I like how you ride the bike stock to get a feel for it first 👍 Thanks for that shout out at 3:41!! I wasn't expecting that lol Made my day! Good tip at 7:50 about identifying saboton v1 / v2 controllers!! That's a smart idea at 16:16 to weld the torque arm so it can't pivot!! That's how my Grin Tech torque arm failed, it was able to pivot! I like the build very cool bro and its Big Teedos Bike thats awesome!! Looking forward to the rest of the build! 👍👍
Gonna be Crazy Fast! Rotating the left side throttle forward was easy to get use to for me. I finally removed the front hub motor because my bike was a bit too fast for me! Looks like you well on your way to making a AWD Emonster! The Owner is going to be thrilled! Thanks sir Peace Prospector Tripp
I LOVE this new direction you are going!!! And I'm SUPER HAPPY that you took the project from start to finish.. This looks amazing, what an amazing transformation, . I hope you continue to make videos like this about machines and technology that you often have. Well done, the car is sturdy and has many tangled wires👌
You do what makes you happy. I like your channel. I do you tube stuff myself. Your doing real world builds because blue collar people don't have money for unrealistic over the top everything pretty builds. We need performance and functional bikes. I want to see a trike build for groceries and utility. Everyday workhorse. Most trike don't go fast. Make a bike that can have good utility. Go to work. Pick up supplies long range. Really take the place of a car.
It's nippy up here in the NE. I added a 1000w dd front to a 500w rear geared ecotric bike I bought 6 years ago. A 60v for the front on a back rack and a 52v frame triangle for the back. Super torque from line and hill climbing. With the 2 batteries , 2 33amp controllers I got great range. 30 to 40 miles. My speed was 35mph flat the bike is super heavy. For the winter I went to a 1000w bafang geared with the 60v battery and 33amp controller and took off the front motor because its to much work to take the battery off since I have the frame enclosed with panels. Cant leave the battery outside below 32F NG for battery. The bike goes 38-40mph flat on the one motor and the front comes off the ground easy. I went to 203 and 180 rotors. Waiting for another 500w geared from ALIexpress to put on the front of the bike for more off the line torque. Its a bit lighter and will use a smaller down tube battery. A torque arm bolted to the caliper mount is best. You need a torque are that will actually hold the wheel on if in the worst case scenario the dropout breaks. For the front I use steel forks. You can find steel spring suspension forks. They put them on the cheap fat tire bikes.
Great idea welding the 2 parts of the torque arm together, I made my own torque arms for the rear hub motor on mine, but it would be tricky to do the same for the front forks, so I like what you done there, good thinking mate.
You are putting a lot of trust in those fork dropouts. I’ve seen several times on endless sphere were the drop outs of the suspension fork Snaped off from hub motors. Typically a solid non-functioning fork made of steel is the only option for front hubs. Even those can break which I’ve seen once and it was only a 350 W geared hub motor. But yeah, super risky putting that heavy hub motor on that cheap suspension fork. Hopefully the owner of that Bike doesn’t try to ride off-road. Stay safe my friend! ✌️✌️✌️
Hi my friend, yeah agreed from what I learned when building my custom ebike these type of front forks are usually said to be good for around 250 watt with one torque arm installed but under greater torque stress from a hub like this 2000 watt the alluminum dropouts have been known to sometimes crack just something to be aware of just keep an eye on them, but if they are straight steel they will just bend not ideal still but slightly safer under more torque from bigger hub motors like this, as for those washers for the rotors maybe you could of dremelled them down slightly to fit in against that recess/taper but you would think they would supply the correct size washers or have an after market all in one spacer to account for this issue! :) @@E-bikeguy
@@tjrcukForks are cheap...ride em til they crack or dont. My stock 2010 Trek 3700 front fork held up one year so far with 1000W hub motor with no signs of stress. I think people dont fit their hubs wheels properly...not running a spacer, too wide hub, etc. THAT will break your dropouts and your suspension fork wont even travel properly making it even more rough on the dropouts. If me dropping 10 feet of kilter onto rocks doesnt break my fork, I cant see some rotation doing it either. Depends on the fork and power level obviously, but in general, MTB forks of any decent quality can handle a lot of abuse.
