Looks great! AWD is major fun for sure. Turbo is a great description of the 2x power. I had no problem with my forks during two years of 72v 60a operation.. and hundreds of front tire burnouts 😂 Looks very sharp and clean, the owner is gonna love it.. and that Turbo power is amazing. Nice build sir. Peace Prospector Tripp
Oh great! Definitely a great pleasure. Turbo is a great description of twice the power. The tire really doesn't grip the road the best compared to some other tires. Looks very sharp and clean, owner will love it.. Nice construction, sir.
Super cool video! Was so funny seeing you ride and talk about the Kepler! Love how you have it setup with the turbo 😂👏🏾👍🏾 I know customer will be happy with it!!!
One thing I noticed with the vee tire speedsters is they actually don’t grip the best compared to some other tires. I found myself locking up the front tire instead of gripping like my last tires.
This is a lot like my daily build. Even the frame is similar (mine is based on a 2010 Trek 3700 13" frame). Same battery box though mine is on the top tube cause the triangle too small on the 13" frame. And i dont have fat tires yet. I also have the rear panier rack (and bag) that I have some more batteries for but they have no boxes. All in all, with the rear rack, I can fit a ton of battery. I also put a little solar setup together for it but havent tried it on the bike yet...2 x 30W panels, and a boost solar charge controller that can charge 36v and 48v batteries from the lower voltage panels. The hope is to rarely have to plug in. I also have a bike camper with solar, its own batteries (24v) with an invertor so I can charge that way, too. The plan is to take the ebike and trailer cross country next season. I put dual motors on my ebike for extra torque pulling the trailer. I havent pulled the trailer yet as it still needs some stuff, mostly just waiting on the heavy duty dual kickstand to show up as it would be a pain to test without it. Luckily, I am light...about 130lbs. Camper is estimated to be around 150lb fully loaded. Bike is about 50lbs...so a bit of weight to pull around. I am hoping 2000W will be enough but i know I will end up going higher eventually. I want to ride it first and see though. I dont have direct drive motors, mine are geared cause I thought it wpuld help with torque...but and overpowered direct drive setup may be where I end up. I found some decently priced direct drive hubs for about $200 Canadian. Might pull the trigger over the holidays...well see what my budget allows. I like the geared motors though so far. I am looking into steal gears for them though. Replacement plastic ones are cheap enough at least.
The frame is almost identical to the fat ebike i just bought but it has the dual shock in mines which is a must for me. The frame is like a body of a Horse or Mustang, Stallion, etc. Its way cool because it feels like you actually riding a Horse due to the power off the gear motor and the suspension with shocks and fat tires, its like Im ridding on a bubble of barely feeling the road. The frame is tonka tuff as buck too, just like this one. I love the rear rack of being solid of handling extra weight.
And those fenders not cheap indeed, they 180$ as being lowest priced. Using Flat Out makes tires more hard as well of same psi after putting in that slush.
My personal favorite brakes so far are dyisland brakes. $100 gets 180mm disks and front and rear full brake caliper and lever setups. They’re 2 piston and have the easy adjust levers so you don’t have to use an Allen key to adjust the lever’s “sensitivity”. My buddy has used them for awhile and I tried them myself. Great brakes for the price. I have the 4 piston version with 203mm disks on my personal bike and they work even better. Close to magura in performance. Figured I’d tell you about that brand because I’ve had my experience with continually changing pads and bleeding zoom brakes. Went through 4 sets of zoom pads in the same time as my current set of dyisland pads. The dyisland pads still have a lot of life left.
you may have grown up in the hood but you grew out of the hood. Good job on that bike, I would like to see a castle nut with cotter pin like a moto. on that front wheel.
Nice! I usually just tape the new brake line to the old one and pull it through the hole. You probably want to secure that battery down more or it'll probably rip through the bag or bounce around too much.
@@E-bikeguy That's cool then. I'd think that using a lipo bag isn't a good way to mount it since you're just securing it with drill holes which can rip the bag, but it's really on the customer since it was their orders.
