67' Mustang Disc Brake Conversion - Do Not Buy This One
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Update: I have replaced this kit with a Wilwood kit in my later videos.
We discuss the disc brake conversion I bought for the 1967 Mustang family car and why it was a bad buy, and what you should look for in a disc brake conversion on your classic car.
The kit I bought and suggest not buying:
CJ Pony Parts #DBF198
www.cjponyparts.com/front-pow... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Was lucky I found this video! thank you for posting, considering I almost just purchased the kit from CJ for my 68. SSBC's install video also doesn't show how the pedal connection fits either which is a small detail but an important one considering you're connecting to 50 year old factory parts. Appreciate the review.
I went oem on my 67. I used Granada front knuckle and brakes and a original rebuilt booster and master cyl
Thanks for the info, now I know what to watch out for!
Almost purchased that kit thanks for this video. Went with a Wilwood setup which cost a bunch more but hey only thing more important than your tires are your brakes!
Glad the information was of help! Brakes are certainly not something to skimp on. On the SR240Z project I went with Wilwood and after the initial pain to the wallet, I have been happy.
Damn! Wish I would have seen this video prior to purchase. Thanks for insight
I can't get the video to play so I'll have to revisit later. I bought a '69 Mustang that the PO had run as a budget racer. He was still running front drums! So I'm exploring options to upgrade to front disc brakes.
I did the conversion old school on my 67 convertible... found 1973 Granada spindles s from a salvage yard, ordered new rotors and calipers and hoses. Converting the brake pedal was the worst part working up under the dash! The brake pedal for standard and power brakes are different! I think I used a standard Ford power booster
just saved me.i was about to order that same dam kitty came here to look n see what others have done..i owe ya thanks
Thanks for doing this warning video. Some times cheap parts end up costing more! I try to avoid them for my 67 Cyclone which has factory front discs which have worked fine since I got the car in 2005.
When possible I like OEM options. If not, I prefer one of the major brand like Wilwood, Baer, Brembo, etc. I actually really like some of StopTech's upgrade packages for existing discs, which is what I went with for my S2000.
@@AmbiVe Nice, thanks for the info.
I got a kit from Cj pony parts the one for front no problem at all. Was 4 to 5 lug conversion the one for the back was bad had catty calipers they leaked
Excellent rant/review. I purchased the kit in good faith and then played hell trying to get them to take it back when the parts didn't fit (I couldn't even mount the rotors). I ended up buying a parts car with disc brakes and adapting them over to my '69.
Best way to do it. This after market crap is just that, crap.
It's a crap shoot whether it's going to fit and work.
Thank you for this!
Thanks for posting this. I'm actually a CJ frequent customer, since I also have a 67' Mustang, and I was thinking on doing this conversion. I have had a 50/50 experience with their parts. Sometimes they're spot-on, other times they are very cheaply made and sometimes crack/break. I've found other sites that offer better parts and have much better reviews on certain things. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything. Very useful!
I would completely spend the extra money on a kit with better parts. If you haven't watched my followup video about the booster, check it out. That is a whole different story about having not even been the right one, they didn't believe me, then finally when it died they sent a replacement. Not fun. Normally I have good luck with CJ and I'll order more from them in the future, glad the video helped someone else out.
Made in China cheap sh!t that doesn't fit.
Ugh I know that feeling...cj pony parts really sucks lately
After Market Intakes do NOT have multiple Vacuum Ports on them as do the Stock/Factory Intakes do. Still haven't heard him recommend any other Kits for this year Mustang! As far as making the Brake Light Switch work, I've had to do this on many updates not like it's really a "Big deal". Fords are notorious for changing parts in the middle of Production Years and you will never know until you decided /have to replace parts on them.
I had a hell of a time installing my ssbc disc brakes on my 67 cougar, first the new power brake booster from Master power brake had a hole, they give me a new one, but they didn't believe me, it took 8 hours to get the brake lights to work,had to drill hole in new switch,had to make my own brake lines, no one makes them, I put those british hard brake pads on and they killed my rotors in 10,000 miles! Thanks my friends,
Sorry to hear it. At this point I'm avoiding any of these low cost brake options at all costs. It's just not worth it vs a legitimate quality system.
CSRP is the Bran I used to update my 1967 cougar drums brakes to disc brakes. I have gotten it all put together and now the calipers are hitting my lower ball joints when I try to turn. Basically I can’t make full turns anymore. I can only turn about half the radius that I could originally. The owner of the company said I don’t have factory parts on my car. I’m not sure that is correct, because I always used factory parts. Do you know how I verify that?