@@AaronHendu Always good to hear other peoples experiences on what size hub motor they have on there front forks of course it is just depending on the quality of forks and the welds themselves to what they can take mine has a slightly bigger than 250 watt front hub and has been fine to so far just what i was reading at the time i installed my custom kit.
I like the fact that you welded the torque arms. 2000 watts is alot of torque on the forks. And the throttles on the same side is unique but if that was me I'd would have on on each side. I have checked out BigT's channel and he goes on long rides. Not a fan on those tires but to each his own. I would upgrade the tires , with all that power rolling resistance won't be an issue.
@@E-bikeguy It's great to see you so busy Tommy, all the graft's paying off, you seem to be building up quite a database of happy customers, well on you.
Just finished building my own dual motor beast...1000w front and 1000w rear. 48V...thinking I might try them on a 52V battery and controller next season and see what they do. I am on those 9-pin motor cables right now though and 1000W is all I feel comfortable until I upgrade the motor cables.
@@E-bikeguyIt's got me wondering where you're gunna place the battery/controller as there's only so much space... I suppose you could mount the 2nd battery flat on the lower (or upper) frame bar, but if on the bottom frame bar would it be in the way width wise for your feet?? I guess you could mount the 2nd controller on top of the original battery (if charging by not removing the original battery from the frame?).. I really like the bike it's all going on, its a pretty cool looking bike methinks.
@@E-bikeguy I really like what you done by welding the torque arm parts together, I'm gunna do this also if I ever actually do get round to doing a dual motor build.
As soon as I saw AR Kepler I wondered if you were working on Big Ts bike. May I make an engineering suggestion? If possible, move the geared hub to the front and the direct drive to the rear. The reason being when not using the front wheel you don't want it making drag. Unpowered gear hubs don't have drag; while unpowered direct drive motors have some drag as they are trying to make power. (And it's in a better position for regenerative braking).
No need to swap the motors front to rear, you can still make the front motor the master motor as it should be. The regen will work fine in front (if the controller supports it. It’s just a matter of setting the controllers up correctly. AFAIK, the concept here is adding a front motor kit (normally intended for converting a non-ebike to an ebike), and it will be the main motor. Then, with proper wiring, the rear controller will be activated by a button to assist the front motor during acceleration or hill climbs, then once up to speed the rear controller switched off and allowed to freewheel. Cruise is entirely front motor.
@@imho7250 You're right in that can work, however using a 2KW front motor brings up some safety issues. I never use more than 750W on a front hub that is the primary drive. To much risk of losing traction on a turn when under high power IMHO.
@@ebikeengineer ...hmm, yeah I was thinking that - regarding too much power to the front wheel... If I was doing it, I'd want the rear wheel to have the most power and the front wheel just free running with a small amount of rolling power just to not hinder the rear wheels efforts and then have the front wheel (on a separate throttle, or if possible on the same throttle with a 60/40 set-up) as an aid for getting up hills easier. I'd be worried that if too much power was being supplied to the front wheel that when cornering it would slip out from under me causing a bad accident/fall.
