Make Your Own Custom Trim
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 21. 02. 2020
- Making impeccable trim in a small shop is not impossible... see the process and tools I use to make 150lf of custom profile base in hard maple for a client project. See how Black Nitride Steel knives ground by Tim Yunger at Custom Moulding Knives spinning in a W&H Moulder produce a flawless finish effortlessly.
Here's virtual warehouse containing a whole bunch of stuff I use and recommend all on one Influencer's Page at Amazon.
www.amazon.com/shop/nextlevel...
If you need something on this list and can't find it locally please shop using a link here... everything on the page is the same low online price you expect but it 'encourages' Mr Bezos to share an infinitesimally small portion of his profit which helps support lil' ol' me here at Next Level Carpentry... best win-win deal I know of!đđ
Want Official NLC shirts, signs, mugs or posters? Go here: teespring.com/stores/next-lev... because, unlike Amazon, you can't find it ANYwhere else! Thanks... it great to know viewers like you are out there spreading the word about this Channel!
Like what you saw and heard about knives from Custom Moulding Knives? Visit the CMK site here: www.customouldingknives.com/ and reach out to Tim next time you're in the market for knives for making 'impeccable trim' of your own... and tell him NLC sent you?
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With your support and encouragement I continue to work to build Next Level Carpentry to be the best it can be. Thank you! - Jak na to + styl
Whatâs the purpose of creating that cut in the back of the boards?
The relief profile in the back of mouldings like this baseboard is call 'backout'.
The main purpose is so that the top edge of the baseboard will fit tighter to the wall because many irregularities on the wall itself won't interfere with the back of the trim like it would if the back was left flat. Another benefit is that it takes some strength out of the piece so it can follow any contour in the wall and make the trim more stable and less likely to cup or twist. The same applies to casing, chair rails, etc; pretty much anything that gets applied to flat surfaces. The wider the piece, the more important it becomes too.
The honesty of good technique, pride and physical work. Matt you are a glowing light in an otherwise dark world where shonky schemes are created to generate wealth for a few rather than a real contribution like yours to everyone.
Pleased that your channel is about great technique, not how many expensive tools you can show off. Thank you.
I can't even begin to tell you how badly I want to get back into woodworking and open a shop again. Watching you is a real inspiration.
I have 26 years as a custom cabinet maker. I bought the shop fox molder around 20 years ago and yes perfect imitation of the wh. But at the time a 1000 cheaper. I have used it to make and match custom mitered doors and trim for many jobs and many other cabinrt shops in my area. One of the best investments i ever made in my shop
You, sir, are a wonderful craftsman and teacher.
I can appreciate the effort and extent that you go to in explaining the finer points and some of the mundane but nonetheless important details that are often associated with this kind of work.
I keep tuning in because this channel pertains to the very real and practical applications of carpentry. Youâre not just placating to a crowd that wants to see gimmicky and popular woodworking project videos designed to generate views rather than inform.
Keep it up.
"placating to a crowd"... man, do I hear you there Loser Mobile! Can't believe how irksome those 'gimmicky' videos are to me... but hey, CZcams is more 'show business' than tradeschool so more power to 'em. Your comment really does help me focus on the mission statement for Next Level Carpentry and resist the temptation to do a 'live edge river table' and slap together a massive dysfunctional workbench from 2x6's and pocket screws that 'you can build in a weekend'đđđđ Best, Matt
Matt I have to tell you that I really enjoy your videos. I usually learn something new every time I watch and that's not easy for someone who has been wood working for 40 years. What I really like about your videos is they are original. Not another video showing me how to build the "Ultimate Workbench" or the "Last Table Saw Sled I'll ever need". Did you ever notice that when one of these wood working videos comes out, they are followed by everyone else doing the same project with their own little twist. Seems like no one has any original ideas of their own, but then there is Matt. Anyways I'm rambling, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Rhutt rhoh... and here I was planning to do a Epoxy River Table build using the new Mallet I made to build a new Ultimate Crosscut Sled using the Worlds Best Pushstick! đ€đđđ BTW your comment made my day Scott... honestly! It's so reassuring to hear when I see view numbers skyrocketing for all those trendy video topics and some of mine languish with all their original content. Knowing it matters to engaged viewers like yourself is a UUUGE part of the motivation to stay the course. Thank you sincerely! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry LOL forgot about the push stick.
