Hi Matt, Please don't change your style. The detailed explanations may be lost on people who already know how to do this stuff, but for those trying to learn, I have found no other creators who even come close. The chapter list is a great way to allow people to focus on the parts they are less clear on. Thanks again. PS. I'm always here at the end of the end of the bitter end because of the tips.
Matt, there will always be people who criticize your work, no matter the caliber. Keep being you and pay no mind to the critics. Can I encourage you to not even mention the critics/trolls? They don't deserve your time and it detracts from your content. Keep up the good work.
You're too kind, Mike... thank you! At close to 2 full hours in length, the next NLC video is going to have plenty of seconds to love so I hope you don't change your opinion of this type of video/content. 😉😃
anyone who criticizes the length of this video simply does not get the concept of this channel. "next level" means that this is going to be different. We, your loyal viewers, appreciate all of the detail.
I am a retired 67 year old . Wood working is my hobby. I watch CZcams videos read books and magazines. Subscribed to your channel sometime ago. Never have i learned so much useful information in 1 hour 20 minutes in my life. Thank you. 1:15:37
Matt, another fantastic video. In fact I’m glad you shared this one this morning as I am planning on starting a new project in the workshop this afternoon and was contemplating how to replicate several pieces that would match exactly. The template and router wasn’t in my original thought process, but you’ve solved my problem. Going to take the time to make a few templates as I begin. I always enjoy your projects and appreciate the time, effort and energy you put into creating these videos to share your ideas, knowledge and techniques.
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one. Best of luck with template making and on the project as a whole. FWIW I've found infinitely more possibilities than restrictions where templates are concerned over the years and suspect you'll see the benefit on more and more projects as you make the paradigm shift away from direct layout and fabrication.
LOL... what Mamma wants, Mamma gets... for Christmas? Have fun with the build! Keep in mind there's nothing magic about the width of the drying rack or number or spacing of rods... could easily be 10" wider with more rods... juss' sayin' 😉
Hey Matt, You do you man. Ignore the trolls, they can get their advice from TikTok and subsequently build junk as a result. You are not building adirondak chairs with dimensional lumber, you are doing carpentry at the NEXT Level.
I have learned so much from your deep dive videos. As a weekend warrior that misses most weekends, I get the most out of my shop time by having all the tricks and details as part of the process instead of having them as part of the learning curve. I thank you so much for making videos like this over the years.
I watched the whole thing to the end of the bitter end. Great stuff. Anyone who would complain about the length has the option to skip through the chapters you provided. If they still need to complain it's probably safe to assume they would gripe if it was 15 mins and 1 second. Haters gonna hate. Whatcha gonna do?
Hey Matt, great tips sprinkled all throughout, as usual. I'm definitely gonna use that uncut waxed backing on double-stick tape! And now that I've seen it, I don't know why I ever did cut it, then spend time picking at the next piece's edge! Also the end-dowel drilling guide was brilliant! Definitely gonna do that one! I have used those MacGyver'd washers at 'the end of the end of the bitter end', cut from milk jug or distilled water jug plastic, HDPE (high density polyethylene, the kind with a '2' inside the recycling pyramid mark on the bottom). I don't have those punches, so I started by drilling the hole, clamping the plastic between two pieces of scrap to cut a clean edge, then used scissors to cut the outer diameter. I prefer them over the store-bought, since I can custom-cut the sizes to suit my project. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one Bill. Never thought of milk jugs for their plastic but have cannibalized many a plastic bucket! BTW if you're creating a wish list for an upcoming birthday you might add a set of those leather/gasket punches to it. I don't use mine a lot but sure am glad I have 'em when I need 'em.😎
Keep at it Professor Matt! Do not worry about those ugly trolls. Their hate does not lessen your detailed content. (Their inability to turn NLC off is not your on you.) Every time I view your latest NLC video: I learn. Your tips on working w white oak & fiberglass rods are worth the view alone!
Great video. Instructive and interesting. As always, I really appreciate the extra time you take to show each step and, on occasion, each misstep. Fixing unexpected problems is part of every project, and those who omit this are doing their viewers a disservice, in my opinion. However long or short your videos might be, we will be there to watch them. For sure. Thanks again for sharing a video and a job well done. 👍👍
Thx Jerry! Speaking of unexpected problems, I assume you noticed how pilot holes and an extra clamp prevented more unexpected problems while driving pocket screws? 🤯😃
The trolls that negatively comment on your content and knowledge sharing are the ones that skipped basic math or basket weaving in high school and dropped out, now working a McDonalds. Never apologize for your style, it WORKS!!!