@@ebikeengineer , watts is not torque. The rear 1000w motor will have as much torque as the front 2000w motor. And it really depends on the Kt of the motor. For example, my ebike originally had a 400w geared motor and 15a peak controller. Top speed 33 kph. Then i replaced it was a 22Kv gearless 2000w motor and with the same 15a controller, torque was only about 50% of original, so Kt was about half. Then i installed a spare 30a controller and regained the baseline torque but that was only enough to get you run over from behind. Lol. Then i installed my 72360 Fardriver and higher power battery and now send 50a peak and 100a boost. Even with that there is no sign of loosing traction or doing a wheelie. Also a major issue on front motor is the torque arms. Ebike guy changes the terrible design torque arm into something that actually can do its job simply by welding the two pieces together. This somewhat lessens the need to install it behind the forks like should be done with all two-piece torque arms. Since the front controller is programmable it can be set to keep torque and ramp up soft enough while still getting the speed. There are special C-washers for these types of forks that absolutely must be installed. I cant see in the video if they made it in there. Its the washer that goes in the quick release recess and clamps down on the aluminum dropouts to help keep them from spreading as the axle torque tries to spread them apart. Hopefully the torque arm was welded such that it preloads the axle flats and converts the torque into a 50 pound forward push instead of a 500 lb force of the axle trying to spread the aluminum dropouts. The tuning of the controller can change the motor from an impact wrench into a smooth torque wrench, and regen can be set mild enough to prevent it from reverse torque on the torque arms. Its often that back and forth than loosens things up enough to move, and thats when things go bad fast. Lol
Is that big box the NBpower 48-72v 2000W Fat Bike Kit ? I been looking for the right kit ever since watching you "Turbo Mode" just want to get the right kit and turbo mode my Kepler too, ppl are telling me to gut the thing and change out the rear wheel to 3000 but I like what you did, 45 - 50 is all I want, I'll pass on the triple digits like you guys do, did that when Sunoco 260 was 76 cents
I love your videos and I aspire to eventually convert my bike to an e-bike but I run into price issues and what brand I should choose I am looking for a ebike that goes pretty fast, no more than 35 MPH and I wanna be able to make it to school or a job which would be a total round trip of about 20 miles, and I am not sure what is the best options to do for cheap and beginner level. If you or anyone else has tips or suggestions on this that would be amazing! Keep up the good work.
Sounds good! Is there any website or brand you recommend that is very beginner friendly DIY type stuff that isn't as expensive as buying the pre-made/non-DIY stuff? @@E-bikeguy
A duel motor build, this is gunna be good, I'd love to do one myself at some point, just wondering how do-able it is using say just the one 52v20ah battery (that I have on my build also) using just the 1 controller with a rear hub motor and a front hub motor, or would you have to use 2 separate controllers? I'm guessing you'd have to use 2 controllers? I been wondering about this for a while, say using a 1500w rear hub ...but what size hub motor would you put on the front? That's the thing I've been 🤔 pondering, would a 500w front hub motor work, you know just for a bit of extra uphill pulling power..? I'm just wondering if anyone's actually wired up 2xhub motors to the one controller & battery, you know would it work? Or would you have to use say 750/1000w? P.s - loving the tyre pump you're using Tommy, I need one of them.
I believe there are some videos out there people put smaller hub motor in the front for a little power and there are controllers that operate both motors also or one throttle to two controllers for a dual motor setup
@@nicod974 Yeah mate, it's got me thinking, could you just wire both the wires from both motors to the 1 controller? Would it be too much sort of overload for just 1 controller? Same with the battery, just wire both to the 1 battery, I get that it would maybe be a lot of stress on the 1 battery, I just wonder if it's do-able?
@@E-bikeguy Yeah, exactly, maybe a 750 watt for the front, or I dunno 500? ...I'm just thinking so it's not too much stress on the 1 controller/battery.. And could you just connect all the throttle wires to just the 1 original throttle that's on my bike already? Hmm, something I'm going to have to look into more, cheers, appreciated!
No you need two controllers. The firing of the magnets depends on the wheels position. And the wheels are never in identical positions. There is a trick to use a single throttle for both controllers.
Keep up the Banger vids!!! I have a magicycle cruiser I’m thinking about doing a front direct drive hub motor on!! I wish I could do a controller upgrade like the rad power bikes they sell an upgrade. I’m afraid to do an aftermarket controller from China myself ..i don’t want to ruin my bike. But the magicycle pulls about 1000 watts goes about 28 miles an hour stock I’m looking for more top speed I take my bike to the gym and work daily trying to cruise at 35+ mph
Come on everybody like and sub and share his vids in the ebike community. Let’s get this guy some more subs!!! he deserves it. He helps people out when he can lets return the favor.
Yeah he a good guy !!!!