@@scottgutauckis4615 I'm a bit hypocritical with the push stick thing since that is one bandwagon I jumped on but my motivations were sincere because I think so many competing videos display such an inferior item. That's my story and I'm sticking to itđđBest, Matt
You forgot cutting boards and chess tables.....đđđđ
you are pure craftmanship !!
I too really enjoyed this video, what I wouldn't give to be your cameraman/carpentry apprentice. sharing your knowledge and years of experience is truly a gift. thank you.
This guy Is a stud. A polished studd
Thanks Matt, as always, we love what you do. Keep it coming!
Excellent job Matt. The result is Next Level.
Great video! People like yourself give a guy great knowledge. Thanks
Nicely done. You are absolutely correct about the better quality.
Wowsa! Your woodworking approach is a lifestyle. đ
This is the first time I have seen someone make molding totally awesome and I can see where you would save money by making your own molding!
All your videos are awesome and informative thanks keep them coming pl
OMG Matt my garage is 2 car LONG too!! 40' long...... The reason I got this house lol, I thought it would be a perfect shop for my price range
I love to see people like you inspiring others and spending the extra time and care to make the most out of the job you take on. I think alot of people in this trade are lacking that, i see quiet a few people rush rush rush and dont care enough to do the job right just to get a quick buck.
Awesome work, thank you for the video
Thank you for everything you do
That W&H can take some pretty wide tooling. Looks good. Thanks for the demo. Cheers, David
i like the cutter sleeve, very nice!
That is a quality machine. It will be around long after we are all gone! I originally saw a moulder, probably a Williams and Hussey, on This Old House about 30 years ago when Bob Villa was the host. They needed a moulding to match one in an old house and making it was the only option. I thought it was very interesting then and still do.
Matt, I have a 13" Grizzly molder/planer with which I am creating all of the door and window casings and baseboards for our 2-story, 1910-vintage home in Virginia. These duplicate exactly the originals. And I am doing it out of my 10x16 shop/shed in the back yard. I can certainly relate to this video. Thanks for posting it.
Excellent video as always!
That is a neat little molding machine. I have never seen one that small. I have only seen and used larger machines that are combined with with drum/profile sanders. So that it was all completed in one feed motion. It was a cobbled together system, built in house. But the setup time was low, and I later improved it while working there. By setting up common stop sizes for knifes and assemblies and jigs for knife setup and blade drop in. So that we could do most of the setup outside the machine before install.
It's a great perfectly detailed video.
Great Video! Thank you kindly!
Fantastic result and a great testimony for American Made quality & pride in workmanship. Thanks for sharing this process... I'm about to begin working on custom base for my home (which I purchased to renovate for my wife & I) and find myself wishing I had a shaper like this as I will be using my table saw & router setup.
SweeeeeT!!!!
You posted a video !!!
I have not watch it yet.... but knowing that itâs out there will make for a great Saturday! Canât wait!!!!â€ïžâ€ïžâ€ïž
Join us if you can a 7:30pm MST...
Sounds to me like you need a road trip to VT to visit the factory where those knife blades are made :)
Yes!!!!! You owe it to everyone's lives you have influenced!!!! Please!!!
I love your videos. I only wish I could have watched these 30 years ago with my grandfather. He never had the quality of tools you have, but I learned a good bit. Enough to know the value of the tools and the education. He would have loved them as well...
I have the identical machine to yours but upgraded with 2 kits from W+H the multi pass kit and the variety speed drive. Cheaper than replacing it for the newer model. Works a peach!
Outstanding job on that molding, that wood is beautiful and I bet the grain pops when you stain it.
Nice looking machine and finished product.
Love this
That's a pretty cool little machine. Nice work.
I particularly enjoyed this one, Matt. Your words at the end describing the efficiency and logistics of your own one-man operation were especially inspiring and meaningful đ
Thanks for lettin' me know Connor. I try to communicate that videos here show activity from an actual profitable carpentry business which is a far cry from videos solely for CZcams's sake. Knowing you found inspiration is meaningful to me too! Best, Matt
Looking at the back side of the trim moldings in my house, they are made of multiple pieces laminated together before they were shaped. Having trim molding that is made of one solid piece would have been nice when we put down wood flooring recently. The length of twp of them were 11', and when they were accidentally picked up with the back side facing up, they started to break at a one of the seams.
I like the content. Waiting on the video off those out feed stands.
