be interesting if not useful :-)
Best,
Matt
Great job I’ve been making my own moulding years
Awesome stuff. Thanks for showing.👍🎈
Very concise. Very well presented.
Keep it coming.
Thanks, Jeff.
It's harder to get the 'well presented' part right than to do the actual work but both are a fun and rewarding exercise. Hope you find ways to apply some of the methods shown to take your carpentry to the Next Level!
Spoiler: the next video upload is going to show how to turn round wooden cylinders with a shop-built router lathe... I'll be curious to hear what you think if/when you get a chance to see it.
Regards,
Matt
Sure you would... and produce a video for your subscriber too while you were at it, right?
Wow! This is an old video. Thought it was someone else for a min. Then I saw the giant carpenters pencil.
Great tips as usual Matt.
Had a bit of a chuckle when I saw the “No Brain” sign mounted on your planner after seeing your missing finger tip and the black finger nail. I now understand why you’re constantly stressing the safety aspects of shop work in your newer videos.
A bit of a chuckle? You post is a sign of a lack of brains.
Nice process Matt you could have been a watch maker👍
Thanks Ty, I've always admired watch maker's precision and can't fathom what it takes to be proficient at detail on their near-microscopic scale but appreciate your comment all the same! Best, Matt
Nice way to finish a beveled cut on the thickness planer, I like it!
Thanks HNB! I've developed a strong dislike for sanding stuff and resort to all sorts of 'outside the box' methods like this one to avoid it :-). I get the idea you've got a healthy imagination and will probably come up with other variations of custom planer guides similar to this one to get time saving results from your planer too!
Best,
Matt
Extremely interesting and helpful. I'm so glad I found and submitted to your channel.
Bulwul,
I'd glad too... stay tuned! I hope my next video in the publishing pipeline will be interesting and helpful to you too.
I like your videos and would like to make a suggestion: In place of your tortured 8-degree planning work, may I suggest a sanding plate to replace your saw blade? It makes a MUCH smoother finish on the wood than a blade or planer and is far less work. I use a Ø9" plate quite often to achieve very silky results.
I’ve been a carpenter since 1976 but know that I haven’t learned everything. That’s why I’m here.
You've got about 3 years on me, Jeffrey, and I'll bet I'd learn more than a few things from you too! Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry I started while in Grade 11.
That's a long, long road, Jeffrey! Man a LOT of things have changed since then, haven't they?! I did grunt work for a two-man carpenter circus in suburban Chicago summers during high school grades 10 & 11 (like 1972 & '73) then took a 4~5 year hiatus from construction to do restorative bodywork on exotic cars. Left the bodyshop for the jobbsite in about '79 and never looked back. Bet yours has been an interesting journey too? Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry I was a Detroit FF for a while then flew helicopters in the Army. Returned to firefighting but getting closer to 60 the body said it was time to do carpentry full time. I do finish carpentry but right now have a couple of millwright jobs.
Interesting career path... great to have something like finish carpentry to fall back on, right? Are you set up for 'millwright' jobs in your own shop or are you doing them in a company shop? Either way it's cool to be the guy who gets that work, leave the demolition, framing, concrete to those kids who still have to prove something! Are you still in Michigan?
My godfather would save all sorts of trim he removed from demo jobs. Whenever he would go do a custom job he would sort through his stack and make something unique. He was so good that people would hire him to produce unique cabinets/doors with no price quoted.
o.b.
Your godfather sounds like my kind of guy! Anyone who develops their skillset and reputation to the point that normal is 'no price quoted' has accomplished something in their life!
Won’t your DuWalt BS1000 board stretcher put the material back on if you cut too much off? It may be a little tricky with the umbigulation control settings, nut in theory it should work!
Love your work! You take great care in your workmanship.
I could use that BS 1000 more often than I'd like to admit that's for sure😂😎 Best, Matt
Another excellent video. Now I could not help but notice the injuries to your fingers, specially, the shortened nail, which looks dramatically like my own of a couple of years ago. Maybe you'll tell us the story behind it, if it was woodworking. Mine was kickback, learned a valuable lesson, should have known better to begin with.
