Ford Godzilla 7.3 Disturbing Oil Analysis Results
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- We got a bad report card for our oil analysis from Blackstone on our Ford Godzilla 7.3 gas engine. We picked the gasser because we were tired of all the problems with our previous PowerStroke diesel engine. I'm disappointed to report that we got some troubling news with our oil analysis report, at only 24,500 miles on our Ford Godzilla 7.3 V8 in our F350 Super Duty truck. Does this mean we're having lifter and cam shaft delamination? Early symptoms. High iron content in ppm. Next steps. #oilanalysis #godzilla #superduty #purplecollarlife
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Published May 7, 2023
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That fifth wheel will be considered hard use.
Thanks, you’re right. As a reminder to myself, I looked up the towing guide. Our configuration truck is rated for about 15,900 lbs towing by 5th wheel hitch. So we’re at about 75% of the total capacity. I would classify that as hard use. www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/resources/general/pdf/guides/21Towing_Ford_SuperDuty_PU_Dec3.pdf
@Purple Collar Life you will also see in the manual that they call for 5w40 oil for hard use and 6k mile oil change intervals. However I run 5w30 full synthetic in my 7.3 and change every 10k. 165k on the engine doing nothing but pulling a gooseneck trailer with no issues thus far.
Isn't that the reason for buying the 7.3l?
I would just change the oil every 5k miles regardless of oil life monitor status. Cheap insurance. Great video!
Seeing tons of videos of the 7.3 failing. I don't trust ford at all anymore.
I wouldn't let a dealership change my mind let alone my oil. Also, it's very important that the sample is not taken at the very beginning of the drain and not at the very end either, it's best to grab a sample of the oil somewhere in the middle of the drain process so you don't get skewed results. Also I see a lot of oil analysis from different aircraft and my plane specifically and there is a lot of variation from one sample to the next. Your results mean nothing at this point but it's really good to do them to see trends over time. Catastrophic failure of the camshaft is not likely going to be caught on an oil analysis, once it goes it would just let go with little or no significant lead time/warning. So don't worry about it enjoy the truck!
Thanks for the tips and insight!
You don’t have a problem until you know you have a problem. Worries don’t help anything out. Use a good quality oil and you should be fine.
Thanks for watching!
If the dealer pulled the sample for you , bear in mind that dealers suck the oil out into a vacuum tank. If that’s where they took your sample from, it could’ve been contaminated from a previous customer’s oil. Next time maybe ask them specifically to take it from the oil filter when they remove it, then you’ll know it’s just your oil.
Interesting! I thought they drained it like I would at home.
@@PurpleCollarLife I’d be very surprised if they did. Sucking it out via the dipstick tube has been a common practice since the 90s
It would certainly be worth confirming it with them.
Granted I don't know about this engine but I highly doubt they suck it out. I worked at Nissan and we always drained everything the standard way.
@@markbyfield7050 sucking engine oil out is almost exclusivly a car thing or small SUV/crossover........ particullary german stuff and some niche japanese vehicles...... AFAIK. you cannot suck oil out of the ford Truck engines (any of them) for that matter and nobody does.
@@justnsaliga8518 Roger that, I stand corrected! Times change and I'm old lol.
I personally wouldn’t have anyone else do my oil changes but me at this point. Changing the oil is quick and relatively easy and you know what products you put in it.
I got a free oil change when I bought my 2021 RAM diesel HO and after one oil change and then leaving oil stains around the fill and dip stick I’ve not gone back. I do it myself and feel much better about the entire process. Good luck.
I’ve typically always changed my own oil for the same reasons as you. But with the new-to-us truck, I wanted to use some of my Ford points for free oil changes and also have the dealership have a record of doing the work because of our extended warranty. You’re absolutely right though - it’s easy (and actually enjoyable) to change the oil myself. And it lets you know it’s all done the right way.
@@PurpleCollarLife I also have an extended warranty on my truck and still do my own work. Just keep record of everything you do to the truck at at what mileage and you’ll be fine. Check with Ford to make sure but I was told this by multiple people and one worked at my dealership. Best of luck!
What year truck did you get the oil analysis on?
Running a independent shop I keep records of everything I do to customers vehicles. I also deal with aftermarket extended warranties and I never have an issue with them when I show the service records of the vehicle needing repairs.
I agree...really easy to do on a pickup because you typically won't need to jack it up to get under it, a car or one of the various crossovers and suvs you might, but even then it isn't that difficult.
I also change my oil every 3k instead of the 5k that is shown in the normal use section...I go by the extreme conditions section on all my vehicles. Oil/filters are cheap, engines, transmissions are not.