Thanks for the information.
Factory had a vacuum T on the intake manifold, not the booster. Most early boosters were single vacuum port. The trans vacuum line runs down the Passenger side, hence this is why ford didn't run vacuum from the booster. Best kits Ive found are from Speedway. They fit and master is actually a disc master, not a drum/drum which a lot of companies use. Discs req a pressure valve in the master port to work correctly and this is why a drum/drum master gives you a sloppy pedal and bad performance.
I hate a semi complete kit.
It's like a restaurant forgetting the steak in your steak dinner
I just bought a 66 mustang and I’m glad I didn’t buy that conversion kit for it but at the beginning of this video you said you would list off a couple of other company to choose from. Can you let us know which one’s please and thank you.
If you are lowering the car I would suggest deciding on that first. To lower these, you generally have to go with a Shelby drop or drop spindles, and if you go with drop spindles, you may want to use the ones I did. These Maier Racing units upsize the spindle and have different brackets.
Check it my other video on then and the Wilwoods I now have on the car!
glad I found this... was just gonna plunk down some cash for this kit...
I just brought a 67 Mustang that I’m lookin to restore. I’m definitely going to install some disc brakes. I watched your video a couple times but I can’t catch where you recommended some kits that are actually complete and good in quality.
I'm going to be trying out the wildwood kit next for it. I have a wildwood setup on the SR240Z and also just bought some for another project and both seem good quality.
AmbiVe Ok, I’m going to look into it. Much appreciated and I’m probably going to be inquiring about what you’ve done to your ‘67 so mines comes out almost as awesome.
@@BAMLxC83 Feel free to send over questions. I can at least give my opinion on the parts that I have purchased. I'll be posting a few videos on this car soon about the engine swap and trying to make my own exhaust. Just have to find time for all the projects.
i was about to order this kit, thank you so much for warning me
Anything I can do to save someone else the headache and a little cash. Thanks for watching!
@@AmbiVe which full front suspension kit would you recommend ?
@@AmbiVe for a 67 btw
What is the car's purpose and what's the budget? I went with Scott Drake lowering springs, socks, and Maier Racing drop spindles. That brought the car down a few inches and basically the geometry of a Shelby drop.
In the rear I did reverse eye Scott Drake lowering leafs. Then just replaced anything that was rubber so that there's no slop from old age.
I'm well into installing the exact same type of kit for my 67, made by CSRP, and am having second thoughts about it. I've never had any issues with the manual drum brakes, but figured better stopping would be a good thing. Oddly, adding the power brake booster is one of the more difficult things I've ever done on my car, which I've owned since 1977, and I dread having to take it out a few years down the road if it develops a vacuum leak. Clearances are tight under the hood as well as under the dash. Be prepared to remove your shock tower brace, steering wheel, and possibly front seat depending on how flexible you are. Popping out the instrument panel may help as well, although I haven't . . . yet. You'll most likely need to become very familiar with brake line fittings and a tubing bender, since chances are your 54 year old car is no longer exactly like it came from the factory. I received a complete brake pedal with the CSRP kit, that actually fell apart after I had it fully installed. Yes, it fell apart, where what they called a "spin weld" wasn't made, and are sending me another. I've always valued this car for being simple and reliable, but am beginning to think installing one of these kits will just make for more problems later on.
Hey Larry,
I’m having issues with the same brand. The calipers are hitting the lower ball joints. Basically I can’t fully turn my wheels to the right and left. Did this happen to you?
@@davidcleaves436 Nope. The calipers went on without an issue. You wouldn't have some type of non-factory type lower arms / ball joints would you?
Changing the booster is a real pain in the azz. It's not a drop in bolt up.
The CSRP booster is designed wrong. It uses bolts instead of the studs used by Ford. I have a video about it here. . . czcams.com/video/SgIB7HWuPE8/video.html@@jesse75
So which brake conversion should I go with you never said at the end of the video?
Thanks for the info. I am starting on getting my 67 back on the road and this was a kit I was looking at. What kit would you recommend
I personally think I will go with Wilwood next. The car doesn't need extremely aggressive brakes, but I like the usual Wilwood quality.
Should have bought and SSBC brakes one! Made in the USA! They have the original USA made Kelsey Hayes calipers with stainless steel pistons all e-coated. Bought that kit before, it's 100% made in China.