Been there, haven't you, Nic? Membership in a club no one wants to be in... and it's a lifetime membership (maybe it should be called a dis-member-ship?). I suppose I should tell the audience about it someday... For now, your perception is accurate; poked that fingertip into a spinning jointer head... the 'wouldda, shudda, couldda's' never go away, do they? Glad you like the videos, brother! Best, Matt
Love the work sir
Glad to hear it, Chris... thanks for commenting AND subscribing! Hope you find some other videos you like on Next Level Carpentry! Best, Matt
i sure wish we had lumber stores all we have is big box stores with kiln dried that you can wring the water out
The stain match was impressive - did you know what the original stain was or could you describe how you go about matching the stain so accurately?
The trim was for my own house so I had prior knowledge of the complexity of getting an acceptable match... Mrs Next Level Carpentry and I are pretty picky when it comes to such things 😉😁😎 As far as getting that sort of match it's all about finding the right person at the right paint store. I doubt you'll ever find anyone with the depth of knowledge and experience at a big box store. They need to have a big bag-o-tricks to get anything acceptable so be prepared to hunt for that person. You'll know you found the right one where you can tell that they've made your problem a personal challenge with determination to get it right... then don't loose them once you've found 'em! Best, Matt
Thanks!
Thank YOU Tim! Hope your trim fabrication process went well... and if this helped or inspired you project I'm honored to share...
Best,
Matt
Thanks for another great video!
As always with your vids, more learning, in this case about using the thickness planer in a way I haven't thought of.
I am curious about the finish, did you use a pre-stain conditioner on the wood?
Thanks Matt, Gary
You're welcome Gary. I will use stain conditioner at times but this trim was a case where a special brush on/brush off technique makes the staining process more like applying a thick, dark glaze than staining. I haven't done a video on it but should some day because its an alternative to getting a very even stain job on the most difficult woods when even stain conditioner leaves an undesirable result. Best, Matt
All the best!. Thank you.
Nice. Good for painting
Thanks, good for staining too, which, IMHO is a higher standard since defects in pieces of trim slated for painting can be filled where EVERYTHING in a stained piece of wood shows :-) Best, Matt
Love your teaching. I've been a carpenter most of my life and you are teaching me a few things. One question is that on 2 of your videos that I have watched now, for your relief dado cuts you move the fence over instead of turning the piece around and sending it back thru the saw. Why?
Hey dnmtorp, great question. The main reason I've done the back out that way on trim is that I want a wider lug on one edge of the trim than the other. I'm sure you've noticed that that is typical on moldings and the reason is that a small lug on the one edge allows the trim to fit tighter to the sheetrock (on base) and a window or door jamb for casing. The Wider lug on the other edge helps keep it from digging in 2 sheetrock when nailed. It's a pretty insignificant difference but hey as long as I'm making Custom Trim I can easily add that little detail. after all I'm usually the guy that installs the trim I make and I know I appreciate it during installation. :-) there are other times when making Channel moldings Etc that the lug on either side of the trim is symmetrical and then I will generally do it the way you suggest because it's simpler and faster and makes both lugs come out identical. hope that answers your question I appreciate your comments and attention to Next Level carpentry videos!! Best, Matt
Info like this is why I read the whole blog after watching any of your videos. There are so many tips that carry well beyond making a simple casing. @@NextLevelCarpentry
@@francismccabe3265 I get concerned about driving viewers away when I 'hover' over NLC comments so it's good to know it's not all for naught... thanks! Best, Matt
I have that same planer, and it's a helluva lot quieter w/ the Shelix head installed. Are you using the factory knives, or something different?
Also, how do you set the planer to a precision like "strong 11/16"? Its gauge isn't terribly precise to read, and you can be off by a tick mark depending upon the angle from which you view it.