Can't wait to see out come of this build
It's coming up soon
I like how you ride the bike stock to get a feel for it first 👍 Thanks for that shout out at 3:41!! I wasn't expecting that lol Made my day! Good tip at 7:50 about identifying saboton v1 / v2 controllers!! That's a smart idea at 16:16 to weld the torque arm so it can't pivot!! That's how my Grin Tech torque arm failed, it was able to pivot! I like the build very cool bro and its Big Teedos Bike thats awesome!! Looking forward to the rest of the build! 👍👍
Lol thank you yes lol I know yall by heart and you what yall ride lol but yes I rather weld the torque arm, it's better that way 😁
Gonna be Crazy Fast!
Rotating the left side throttle forward was easy to get use to for me. I finally removed the front hub motor because my bike was a bit too fast for me!
Looks like you well on your way to making a AWD Emonster!
The Owner is going to be thrilled!
Thanks sir
Peace Prospector Tripp
Yes lol the owner loves it, I got a second part coming soon... it where I give a go lol
Can’t wait for the next video 😎 great idea with the throttles , got my bike going in the end so thanks for the help 😎
Heck yeah, I got the next video coming Monday
I LOVE this new direction you are going!!! And I'm SUPER HAPPY that you took the project from start to finish.. This looks amazing, what an amazing transformation, . I hope you continue to make videos like this about machines and technology that you often have. Well done, the car is sturdy and has many tangled wires👌
Thanky you, and you bet!!!! I'll definitely make more videos like this!!!
You do what makes you happy. I like your channel. I do you tube stuff myself. Your doing real world builds because blue collar people don't have money for unrealistic over the top everything pretty builds. We need performance and functional bikes. I want to see a trike build for groceries and utility. Everyday workhorse. Most trike don't go fast. Make a bike that can have good utility. Go to work. Pick up supplies long range. Really take the place of a car.
Thank you 💯, and yes the idea you have can be done!!!
It's nippy up here in the NE. I added a 1000w dd front to a 500w rear geared ecotric bike I bought 6 years ago. A 60v for the front on a back rack and a 52v frame triangle for the back. Super torque from line and hill climbing. With the 2 batteries , 2 33amp controllers I got great range. 30 to 40 miles. My speed was 35mph flat the bike is super heavy. For the winter I went to a 1000w bafang geared with the 60v battery and 33amp controller and took off the front motor because its to much work to take the battery off since I have the frame enclosed with panels. Cant leave the battery outside below 32F NG for battery. The bike goes 38-40mph flat on the one motor and the front comes off the ground easy. I went to 203 and 180 rotors. Waiting for another 500w geared from ALIexpress to put on the front of the bike for more off the line torque. Its a bit lighter and will use a smaller down tube battery. A torque arm bolted to the caliper mount is best. You need a torque are that will actually hold the wheel on if in the worst case scenario the dropout breaks. For the front I use steel forks. You can find steel spring suspension forks. They put them on the cheap fat tire bikes.
Heck yeah 👊🏿 I believe a dual motor conversion is a must up there
Great idea welding the 2 parts of the torque arm together, I made my own torque arms for the rear hub motor on mine, but it would be tricky to do the same for the front forks, so I like what you done there, good thinking mate.
Thank you, I always weld them parts together because don't want it to come loose lol
You are putting a lot of trust in those fork dropouts. I’ve seen several times on endless sphere were the drop outs of the suspension fork Snaped off from hub motors. Typically a solid non-functioning fork made of steel is the only option for front hubs. Even those can break which I’ve seen once and it was only a 350 W geared hub motor. But yeah, super risky putting that heavy hub motor on that cheap suspension fork. Hopefully the owner of that Bike doesn’t try to ride off-road.