Absolutely amazed with the time and detail you put into this and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us...seriously is next level! I hope one day I can build something like this - newbie here with very few tools but I want to learn so my boyfriend doesn't have to do everything 😅
This video didn't feel like it was over an hour. I am planning to make similar drying racks, but on drawer slides that pull out from under an upper cabinet above my washer/dryer. The use of fiberglass electric fence poles is genius!! And I appreciate the tips on how to cut and drill them. 3/8" fence poles appear to be readily available and inexpensive at Tractor Supply stores. I wonder if that would be rigid enough, or if it would be better to source 1/2" online. Thank you! Keep up the amazing detailed content!
Thanks for sayin'! FWIW I was planning to use 3/8" fiberglass rods but the only 3/8" ones 'they' had were dingy gray so I went with 1/2" mostly because they were white even though they were a bit overkill.
Another awesome session. Some might say this is a long video, but it is still densely packed with unique processes, tips and techniques not easily found elsewhere.
Hey Matt,, might I suggest that you could save a drill change and one complete step, if you add the depth of the rod socket, 1/2", to the thickness of the template, 1/4", touch down on the template with the drill bit, establish zero, set the depth stop at 3/4" and drill away, no charge Sarge🤙🤙 and you know I your biggest fan!!
Thanks for the suggestion Paul! Crazy as it seems I've never once used the 'establish zero' feature on a drillpress. I had to go out to the shop after reading your comment just to see if it was possible. It is. I don't trust its accuracy enough to follow the sequence you suggest because the final depth of those holes is quite critical but will keep your suggestion in mind for applications where the efficiency and sequence would save time & steps. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry no worries,, my drill press is no milling machine either so I generally check the hole depth after the first socket is drilled, and adjust if necessary.
Could you have put pins in the ends of the top of the support arms instead of the side stops? Or would they be too difficult to align when setting the rack down on the arms? Love the design and it was worth watching the whole thing and learn some fantastic tips. Also shop layout even though not mentioned. 😄😁
Good eye for design! I probably would have used pins instead of tabs if it were for my own use because it would be more 'elegant' but figured the tabs would be more obvious/intuitive for the wide range of people from kids to grandparents to relatives who will be using these particular racks.
Good luck with the build if & when. FWIW my client said "I love them... you could SELL these to others" and already asked me to make one for a daughter in law. 😎
I appreciate you including the mistakes because it shows how an expert can rectify mistakes. Might be embarrassing to include, but it'll give other people ideas on how to fix their own mistakes. We're human. If we didn't make mistakes, life would be too easy, right? Could you use pins instead of those white stops in the drying rack arms to hold them in place when being used? I think it would look more elegant to not have those clips
Pins would definitely be a more elegant solution for securing support arms but I opted for tabs out of concern unfamiliar users might damage the rack from improper use.
The only video I did showing that is an exclusive Patron Only one. Patronage can be very inexpensive but I can tell you, all it takes to sharpen a putty knife is to clamp a smooth file in a vise and, standing a putty knife vertically on edge on the file, drag it towards yourself a few times to raise small burrs on the edge. Literally takes only seconds... unless the puttyknife is really worn with rounded edge and corners, that is.
Sorry? Plans are only available in Imperial measurements. Should be easy enough to extrapolate to adapt to metric hardware and materials though, with or without plans.
Great video, I watched it all, thanks. I wonder i your CO2 laser would cut those small washers you showed at the end, and do it safely? Not all plastics are safe for laser cutting - was HDPE?
Not sure what plastics are safe to cut, only that cast acrylic is and plexiglas ISN'T. I do know it's prudent to learn ahead of time to prevent creating noxious/poisonous fumes though...
You mean - acrylic is safe to cut on a laser machine. You can also cut nylon or HDPE. Plastics containing chlorine (halogens) are not safe though - e.g., PVC, artificial leather. You may cut it, but one of the components of the gases being produced in the process is Cl/HCl, which will ruin your machine (it will cause rust inside your expensive machine very quickly). Other materials to avoid: fiberglass, carbon fiber, and epoxy/phenolic resins (all will emit noxious fumes). ABS will emit cyanide gas. Polycarbonate cuts poorly, and HDPE may melt excessively.