I’ve used blackstone for the past 70,000 miles every 7500 miles on my cummins. I had a few high numbers at the early miles. A couple have always been higher then average but I found out it was from rotella’s oil additive in the T-6. Blackstone has always told me not to worry. Now I’m worrying about the grid heater bolt falling in the intake. LoL I think the 7.3 ford gasser is the best of the big three. Hang in there
Thanks for sharing! This was our first experience with using Blackstone Labs. I can’t believe I haven’t done this before. We have multiple cars over 100,000 miles - I’m definitely going to send the oil out for analysis with those. It would have been a good idea to have them tested all along to be able to compare the readings over time.
The grid heater bolt thing is a real concern. I am considering getting the Banks intake so I can delete that grid heater bolt issue. Thankfully I am not driving the truck much other than farm chores so I am not feeling too pressured to do it right away. But it is on my list to do.
You said you read all the comments so let me try to help you out. I am the fleet manager for a delivery company, we have 15 2020 Ford F-59's and E-450's/350's with the Godzilla engine and the 6R140 transmission. WHEN your transmission starts shifting hard, it's the valve body NOT the transmission itself. Replace the valve body and you're good to go. The OE spark plugs are wires are junk and over priced. Buy iridium plugs and aftermarket wires, the ones I use have ceramic boots on them rated for 2200F and are for racing. Next, oil and oil change intervals. The Godzilla was built from the ground up for commercial use, iron block aluminum heads push rod big bore V8. It was designed for 10k oil change's. I use 15w-40 diesel oil in my fleet, I also have diesels and these Godzilla's are replacing those as they are retired. I change the oil every 10k, I am religious about PM's. I also use Blackstone for oil samples. Now for the numbers on one of my trucks, a E-450 with the Godzilla, sample was taken at 60k, just shy of 10k on this oil change. I'm just going to post the numbers going down the list-2-0-12-0-0-1-2-0-0-0-0-2-3-7-7-2487-30-868-1047-0. TBN is 2.6. They recommend going 11k between PM's. But here is the thing, my trucks are on the road 6 days a week, fully loaded, dirt roads, expressway, running for 8-10hrs a day making deliveries and pick ups. 100F summer days, 0F winter days. 5w-20 is the wrong oil for this engine, the ONLY reason Ford uses it is because of the EPA. The easiest way to increase MPG is to reduce the resistance inside the crank case, a thinner oil is easier to push through the engine. You only gain fractions of MPG, but across the entire Ford line up this add's up. And it makes it easy at the dealership, one oil for all gas engines. I do not know how you're using your truck, if it's for work or play, but I recommend not going to the dealer for service, you can do it yourself. Super easy. 13mm socket, oil filter is right next to the drain plug, 8qts of oil. Resetting the oil monitor is easy too. I recommend a full synthetic 5w-30 if all you're using it for is towing your toys and commuting. My trucks get 1,000+ miles a week. Oil changes are every time there is a "0" 3rd from the left. This unit was due at 60k, it was changed at 59,896, its next one was due at 70k, it was changed at 70,347, next one iOS 80k. I don't worry about the 100's, sometimes they go over, sometimes they get PM'd early. I have one of these engines with 120k and the oil sample at 100k said this engine is half its age. That being said, this engine just collapsed a lifter. This is the only one of my fleet to do so so far. We caught it early, going to change the lifters and send it back on the road. Moral of the story? This is a common problem with these engines, how you maintain it makes all the difference in when it'll happen.
I definitely do read every comment. Thank you for the detailed information you’ve shared here. This will be very helpful to me and many others! I always ran the 15W-40 in my PowerStroke. I’m planning on changing my own oil in the Godzilla from here on out. You’re exactly right about the build of this engine- it was designed for heavy use and to be simple yet reliable.
I appreciate the tips on the valve body on the transmission, and the oil change interval and use. Ours is just towing the toys and commuting. How do you feel about Mobil 1 synthetic? Is there another synthetic brand you prefer? Something like Amsoil?
I’ve not changed the oil in this truck myself yet, but am used to changing them myself with my previous vehicles. I was just trying to maintain the records of maintenance at the dealership. But I can maintain the oil change records myself - even documenting them in these videos! :) I’m glad to hear the filter is easy to get off and located conveniently. That’s been a problem on some other vehicles I’ve had.
We truly appreciate your comment. Thank you for sharing your expertise. Keep us posted in the future!