Still using factory knives for a number of reasons but your mention of 'lot quieter' has me intrigued a bit as I've not heard that benefit before. My final assessment is to hold in my hands a piece run through with knives next to one run through the shelix. I have to see for myself what everyone claims is a perfectly smooth finish.
For your planer precision I'll tell you to ditch reliance on the depth gauge completely (the one that you set to 1/8", 1/4" etc)... you're being to generous to say it 'isn't terribly precise'... it's just plain old terrible! I'm able to dial in depth with absolute precision using the vertical scale this way:
Plane a flat piece of wood down to an exact thickness, say 1" when measured with a good quality caliper. Most importantly take note of the 'clock position' of the depth setting crank handle when you reach it. Set the depth gauge to read as close to 1" as you can (it's not terribly important here) like with the cursor on the underside of the 1" graduation line. From this point you know absolutely that one full rotation of the crank handle moves the cutterhead up or down exactly 1/16", 1/64" per 90 degrees of rotation. Currently when my crank handle is at the 9:00 position it's exactly the 1/16" increment the cursor is closest to. I think this varies from machine to machine so determine how yours reads. Once you understand this relationship it follows at every 1/16"increment up and down the scale. I frequently mill wood to 3/4" thick for cabinet doors, etc and know with confidence that when the vernier reads 3/4" and the crank handle is at 9:00 then the finished thickness is exactly 3/4". If I want a 'fat 3/4"' I rotate the crank CCW 90 degrees to the 6:00 postion and will get 47/64" finished thickness. Rotating to 12:00 yields 49/64" without fail. Hope this helps... get to 'know' your machine and you'll get precise results consistently! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry - Dude, wow... I was _not_ expecting a reply to my comment on a nearly 4 year-old video, let alone a reply within 24 hours... *_let_* *_alone_* such a detailed, thorough, and genuinely helpful reply. Your work and your explanations are unparalleled, and this is why I keep coming back. Thank you.
@@pterafirma Yeah, I could be accused of kind of 'hovering' over Next Level Carpentry but my mission is to share with engaged viewers who are want to learn. Let me know if/how this works for you... I pinned your comment because yours is probably a more common frustration then either of us suspect...
Why not cut the bevel on the back side so you don’t have to mill it again? (You would just have to do the sides-maybe even after you round over).
Thanks for commenting, Curt, and an interesting question. The quick answer is that I wouldn't want to install stained trim with a saw-cut surface on the back because it would leave a 'fuzzy' corner exposed where the trim is nailed to the jamb. I guess if it were painted trim and going to get caulked to the jamb it could be considered unnecessary for some but not acceptable in my mind. I don't want to sound above anyone or come across as preachy because realities of jobs and timelines sometimes justify simpler methods for practicality. All that said I feel that 98% of the time the little extra effort it take to set up and make a first-rate moulding is worth the effort even if the carpenter is the only one who really knows the quality going into the work. I like the credo 'it takes a LOT to be good and just a little more to be the best' 😎
Next Level Carpentry for sure!! Very detail oriented stuff Matt. You know you can planer some material back on in SketchUp (lol). Think I'll head back to your The Digital Jobsite channel and learn some more stuff there. Thanks for sharing..
Mike,
Hope you like The Digital Jobsite... I only wish I had enough time to add content there too because SU stuff is so important at NLC. FYI a SketchUp model is behind every project on Next Level Carpentry and I often use SU as a 'visual construction calculator' for figuring stuff out... the whole 'build with bytes before boards' theme thing. It's fun you've realized the statement 'you can cut 'em off but you can't cut 'em on' is true at Next Level Carpentry but not at The Digital Jobsite. Let me know if you have any SU questions and I'll try to help out.