Stay safe my friend! ✌️✌️✌️
Yes I was thinking of that but as long as it not riding hard it should be good
Hi my friend, yeah agreed from what I learned when building my custom ebike these type of front forks are usually said to be good for around 250 watt with one torque arm installed but under greater torque stress from a hub like this 2000 watt the alluminum dropouts have been known to sometimes crack just something to be aware of just keep an eye on them, but if they are straight steel they will just bend not ideal still but slightly safer under more torque from bigger hub motors like this, as for those washers for the rotors maybe you could of dremelled them down slightly to fit in against that recess/taper but you would think they would supply the correct size washers or have an after market all in one spacer to account for this issue! :) @@E-bikeguy
@@tjrcukForks are cheap...ride em til they crack or dont. My stock 2010 Trek 3700 front fork held up one year so far with 1000W hub motor with no signs of stress. I think people dont fit their hubs wheels properly...not running a spacer, too wide hub, etc. THAT will break your dropouts and your suspension fork wont even travel properly making it even more rough on the dropouts. If me dropping 10 feet of kilter onto rocks doesnt break my fork, I cant see some rotation doing it either. Depends on the fork and power level obviously, but in general, MTB forks of any decent quality can handle a lot of abuse.
@@AaronHendu Always good to hear other peoples experiences on what size hub motor they have on there front forks of course it is just depending on the quality of forks and the welds themselves to what they can take mine has a slightly bigger than 250 watt front hub and has been fine to so far just what i was reading at the time i installed my custom kit.
Thanks for shoutout!
Nice work as always! Waiting for Pt2
Heck yeah 👊🏿 when I saw it I said yep big teedo lol
@@E-bikeguy 👊🏾
Thanks!
I really appreciate it 🙏 💯
I like the fact that you welded the torque arms. 2000 watts is alot of torque on the forks. And the throttles on the same side is unique but if that was me I'd would have on on each side.
I have checked out BigT's channel and he goes on long rides. Not a fan on those tires but to each his own. I would upgrade the tires , with all that power rolling resistance won't be an issue.
Oh yeah I agree, it has a lot of torque
That is now a very scary ride !
It was at first but it works pretty well
I can't wait to see how it comes out and how it preforms
Lol I'll put it out next week
@@E-bikeguynice, I was wondering when we're getting part 2 of the vid, I can't wait to see what it's like when it's all done!
@mickyb.8014 it been busy here but I'll get to work on the video lol
@@E-bikeguy It's great to see you so busy Tommy, all the graft's paying off, you seem to be building up quite a database of happy customers, well on you.
@@mickyb.8014 lol almost still cutting grass and side jobs 😅 maybe next year I can relax a little
im here Sensai 🙏
🤣🤣 ok!!!!
Just finished building my own dual motor beast...1000w front and 1000w rear. 48V...thinking I might try them on a 52V battery and controller next season and see what they do. I am on those 9-pin motor cables right now though and 1000W is all I feel comfortable until I upgrade the motor cables.
Ok when you go 52v you really going to feel the difference!! Now your motor is direct drive?
Excellent, I was thinking of putting a second motor on the front but no idea what to choose
Oh ok yeah, the customer had the kit but wanted me to put it on my way lol so this is what I came up with lol
@@E-bikeguyIt's got me wondering where you're gunna place the battery/controller as there's only so much space...
I suppose you could mount the 2nd battery flat on the lower (or upper) frame bar, but if on the bottom frame bar would it be in the way width wise for your feet??
I guess you could mount the 2nd controller on top of the original battery (if charging by not removing the original battery from the frame?)..
I really like the bike it's all going on, its a pretty cool looking bike methinks.
@@mickyb.8014 I put the battery on the rack in the battery bag
@@E-bikeguy I really like what you done by welding the torque arm parts together, I'm gunna do this also if I ever actually do get round to doing a dual motor build.
@@E-bikeguy ah, righto, that's one way round it.
Put 2 fardriver controller on ! It will be exponentially powerful/ quick! Mess around and findout .
Lol 💯
As soon as I saw AR Kepler I wondered if you were working on Big Ts bike. May I make an engineering suggestion? If possible, move the geared hub to the front and the direct drive to the rear. The reason being when not using the front wheel you don't want it making drag. Unpowered gear hubs don't have drag; while unpowered direct drive motors have some drag as they are trying to make power. (And it's in a better position for regenerative braking).