@@PurpleCollarLife in my Land Cruiser I use Castrol Edge (black bottle) 5w-40 European formula, I have over 300k on it, 10k oil changes and it doesn't use a single drop. It is my work truck, my office and my personal truck. I carry 300lbs of tools in the back at all times and pull a trailer several days a week loaded with supplies for my fleet in another state, 19.5" tires mounted on rims, jugs of DEF, truck parts, whatever I need. So I drive a lot, 40-50k a year. Oil selection as well as oil change intervals are highly dependent on usage. For you, a quality oil filter (I use Baldwin and Donaldson for my fleet) and a high quality full synthetic motor oil with changes based on what the oil monitor tells you. On my trucks it says to change the oil right around 8k, depending on the driver it comes on as soon as 6k. How it's driven makes a TON of difference on the Maintence monitor. In my humble opinion, full syn, quality filter, follow the Maintence monitor and you'll be fine. Also, buy a trans oil pan from an earlier 6R140, it has a factory installed drain plug to make trans service a breeze. I've done this to my fleet, drain and fill the trans fluid at 50k, filter and fluid at 100k. The gasket is reusable. I use Valvoline MaxLife ATF in my fleet, it also works in my Toyota as well as my diesels with the Allison trans, it is also what the power steering system on all of my trucks take. Managing a fleet means I need simple, one trans fluid, one motor oil, one gear oil, etc.
The Duke says, I don't think motorcraft oil is the problem.
I'm using it now on my 2023 7.3 Godzilla. 19,000 mi no problems so far. Before this truck I had a 6.2 boss. I used Mobil 1 full synthetic and the motor lasted until 417,000. At that time I had camshaft pitting so I put a new motor.
It was a reman motor from ford. I then switched from mobile one to Motorcraft 5W-20 and the motor lasted until I wrecked the truck at 948,000 mi. So that's 531,000 mi. More than the original motor. In my opinion whatever is going on with the Godzilla has nothing to do with the oil. I'm thinking it may be the metallurgy of the camshaft or the lifters. If it were the oil pump as some people saying than all Godzilla motors would be failing but this is not true.
Just my two cents. What did I teach you?
That is a beautiful truck. When I was towing my trailer, I would faithfully change oil at 3K. This 5K and 10K oil change stuff is crazy. Fingers crossed that everything will be good! Great update!
Thanks for always following our stories! I’m going to go with 3000 mile oil changes for a while now.
@@PurpleCollarLife That is likely a very wise move.
9000 mile oil change is what the maintenance light requires? I would definitely do it every 5K with 5W-20. This can only help. Ford should recall these trucks and put in improved rocker rollers before these trucks fail. Someone needs to manufacture 3rd party replacements because Ford has a bad track record on fixing problems like this. Just look at the 6.0l diesels that Ford ignored the EGR/Oil coolers on which can cause catastrophic failures. Someone else had to create a "Bullet proof" fix for it.
5w20 is too lite an oil for a big engine like that towing heavy stuff. Change to a 5w40 and see what happens. Hopefully you don't have rough cam or lifter surfaces already.
I agree, I change the oil in my vehicles at 3k...5k might not be so bad but the 7-14k+ range is way out of line, regardless what oil you use, that isn't a good interval to follow at all, everyone drives their vehicles in extreme conditions (short trips, start stop traffic, towing, hauling, cold starts, hard driving, etc.), everyone should be following the extreme use intervals for services....and your maintenance reminder can be readjusted to come on at 3k....oil is a heck of a lot cheaper than a major mechanical failure.
Another one that people ignore is change your transmission fluid every 50k at least, even sooner if you are doing heavy towing.
People have fallen for this lifetime fluid crap, so they just kick back and relax because their dealer told them the fluid never needs changed...nope, it needs changed and with today's fluid temps being so high, the more often you change the fluids the better off you are for the long term.
A second follow up analysis is a great idea. I would recommend that you slightly shorten your oil change interval. 4000 miles max. I would also recommend you dig deeper into motor oils and examine the different additive packages the oil manufacturer use. Valvoline and Penzoil additive packages may surprise you on there superior ( in my opinion) additives. Best of Luck. Continue down this path will give you a wealth of knowledge.
We’re going to go with 3000 mile intervals through the summer. In the summer, we do much more towing (camping and boating) and it will be good to get some fresh oil and more oil samples taken during this time.
You are 100% correct. Change the oil much sooner then Ford tells you. We always recommend 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. It doesn't matter what manufacturer it is.
Never base results on one oil sample take at least a couple more then average it out.also how did dealer take sample.should be take from middle of oil drain not out of filter or from another container.
I would be very interested to see an oil sample result that was taken from an engine that had a confirmed lifter / cam failure. I would look into that. Try and find some folks that had the failure that also had oil sample analysis done.