Love this build Brother. I am looking at upgrading to the sabvoton 7245 controller for my rear 1500w motor. I now have a 60amp JN controller with your shunt mod done. Do you think the 7245 controller would be better with my 48volt setup. Thanks' brother. Oh What were your settings no the sabvoton controller. As always A Big Thumbs Up . 👍🏾👊🏾🤛🏾💯
Nice build. E gonna be happy with it. Was you able to put 2 torque arms on it or just had enough room for one? Hope he got Mr.Tuff liners for the tires. After I put those on my bike not one flat after 900 miles this summer and I ride in the Hood too. If it was me I would have tires with just a bit more bite due to the extra torque and spin out factor. But having said that that thang is a beast!
Will there be any change in the voltage , charging current or capacity of the battery if there is moisture inside a lithium ion battery pack LFP or NMC both?
Looks good. Good video, but I noticed a bumpy sound like maybe a bent rim or knot on the tire or something. Did you not feel anything in the handlebars? Also, when one motor is not powered, does it create drag causing the other motor to work harder?
Hey Tommy, an off subject comment. Do you have any info, thoughts, predictions about the upcoming solid state batteries? As I understand they may offer huge range ,charge really fast and have a greater safety factor. I think ultimately they will become somewhat cheaper as well. I'm almost holding back on any more batteries in hope of getting one .
What's your geo-local..I'm asking b/c I'm entertaining thoughts of a bike build & I like your sunny disposition here. That is important to me but I digress. A big concern that all 2 wheeled vehicles have is the dynamic of front wheel wash-out. Do you think that juicing the front hub in the corner might cause wash-out? She is powerful ! Far Out Video & seeing you talk about the wiring & other parts within the system makes me think of things that I might think about until it was too late to change it? One big thing to me would be : Could you have two full sized batteries sitting side by side where you ran the bike off one & at the same time were charging up the other battery? I know that seems stupid but it makes sense to me that I'd wnat to know the pros/cons of such a setup & whether it was feasible to even design it? Have you ever thought about it or seen others address such a possibility? I know that most wouldn't think about this UNTIL they actually had double the ride time or an infinite amount since you could be charging a battery as you ran off the primary one? I know it's possible & batteries are expensive but if I were to do a bike I'd want what I Want in the bike. I like watching you build & if I did this I bet others would want it as well? Ohh, there's something about the front hub motor & how it connects to the forks that bothers me. Something's amiss but it almost needs a special designed part to "Sure Up" the whole connection? I hope/pray no one has any problem. peace man
Thank you 💯 I thought exactly but I made sure that the front wheel will not come off because that was my first time doing a front wheel conversion kit but so far the customer loves it, lol
Hey, I know you checked the wheel 10X's if ya did it once....lol, I didn't get to see it up close & I don't have your keen eye or experience but I saw a question in my mind? Hell, I ain't a customer....yet, and I loved it but I'm trying to figure out how far I can go w/ a build? I mentioned it in my post & if ya come across any info come back & drop it. It's all good & I'm watching your cHIT cuz I digg it dude. Drive safe out there. You got the fastest bike I ever saw., peace man
As you know a sensible 2WD Ebike have a 750W at (least) rear and a 350W or 500W in the front. This unit is ass backwards. Have a 1000w of pull in the front is unsafe .
Hey quick question so I installed a power upgrade for a friend from Area 13 for his Rad Rover 6(new display and controller) and trying to do dual battery / battery blender setup but the controller doesn't come with a xt-60 on end of battery cord but I assume all I have to do is remove the outer rubber to get to the power and ground wire but my question is do you think under the rubber it will be a red and black wire or wires same color and I won't know which is the positive and negative wire? Thanks
How heavy is the ebike of both motors? Im still debating to add front motor on my new fat tire ebike due to how heavy it is with just 1 motor at 76lbs. I know I should due to the front tire end being a bit light as it does not balance well with extra cargo weight as the front tire will lift up if I do not ease up on throttle, especially on hills. Its likely I will add 2nd motor knowing it balance bike out even but it be close to a motorcycle feel of doing this but it is all about being PRACTICAL USE over an OVERKILL BUILD.