Well the 2000w hub motor is for the front so we can't put a freewheel on it plus the customer want to keep it stock.
No need to swap the motors front to rear, you can still make the front motor the master motor as it should be. The regen will work fine in front (if the controller supports it. It’s just a matter of setting the controllers up correctly.
AFAIK, the concept here is adding a front motor kit (normally intended for converting a non-ebike to an ebike), and it will be the main motor. Then, with proper wiring, the rear controller will be activated by a button to assist the front motor during acceleration or hill climbs, then once up to speed the rear controller switched off and allowed to freewheel. Cruise is entirely front motor.
@@imho7250 You're right in that can work, however using a 2KW front motor brings up some safety issues. I never use more than 750W on a front hub that is the primary drive. To much risk of losing traction on a turn when under high power IMHO.
@@ebikeengineer
...hmm, yeah I was thinking that - regarding too much power to the front wheel...
If I was doing it, I'd want the rear wheel to have the most power and the front wheel just free running with a small amount of rolling power just to not hinder the rear wheels efforts and then have the front wheel (on a separate throttle, or if possible on the same throttle with a 60/40 set-up) as an aid for getting up hills easier.
I'd be worried that if too much power was being supplied to the front wheel that when cornering it would slip out from under me causing a bad accident/fall.
@@ebikeengineer , watts is not torque. The rear 1000w motor will have as much torque as the front 2000w motor. And it really depends on the Kt of the motor.
For example, my ebike originally had a 400w geared motor and 15a peak controller. Top speed 33 kph. Then i replaced it was a 22Kv gearless 2000w motor and with the same 15a controller, torque was only about 50% of original, so Kt was about half.
Then i installed a spare 30a controller and regained the baseline torque but that was only enough to get you run over from behind. Lol. Then i installed my 72360 Fardriver and higher power battery and now send 50a peak and 100a boost. Even with that there is no sign of loosing traction or doing a wheelie.
Also a major issue on front motor is the torque arms. Ebike guy changes the terrible design torque arm into something that actually can do its job simply by welding the two pieces together. This somewhat lessens the need to install it behind the forks like should be done with all two-piece torque arms.
Since the front controller is programmable it can be set to keep torque and ramp up soft enough while still getting the speed.
There are special C-washers for these types of forks that absolutely must be installed. I cant see in the video if they made it in there. Its the washer that goes in the quick release recess and clamps down on the aluminum dropouts to help keep them from spreading as the axle torque tries to spread them apart.
Hopefully the torque arm was welded such that it preloads the axle flats and converts the torque into a 50 pound forward push instead of a 500 lb force of the axle trying to spread the aluminum dropouts.
The tuning of the controller can change the motor from an impact wrench into a smooth torque wrench, and regen can be set mild enough to prevent it from reverse torque on the torque arms. Its often that back and forth than loosens things up enough to move, and thats when things go bad fast. Lol
Get your parka out! It's below 70 in Florida lol
🤣🤣🤣😎💯
You could use one throttle just splice signal wire into both controllers and neg pos to one controller
Ah, cheers 'cos I was wondering how to do it, nice one.
Yes that is correct however the owner want to keep the stock components on the bike
@@E-bikeguy It's all good to know/learn, I'm forever trying to learn more about the art of building e-bikes..
It's a great learning curve!
@@mickyb.8014 same wish I would've documented my journey I've came so far you too @E-bikeguy💯
I have 2 Keplers one is a dual battery
🚴♂️💨💨💨💨💨
Is that big box the NBpower 48-72v 2000W Fat Bike Kit ? I been looking for the right kit ever since watching you "Turbo Mode" just want to get the right kit and turbo mode my Kepler too, ppl are telling me to gut the thing and change out the rear wheel to 3000 but I like what you did, 45 - 50 is all I want, I'll pass on the triple digits like you guys do, did that when Sunoco 260 was 76 cents
Yes it's the nb power kit do you need a link
I love your videos and I aspire to eventually convert my bike to an e-bike but I run into price issues and what brand I should choose
I am looking for a ebike that goes pretty fast, no more than 35 MPH and I wanna be able to make it to school or a job which would be a total round trip of about 20 miles, and I am not sure what is the best options to do for cheap and beginner level. If you or anyone else has tips or suggestions on this that would be amazing!
