Upgrade Disc Brakes Tips and Tricks
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2021
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Disc Brake Install Tips and Tricks
Episode 130 Manic Mechanic
Stainless Steel Brake-USA is a company that rose from the ashes of SSBC. It was bought by enthusiast to bring back the quality brake systems that had been offered before. Because we have a long standing relationship with folks that are now at SSBC-USA, we thought we’d give them a shot at putting brakes on our 1965 Falcon Ranchero.
We give tips on greasing the bearings. We show how to set the bearings. We detail out how to install the kit for trouble free use.
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jford@autorestomod.com
/ gasolinemedia
ssbc-usa.com
Kit we used: A120D for v-8 spindles
Had we stayed I-6 and four lug: A120-4/5
Auto Krafters
Spindle RH Front 1965 Ford Falcon: C5DZ-3105R
www.autokrafters.com/p-23339-...
Spindle LH Front 1965 Ford Falcon: C5DZ-3105L
www.autokrafters.com/p-23338-... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Being a Caterpillar mechanic for 38 years has helped me, I have a 1963 fair lane sports coupe which I installed 1977 Granada spindles and all disc brake parts. Installed dual master cylinder, replummed it and put 1970 LTD tie rod joints. Everything works perfectly!
My dad taught me to apply grease into the hub, also. He was turning wrenches in the 1930s. I also use splash shields on a road car. Pebbles can get lodged between the caliper and rotor without them, including anything else. One can bet that if the factory went to the trouble to engineer splash shields, they should be used. Thanks for the video, Jeff.
Nope. I put a blob of grease in my hand as you did but, I'll scrape the bearing across the blob until it starts to leave out the opposite side and continue to work my around the whole bearing.
This way you KNOW grease is all the way through the bearing.
The way you describe is the way I learned to do it, probably 40 years ago from my Dad, and I have never had an issue with it.
50 years ago my professional Mech Uncle ( in his 70s ) taught me basicially the same, glob in palm, then push the side part of bearing into the blob till you see it coming out the other side
That's how my grandpa taught me
I was a mechanic for a Regional Airline in 1978. We were always replacing bearings due to burn spots on the outer race. When the airplane lands the bearings burn out to get started. The corporate jet for a major candy company was next door. They said they had switch to this new grease by Mobil and that their burnt race problem was gone. We switched and what a difference in bearing life.
Great video. Thanks a million!!!!!!!
I like this kit for my 1963 Falcon. Thanks for sharing!
Did you have to change the tire size? I got 14’s and considered this kit but still not sure.
My ‘59 Ford shop manual says to put grease in the hub until it’s level with the race. Great video ❤
I've always been taught to clean the rotors like you did, but here's my question, does it really matter? I mean, I understand getting grease off, but finger oils and dust, eventually those brakes will get dirty while driving and rusty, just a philosophical thought! Great video as always!
Good job. I always hand grease bearings, I prefer hands on. I could not believe the professional you are that you were wearing a ring. No grease on back of brake pad or mounting tab.
I was taught to grease the inside of the hub also. I was told that it helped to cool the bearings or keep the heat from the rotor
The Rancho is looking sweet...
I pack it fully from the open cage side to closed cage side to prevent trapping air in the middle
When you speak of "little dab will do ya" are you speaking of Mobil 1 or Brylcreem? Nostalgia from the good ole days. Great job, love your vids, especially concerning Falcons.
Mmmmm yes?
Good to see you back "business as usual". Nuther good one, I would put the cap on before cleaning the rotor, isolate the grease as soon as possible.
Great point!
Thanks for the video. I would recommend a seal installer. They are very cheap in most automotive store. Glad you are back. Keep those videos coming!!!
Just for fun stuff --- On 1965 full size Fords, I installed 220,000 of those seals plus a bunch of other stuff.
@@kenbarnes8958 How did you do it at the factory? Like what tools and what process did you use? I find that kind of stuff absolutely fascinating!!
@@TheVenom8343 --- at the factory they will spend any amount of money that will allow you to complete your job in the alloted time [usually less than a minute] - but was there something in my comment that let you know that I worked on the Ford assembly line in '65?
@@kenbarnes8958 Yeah, when you said "On 65 Ford full sizes" and "220,000" made me think that you worked on the assembly line. Sorry about that my dude. What kind of work did you do?
@@TheVenom8343 I installed the bearings, seals and greased them (about 10 seconds each drum) - put them on the spindles - installed the nut and washer and ran them down. Both front drums. I could do all that in 49 seconds. The next guy just adjusted the nut and cotter pined it. Don't sound fair does it?
I also have had Mobil 1 grease marking its territory in my tool box drawer.
@autorestomod...have you any information on brake upgrades for the 66 falcon. I haven't seen you do any 66 and later.
Take a short piece of 2x4 to lay on seal, then hit the 2x4
That can work too, but I find that this works best for me.
I have used many different oils and greases. I've never had an issue with any of them. Lube regularly. They are all fine ...IMHO.
Just mocked up the Ridetech suspension and Street or Track Big spindles and 13x1.25” brake system
Nice!
I’ve been wanting to do the drum to disk for a while. Glad to see there’s another option. How does this kit stand against the CSRP kits in terms of quality?