YEAH, BACK MOTOR is a huge hub and I had extra cargo weight last night and the front handlebars was off balanced of noticing the slack in control. I feel I will need to add front motor to stabilize the weight as I easily notice one of the flaws of these newer Fat tire Ebikes of having the new high watt GEAR MOTOR ( they big E-B, of being 1500 watt) I notice the other brands now putting on 2 motors on fat tire models as the new norm. But I relate the use as using the Gear Motor as ther base and the Gearless as Turbo Booster over just using 2 gearless or gear pairing. You really have to feel this use to understand the practical definition as the right mix. Using 2 gearless as much like a double do of better off using one of your high watt 3000 and up single motor. You really have to look at the math of using a gear with gearless and ride out the motions and you would agree.@@E-bikeguy
Oh e-B, Big lesson Ive learned first hand of changing or pumping air in these fat tire models. I was flushing Flat Out in the fat tires and first tire I deflated to fill the Flat Out, I pumped the air in and realized the tube was pumping out of the edge of tire of 20 percent and almost blew it out if i didnt stop to spin tire. The weight and width of fat tires need to be lifted off ground if pumping air in if not taking wheel off frame. The weight compressed from deflate is easily have the tire edge way off. I bought a motorcycle tire pliers to fix the error but mann, I was sweating wondering the method of fat tire work more harder then regular tires. Good lesson and pass this fyi on to others of paying attention to the different methods of work done. Also got me a mini motorcycle jack to avoid this issue from here on. Mann, the wheel; was stuck on stupid and saw reason why as the tube was hanging out about to blow up if I didnt stop to spin the Flat Out inside.
My question is, these motors are powerful and fast so why,why,why don't we have them on kayak's ? I want mine where the motor flips out from a panel under the kayak and throttle next to seat ! Let's go
I gotta question for you brother, What does the wife think of you working in the kitchen? Mine chases me out with the broom when I start moving stuff in, lol the bike is coming nice..
Great thanks love your builds I make bikes myself I made a Swft zip e-bike into a motorcycle added light and windshield for a motorcycle it’s a dual motor with stock motor on rear and 1000w conversion kit on the front dual motor dual battery two controllers. Now just trying to break over 28mph I’ve gotten 40mph on downhill since I’ve added the conversion it’s a 20x4.0 fat bike
You need to switch those 2 motors around and the bike will be 35% more efficient ... He's losing at least 1/3 of the power or more by putting that motor in front... Why have a 2k motor that's gonna perform like a 1k ? It can't properly put it's power out cause of the zero weight up front and the peeling of the tire because of it. I know you do your thing but we both know that we can get at least another 4 to 10 miles or a bit more by the switch... Especially if he would switch them around and added a good controller.
19:42 I know my grizzlies speedometer is off a bit, but it does show just under 40mph top speed. It currently has the stock 30 amp 1k watt controllers. I was wondering if it could handle, and fit 35 amp controllers. What do you think? I can bring it by next week if you wanna do a proper checkout on it. I’m also looking into getting a full body battery, and bag for it.
Looks great!
AWD is major fun for sure. Turbo is a great description of the 2x power.
I had no problem with my forks during two years of 72v 60a operation.. and hundreds of front tire burnouts 😂
Looks very sharp and clean, the owner is gonna love it.. and that Turbo power is amazing.
Nice build sir.
Peace Prospector Tripp
Thank you my friend 💯 she definitely has the power to do some burn outs lol
Oh great!
Definitely a great pleasure. Turbo is a great description of twice the power. The tire really doesn't grip the road the best compared to some other tires. Looks very sharp and clean, owner will love it..
Nice construction, sir.