Keep up the good work.
Well it's best to go DIY that way it will be cheaper, and get the range you want
Sounds good!
Is there any website or brand you recommend that is very beginner friendly DIY type stuff that isn't as expensive as buying the pre-made/non-DIY stuff? @@E-bikeguy
Big up a Jamaican
make sure you got good tire on front , as in good rubber .thanks
Oh yeah them tire are pretty good
PS-- try split controller
A duel motor build, this is gunna be good, I'd love to do one myself at some point, just wondering how do-able it is using say just the one 52v20ah battery (that I have on my build also) using just the 1 controller with a rear hub motor and a front hub motor, or would you have to use 2 separate controllers?
I'm guessing you'd have to use 2 controllers?
I been wondering about this for a while, say using a 1500w rear hub ...but what size hub motor would you put on the front? That's the thing I've been 🤔 pondering, would a 500w front hub motor work, you know just for a bit of extra uphill pulling power..?
I'm just wondering if anyone's actually wired up 2xhub motors to the one controller & battery, you know would it work?
Or would you have to use say 750/1000w?
P.s - loving the tyre pump you're using Tommy, I need one of them.
Same question...
I believe there are some videos out there people put smaller hub motor in the front for a little power and there are controllers that operate both motors also or one throttle to two controllers for a dual motor setup
@@nicod974 Yeah mate, it's got me thinking, could you just wire both the wires from both motors to the 1 controller?
Would it be too much sort of overload for just 1 controller?
Same with the battery, just wire both to the 1 battery, I get that it would maybe be a lot of stress on the 1 battery, I just wonder if it's do-able?
@@E-bikeguy Yeah, exactly, maybe a 750 watt for the front, or I dunno 500? ...I'm just thinking so it's not too much stress on the 1 controller/battery..
And could you just connect all the throttle wires to just the 1 original throttle that's on my bike already?
Hmm, something I'm going to have to look into more, cheers, appreciated!
No you need two controllers. The firing of the magnets depends on the wheels position. And the wheels are never in identical positions. There is a trick to use a single throttle for both controllers.
Do you know the correct size of Kepler planetary gears that comes on the original rear hub? 36t 47.5 mm ? If you happen to know. Thanks
I wish I knew but I never took apart or repaired this motor.
@@E-bikeguyokay… try to find the right correct size. Thanks
Fort Lauderdale here
Heck yeah bro 💪🏿 I'm not far from West Palm
@@E-bikeguy meet up and group ride?!
@chb2live heck yeah, I'm down we about to ride now
I want to have an ebike parts swap meet.
First weekend after the new year ? Meet up at the beach ?
Why not one throttle for both motors? You can wire one throttle to two controllers quite easily!
I know that but this is what the customer wants and brought the kit
He should put 48volt in first place why you choose powerful motor with slow motor I mean choice one if it's improper way to do only choose one
It's customer desire to put it this way and to tell you the truth It's really fast.
@E-bikeguy I know I mean just one I'm not hating I'm just saying
Keep up the Banger vids!!! I have a magicycle cruiser I’m thinking about doing a front direct drive hub motor on!! I wish I could do a controller upgrade like the rad power bikes they sell an upgrade. I’m afraid to do an aftermarket controller from China myself ..i don’t want to ruin my bike. But the magicycle pulls about 1000 watts goes about 28 miles an hour stock I’m looking for more top speed I take my bike to the gym and work daily trying to cruise at 35+ mph
Oh nice the sabvoton 7245 is a good choice for a front wheel conversion
Come on everybody like and sub and share his vids in the ebike community. Let’s get this guy some more subs!!! he deserves it. He helps people out when he can lets return the favor.
Thank you 💯 very much appreciated 🙏