I love your channel and your knowledge base
Thanks for sayin' Daniel... stay tuned for more? đ Best, Matt
Good show. I really enjoy your channel.
Great detail.
Reading your answers to serious questions in the comments section takes your videos to the next level.
Thanks for that Mark... I appreciate it when viewers take the time to read those comments because videos are long enough without trying to address every question that might come up but I want viewers to get meaningful and useful information from each video... best part is that I frequently learn things from viewers through comments too.
Best, Matt
Back for a second pass at this one as well! The W&H machine looks like the ticket. When I get ready to revisit my process, I will consider getting one of those machines... I either need to get rid of a machine or move... I'm completely out of space! Thanks again for sharing your wisdom, Matt.
Glad you re-visited this video too... it's easy to visualize sticks of TremWedge sliding out of it instead of this baseboard, right? You might recall I mentioned a peculiar disdain for W&H so Shop Fox's machines, basically a knock-off, have some merit. I'll be glad to explain THAT oddity to you any time... ahhh, the stories we have to tell, right? đŻđ
For custom molding knives I recommend the services of Connecticut Saw and tool as well. Great knives and sharpening services
Matt, thank you so much for all your help in sharing your knowledge with us plebeians that are working within technology, finance, the arts, government, law enforcement, healthcare, or any other trade that isnât carpentry. Watching your videos has helped me take that next step (in attaining the ânext level...â) building out my wood working shop and taking on the projects that have seemed so daunting that they simply wouldnât get done, or worse... force me on a trip to Ikea đš Whatâs interesting is that your instruction has made me realize that the quality and craftsmanship that goes into construction and finish carpentry, while expensive and time consuming, offers value that far exceeds the investment. The utilitarian nature of the goal of building pales in comparison to the satisfaction of reaching levels of self-actualization most need to find a high priest on a mountain top to reach. You make a neophyte like myself feel like a journeyman upon completion of my home remodel projects. And having binged watched your video series allowing me to share in your video production journey allows the added benefit of providing your viewers that old dogs like us can learn new tricks đ Seriously amazing transformation in your electronic journey. I have a Next Level Carpentry t-shirt on the way to my home, and you better trust that I will wear it proudly. Best, Joe
Thanks for your kind words and perspective Joseph... much appreciated! I've hit a bit of a wall in my 'electronic journey' but am working hard to move past it and onto new frontiers. Hope you like the t-shirt and others recognize its significance on your journey to bigger and better! Best, Matt
Iâve bought shaper knives from Tim as well. Professional and very well done. I sent a small sample of moulding and it matched perfectly. Iâll buy all my custom knives from him.
I'm not surprised in the least by your endorsement of Tim's performance to your needs William... always top notch results. The fact he's a great guy to do business with is icing on the proverbial cake IMHO! Best, Matt
Great Videođ
Awesome videos.
As always your videos and techniques are impressive. Thank you. I assume that this job you are completing with Maple for base boards is a high end custom home? Would love to see a completed photo. Great workđ
a smart presentation for quality woodworking production. have you done a review on best the glues everyone should know about.
Hi Matt. Kept food too long in the Frig. Started Molding so through it out. Green, Green they say on the far side of the hill. LOL. Enjoying the Molding Demo.
WHAT... you let a perfect opportunity for a molding video pass you by? Oh well, there's always next time! Glad you liked the video... Best, Matt
Already subbed, but this video would have been the type that would have led me too do so. My woodworking business will be 1 month old next week, and I greatly appreciate that you do what you do!
Congrats on starting up your own woodworking business... with proper structure and hard work it can be a very fulfilling and rewarding occupation. Thanks for being subscribed and watching that's what helps make Next Level carpentry a viable business and I appreciate it! Best, Matt
I find your channel, of all the woodworking channels I watch, to be one of the most professional with the least B.S. I do have one question though about making/matching custom trim. I completely understand the need to duplicate trim from an older house where the original trim is no longer available. It seems to me that you spend a fair bit of time, and money to get it right. How willing are most customers to pay the price for perfectly matching trim? Seems that in my world, people don't care enough about perfection to go to, or pay for someone to go to these lengths. I definitely admire your attention to detail. Thank you for sharing your work!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I think we live in the same world where 'people don't care enough... to pay for...' duplicate custom trim. For that reason I seek out clients who do. They're a rare breed but efforts to sift through crowds of potential clients and find those who 'get it' is well worth it. These discerning folks understand what it takes/costs to do 'next level' work and, as long as they're dealt with with integrity and honesty, will wait in line literally for years and gladly pay for stuff that's no longer available or is completely new and one of a kind. I encourage other carpenters to position themselves in this rather rare niche, outside of the crowded low bid' environment of slapdash workmanship to be profitable and into a place where they choose clients specifically, often turning away more work than they take on.