I converted my 65F100 with this companies parts and was satisfied, but I didn't get a complete kit, I used latter truck disc spindles, dust covers etc.
Why is my rotor a 2 piece can I swap it for the one piece in this video
I have a 64 Falcon Sprint with stock suspension front and rear. I want to put Magnum 500 wheels in either 15 or 17 inch. Do you have a handle on what the maximum tire size and what offset i can use without interference and or rubbing?
The shield is there for road debris and to reduce brake fade when wet
Yes.
@autorestomod I see the part numbers for the new spindles in the description, but not which kit you used from SSBC-USA. I see they have a few different kits listed so hoped to see which one you actually used.
Sorry about that. I will update the part numbers later today.
@@AutoRestoMod no worries at all. I know you have your hands full with moving, and setting up the new location. So got to take care of that stuff first
this kit fit a 64 fairlane ?
What car did these come on stock,do u have part number
There is a 3rd style bearing greaser. That is what I use :P
That works too.
Hey guys, I love your channel I watch a ton of your videos. I had a question about my 63 Futura I’ve been told in other forums that it is a good idea to change the spindle to a 65 mustang model because they’re cheaper and brick conversions are more plentiful. But I’ve also heard that in swapping over the 65 V8 spindle the steering components have to be switched over as well. Could you shed some light on this swap?
I'm not sure about the steering, but you may have issues with suspension. Nothing major, but lots of part swapping. For instance, if your Falcon was originally a 6 cylinder, it will have a smaller lower ball joint than the V8 Mustang uses. You'll also have to change the lower control arm, as the ball joint is made into the arm. I bent the knuckle on a 61 once, and the only replacement I could find was a 63. There was some issue that necessitated using the 63 lower arm, and then the anti-sway bar would fit. Ended up going back to the junkyard for the bar and the other lower arm and knuckle. Had to change all this to use one later- model knuckle. This was over 30 years ago, I don't remember all the details, but there was some minor issues to face. With today's aftermarket parts, you should be able to find everything you need.
* sway bar would not fit...
Does this kit 1963 fairlane?
Purchased a set of Scott Drake steering spindles and the tapered holes for the Mustang V8 tie rods are too small and increasing the size of a tapered hole is no easy thing...what does one do without the use of the puny tie rod ends which come on 6 cylinder cars?
There are two taper sizes on V8. Try using the pre 1969 V8 tie-rod end. Keep in mind that I have received a 1970 tie rod in a 1968 part numbered box recently.
I always add grease inside the hub.The brake caliper's look just like the 4 piston calipers that are factory installed on my 68 Continental.I just replaced my calipers and I also installed hydro boost.I bought my car with no engine no transmission and no brake booster.And nobody makes the old booster any more. My brakes are toe touch.
My non synthetic grease in my gun pees also when it sits. For you 1970 Camaro guys, seating the bearing, From the Camaro Supplement manual.
When you spin the rotor, tighten the nut to 12 lbs. ft. torque. Then backoff the nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the nut an additional 1/2 flat or less as req'd to insert the cotter pin.
Good stuff as always John.
Greasing inside the hub prevents condensation
I'm wanting to do my 64 Fastback but I have stock 14" wheels, good whitewalls and excellent 3 bar (expensive) wire wheel covers. It appears that you have to change to 15" wheels to use the disc brakes. I don't want to do that. Anybody know for sure if there is a disc brake kit that will allow me to keep my stock 14" wheels.
Nope. We are using the original 14" off of Cam's '65. This is the original type Ford used for the GT, right down to the caliper.
Use a block of wood to assist with seal installation so it does seat it correctly
Good point
Noticed the lighting/color correction and shot quality has been hopped up.
the joys of grease packing wheel bearings lol
Blech...I hate it, yet it is a Satisfying venture.
@@AutoRestoMod I still do that way 48yrs later lol
Will this fit on a 66 falcon?
Yes.
How about parts that aren’t available for the Merc Comet, like sheet metal. 🙄 oh my dear lord.
Man I'm watching all these but I have a 1966 Ranchero and it's harder to find parts for the 66 and 67 than any other Ranchero
1966 is a one year only Falcon nose. BUT the stuff for 1966 Fairlane will bolt up. Trim items like dash pads (I have one) and instrument clusters are the biggest problem. You can use seat upholstery carpet and door panels from the Fairlane and no one will know. Auto Krafters is our go to on those parts.
That REAR bearing scares me, I have NEVER seen one that loose as an assembly, has to be a CHI NA one like most now
Think it will be OK.
Why don't they offer a universal proportion valve rather than the adjustable type?
I've been told because different pressures are needed to activate the rear brakes drum vs disc and even among products thus an adjustment is best
@@REVNUMANEWBERN I've upgraded my 68 Cougar brakes to 2005 mustang GT disc up front, left the rear drums stock, factory booster and master cylinder. I'm using a disc/drum universal proportion valve from summit racing and I think I have the best braking I've ever had, and I've tried many of the conversions.
You got it but you keep putting it though the bottom until it comes out of the top of the bearing cage then you don't have to fiddle with it and it's less messy. Good job otherwise.
Thanks!