Best,
Matt
Hi Matt, how do you find the costing for a Carpenter to make there own skirting/arc's/scosha compared to buying off the shelf? Is this application used for older homes where it will be hard to find? Sorry for the list of questions I am an apprentice Carpenter at the moment and just trying to build my knowledge. Keep up the great work 👍
kingpin; the 'first foot' cost of a custom moulding profile is a shock to most people so the times it's practical or necessary are rare. Off the shelf mouldings make those first foot costs disappear so their per-foot price is a great value. Custom moulding cutters run about $100 per inch of moulding width so the first foot of a 2" moulding can be $200 per foot for the cutters alone. Add material and labor and you could easily hit $300 for one foot! That cost drops dramatically as you go 100, 500 or 1,000 linear feet but you'll never hit the per foot cost of an off the shelf moulding since they're literally running miles of the stuff. The key to being a successful and profitable carpenter doing custom millwork jobs is to dial in to the clients and projects where other factors justify the higher cost for those custom mouldings. I've just shared a paradigm shifted secret with you and, if you think it through and apply it, you have a nugget of knowledge that can put you in the rare position of a fulfilling and rewarding career. Many people never get past the normal approach to this sort of thing that has them getting paid to install 'off the shelf' mouldings which pretty much anyone can do. Hope this helps you along the path less traveled... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for taking the time to explain the process to me, I'll take on board your advice. Expect more questions from me (if you dont mind) as your amazing videos keep coming. Keep up the good work. Ta
@@kingpinjunky0219 I won't always be able to respond as attentively but know I read all comments and enjoy hearing how viewers are doing as they learn and progress. Another small credo I've applied to help guide my decisions and direction: It takes a LOT to be good... and just a little more to be the best! You seem like the kind of person to ponder and apply such maxims... Best to you! Matt
Hey Matt. Really like your attention to detail. I noticed that you've got some stuff going on with at least one of your pinky fingers. I had the same thing on both of mine and just had them fixed. Mine were MUCH worse. Let me know if you have any questions about it. Barry
Hey Barry, glad you like the 'attention to detail'... it's always a judgement call between detail included and video length and I tend to ignore advice to minimize video length... guess I'm more carpenter than video producer :-)
Sorry to hear you messed up some pinkies... it's a life event for sure! In few other occupations does such a small mistake have such visible and lasting effects. One poor choice and one micro-second leaves a lifetime reminder to pay attention to safe practices... and I still have to make a conscious focused effort not to rush through setups and procedures. Hope you're able to work through your 'much worse' situation without undue self-criticism. Best, Matt
Matt, sorry for the confusion. My pinkies are not the result of a woodworking accident. It is a genetic condition called Dupuytren's Contracture. Looking at your video, it looked like you had the same thing going on with your right pinky finger. That is why I said "let me know if you have any questions about it". Maybe not. Thanks for responding by the way.
No worries... I was assuming. Regardless of cause it's 'our cross to bear', right. I see what you mean about 'stuff going on' with my pinkies. As far as I know mine are the way they are from work I've done all my life. My right pinky has been curved in like that since 6th grade when I broke the bone in my hand when I punched a bully in the head and the cast was put on too tight :-) Thanks for your attentive concern and if you're seeing something from your experience/perspective you think I should be aware of (like 'boy, if someone would have told me ???? I would have done this years earlier) let me know? Thank you! Matt
I didn't notice the pinkies but I did notice the right index finger. Looks like that happened a very long time ago.
Yup... the right index finger was an instant of poor judgement for a lifetime of regret. The take away is pay attention and work sensibly! Best, Matt
This channel deserve way more than 15K! subscribers, I really wish I subscribed earlier, excellent and informative video.
One step staining of such wood without problem is wonder, what is the stain brand, type and color you are using here?
Thanks.
Hey Ahmed, I appreciate your vote of confidence for Next Level Carpentry! Adding so many NLC videos to your 'Liked Videos' playlist is the sort of thing that CZcams notices which helps promote the channel which helps ramp up subscriber numbers so I appreciate that too :-)
The stain is Old Masters Dark Mahogany #11804 custom tinted to match existing trim. I use an uncommon method for applying stain that used only brushes that allows me to apply a uniform dark coat that isn't possible using rags. I really like this particular stain and although application is a bit tricky, professional results are at least possible with it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!! Best, Matt
Great
What is the point of putting those cuts on the backside?