Me too! I am going to reach out to Blackstone Lab and see if they have a report from just before or during an engine failure from this lifter/cam failure issue. Great idea. Thanks for watching and making the suggestion.
@@PurpleCollarLife Some of these trucks also had a cracked oil pump drive gear although, I doubt that would put much iron in the oil. I purchased my 2022 F350 last June and have almost 7,000 miles on it. I did my first oil change at 2,500 miles and my second at 5,000 miles. I planned on running it out to 10,000 miles before changing it again. I think I will get an oil analysis done at 10,000 miles to establish a base line and then check it again at 20,000.
I've watched all your videos on this truck and have a 35 foot fifth wheel that I tow. The nose of mine is more square and less aerodynamic than yours but I can't see to do much better than 5 - 6 MPG when towing. How fast do you drive when towing your fifth wheel. I live in Michigan so it's not like I'm running up and down any mountains. I had a 2022 long box that I picked up in Ohio because I thought my truck would never be built. When I got the news my truck was being built I decided to get the truck I ordered in the crew cab short bed configuration. I never got a chance to tow with the long box truck but I do regret not keeping it. The 34 gallon gas tank is a real pain when towing. Especially when I'm only getting 5 mpg. I have to stop for gas after 150 miles. I may eventually drop the $3,000 for the 58 gallon tank from transfer flow but for now that's not in the budget. I may just need to slow down to save gas.
UOA can be a good troubleshooting tool. As a very experienced OEM engine guy, the ONLY way to determine wear is to disassemble and measure. But Blackstone and other companies really mislead customers. 29ppm Fe is normal for pushrod engines. Period, end of story. 250ppm would be excessive. And whether it is 9 or 29, it is not likely to mean anything with regard to wear rates. The only thing you, as a consumer, can use UOA results for is to follow a trend.
This is extremely informative! Thank you for sharing with me and the other viewers. Much appreciated. I won’t worry so much now.
I have watched your videos reminded of the year of your truck. I have a 21 built in May of 21. Great video now I want to send my oil in. I ordered my truck took 6 months to get been great so far. I only have 12.5 k on it. Thank you for the information.
Our truck is a 2020. I’m not sure of the build date. I’m so glad that I sent the oil in for the analysis! Thanks for watching! I’d love to hear your analysis results after you send yours in. Keep me posted! Thanks.
The oil sample company really takes care of business first class👍👍👍
Yes they do
I picked up my 7.3 DRW about a month ago, I will be pulling the sample myself and sending it to Blackstone. Will reply to your vids when it’s time. Appreciate the content.
Thanks! Keep us posted when you have time.
Second-gen PSD owner here (2017 King Ranch). The only issue I have had with my diesel is that a bolt on the manifold snapped at around 140k miles. Almost at 150k now with zero issues. I change the oil and oil filters every 5k and the fuel filters every 10k. So far it's a great truck.
Thanks for sharing! That’s great to hear. There were lots of things we liked about our previous F350 - obviously, because we kept it 17 years! But the maintenance and repair bills were really adding up. Over $7000 last summer. It just was too frustrating to keep dumping money into it, thinking it was 100% fixed, and then having something else go wrong.
@@PurpleCollarLife Jesus! That's the cost of an entire DPF and then some! I hope the 7.3 works out better for you!
@@GuretoSefirosu Thanks!
My 2020 personal use F250 7.3 that I use to drive to work and back. Have not towed anything the 7.3 started a screeching type ticking at 52,430 miles. Took is to the dealership and had to have a new engine put in it. 2,000 miles on the new engine and no issues yet.
Thanks for sharing. Keep us posted on that new engine.
I’ve got a 2021 7.3 with 20,000 miles. Been changing oil at 4000 miles with Motorcraft 5-30 semi synthetic as the book says. Pull a horse trailer and flatbed. All good so far.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Aint it funny how we all care so much about a trucks blood tests and which oil to feed it when, and how much it idles or what load it shouldn’t pull, but when it comes to our own bodies-worth more than every truck in the world-we seem to care less …what we feed ourselves and ignore blood testing or results, and skip exercise. Could you imagine us all being picky like we are with motor oils with our food? Lol
This is an excellent point that my wife brings up all the time. We probably all should eat more like Tom Brady.
edifying observation. will stick with me. parallels are poignant.