It probably seems routine for you, but I really enjoyed seeing how this was done. I wouldâve liked to have seen how you stain & finish the trim as well... watching you install would be cool too. I know that installing baseboard is simple, but I bet you have some tricks and techniques we could all learn from. From loading it on the truck to putting it into its final destination a lot of care must be taken to do a quality job. I want to see it all! Thanks for breaking it down for us!
If ONLY I had a film crew and video production team Steve, I'd love to show all of that... and then some. Someday maybe? In the meantime, thanks for watching and commenting here! Best, Matt
I had some impeccable trim once. She now owns all the trim... and the rest of the house.
In my business I do a fair amount of historic restoration. It goes without saying the type of mouldings I have to match. Since I don't own a shaper I take portions of available mouldings, cut out the profiles that work and reassemble. While not perfect that method has been acceptable. I'm waiting for the project that will justify purchasing a shaper and having appropriate cutter heads made! I like the looks of that W&H you have there.
In the words of Scott Wadsworth, "keep up the good work!".
KLM; you say " I'm waiting for the project that will justify purchasing a shaper and having appropriate cutter heads". Do you actually mean a shaper machine or a machine that shapes? It would take an actual shaper of considerable size to make the crown you see here: czcams.com/video/zlHYWUyYJho/video.html but it's very do-able to make mouldings this size with the compact and powerful W&H. I also believe it's far less dangerous in use.
Where R.O.I. is concerned I feel it will pay for itself on the first few projects. One way or another the client may end up paying $10lf for a moulding. If I can make it for $5lf it doesn't take too long a run to re-fill your piggy bank. And many/most mouldings aren't available in unusual species and aren't available at any price. Remember: it can make arched and elliptical moulding that match the straight run profile too. You do have to specify your intention to make curved moulding when ordering knives because they have to put the inside of the profile (which is usually the deepest cut) on the end of the knife away from the height adjustment posts which, as I mentioned is not standard practice. 'preciate the words of Mr Wadsworth! Best, Matt
Another great video! Does grain direction need to be considered when running the stick through the moulder?
Couldn't punch the tumbs up at the requested time because of the '' time difference '' but punched the hell out of it after seeing the video.đđđđđđđ Well done Matt.
The fact that you liked it enough to punch it at all is what matters most thank you! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt, also the fact that you give a kind respons to so much subscribers every time is very much appriciated and not only by me i guess. You are and have one unique channel. All the best , Rafđ
@@rafvdp6391 you're quite welcome Raf... anything you can do to spread the word about this channel is greatly appreciated too! Best, Matt
Roughly @12:10 you show a tape method of 'indexing' the depth of cut arm. Maybe a simple mark on the shank of the handle with a Sharpie, and a small piece of tap on the surface where the current tape is attached, would give a slightly more 'precise' way of indexing that arm? Just a suggestion for those that may have a similar situation with nearly any device that has an older indexing method.
Would you look at the logosol line of machines for your upgrade? Also square knife blocks are banned in Australia!!
Hi Matt! When will you resume the completion of the pallet wood door project? I love all your work, it is so inspiring.
Soon, very soon... relatively speaking, of courseđđ. With any luck I'll be doing the actual work and filming this first week of October 2020 and if things go well Episode #8 where I infill the center panel will follow the upcoming Flex Duct Hanger Build video to be released next. Thanks for watching and commenting... Best, Matt
Love the content. How do you setup and stain that much in your shop? I'm assuming you have some kind of rack system
great video Matt. Love your last name.
Hey 'brother', glad to make your acquaintance! From one Jackson to another I'm it's good to know you like the video... thanks for watching... Best, Matt
Please do a video on your out feed stands.
What a beautifully simple machine, will the unboxing be a new W&H ?
Nice content and superior quality ethic. Take a look at InterJoin. A cool molding and crown molding system. I don't work for them or associated with them by the way.
Great setup you made there. I'm looking for one of these machines If you know of any let me know
Great job as usual Get some rest :)
How do you handle the off gassing of wood stain?