Not to dogpile on top of the kit you bought, (although it deserves it) but what’s with the brake hard line coming out of the caliper and then it’s routed to sit right beside the rotor? Am I wrong when I think that would absolutely boil the shit out of your brake fluid? Almost like it was done purposely?!? Or am I missing something?
I literally just watched the whole video just to hear the other kits you suggest... Unfortunately none were given.
I looked at the posting below and did not see part #s on what you went with after the fact....wish I would have see this before. I had and still have all the same problems you had. Please send me part #'s for the corrections you made.
You didn't mention a V8 spindle. Is that needed with all kits? If not, can you recommend on that doesn't need them? I'm going to be beefing up my I6 so it will be lighter and V8 spindles really not needed for cornering.
Spindle compatibility depends on the year. Many kits are for conversions, drum to disc and therefore use the drum spindle. 67 spindles are the same, drum or disc. 67-70 drum spindles are the same. 68-69 drum spindles are different than disc. 70 disc spindles are larger than all previous years. West Coast Classic Cougar has a great video for booster and master compatibility. I prefer using stock master and booster. I have several cars using different disc styles including a stock 67 4 piston Kelsey Hayes set up from chockostang, a 2005-10 disc swap mounting kit from Mustang Steve (uses 12.5" rotors!), and stock set ups. Like this guy, I have had nothing but issues from aftermarket boosters.
@@FE428Power Thanks for clarifying.
Did I miss the part about what kit this was? Did you change the brake pedal to a power pedal?
The part number for the kit is listed in the video. It comes with a new pedal as well as the car already having a power brake setup.
what kit you will recommend. Can you provide some links please
In my later video I showed the Wilwood 140-12945-D I used with the Maier Racing drop spindles. This was a much better solution. It gave me the beefier spindles with more durable bearings with good Wilwood hardware. The Maier Racing spindles needed a little tweaking to get right, but the company was awesome about answering my questions.
Straight roast 👏🏽
at the beginning of the video he said that in the end he would recommend some other kits he did not name any other kit or company what a was of time watching this
So you expected him to purchase and assess 8 other kits ?
He did say he changed to WILWOOD, didnt he.
I wonder what is going on at CJ Pony parts? I personally have never ordered from them, however, many have commented in many car videos of how bad their customer service is, etc etc. There are too many good Mustang part providers out there, so I will pass on CJPP for any future orders.
This makes it seem more appealing to use an oem set for perhaps a 6th generation Mustang if itll fit.
I totally agree. OEM parts will almost always be better than aftermarket unless you are spending serious money, and even then, you will be making a trade off. After this cheapo Chinese kit, I swapped the front over to Wilwoods and it was a massive leap in both quality and price, but very much worth it.
@@AmbiVe I have a '65 coupe myself that I wanted to convert to discs from drums. Wilwood would do for that?
Sure. I actually used Maier Racing drop spindles that let me up-size my wheel bearings while also bringing the car down about another inch. Between those and the Wilwoods kit I bought that fit the larger bearings, it was a great upgrade.
Did you change the brake pedal for the power unit?
Yes. It already had a power brake pedal, but I purchased a new one as the previous was modified and beat up by the previous owner. The new one also came with the power brake logo on the pad to make it clearer for other drivers or future owners.
What kit did you buy and who did you buy it from I’m looking to do the conversion on my 56 fast back
My current, best, solution is Maier Racing drop spindles with larger bearings, matching wildwood brakes, and stainless lines. You can look up the matching parts via Maier Racings site.
go with wilwood
I have a 65 fast back I’ve had for over 30 years it’s basically 2 cars did the front clip with my uncle when I was 7 it’s the only car that ever scared me later realized it as my uncles driving lol i put a rebuilt fuel injected 5.0 and t-5 out of a 92 fox body using the brake booster and master cylinder and had to merge the modified the pedal assemblys and all likes of crazy crap. I decided to do the whole IFS front end cut out my strut towers and all the mounts and brackets. Box in the rails and weld in a k member went with speed way motors this is not for some one who has little knowledge of sectioning replacing frame rails or suspension and alignment experience it would be easy to make a mess of this. I put everything together checking my numbers measurements and everything before I welded it in place. How ever I could not get the rest of the kit from speedway ie: the control arms drop spindles rack rotors ect……at fist thought it was just ok as I got in to it further finding many problems probably wasted 1200$ speed way motors has amazing customer service really helpful talked to real live people gear head no people emailed sent pictures in detail no reply so far. I’ve been researching these kits for a long time I work in a large collision shop been doing structural repairs for over 20 years even did a lot of restoration (insurance work pays the bills) especially if you get DRPs. Research research do you diligence because there is a lot of people selling absolute shit for parts. Im gonna try to include pictures what really sucks is I had everything in the engine compartment done when I decided to change to IFS
I'm now scared cuz the Ratech rear outer axle bearings are also made in China.. I hope Ratech has got a good quality control.