I wouldn’t worry too much yet Chad, you don’t know how the truck was taken care of before you got it so now that you’ve had it you had the oil changed you can keep track now and you know what’s going in and out of the truck. I would wait until your next oil change and see if that number drops with your own maintenance being done to it since you found it and hopefully it’s back down in the normal range. I had a similar scare I bought a 99 7.3 power stroke which I think I’ve mentioned on the channel before with only 97,000 original miles I had the oil analysis done on the oil after I gave it its first oil change after I bought it and it was high in iron and aluminum And I freaked out and thought the motor was shot and I was duped when buying the truck etc. but yet doing the blow by test I could put a golf ball inside the oil cap hole and it wouldn’t even move there was zero blow by so that was a little reassuring that the motor was in good shape.
So I talked to Blackstone and they told me the same thing that I told you above that I didn’t know how the maintenance was done before I got it they probably neglected to change it for a longer interval so I had a higher metals in it and to wait till the next oil change so I did as they requested and after the next analysis After my personal oil change all the numbers were back in normal range and have been ever since. So there’s still hope that your truck is fine wishing the best for you on this issue.
Thanks for the advice! I’m looking forward to the next oil analysis and hearing what Blackstone thinks with the next set of numbers. You’re right - it may just be some residual of the previous owner’s treatment of the truck. Glad to hear that your 7.3 PowerStroke ended up being great! :) Thanks for watching.
I have a 21 with 11000 miles and have changed oil 3 times and have done samples on all of them through amsoil and my samples have been disturbing as well. I dont have it front of me at the time, but i will have to look at it again. I am thinking of changing mine at 3000-3500 miles.
I’ll be very interested to hear your results! Please come back and post them as a comment when you get a chance. Thanks!
I’m still on the fence buying this engine and truck. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching! We still love the engine and truck. We are very glad that we found the blue oval Certified Used Ford truck though - so that we have the 100,000 mile power train warranty on it.
I opted for the old 6.2 Boss and the 6-speed transmission on my 2020 F-250 after I test drove a few very abused work trucks with that combination. One truck I drove had over 7K engine hours and it ran great, no noise or smoke at cold start.
Best drivetrain you can get, this coming from a guy with a new 7.3 10-speed
That's great! I know some people with the 6.2 and they wouldn't trade it. :)
Thanks for sharing!
At 2300 miles I changed and sampled the oil in the 7.3 in my motorhome. 22 ppm iron, 20 ppm copper, 60 ppm silicon, and 2.6% fuel dilution were the outliers. I use Oil Analyzers for testing, and they noted the factory fill was likely 5w-30 based on viscosity.
Thank you for sharing your oil analysis numbers! I’m wondering why our oil viscosity tested out as 5W-20. That concerns me. Any idea what Oil Analyzers costs for their testing? Did they give any explanations for those outlier numbers? I really appreciate you sharing your info. This is very helpful.
@@PurpleCollarLife Oil Analyzers full service test kit (Kit06) is $21.65 preferred customer pricing through AMSOIL. The silicon is likely from the sealants used in the assembly of the engine, though I was asked to inspect the air intake for leaks. There were none. Copper typically comes from oil coolers, but can also come from some bearings. This is a 2022 build E450 chassis. It was assembled in Indiana and driven (hard) by the manufacturer to California where I bought it at 2165 miles. I've sampled alot of engines in my time. I'm not concerned seeing 22ppm at 2300 miles given that it was driven hard. I do have my eye on that 2.6% fuel though. I'm not shocked by your 29ppm iron given the fact it seems like the servicing dealer filled it with 5w-20 and you use your truck. This is why I service my own. There's just no guarantee any of the work will be performed properly unless you personally know the mechanic.
@@jimtruett8130 In my experiences silicon is sand(dirt)
@@mickeythompson1562 I’ve seen high silicon in multiple new engines I have sampled. All with good filtration and no traces of dust in any of the intake piping. If there were any signs of dust in the piping, or of a compromised air filter I would believe that in this case. Unless Jayco drove it around on their lot with the intake system removed, or Ford isn’t running a clean production line, the most likely source is bleed from the sealants in this case. If it does not drop sharply next sample there is investigation needed.
@@mickeythompson1562his truck only had 2300 miles when he sampled it. The silicone sealers were still leaching into the oil. That’s why he saw high silicone numbers.
Even if that motor completely blew up and you had to replace it . The cost wont be anywhere near the replacement of a diesel. I have a diesel and cant fathom a catastrophic failure. I understand the worry but id have to imagine if something major was going to happen it would happen early on.
That’s very true. AND - we do have the 100,000 mile warranty on the power train of our truck. That’s part of the reason I let the dealership do the oil changes. Typically - I do my own oil changes and maintenance. Thanks for watching!
Exactly why I traded my 2017 in for the 7.3. That diesel never gave me any trouble, but what if.....? To me, this gas engine is not as stressful as having a diesel. I ran em for 24 years and ain't looking back.