If you ever try to hang trim without that 'backout profile' or relief on the back side you'll have an answer to your question...
@@NextLevelCarpentry
Is it to give the board Flexibility?
I’m about to make my own trim.
@@Ricks2Cents The backout profile provides clearance for irregularities in surfaces it is being fastened to allowing it to fit tight to walls... it's a bit surprising how helpful even a small back out is in getting professional results with installed trim. Unless your walls are PERFECTLY plumb and door/window jambs installed PERFECTLY within them, you'll save time spent adding a backout profile many times over when you install it. There's a few more videos here on Next Level Carpentry where I make various trim profiles that might help you anticipate what you'll encounter if making your own trim for the first time... best of luck with your project, Rick!
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry
I bought an Old Farm House Built in 1865!!!
I have Allot of Projects!!! I at first thought maybe I bite off more than I could chew, but I’m finally getting a handle on it. Being a Lineman on Storm Watch and a Mile Long Honey Do List do not always mesh well together.
@@Ricks2Cents you might want to check out the video I did about impeccable trim is not impossible trim to see how great a molder is for making Custom Trim especially if you have any kind of volume to do. It might help you spend your time more effectively in between storm watch Duty and honeydews! 😎
Matt I'm concerned about not seeing any new posts! I hope all is well.
Your concern is SO thoughtful billeybop and most appreciated! Lack of posts is due to a fantastic set of circumstances which are very good, almost beyond measure. We've moved to a 'new' home which means setting up a new workspace. Also, as I type I'm minutes away from heading to SketchUp BaseCamp in Palm Springs where I'll be presenting a Workshop and learning cool stuff about the software from great people from all over the world. Preparing for the workshop has taken priority an used up all the time and mental energy I usually take for producing videos. I'm quite excited about videos 'in the pipeline' which will start with one explaining the transition out of the Next Level Carpentry shop and into the new one. I'm feeling blessed by the inquiry in your comment, thank you SO much for your thoughtful concern, billey, you and your comments are a source of encouragement! Best, Matt
One might say you have moved to the "next Level" hahaha. Glad to know you are fine and wish you all the best. Good luck and thanks for getting back to me.
@@billeybop you bet... I'm really anxious to start getting videos produced again as I'm starting to have CZcams withdrawal symptoms😆
You can handle it! :)
Really enjoy your channel but this one got me wondering.....that's a lot of work for a very common trim. Did you figure in the time and material?
Bob, glad you like the channel. I'm not surprised you're wondering about this video!
I do this sort of work on a cost plus basis BECAUSE it's a lot of work. That way my clients decide if it's worth the $$ for 'a very common trim'. In this case the trim WAS a common profile.... back in the '50s when the house was built. The style and availability has long since disappeared so when a remodel project required replacing just 12' or so of this profile to make everything match they decided it was a better value to replace 12' at $30 per foot (and little installation labor) than maybe 300 feet at $5 per foot plus a LOT of installation labor.
25:12 Shop humor.😁
This video has been out for over 3 years and you're the first to comment on that little bit of silliness Ralph... thanks! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I enjoy subtle humor. Don't need to be hit over the head with one of those boards no matter how nice you finish them.
@@ralph5450 Seen this one? czcams.com/video/bgS6-O2APWY/video.html some subtle 'easter eggs' in there along with more blatant sillieness... but only if you've got a little spare time! 😁🙄😎 Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I wasn't aware of that model. I have an early competitive company's one and it puts the extension on the other end of the board.
Putty knife! Thank you!
Another great video. What brand/model is your table saw rip fence? I might need a new one for my unisaw.