Can I have your old moulder when you get your new one lol
beautiful work, i have run enough maple thru my planer and joiner to ask the question did you have any tearout ? it all looked perfect.
Hey Larry, I'm always amazed at how the performance of that W&H produces very minimal tearout... on this run there were like 3 blow-outs and those were limited to difficult grain in the first 6" on the ends. Otherwise it was as clean as it looks in the video. I have more issues with tearout from the thickness planer which seems odd with higher cutterhead rpm... go figure. Best, Matt
Do you give any thought to maintenance when making moulding? Some can be cleaned easily, and others are dirt magnets that require special brushes to clean. Get down on your hands & knees and clean some dirty moulding, and you'll get a whole new perspective.
Matt I love your attention to detail. I do have a question about the mobile base you use on your table saw? Can you tell me where you got it and if its custom made , as i suspect, do you recall the plans for building it? The DELTA brand Ive used for a while continues to break the wheel off... Thanks
Thanks Leroy... this video will give you a lot of answers to your question: czcams.com/video/aV1uDDWdyhI/video.html Holler if other questions arise and I'll try to reply... Best, Matt
Did you make the custom sleeves in your cutter library with âCNCâ? đ
Love your channel. Dumb question but what is the reason for the back out profile on the back of the moulding?
Thanks Jack... read comments below where I addressed your question in detail for another viewer. Best, Matt
love your videos I learned so much, but 'god you like to talk' lol, keep them coming and keep talking
Matt...does W&H make a Nozzle for attaching a Dust Collection Hose? And, you can add Variable Speed to your Motor.
The new 206 moulder has a slick built-in DC nozzle and variable speed and multi-pass are available as upgrades... not sure what direction I'll end up going but it's nice to have options. BTW The galvanized 'hood' seen in the video was made with a 4" round fitting/port on it when I bought the machine... I hacked it off way back because it would clog up without active dust collection hooked up. If I had a little more time to prep I would have recreated that 4" port for this video but the 'ready, fire, aim' demands so necessary to produce on CZcams prevented even that... so I showed the world that I can go ghetto with the best of 'em, right?! Best, Matt
What is the purpose for the "back-out profile"??
Danny Herrera I think it supposed to prevent warring but I could be wrong
I believe it establishes clearance behind the molding, allowing for irregularities on the surface itâs being mounted on. The top and bottom edges are all that are touching, ensuring a flush finish
It helps prevent cupping and warping by removing some stress/tension fron the wood. It is also there for airflow between the trim and the surface it is attached to (prevents excessive mositure buildup behind trim which can make the wood warp, twist, cup or excessively expand and contract over time).
@@Handyguy223 Thank you!
@@tubalcain1 You're welcome, happy to help. đ
I've always wondered what is the purpose of the relief area on the back of mouldings and trim. It just looks like a runway for bugs and spiders to me. LOL
It may well be a runway but with trim tight against the wall because of the relief at least you can't see them running! đđđ
Did you serve in the Navy?
Mark, That is a very nice machine tool. Do you like it better then a shaper? You Videos' are Great. They are clear as bell sound. You are a Very Smart Gentleman to Mark. If I were to buy that machine do You have any ideal of the Cost? I know the Cutters are Extra. You do Good Way..
A molder is infinitely better than a shaper making custom moldings IMHO. The molder you see in the video was around $2,500 last time I looked but if you're not producing a lot of molding you can get a knockoff brand for about half. From a business standpoint I pretty well paid off the moulder on the first job I used it on so it's a great investment if you've got much custom molding work to do...
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt You Do a Great Job.
That is a wonderful little moulder, I have never been able to justify owning one, but have always regretted it. Just out of curiosity, what is the maximum width of board that your machine will take ? ( we have some very tall skirting boards in use in UK)
It goes 6" wide and up to 6" thick CrimeVid. BTW the open-sided design allows you to profile the top 6" on a skirting board of any width... a great additional feature IMHO. I think it's rare to justify the initial expense for any single project but I feel like I was $$ ahead by the 3rd decent project... not a bad R.O.I. I think it probably compares to investing in a good bandsaw or similar machine... Best, Matt
Great video! Where can I find designers to design an original trim ?
Check local millwork or cabinet shops Mordi. If you lived close we could talk as making custom trim is one of my favorite projects. BTW have you seen this video: czcams.com/video/ze1yyAb7rUU/video.html it shows a design/style I'm particularly proud of. Keep in mind though that the process isn't inexpensive so be prepared for a disproportionately high cost per foot...