High iron content alone isn't much of a concern. Probably still some break-in going on. Iron is probably from cylinder bores only. If you had excessive wear of the cam or lifters you would see high elements such as chromium, magnesium, molyb, and whatever other alloy elements that Ford uses for high wear surfaces. I get it though, none of us like to see anything high in our analysis. If I were you I would be taking samples of every oil change for the foreseeable future. Once the numbers stabilize you'll get that warm and fuzzy feeling back.
This is great info! Thanks.
I’ve been looking to get a 7.3 for a truck camper. I am concerned about the life of these engines. I may need to stay with a 21 v8 Tundra and get a smaller rv trailer for my retirement travels. Thanks for the video I’ll look for the second oil analysis video
Thanks for watching! We will keep you posted.
Install a Fumoto valve in place of your oil drain plug. Makes draining your oil and getting a sample a breeze.
I’ve never tried the Fumoto valve. But I’m going to look into it!
We're just over 9000 miles and did the 2nd oil change. We collected a sample, and our iron was 7ppm. Our sample was taken directly from the oil pan.
Next time you have the oil changed ask the tech directly to do it from the oil pan. 29 is EXTREMELY HIGH, and could have easily come from a contaminated oil collection machine.
We have ALMOST the identical truck, just a 22 with the 4:30 gears, 7.3L, dual alternators/batteries (not sure if you got that in yours).
I'll be doing a sample per year just to keep an eye on it. So far, all but ONE of the 7.3's I've heard having issues have been 2020's with high idle times. Both of my local dealer shops confirmed they have NOT seen it in the newer trucks. The one outside the 2020 was a 7.3L in a cab/chassis dually that had been supercharged by some less than stellar backyard mechanic.
Thanks for sharing!
Just had my oil analysis done at 26k. Luckily mine was within normal ranges of each mineral and the feedback from Blackstone was positive in the Notes. I plan to do this every other oil change to monitor potential wear
Thanks for sharing! I’m really glad to hear that at 26,000 miles, your truck’s oil report card from Blackstone all came back with good scores. I’m planning on doing another oil analysis as soon as I get to 3000 miles to see if there is a difference. About how often do you change the oil?
@@PurpleCollarLife every 4-5k miles. It’s my daily so it sees a lot of quick trips into town.
I have been running Blackstone tests for over a decade on my Power strokes and my Mercury Verado Outboard. Good data point. I wouldn't stress too much about this read. One data point isn't a trend. Run the normal oil change interval and see what the next read looks like. If I had a couple data points of high metals I'd take to the dealer and at least document it. I also agree with asking Blackstone if they have any known failure 7.3's with similar reports or were theirs worse??? Nice truck!
Excellent point. We will be doing another analysis in the coming months (once we get to 3000 miles). This will be interesting too, because we tow much more in the summer with camping and boating. The interval will be shorter, and the use will be harder.
I got a 1996 f350 7.3 with over 500,000 miles and still going strong
Those 7.3 engines were amazing.
I run and work the piss out of mine 2020 approaching 70k and just keeps running stronger I always use top quality oil products . I must be one of the lucky ones just had a plug wire misfire at 15k I change oil between 5and 7 k Best gas engine I've ever owned no more use for the costly diesel engine
That’s great to hear! What oil have you been using? What filter? I’m curious. So far - we haven’t had any issues with the plug wires, but I’ve read about that problem. Did you eliminate it by switching to the “D” part plug wires? Or the “C”?
I have a 2020 F-250 XLT FX4 with the Godzilla. Currently has about 36000kms on it and every single km has been hard working mileage. It pushes snow all winter in 4x4 and it pulls my 5000lb triaxle float with my 7000lb tractor or its pulling my 4800lb dump trailer with my 9000lb skidsteer. Never had a oil analysis done on it but it has had the A/C compressor replaced at 33000kms and had the passenger door latches replaced under a TSB for my truck. Other then that it’s been a really solid rig.
Thank you for sharing your experience! That is great to hear.
Keep the next oil change interval as close to the previous as possible. If you decrease the interval the numbers will need more "interpretation" and you'll have to guess a little more on the trend. If you're using a decent synthetic oil 5k intervals are plenty adequate.
Nice tip! We’ll certainly keep that in mind. Thank you for watching.
I never go over 5000 mikes between oil changes on my 7.3 or previous 6.7. My friend a long time mechanic told me the manufacturers say 10k on my 6.7 or when dash tells u change the oil is so they can sell you an engine.