These were really cheap bearings, they didn't even really have branding, just "China" on the side and terrible tolerances. When I replaced the cheap brakes, I used Timken bearings and haven't had any issues in several years and many several hundred mile road trips.
I'm looking at Kentucky Mustang for my 65 what are your thoughts?
I have never bought anything from them but they seem decent. I have had pretty good luck with some of the smaller and family owned businesses for parts.
@@AmbiVe can you post them??
@@stevenpo1963 It depends what specifically you are shopping for. If it is brake systems, I would encourage trying to see some of whatever kit it is installed and used. You can be pretty safe quality-wise with the major brands. The fit and finish of the Wilwood products tend to be really good and not as costly as some of the higher end brands. Everything depends on the budget.
Well I just bought it with some leaf springs I let everyone know
I like the review the Doctor said czcams.com/video/tHPo87BsrtA/video.html
The cheapest is the dearest in the end!
I think you would be better off finding a trashed Granada and taking the disc brakes from it. Not as fancy but you don't need four piston calipers or drilled and slotted rotors if you not racing. Replacement parts can be had at you local parts store as well. How well will it stop? My Versailles can stop dime and did when asked. I'm sure the dummy in the smart car who pulled in front of well I was doing 55 was happy about that.
I agree. That's solid advice. This car is raced a bit and that's why this was more of an experiment to see if it was worth the savings. Right after testing this kit, we swapped the car over to drop spindles with larger bearings and Wildwoods.
Willwood or Baer would be wise. I haven't bought ant yet for my 67 but have used them on other classics. Pricey? Absolutely, but lets not make 400hp and not upgrade brakes. This is not criticism. You are saving people money and time.
'
Buying these was almost more curiosity than anything. I will be doing another video at some point comparing these, the StopTech on the S2000, Wilwood on an unshown project, and Wilwood on the 240Z, just so everyone has quality references for the future.
I will be putting the Willwoods on my '58 T Bird.
So what is the best set up out there that don’t cost a fortune....Scott drake.?
It really depends on what you consider a fortune. Mixing OE parts would get you there cheaply if you had the time to research which were the best combination of parts. Scott Drake would probably be one of the safest cheaper options, but cost points dictate quality to some extent. I will do a video comparing this kit with a Wilwood kit in the near future as an example of the differences of what the extra money gets.
what brand is that. is it called power brakes? i just bought one and i'm hoping it isn't junk
It didn't have a brand marking, but it must be some kind of Chinese knockoff based on everything else in the kit. It is very hit or miss with these aftermarket boosters. If this one goes out, I'm switch the car to manual brakes or using a factory booster from another vehicle.
@@AmbiVe Ever heard of the brand master power? that the one i have. do you know if it's any good
I think it's one of the generic ones sold under several brands or copied from a common design. I would bet it's the same as the one I threw away but I don't know for sure.
I wish you luck! Hopefully you got a good one that will last you.
@@AmbiVe ya i hope so. big bucks for those
Sounds exactly like my luck!
You could've also gotten the DOT required part no. and bought a high end bearing still reasonably cheap.
Are you suggesting buying all the parts for a factory disc car and swapping that on instead of an aftermarket disc brake kit? That is an option, but the intention was to see if this kit that purported to include "everything" for a disc brake conversion actually did and if it was any good. If you sourced the parts individually for a disc brake car and swapped all of them over to a non-disc car like this, you would still be getting aftermarket calipers, rotors, booster, bias valve, master cyclinder, etc, unless you pull from another parts car directly. Very few true factory parts are still in production, so a lot would be used and you would have a host of issues there as well.
The best option is just to actually buy name brand parts as I say in my other videos when we swap over to larger drop spindles with a Wilwood kit.
@@AmbiVe not what I intended, merely using the bearing part number for the parts that were being replaced. I certainly couldn't afford to buy all factory parts and as I understand it the point was to install a relatively inexpensive system that was both reliable and safe.
