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I get it from a local cabinet supply house but here's one option online (although I know nothing about them): www.woodworkerssource.com/melamine-white-14-g1s-thermofuse.html

Forever.

@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you

Why?

Thanks for watching and commenting on this video! It helps offset the trolls who leave comments that NLC videos are way to long to hold their gnat-like attention spans! Best, Matt

Here's one option for that slick "How Far Out Gauge" tool: amzn.to/4ddLNbX

Yes... but it's okay if you're really slow and it takes you a couple of hours. You can always set 30 minutes as a goal and someday maybe you'll be able to build them that quick too😂

"No Festool for this footstool" is a great mantra... thank you!!

It sounds like you're missing experience that helps decide which of many methods to use for cutting a straight edge on a crooked board. The one shown in the video is my go-to when I have more than 1 or two pieces to straighten but, often, using a basic straight edge as you suggest is a better choice for a one-off use IMHO.

You're quite welcome! BTW I was literally working on this same house just today, years after making this video and it's still the best method out there for the potentially difficult/messy job of removing Dryvit type cladding IMHO.

You're too kind, Corey... but thank you!

Good call... that's what I normally do but, for this project I only had to rout the door edge and the original position of the fence in the video clamps on more easily to the door. Truth be told I had to backpedal when I decided to produce a video on the process, hence the fence switch-er-oo in the video.

@@NextLevelCarpentry since we are airing it out. I used to only do single jigs for three hinge doors and jambs. It wasn’t until later I figure out I could route the single temp into 3 hinge template. To think of how many doors I did like that. 😂 There are so many different size plates that come with hardware these days. I make nearly of all of my jigs for strike plates and hinges. By dropping the material in on the table saw. ( I know). But there is a safe way to do that- all ways putting light forward movement on the material. The radius jig I made was done with a rectangular hole sized to the hinge dimensions. . I used that as a guide for the forstner drill bit. I then cut the top and bottom of the hinge jig edge with a miter saw and dropped the vertical long side the hinge on a table saw. I’ve seen a video where the guys route the jamb and door with one jig and the same time. 🤪 Some many ways to skin a cat. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

@@IndianaJBird Ahh, yes: there are SO many ways to separate a feline from its fur! It's cool to hear how your process evolved over time... I can totally relate to that!

Yup... sorry it's so short because I much prefer going into more detail for those who don't catch on as fast.

I think you mean your live edge piece is about 18" WIDE, not thick? For that situation I'd be much more inclined to use a more typical straightedge clamped/fastened to the piece and make the cut with a hand-held circular saw.

Thanks for watching and commenting on this video... after all it's 4 years old with only 10K views! Some of my best tips for the process though and ones I use every time I make small mouldings!

A bit of relatively inexpensive masking tape is a real game changer, that's a for-sure! 😎

Sad truth about a lot of fast-growth lumber sold these days. I always make every effort to buy the straightest stuff available because this would only help to get straight 2x4's out of pieces 2x6 or wider but I always have this trick up my sleeve as a backup. Best part is that I'm usually able to salvage more than a few pieces of old lumber on remodeling projects this way and avoid the high cost (and poor quality) of new lumber in the first place.

I'm not gonna judge... whatever works for you!

Thanks for watching and commenting on this video Stephen. The concept certainly has potential for other applications but for full disclosure I should say that, at the length built in the video, it's great for a light weight camera but would need some thoughtful engineering to support anything like a blade guard that needs to be more fixed/rigid IMHO. Best, Matt.

Exactly!

Oh, and I'm getting myself one of those erasers

I wish I could say I never need/use my jumbo "OOPS" eraser but I'd be lyin' if I did... I think you'll like one if/when you get one!

No issues whatsoever regarding function and performance. I'd buy the same machine today if I had it to do over again. There was a definite mental transition period going from A/C motor and belt drive to the way the DC motor and direct drive runs but, now that I'm used to it I'm able to do more, more quickly and efficiently than any previous drillpress type or model. I've got to say that I wish I'd switched to a keyless chuck years earlier though because that alone makes the setup and bit change process so much quicker, regardless of the motor and drive system...

Thanks for bringing this to my attention Larry... not sure when or how the link got busticated but I updated the link in the video description with this link where you can find the great Graf carving disk and restorer tool: www.amazon.com/shop/nextlevelcarpentry/list/2YDX33SWCBWMR?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfnextlevelcarpentry_TW01AGW99ES2FEMJTY8Q_1 Please let me know if this answers your question and/or if you have others and I'll try to help you for helping me! Best, Matt

This probably isn't a reply you expect: Actually I wouldn't recommend this method for your project as described. The newel would only be as solid as that bottom tread, which isn't designed for the 'stress'. That's good news because, since you can remove the bottom step you should be able to extend the new newel down through the bottom step and into the floor framing below in a more standard installation. I encourage you to do a bit more research and expect you'll find other videos that apply more directly to your project. You're a smart person to be pre-planning and thinking through your design and I'm confident your project will turn out great! Best, Matt

@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you for the advice.

My guess is that you're lacking experience "In a jobsite situation..." because, anyone who had real-world jobsite experience has encountered plenty of situations where straight pieces of non-standard width are needed. That experience also teaches carpenters that the cost of lumber makes it more than economical to get maximum yield out of crooked boards by making straight, narrower pieces out of wider, crooked stuff, hence the lesson in the video.

Your reason is exZACTly the same as mine... no surprise to me; a pinched finger or two from 'backwards' hinges is enough to make the lesson stick for a lifetime!

@@NextLevelCarpentry And I have scars to show the other method doesn't work well. 😎

@@jerrystark6766 And every scar is a lesson learned!

@@NextLevelCarpentry As I look at my hands, it would appear that I am a learned man. 😎

too funny... if only they made fancy diplomas to recognize every 'lesson' learned by injury for us to hang on our walls!

Uhmmm... thank you? 🤨

Thank YOU for the Super Thanks, Rob... much appreciated! If you're doing a similar beam project I hope this video really helps. FWIW If I were doing another beam project this week I'd use the same sequence and methods shown in this video again.

I don't like to 'bait and switch' but can tell you I did do a couple 'behind the scenes' videos featuring the doors that got posted as Patron-only content in case you'd find enough value in learning about the doors to check it out... Best, Matt

You betcha! This is not the sort of thing you want to make a career out of but I can tell you the more of them you do the faster and easier it gets😊

I hope you didn't miss the bigger point in physics class like you did here. Hint: don't rely on the professor to teach you, apply yourself and learn! The video shows how to easily make a template for round corner hinges, not to solve every hinge-routing situation that exists. Thinking outside the box for just a few seconds I can think of half a dozen ways to modify/ adapt the jig to work in any situation I've ever encountered and challenge you do try some creative thinking for a change.