That's probably a good rule of thumb. In the summer months when we rack the miles up pretty quickly, it can be hard to do it at such short intervals (3000 miles) - but that's probably the best practice when I'm putting on the towing miles so quickly.
Good video. If you have a 100,000 mile power train warranty, personally, I’d quit doing the oil analysis. It’s just costing you money and stressing you out. Lol. Just drive the truck and stick with 5k intervals using a full synthetic. The engine is either gonna break or run good, and you’re good either way. I use Costco Kirkland full synthetic 5w-30 and buy 10 quarts for $30 when it’s on sale.
Thanks!
Most sensible comment here.
So same cam lobe issues I read in the early years of the 6.2l debut. Oil use was 5w-20.
My 2018 says use 5w-30 which I did until i started towing11.2k (mine is a FX4) during summer shredding seasons and out of town work.
Noticed oil change reminder came on after second trip out of town job and the oil change only had less then3k on it!
Now I use Rotella T6 5w-40. Because the oil I drained out was so black the guy that owns the NAPA shop told me he has never seen such black oil from a non-diesel truck!
That pretty much sealed the deal for me. I'm still a 5k mile oil change guy.
Another thing the 6.2l does not have the variable speed oil pump as the 7.3l.
The low oil flow from high idle times probably contributes to cam metal spalling.
If user does not have high idle time (delivery trucks for example) then it should not be a issue.
Good info, thanks for sharing all this...
Well I can tell you we just lost a 7.3 at 38k. It's in a 450 service truck and cyl 7 is misfiring. Cam and/or lifter issue, waiting for Ford to decide the fix.
Oh, no! That's horrible. Keep us posted.
just heard from Ford Dealer here in NH. Lifter and Cam are wiped out in Cyl 7. They are putting in a whole new motor. They are not saying much other than we have seen this before. We currently have 28 of these 450's on order this year. I hope this was a hardening issue with the cam and/or lifter surfaces on the early releases. I would hate to think this is something due to low oil pressure at idle. We do idle a lot.
I ordered my truck with a darker color and now I wished I had just ordered it in white. The colors look nice when clean, but didn't take long and you can see the dust, and every little splash etc from driving on the gravel roads to my place. So that is my one regret. I wish I would have just gotten white.
I did order the diesel and so far I am happy with the diesel choice, but then again I don't put many miles on the truck. I use it for truck work on the farm. That work comes in bursts around here. So far no worries yet on the diesel.
I hope it works out for you on the 7.3. I too had heard about the delamination issues and eating engines. Ford had some issues in the Mustang for a couple of years with the Coyote, but I thought they had sorted that out. So it seems strange that Ford is having the same issue on the Godzilla. I hope your next report looks better.
Thanks for watching! We're almost due for an oil change. I hope the results level out.
9ppm for average 5700 miles is primarily daily drivers. Towing a big ass camper with a gas engine will always be considered hard use
Thanks for watching!
My neighbor had to hire legal representation to help resolve issues with his Ford truck. Personally I'd get a couple oil changes through her to ensure the wear in point and make sure the filter is getting replaced.
Stealerships have no issues with leaving the old oil filter with their "complementary" oil change.
I crawl under the truck after any dealership oil change and write with sharpie the date on the oil filter. That way I can remember when it was done (and verify the filter was changed out). :)
An industry that is heavily regulated to the point it's a monopoly and taxpayer funded (fascism), it's unfortunate an oil change requires that the simplest and most vital job has to have a confirmation of completion, it's a pathetic and sad.
Anywho, praying your experience goes well and shalom!
@@Keith.Zielinski fact
Love my Godzilla 7.3. 43,xxx miles no issues. Always used full synthetic. Only problem with the truck is when I hit a ruff spot driving down the interstate, the front tires bounce uncontrollably until I slow to about 60mph. My local dealer checked it out and claim that they don't notice anything wrong.
@@michaelhayden6936Sounds like a white knuckle situation, that is not normal operating function, that is poorly executed engineering.
Take care and safe travels.
I've got a 2022 550 ambulance with 47,000 miles and that is having a new short block installed based on lifter and cam shaft damage. Have already decided that all our fleet is going to have engine oil analysis done at services.