Oh yeah, it still have the power from the rear but when that front hub kicks in boy, hold on lol
Keep up the good work! I was about to buy the Ariel rider.. but was debating putting a DD hub on my cheap mongoose instead, this sold me :P
Super cool video! Was so funny seeing you ride and talk about the Kepler! Love how you have it setup with the turbo 😂👏🏾👍🏾 I know customer will be happy with it!!!
Lol thank you when I first saw it I thought about you lol and the customer love it💯👊🏿
Great video...incredible build job! 💪🚴♂️
Thank you💯💯💯👊🏿
big teedo would be proud
Yes but no where near his level 🤣
@@E-bikeguy "we outchea"
One thing I noticed with the vee tire speedsters is they actually don’t grip the best compared to some other tires. I found myself locking up the front tire instead of gripping like my last tires.
When it comes to hose clamps, I use shrink wrap instead of paint to hide most of the silver of the clamp.
Ok nice , I never thought about that!!!
good work, not to many people can do that conversion
Thank you 💯
Very nice work..
Came out real nice bro!!!
Thanknyou very much, and powerful too
This is a lot like my daily build. Even the frame is similar (mine is based on a 2010 Trek 3700 13" frame). Same battery box though mine is on the top tube cause the triangle too small on the 13" frame. And i dont have fat tires yet. I also have the rear panier rack (and bag) that I have some more batteries for but they have no boxes. All in all, with the rear rack, I can fit a ton of battery. I also put a little solar setup together for it but havent tried it on the bike yet...2 x 30W panels, and a boost solar charge controller that can charge 36v and 48v batteries from the lower voltage panels. The hope is to rarely have to plug in. I also have a bike camper with solar, its own batteries (24v) with an invertor so I can charge that way, too. The plan is to take the ebike and trailer cross country next season. I put dual motors on my ebike for extra torque pulling the trailer. I havent pulled the trailer yet as it still needs some stuff, mostly just waiting on the heavy duty dual kickstand to show up as it would be a pain to test without it. Luckily, I am light...about 130lbs. Camper is estimated to be around 150lb fully loaded. Bike is about 50lbs...so a bit of weight to pull around. I am hoping 2000W will be enough but i know I will end up going higher eventually. I want to ride it first and see though. I dont have direct drive motors, mine are geared cause I thought it wpuld help with torque...but and overpowered direct drive setup may be where I end up. I found some decently priced direct drive hubs for about $200 Canadian. Might pull the trigger over the holidays...well see what my budget allows. I like the geared motors though so far. I am looking into steal gears for them though. Replacement plastic ones are cheap enough at least.
It’s a video of a guy that have an 8000 watts on a regular mountain bike he gets 103 mph on it
The frame is almost identical to the fat ebike i just bought but it has the dual shock in mines which is a must for me. The frame is like a body of a Horse or Mustang, Stallion, etc. Its way cool because it feels like you actually riding a Horse due to the power off the gear motor and the suspension with shocks and fat tires, its like Im ridding on a bubble of barely feeling the road. The frame is tonka tuff as buck too, just like this one. I love the rear rack of being solid of handling extra weight.
And those fenders not cheap indeed, they 180$ as being lowest priced. Using Flat Out makes tires more hard as well of same psi after putting in that slush.
My personal favorite brakes so far are dyisland brakes. $100 gets 180mm disks and front and rear full brake caliper and lever setups. They’re 2 piston and have the easy adjust levers so you don’t have to use an Allen key to adjust the lever’s “sensitivity”. My buddy has used them for awhile and I tried them myself. Great brakes for the price. I have the 4 piston version with 203mm disks on my personal bike and they work even better. Close to magura in performance. Figured I’d tell you about that brand because I’ve had my experience with continually changing pads and bleeding zoom brakes. Went through 4 sets of zoom pads in the same time as my current set of dyisland pads. The dyisland pads still have a lot of life left.
Oh yes them brakes are good also
@@E-bikeguy they’ve been my go to for everything. Stops me from over 30 reliably all day
you may have grown up in the hood but you grew out of the hood. Good job on that bike, I would like to see a castle nut with cotter pin like a moto. on that front wheel.