Thanks tallyman. The rip fence is the OEM Rockwell/Delta Unifence that came with the saw back in about 1983. It was way ahead of its time back then and it has always served me well but its design is a bit fussy and delicate. It is relatively lightweight and versatile which suits me well for the wide variety of operations I end up doing on a given project. If I were ever to upgrade I'd probably go with a Biesmeyer style fence instead because they lock down on both ends of the table rather than the 't-square' arrangement of the unifence making them a bit more robust. The other drawback of the Unifence IMHO is that I have to switch the sliding fence from one side to the other for operations on the left side of the blade. I'd be curious what you decide... Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry Good info. I have looked at the delta T-3 fence. Seems like a decent price. The fence that came on my unisaw was an aftermarket Exact-i-fence.
You're doing the right thing to shop and research for such a key piece of equipment. Tough to do precision work with a sub-standard fence. I will say that a long as I respect the UniFence it doesn't disappoint with consistent accuracy. I've got it zeroed precisely to the right side of the blade and can depend on it for +/- 1/128th inch accuracy... which is mainly a challenge because of my eyesight :-)
Next Level Carpentry that is some tight tolerances.
I didn't want to be snooty with that spec, I'm just saying that I can make a cut to 6-1/2" say, and then make the piece 'fat' by 1/64" or so by moving the cursor thingy to the other side of the width of the line on the fence's tape for a very slight but noticeable difference. All that without relying on a tape measure or uncertainty about performance of the fence or it's locking mechanism. Sorry if I implied machinist's accuracy 'cuz it's not THAT good but is highly accurate and reliable. Main thing is that performance of the fence isn't the weak link in the chain for accuracy and reliability. Best, Matt
It looks like you cut the tip of your pointer finger off.
You would get a lot more views if you put that pencil behind your ear.lol
Good one Cavern... LOL! Best, Matt
Fantastic tutorial by the way. Best wishes from Liverpool.
Liverpool? COOL! Glad you like the video. Have a look at the 'How to Sharpen a Carpenter's Pencil' video on Next Level Carpentry where I include a little stunt of putting a (rather large) pencil behind my ear. 😂😎 Curiously I've never been a 'pencil behind the ear' kind of guy and don't like to wear flannel shirts with the sleeves rolled up but adopting both would probably have the positive affect you mention. Cheers! Matt
Don't ever try to do a curved rail bend and installation ....your aversion to sanding will make you crazy lol
Curved and helical handrail installs are the whole reason I have a sanding aversion Douglas! 😳😀😎 Best, Matt
I make them at Lpwe,s and Home Depot
Nice change to see blisters and calisis crooked fingers and a real woodworker instead of I watched it on Google and now I'm posting this kinda chump
Full disclosure I don't want to be accused of being a poser but I neglected to go and see my manicurist before I shot this video😉😂😂😎
8:48 real world😂
Matt, am really liking your profesional and attention to detail. I'm very "anal" (insert joke here)when it comes to making things just right. I think your view count would be much improved if you streamlined your videos some, like only show each step on ONE piece and not all or several. In this day and age everybody is in a hurry, most of the more popular creators have videos around 10-15 minutes long. Just my thoughts hope they are helpful.
Pat M, thanks for commenting to let me know you like the attention to detail in Next Level Carpentry videos. I always appreciate feedback like yours... it really helps me with the CZcams learning curve.
There's a definite balancing act between 'content density' and video length that I have a lot to learn about and use while video editing. This older video definitely suffers from both density and length. I'll work to apply your advice to show steps on fewer pieces as long as it still shows what's important, which should usually be on one piece. Comments from other viewers are mixed on video length so I still don't know if a single 45 minute video that covers a whole topic in one segment is better than slicing the same message up into 3 segments. If you check out Playlists on this channel you'll see both. The 'Wood Cylinders' is a long one. Triangle Trellis is 3 long parts and the 3 most recent videos "How to Cut a Straight Edge...", 'How Far Out Gauge' and 'Super Shims' started out as one long video and I ended up splitting it up. I'd be curious to know what you think of those more recent videos if/when you have (a lot of? ) time. I feel they have "(my) professional... attention to detail" and better content density but I only guess at viewer's perception.
Best,
Matt
PS Judging by the length I'm afraid my replies suffer like my videos do... :-(
Too long and slow