Yes I saw it . How much approx are we talking per lf ?
Do you think the woodmaster planer-moulders compare to the William's and hussey?
They're always compared and both brands have their acolytes Wendi. I personally believe that the output quality from a W&H is noticeably smoother and chatter free. That's what matters most IMHO and if anyone who can produce moulding of the quality you see in this video with a different brand I say more power to them! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you Matt. Love your videos.
no one can see the back face. why we have to do the profile in the back? any special function?
Read comments below... hint: it's not about visibility! Best, Matt
đ
Is there a common purpose for the relief on the back of the molding?
Are you able to get carbide blades for your old machine that would be able to handle the heat better?
It would probably be less costly to just re-sharpen knives a little more often than buy carbide Stacey. Maybe for a long run of something like hickory but in my experience it's not an issue. For someone using the same knives for longer or more projects knives dulling from shallow passes might get to be a problem... Best, Matt
Read comments below where I answer that question in detail...
Matt, Great video! maybe I missed this but I wanted to ask what material do you use for your moldings? And do you have difficulties finding something that's lightweight since it doesn't need to be load bearing?. I'm having trouble finding raw material for trimmings and moldings that is cost effective. seems like in my area the raw material is almost the same cost as pre-made moldings. I'm an amature in the home shop, but have been working in an MDF Molding factory for a few years, so I have access to a 6 spindle CNC Molder, and could make customs knives with a 20min setup no problem, but the raw cost of the lumber is what sets me back. Do you have any tips for finding affordable raw material to use or do you think its more costly to make it myself than to just buy it especially when I have no preference to a specific profile?
I don't think I mentioned this in the video PL739 but your perception is reality: it always costs more for material alone than a similar manufactured moulding. If your goal is cost effectiveness you'll always be $$ ahead by just buying it. The only reason that justifies high material cost is when the profile you're looking for isn't available which was the case when I made this custom base. In these instances it's far less costly to spend a lot more for a few feet to match/replace existing in a home than it is to buy all new moulding to re-do the whole house and still have it match. Make sense? The other time is when you design a custom profile from scratch because then uniqueness justifies it like this: czcams.com/video/ze1yyAb7rUU/video.html
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt, Thanks for your reply. After thinking about it, and seeing what you've done with salvaging pallet wood, I think I can salvage some pallet runners from my day job, where they've just been giving it away. They come as 4x4s so I think after an S4S pass I should be able to get a pretty good sized piece, for multiple rips; and then molding. they only downside is they come in 5ft increments not 8 or 12ft. Any tips for installing such short pieces or does the length not really matter that much? Would you install using square end cuts or would 2 opposing miter cuts create a more seamless transition? Thanks again!
Matt, what is the purpose of the slot on the back of your wood?
That relief is called the 'backout' Ross. It serves two purposes. One; it 'weakens' trim so it has less 'energy' to cup when installed. This is especially useful on wider pieces that can pull away from walls after installed which is more typical of base since it's generally wider. Two: having it means that the top 3/8"~1/2" of the moulding can fit tight to the wall since irregularities in drywall, taping, texture and what have you don't hold the trim away when installed. This is more meaningful on casing where there's almost always need to shift it out of plane with the wall to fit tight to both the jamb and wall. To visualize this just take a piece 1x4 and try to get both edges to fit tight to a wall... then 'back out' the back about 5/64" and notice the difference... hope that helps. BTW it's well worth the extra setup and run time making moulding because installation is so much faster, simpler, less frustrating and more professional. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Very well explained Matt. I learn something new every time I watch your "tutorials". Many thanks.
@@rossmckenzie1854 You're welcome... it's one of those things I've long since quit thinking about but had the same question(s) once upon a time. Curiosity is a great tool for learning and improving! Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry could you just kerf the backside of the trim instead of the cut out?
@@Mrdubomb kerfing the backside of trim only serves one purpose which is to relieve tension in the wood but it's ineffective for providing clearance for irregularities in the wall so it's not the best practice. And when I'm the one installing the trim I always do the full back out because if I don't make it easy on myself no one else is going to do it for međđđBest, Matt
150 feet of molding in 150 minutes? Not bad.
What is that machine under your push sticks?
I don't know what machine you're referring to Allen...