Oh yeah that's a great idea, but I definitely appreciate it 💯👊🏿
Just to let you know , with those newboiler lights , if you hold the power button down for 2-3 seconds you get a daytime running light 😎😎
Nice! I usually just tape the new brake line to the old one and pull it through the hole. You probably want to secure that battery down more or it'll probably rip through the bag or bounce around too much.
Well that is what I thought but that bike is in a tuff bag I thought that it would bounce but it ain't going nowhere
@@E-bikeguy That's cool then. I'd think that using a lipo bag isn't a good way to mount it since you're just securing it with drill holes which can rip the bag, but it's really on the customer since it was their orders.
Love this build Brother. I am looking at upgrading to the sabvoton 7245 controller for my rear 1500w motor. I now have a 60amp JN controller with your shunt mod done. Do you think the 7245 controller would be better with my 48volt setup. Thanks' brother. Oh What were your settings no the sabvoton controller. As always A Big Thumbs Up . 👍🏾👊🏾🤛🏾💯
Well it depends on if you jt controller is programmable if so. Power wise the jt controller is better
Thank you Brother. Yes my controller has 16 setting's. But no regen lol..Thanks' again for you help.👍🏾👊🏾🤛🏾💯@@E-bikeguy
Nice I gotta similar build otw
Nice build. E gonna be happy with it. Was you able to put 2 torque arms on it or just had enough room for one?
Hope he got Mr.Tuff liners for the tires. After I put those on my bike not one flat after 900 miles this summer and I ride in the Hood too. If it was me I would have tires with just a bit more bite due to the extra torque and spin out factor.
But having said that that thang is a beast!
Thank you 💯 I believe I put two on the motor it's extra powerful now
Hey Big Dog, I believe in your skill. Just focus on your projects and not the haters aight.
Ok bet
Awesome!
Turbo charged AR Kepler Cadillac
🚴♂️💨💨💨💨💨💨💨💨
That's cool, nice looking bike, clean work, one question, wouldn't it handle better with 2000 on back and 750 on front?
I say but the customer wanted to keep it that way
Will there be any change in the voltage , charging current or capacity of the battery if there is moisture inside a lithium ion battery pack LFP or NMC both?
Torq arm very important
Looks good. Good video, but I noticed a bumpy sound like maybe a bent rim or knot on the tire or something. Did you not feel anything in the handlebars? Also, when one motor is not powered, does it create drag causing the other motor to work harder?
No it rode really smooth I think it was the rotor was not on right and it was rubbing on the caliper
I found a controller that will power dual motors with inclination detection so it sends more power to the rear when the hill gets steep
Send me a link please
Was it that Grin Tech one? I think that is the one I was looking at. Currentky running two controllers and two motors, single throttle.
Another banger vid!!!!!! Keep it up brotha!!!
Heck yeah, you know I definitely will!!!
👍👍👍👍
Hey Tommy, an off subject comment. Do you have any info, thoughts, predictions about the upcoming solid state batteries?
As I understand they may offer huge range ,charge really fast and have a greater safety factor. I think ultimately they will become somewhat cheaper as well.
I'm almost holding back on any more batteries in hope of getting one .