Hi Matt, Please don't change your style. The detailed explanations may be lost on people who already know how to do this stuff, but for those trying to learn, I have found no other creators who even come close. The chapter list is a great way to allow people to focus on the parts they are less clear on. Thanks again. PS. I'm always here at the end of the end of the bitter end because of the tips.
agreed!
Yes, discerning viewers want Matt's longer tutorial with lots of tips tricks and Dakota dry humor!
yes indeed.
Matt, there will always be people who criticize your work, no matter the caliber. Keep being you and pay no mind to the critics. Can I encourage you to not even mention the critics/trolls? They don't deserve your time and it detracts from your content. Keep up the good work.
Matt, never stop. I love every second of each video you produce. The knowledge you share with us is priceless. Thank you.
You're too kind, Mike... thank you! At close to 2 full hours in length, the next NLC video is going to have plenty of seconds to love so I hope you don't change your opinion of this type of video/content. 😉😃
I wish Matt Jackson was the quality control supervisor of all manufacturing. 😂
Ignore the trolls. I watch your videos because of the amount of information you provide. Keep them coming. Nice job.
I am always a end of the end of the end viewer on Next Level Carpentry videos. One of the most informative channels on CZcams!!!
Thanks for letting me know... I appreciate hearing that more than you likely realize!
anyone who criticizes the length of this video simply does not get the concept of this channel. "next level" means that this is going to be different. We, your loyal viewers, appreciate all of the detail.
Yes, we do!
Just fixed my kid's toy car with that medium starbond glue - took less than a minute and she was rolling again - useful for all sorts of things :)
Their Medium Flexible CA is up to 4x stronger than regular CA and has become my go-to for most every application...
Never change! You're one of the best I subscribe to! Thank you again sir!
I am a retired 67 year old . Wood working is my hobby. I watch CZcams videos read books and magazines. Subscribed to your channel sometime ago. Never have i learned so much useful information in 1 hour 20 minutes in my life. Thank you. 1:15:37
Matt, another fantastic video. In fact I’m glad you shared this one this morning as I am planning on starting a new project in the workshop this afternoon and was contemplating how to replicate several pieces that would match exactly. The template and router wasn’t in my original thought process, but you’ve solved my problem. Going to take the time to make a few templates as I begin. I always enjoy your projects and appreciate the time, effort and energy you put into creating these videos to share your ideas, knowledge and techniques.
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one. Best of luck with template making and on the project as a whole. FWIW I've found infinitely more possibilities than restrictions where templates are concerned over the years and suspect you'll see the benefit on more and more projects as you make the paradigm shift away from direct layout and fabrication.
Great tip at the end. I use a leather punch that adds holes to belts when sewing. I will need to get one that can get to half inch.
Love the homemade nylon washer technique
McGyver at his best, right?
Yep. Mama wants one of these. Thanks for posting, Matt.
LOL... what Mamma wants, Mamma gets... for Christmas? Have fun with the build! Keep in mind there's nothing magic about the width of the drying rack or number or spacing of rods... could easily be 10" wider with more rods... juss' sayin' 😉
Hey Matt, You do you man. Ignore the trolls, they can get their advice from TikTok and subsequently build junk as a result. You are not building adirondak chairs with dimensional lumber, you are doing carpentry at the NEXT Level.
stop apologizing for being a badass, we wouldnt be here if we didnt love this badassery.
I have learned so much from your deep dive videos. As a weekend warrior that misses most weekends, I get the most out of my shop time by having all the tricks and details as part of the process instead of having them as part of the learning curve. I thank you so much for making videos like this over the years.
I watched the whole thing to the end of the bitter end. Great stuff.
Anyone who would complain about the length has the option to skip through the chapters you provided. If they still need to complain it's probably safe to assume they would gripe if it was 15 mins and 1 second.
Haters gonna hate. Whatcha gonna do?