Ah, sorry. Technically, these did match the parts code for replacement bearings, but they are just poorly made. Timken makes better matching parts that I have not had issue with.
@@AmbiVe which proves my point. The same D.O.T. stamped part from a quality manufacturer would be a vast improvement over a D.O.T. stamped part from another country. The identifier refers to the physical measurements, not necessarily the quality.
I’m purchasing a 1969 mustang in good conditions for 4K, and I’m looking to restore it myself but I don’t have much experience :( I only watch CZcams videos.
Depending on how much work it needs, you can do a lot of it yourself. Body & paint and really delicate welding are usually the hardest for us average people to do in a garage with cheaper tools. It just depends how perfect you try to get.
AmbiVe thanks for responding. Is it okay if I email you for help whenever I need it? Please and and thank you in advance.
Sure, I can always try to help out with tips or advice. Hitting me up on the Ambive Facebook page is usually the easiest since my day job buries me in emails.
I bought a 66 coupe that was supposed to only need two repairs... No that wasn't the case at all. But I have learned a ton of stuff from CZcams and have completely enjoyed rebuilding my mustang.
In my opinion that is one of the most important parts of the hobby. There's always more to learn and ways to improve, but progress on a project is extremely fulfilling.
Hate to say this but I have a hard time believing the bearings on both sides failed right away that’s flat out installer error ..Bearings get cooked from being over tightened ! Snug the nut with plyers basically when you feel them ever so slightly snug up while spinning the rotor that’s it ..using a torque wrench is not a good idea ..if you cannot get the cotter pin lined up loosen it until you get it in . You better off slightly loose (“slight “play) than slightly tight. I’ve done this for a living and still do for over 30yrs when this style was the norm and never had a bearing go bad let alone in a week cheap or not !
Only one side had failed, the other was just as poor looking as when they first were installed. The replacement bearings were installed exactly the same way and have been on the car 2 1/2 years without issue. The only difference being that these are a name brand and did not have the same defective fitment in the races.
So how to install a kit that you should not buy. great very helpful thanks. Could have said that in about 30 seconds though.
Great info, very articulated.
I will buy the better kit cuz....fuk all that
👍
This is essentially a copy of the original Kelsey-Hays factory disc brakes. When you lock the nut the trick is to spin the rotor while you tighten the nut until it stops spinning easily. That Chinese kit is problematic and I generally only use Timkin bearings.
That's the problem with any of these cheap solutions. I followed the exact same process with better bearings and they lasted until I pulled the kit. The Wildwood kit with Timkin bearings I replaced this kit with had zero issues.
Won't lie, the finish on the calipers itself would make me doubt the quality of this kit.
Is this the kit by ssbc?
I do not believe this kit has a specific manufacturer listed with it on CJ Pony Parts, which leads me to believe it's a mix and match of various suppliers for a budget solution.
Definitely not SSBC, I have them on my car. No issues all.
At 6:00 you said the bearing retaining nut "only needs about 14 pounds" if you're talking ft.-lb., I know why your bearings failed, and you cant blame china. That's way WAAAAYYYY to tight.
Ha, good catch. I meant in/lbs, though the shop manual for a 67 does specify 17-25 ft/lbs then 1/2 back off, then torque to 10-15 in/lbs.
Good man. Thanks for the clarification. I think I have that same manual for my '68. Ford motor co. printed in 1967. ;) Keep them vids comin!
Junkyard will provide many Fords from which you can pick
I use torque sticks and hit every lug nut twice
Where is the accountability today? Honestly, these parts distributors like CJ's and the rest of them should be getting every one of these kits back in a pile, and misfitting body panels etc. as well, and then the parts distributors should be sending all this unacceptable garbage back to the original suppliers, and demanding their money back. The source needs to receive every bit of this crap back, and have to refund every bit of money. Accountability. We end up not holding these people to account because of the hassle.....but really we should.
Kentucky brake conversion kit 65 to 70 mustang
StreetOrTrack and done...
I'll make sure to avoid CJ pony parts or this specific kit for my upcoming conversion on my Ford.
Thanks.
Don't run the brake booster.
Dont buy from C&J pony I never deal with them anymore the parts are trash and so is the customer service.
I'm sure it gave you problems. But your rant shows your lack of understanding of a braking system. This was a combination of poor manufacturing tolerances and incorrect installation.
Won't buy cj classics. Thanks
Talking about cheap Chinese crap! Try not to buy a new ignition switch!