I just got your message. I really don't know about them batteries pretty sure they are the future. I need to look into them
What's your geo-local..I'm asking b/c I'm entertaining thoughts of a bike build & I like your sunny disposition here. That is important to
me but I digress. A big concern that all 2 wheeled vehicles have is the dynamic of front wheel wash-out. Do you think that juicing the
front hub in the corner might cause wash-out? She is powerful ! Far Out Video & seeing you talk about the wiring & other parts within
the system makes me think of things that I might think about until it was too late to change it? One big thing to me would be :
Could you have two full sized batteries sitting side by side where you ran the bike off one & at the same time were charging up
the other battery? I know that seems stupid but it makes sense to me that I'd wnat to know the pros/cons of such a setup &
whether it was feasible to even design it? Have you ever thought about it or seen others address such a possibility? I know
that most wouldn't think about this UNTIL they actually had double the ride time or an infinite amount since you could be
charging a battery as you ran off the primary one? I know it's possible & batteries are expensive but if I were to do a bike
I'd want what I Want in the bike. I like watching you build & if I did this I bet others would want it as well? Ohh, there's
something about the front hub motor & how it connects to the forks that bothers me. Something's amiss but it almost
needs a special designed part to "Sure Up" the whole connection? I hope/pray no one has any problem. peace man
Thank you 💯 I thought exactly but I made sure that the front wheel will not come off because that was my first time doing a front wheel conversion kit but so far the customer loves it, lol
Hey, I know you checked the wheel 10X's if ya did it once....lol, I didn't get to see it up close & I don't have your keen eye or
experience but I saw a question in my mind? Hell, I ain't a customer....yet, and I loved it but I'm trying to figure out how
far I can go w/ a build? I mentioned it in my post & if ya come across any info come back & drop it. It's all good & I'm
watching your cHIT cuz I digg it dude. Drive safe out there. You got the fastest bike I ever saw., peace man
It is pulling. But having that power with out full suspension is wreckless.
As you know a sensible 2WD Ebike have a 750W at (least) rear and a 350W or 500W in the front.
This unit is ass backwards. Have a 1000w of pull in the front is unsafe .
Ur so cool
Hey quick question so I installed a power upgrade for a friend from Area 13 for his Rad Rover 6(new display and controller) and trying to do dual battery / battery blender setup but the controller doesn't come with a xt-60 on end of battery cord but I assume all I have to do is remove the outer rubber to get to the power and ground wire but my question is do you think under the rubber it will be a red and black wire or wires same color and I won't know which is the positive and negative wire? Thanks
Oh yes it definitely should be a red and black wires
@@E-bikeguy cool thanks
You'll have better reliability with a setup like this. If one part fails, the other will get you home on a fresh battery depending on how you run it.
Oh yes, now that I agree!!!
Hey how we doing e-bike guy I was wondering if they had any good conversion kits for an electric XP 2.0
Oh yeah there are a lot of kit that will fit your bike
How do I get replacement washer for my hub motor I’ve searched everywhere
I just get them from the hardware store
Nice bike..There is a lot to look at LOL
Lol thank you 👊🏿
I have the sme band front hub it tops at 30 mph can you link a controller that makes it go faster
Ok try a sabvoton 7245 but go 72v it will be much faster
I may be wrong but putting the controller in the bag could cause it to run hot it happened to me needless to say it looks clean
I checked all that but but the controller doesn't get hot at all .
Maybe on a 90 degree plus day it might be an issue but the thing with bags is you can always open them up or put an air slit on them.
@davidhuggins3892 yes I agree
@@davidhuggins3892 since then I put it under the rack and it doesn’t get hot anymore even during the summer
Does that spot welder with the farad built in decent quality for small battery repairs?
The black spot welder? Or the kweld
The one the black one, it’s got the handle on it?
@tlries oh yes it's the best one for price , it can spot welder up to .2mm nickel in fact I'm selling it if you want to but it
Direct drive hubs are weaker but they have higher speed they don't have the torque of a gear hub but you don't need so much torque if you have two hub
Now that also depends on the application now it you compare 1000 w direct drive and a 1000w geared drive then yes, definitely
How heavy is the ebike of both motors? Im still debating to add front motor on my new fat tire ebike due to how heavy it is with just 1 motor at 76lbs. I know I should due to the front tire end being a bit light as it does not balance well with extra cargo weight as the front tire will lift up if I do not ease up on throttle, especially on hills. Its likely I will add 2nd motor knowing it balance bike out even but it be close to a motorcycle feel of doing this but it is all about being PRACTICAL USE over an OVERKILL BUILD.
tHE 1500 WATT gear motor is new models, extremely BIG with a new design near the bolt ends of the disc brake side. POWERFULL at 89n.m.