Hey Matt, great tips sprinkled all throughout, as usual. I'm definitely gonna use that uncut waxed backing on double-stick tape! And now that I've seen it, I don't know why I ever did cut it, then spend time picking at the next piece's edge! Also the end-dowel drilling guide was brilliant! Definitely gonna do that one! I have used those MacGyver'd washers at 'the end of the end of the bitter end', cut from milk jug or distilled water jug plastic, HDPE (high density polyethylene, the kind with a '2' inside the recycling pyramid mark on the bottom). I don't have those punches, so I started by drilling the hole, clamping the plastic between two pieces of scrap to cut a clean edge, then used scissors to cut the outer diameter. I prefer them over the store-bought, since I can custom-cut the sizes to suit my project. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one Bill. Never thought of milk jugs for their plastic but have cannibalized many a plastic bucket! BTW if you're creating a wish list for an upcoming birthday you might add a set of those leather/gasket punches to it. I don't use mine a lot but sure am glad I have 'em when I need 'em.😎
Happy to see Inspire Woodcrafts tape tip!
Keep at it Professor Matt! Do not worry about those ugly trolls. Their hate does not lessen your detailed content. (Their inability to turn NLC off is not your on you.) Every time I view your latest NLC video: I learn. Your tips on working w white oak & fiberglass rods are worth the view alone!
Your comment just made my day... thank you!
Awesome stuff, as usual! Love all the tips and tricks that you pack into your builds!
Another great video Matt. Thanks. I like the details and the mishaps and how you get around them. Great insight. Learn something almost every time.
Thanks for sayin', Scott... much appreciated!
Great video. Instructive and interesting. As always, I really appreciate the extra time you take to show each step and, on occasion, each misstep. Fixing unexpected problems is part of every project, and those who omit this are doing their viewers a disservice, in my opinion.
However long or short your videos might be, we will be there to watch them. For sure.
Thanks again for sharing a video and a job well done.
👍👍
Thx Jerry! Speaking of unexpected problems, I assume you noticed how pilot holes and an extra clamp prevented more unexpected problems while driving pocket screws? 🤯😃
Yup. ✔@@NextLevelCarpentry
The trolls that negatively comment on your content and knowledge sharing are the ones that skipped basic math or basket weaving in high school and dropped out, now working a McDonalds. Never apologize for your style, it WORKS!!!
Absolutely amazed with the time and detail you put into this and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us...seriously is next level! I hope one day I can build something like this - newbie here with very few tools but I want to learn so my boyfriend doesn't have to do everything 😅
This video didn't feel like it was over an hour. I am planning to make similar drying racks, but on drawer slides that pull out from under an upper cabinet above my washer/dryer. The use of fiberglass electric fence poles is genius!! And I appreciate the tips on how to cut and drill them. 3/8" fence poles appear to be readily available and inexpensive at Tractor Supply stores. I wonder if that would be rigid enough, or if it would be better to source 1/2" online. Thank you! Keep up the amazing detailed content!
Thanks for sayin'! FWIW I was planning to use 3/8" fiberglass rods but the only 3/8" ones 'they' had were dingy gray so I went with 1/2" mostly because they were white even though they were a bit overkill.
this project what i was waiting for a long time for you to do. thanks allot
Excellent video, I really appreciate all your tips and tricks.
Lol at “insta google twit face”.
Outstanding! Much enjoyment! Semper Fi
Happy Thanksgiving... hope it's extra special now that you're 'back'!
Best,
Matt
I love your vids!! Thanks for sharing your processes
Nice vidio. Keep showing the details.
Another awesome session. Some might say this is a long video, but it is still densely packed with unique processes, tips and techniques not easily found elsewhere.
Thanks for sayin twwtb... much appreciated!
You are the best!! Iwish u lived in my town I can hire you
I clearly have been watching your videos too long......because, when I saw those off cuts, I thought to myself, "even the off cuts are pretty cool."
Sounds like thoughts like that are contagious! 🙃
I love the systematic approach you use. Nice video.
Love the long form format - ignore the cocaine addled squirrel heads! 😊
Hey Matt,, might I suggest that you could save a drill change and one complete step, if you add the depth of the rod socket, 1/2", to the thickness of the template, 1/4", touch down on the template with the drill bit, establish zero, set the depth stop at 3/4" and drill away, no charge Sarge🤙🤙 and you know I your biggest fan!!
Thanks for the suggestion Paul! Crazy as it seems I've never once used the 'establish zero' feature on a drillpress. I had to go out to the shop after reading your comment just to see if it was possible. It is. I don't trust its accuracy enough to follow the sequence you suggest because the final depth of those holes is quite critical but will keep your suggestion in mind for applications where the efficiency and sequence would save time & steps.