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt: I think he's referring to the Unisaw fence at 16:34.
Great video, as always. Thank you.
@@ericsmith2482 Ahhh... I don't associate that Unifence as a 'machine' but bet you're right on both accounts... thanks! Best, Matt
if you dont plan on using adhesive on the back of the baseboard, then you can skip the step of grooving out the back.
I beg to differ on this.... "grooving out" aka backing out the back of trim was established LONG before the advent or need of using adhesive on the back of baseboard, and notably, for all standing and running trim of any width exceeding about 2". Contrary to what might be popular opinion, the back out is there to act as clearance for irregularities and inconsistencies in existing conditions so trim will lay flat to walls, another necessity in the days before ubiquitous availability/use of caulking to hide gaps created by slapdash carpentry...
@@NextLevelCarpentry hmmm i see. Maybe back in the plaster days but seems irrelevant for todays purposes as drywall is normally pretty flat. I figured it was for adhesive so theres enough clearance for the trim to lay flat against the wall.
@@TheTechGuider Actually IMHO plaster was often BETTER than some current drywall installations when taping is sloppy, walls aren't flat, studs vary in witdh, etc... I constantly rely on the backout to get acceptable results. Maybe you're luckier than I but I wouldn't install trim without the backout. In addition I can't think of a time that I've installed any trim except commercial vinyl base with adhesive... but things vary widely in different areas of the world... I just want viewers to know I personally don't subscribe to your initial comment and want them to know that they are welcome to politely share their viewpoint and perspective as you have. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I am not a trim carpenter, I am a tile setter. To me it just made sense that it's for adhesive. Definitely not saying your wrong. Matter a fact, I believe what you're saying and I am glad I learned something new. Where I live, I work on very old homes. Matter a fact, the job im on now the home was built in 1919. Every plaster wall I ever ripped out, the studs are never in plane and never level, (especially balloon framed homes). I realize the framing doesn't have much bearing on plaster walls, as the plasters would use screeds to make the walls flat. But even with that being said, In my experience, all the new construction homes have been way easier to work with compared to older building methods.
@@TheTechGuider Roger that...
At 13:58... did that piece you cut off kick backwards?
Sure looks like it did Jeffrey but that little flick you see is just an editing apparition where two video segments are melded together in a 'fade' transition. I'm careful with that setup to grab the offcut firmly along with the workpiece after it passes the blade to prevent exactly that: a hard maple javelin shot into my toolboxes! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry oh ok that makes total sense. For what it's worth I wanted to tell you how much my boys and I love your channel. I am planning out some space and we are going to set up our own little wood shop. You've inspired us.
@@jeffreyadams4832 how cool is that?! Enjoy the journey!
Best, Matt
@@jeffreyadams4832 Not sure what the inspiration is from but glad to hear it... I see some great memory-making activities in your future. Do you have any suggestions for a video geared towards your young shop mates? Not sure what would register with kids these days and just might be able to put something together for a younger audience... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I will ask my boys this question when they get home from school today. They will be excited to hear that you asked.
I would have used the DC house to suck the big chunks off the floor.
"Backout Profile" ? If you have the time Matt, what's the reasoning for this? How can you tell I'm a Boot Camp. Oh, yea, just got approved for the Construction loan for the place in Custer. Thanks to you, at the age of 72 I will be doing my own molding. On second thought, you just might get another order.
The backout profile provides clearance for irregularities in surfaces it is being fastened to allowing it to fit tight to walls... it's a bit surprising how helpful even a small back out is in getting professional results with installed Trim...
Sounds like Custer or Bust! đ
You keep saying in your videos the local hard wood supplier if it is woodstock supply how are you able to pick out only the best pices when they wont let you barley even look at the wood
Hey Irvin: A major factor in this reality is that there's people who expect to
always get "prime rib" wood when what they need is "hamburger". Goofy
analogy, I know, but imagine if a butcher allowed customers to pick
through their meat locker and pay hamburger prices for rib eye... there would be nothing left but snouts and hooves in no time.
It's just not feasible for hardwood suppliers to allow customers to 'cherry pick' their inventory... and I'm no different. I'm willing to pay for the grade level of wood I need and then prudently work through what I get by 'luck of the draw' and get the best 'show face' possible for the finished product. I just ordered enough pieces to get the quantity of pieces in 8' & 12' lengths that I need and picked it up. Best, Matt