It's right at 86lbs
YEAH, BACK MOTOR is a huge hub and I had extra cargo weight last night and the front handlebars was off balanced of noticing the slack in control. I feel I will need to add front motor to stabilize the weight as I easily notice one of the flaws of these newer Fat tire Ebikes of having the new high watt GEAR MOTOR ( they big E-B, of being 1500 watt) I notice the other brands now putting on 2 motors on fat tire models as the new norm. But I relate the use as using the Gear Motor as ther base and the Gearless as Turbo Booster over just using 2 gearless or gear pairing. You really have to feel this use to understand the practical definition as the right mix. Using 2 gearless as much like a double do of better off using one of your high watt 3000 and up single motor. You really have to look at the math of using a gear with gearless and ride out the motions and you would agree.@@E-bikeguy
@user619tlsdca5 oh yes I agree but it's what the customer wants,
Oh e-B, Big lesson Ive learned first hand of changing or pumping air in these fat tire models. I was flushing Flat Out in the fat tires and first tire I deflated to fill the Flat Out, I pumped the air in and realized the tube was pumping out of the edge of tire of 20 percent and almost blew it out if i didnt stop to spin tire. The weight and width of fat tires need to be lifted off ground if pumping air in if not taking wheel off frame. The weight compressed from deflate is easily have the tire edge way off. I bought a motorcycle tire pliers to fix the error but mann, I was sweating wondering the method of fat tire work more harder then regular tires. Good lesson and pass this fyi on to others of paying attention to the different methods of work done. Also got me a mini motorcycle jack to avoid this issue from here on. Mann, the wheel; was stuck on stupid and saw reason why as the tube was hanging out about to blow up if I didnt stop to spin the Flat Out inside.
My question is, these motors are powerful and fast so why,why,why don't we have them on kayak's ? I want mine where the motor flips out from a panel under the kayak and throttle next to seat ! Let's go
That might be something of interest 🤔 definitely
Where are you located at if you don't mind me asking
I'm in central Florida
I gotta question for you brother, What does the wife think of you working in the kitchen? Mine chases me out with the broom when I start moving stuff in, lol the bike is coming nice..
As long as she's not cooking I'm good lol
Put a other 2k watt motor on the back
I agree 💯
How can I get my 1000w to break over 28mph
A 45a controller will get you over 28mph
What ah battery would I need I only have a 52v 13Ah and a 48v 10ah battery I’m upgrading the 48v to 20ah
@@user-xk3bu6rw7z a 60v or a 72v battery, don't have to be a hi ah one just a higher voltage battery will do
Great thanks love your builds I make bikes myself I made a Swft zip e-bike into a motorcycle added light and windshield for a motorcycle it’s a dual motor with stock motor on rear and 1000w conversion kit on the front dual motor dual battery two controllers. Now just trying to break over 28mph I’ve gotten 40mph on downhill since I’ve added the conversion it’s a 20x4.0 fat bike
That controller needs air flow.
You need to switch those 2 motors around and the bike will be 35% more efficient ... He's losing at least 1/3 of the power or more by putting that motor in front... Why have a 2k motor that's gonna perform like a 1k ? It can't properly put it's power out cause of the zero weight up front and the peeling of the tire because of it. I know you do your thing but we both know that we can get at least another 4 to 10 miles or a bit more by the switch... Especially if he would switch them around and added a good controller.
It's what the customer wants
motoarele sunt frumoase , bune, dar modelu bicicletei nu mil place chear de loc...
19:42 I know my grizzlies speedometer is off a bit, but it does show just under 40mph top speed. It currently has the stock 30 amp 1k watt controllers. I was wondering if it could handle, and fit 35 amp controllers. What do you think? I can bring it by next week if you wanna do a proper checkout on it. I’m also looking into getting a full body battery, and bag for it.
Yes, bring it by so I can look at it I'm pretty sure we can
The cargo plus rack comes in on Friday.
Nice!!