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry no worries,, my drill press is no milling machine either so I generally check the hole depth after the first socket is drilled, and adjust if necessary.
My eyesight is more of an issue than the machine's capability so I compensate, like you do to help assure accurate results. 😟😃
Very cool, thank you!
Interesting, enjoyable, entertaining, educational, and fun to watch!!! Thanks Matt!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Could you have put pins in the ends of the top of the support arms instead of the side stops? Or would they be too difficult to align when setting the rack down on the arms? Love the design and it was worth watching the whole thing and learn some fantastic tips. Also shop layout even though not mentioned. 😄😁
Good eye for design!
I probably would have used pins instead of tabs if it were for my own use because it would be more 'elegant' but figured the tabs would be more obvious/intuitive for the wide range of people from kids to grandparents to relatives who will be using these particular racks.
TRUE. really like it. I'm thinking of making a couple for gifts.@@NextLevelCarpentry
Good luck with the build if & when. FWIW my client said "I love them... you could SELL these to others" and already asked me to make one for a daughter in law. 😎
I appreciate you including the mistakes because it shows how an expert can rectify mistakes. Might be embarrassing to include, but it'll give other people ideas on how to fix their own mistakes. We're human. If we didn't make mistakes, life would be too easy, right?
Could you use pins instead of those white stops in the drying rack arms to hold them in place when being used? I think it would look more elegant to not have those clips
Pins would definitely be a more elegant solution for securing support arms but I opted for tabs out of concern unfamiliar users might damage the rack from improper use.
Matt, would you put a link to the video where you sharpen the putty knife, if there is one?
The only video I did showing that is an exclusive Patron Only one. Patronage can be very inexpensive but I can tell you, all it takes to sharpen a putty knife is to clamp a smooth file in a vise and, standing a putty knife vertically on edge on the file, drag it towards yourself a few times to raise small burrs on the edge. Literally takes only seconds... unless the puttyknife is really worn with rounded edge and corners, that is.
the site where you sell the plans display the price in Euros, so I have to ask: are the plans imperial-only or do they also have metric sizes?
Sorry? Plans are only available in Imperial measurements. Should be easy enough to extrapolate to adapt to metric hardware and materials though, with or without plans.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you! The shop interface didn't specify either way.
Cheers from Hungary!
Great video, I watched it all, thanks. I wonder i your CO2 laser would cut those small washers you showed at the end, and do it safely? Not all plastics are safe for laser cutting - was HDPE?
Not sure what plastics are safe to cut, only that cast acrylic is and plexiglas ISN'T. I do know it's prudent to learn ahead of time to prevent creating noxious/poisonous fumes though...
You mean - acrylic is safe to cut on a laser machine. You can also cut nylon or HDPE.
Plastics containing chlorine (halogens) are not safe though - e.g., PVC, artificial leather. You may cut it, but one of the components of the gases being produced in the process is Cl/HCl, which will ruin your machine (it will cause rust inside your expensive machine very quickly).
Other materials to avoid: fiberglass, carbon fiber, and epoxy/phenolic resins (all will emit noxious fumes). ABS will emit cyanide gas. Polycarbonate cuts poorly, and HDPE may melt excessively.
Sir, don’t change one iota of your style. Keep pressing forward! It’s great being back home for a while. Semper Fi
Welcome back home Mr Mercado! Glad to know you're safely back on your own turf!
OOHRAH! Semper Fi
Why not counter sink your screws and eliminate the scratches?
Personally, I prefer the look of 'oval head' screws over flathead screws and compensating for them isn't an issue... but that's just me.
Philosophical question:
How come air-drying actually works, but air-guitaring is just pretend?
i'm told by accomplished musicians that it's impossible to tune a wet t-shirt.
20 mins? Anything more than a short exceeds the average attention span
Not a troll to wish for a shorter edit.
Or you could just pick the chapters you want to watch.
Left out key information! You didn’t point out the middle of the middle. Unsubscribe. 😅
I also neglected the beginning of the beginning of the beginning... for SHAME!! It's a wonder anyone still subscribes, isn't it?! 🤯🤣
where did you get the fiberglass rods?
www.fleetfarm.com/detail/geotek-5-ft-fiberglass-electric-fence-post/0000000079766?Ntt=fiberglass%20fence%20post