Roller lifter failure in these engines looks identical to what any roller cam engine experiences when roller contact with the cam lobe is not maintained and the roller is bouncing back onto the base circle following a valve-close ramp, at which point the two pieces of polished hardened (read: brittle) steel make violent impact with each other causing micro fracturing of the surfaces to occur, from which point deterioration increases exponentially. Another consideration is that at maximum engine RPM of 5500 (about where these shift) the rollers are expected to accelerate and decelerate between about 5000RPM on the base circle of the cam, to about 7000RPM at the top of the lobe - 45 times per second. (A little less difference on the intakes since the lift is less) If the roller departs the cam lobe on the downslope there will bean RPM difference when it "lands", and that makes the forces involved even worse. I can think of two possible causes for a valvetrain problem like this, neither of which is metallurgy of the roller or cam: A) Oil foaming causing springiness in the piston area of the hydraulic lifters, and/or B) insufficient valve spring pressure. You can try augmenting the oil with an anti-foaming additive but the more of these I see, the more it looks like poorly chosen valvespring specs for the application. Hopefully the aftermarket steps up since Ford isn't.
Thanks for sharing your expertise! This is an outstanding explanation. I certainly hope there is a solution out there for people who do experience this issue.
I was under the understanding that these lifters were "soft" as as they eat away they take out the lobes on the camshaft.
Sometimes the internet is your worst enemy! I see alot of complaining about cam lifter issues but never see a truck running with that rough idle. I'm close to 60k but I'm not worried at all the engine cost 6k and me and a buddy could probably slap it in over a weekend. Plus I have a a 4.6 that was suppose to be junk reading 525k, yea she smokes on start up but it's been the best engine I've ever owned I can't kill it!
Thanks for the encouraging words. The truck is absolutely amazing. We just towed our big 5th wheel on a vacation trip and it did great. As soon as we got home, we took a 12 hour trip to NY - also great for an empty road trip. It's really a nice vehicle. czcams.com/video/SvPcL6s2yNk/video.html
2022 7.3. Did my first oil and filter change at 1k miles. Couldn't believe the amount of aluminum I saw when dumping the filter over in the drain pan. Took pictures. Now running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with a Fram Ultra (20micron) filter. Getting ready to change it again after 5k more miles. Planning of sending in a sample to see how things look.
Thanks for posting your videos and test results. Curious as to what your viscosity numbers are.....
Thanks for sharing! We didn't own this truck until 19,000 miles - so I am not confident that the previous owner changed the oil as often as I would have. Hopefully a couple more frequent oil changes will clean up any residual stuff in the system.
We typically use the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil - but I may switch to something else in the future. The engine calls for 5W30 oil -but Blackstone mentioned that oil looked like 5W20 - which makes me wonder if it thinned out over time.
The viscosity numbers on the report were:
SUS Viscosity at 210 degrees F = 53.8
cST Viscosity at 100 degrees C = 8.42.
I have no idea what those numbers mean. Can you help explain it?
@@PurpleCollarLife Though I am an Engineer, in no way do I pretend to be an Engine or Oil expert. I was always taught that the Viscosity test numbers were always the first and most important to look at. Low numbers means the oil has broken down (Shear) or been contaminated with fuel. Either way,,, past it's useful life.
Too high usually means sludge and carbon. Most of the other numbers are really only useful if you have a before (virgin) and after sample to compare.
Just got back from cleetus and cars indy pulling a 3 axle toyhauler ran an average of 75 mph whole way sometimes 80mph , about 550 miles round trip truck ran great pushed wind and storms the whole way back, if it eats a lifter I'll worry about it then
Thanks for watching! Sounds like you’re giving the 7.3 a real test!
Just did my first oil change on my Godzilla at 3k and it’s been easy miles so far. Technically it’s the second oil change because my dealer changed my oil when I bought it new. I did the oil change myself today, and it took almost 9 quarts to get to full on dip stick. Owners manual says 8.
Thanks for the info!
You have to allow some for the oil filter. The 8 quart capacity is probably relative to the the oil pan capacity.
@@terryduncan31 I pre-fill the oil filter, then add oil, then I run the truck for about five minutes and I check the oil level. My truck takes 8.75 quarts. I’m no auto mechanic but I’ve changed the oil on my vehicles and farm equipment hundreds of times.
Interesting! I’m at 7k miles on my truck. Did my first oil change at 4500. I was planning on doing the next at 10k. I’ll have to get an oil analysis.
I look forward to hearing the results of your oil analysis! Keep us posted.
4500 is at least 3500 too far. The first oil and filter change is the most important one.
@@GT-mn3bx nah it will be fine
We just bought ours last week.. It has 346 miles. I guess we should sell immediately.
We plan on keeping ours long term. While there are issues in a small percentage of the 7.3 engines, I hope that that’s more the exception than the norm. We do have the 100,000 mile warranty - so that does provide some peace of mind. Thanks for watching!
@@PurpleCollarLife I was kidding. I love this truck. Still not used to the size. Ive owned 3 past F150s. An 87, 2001 and 2005. An 88 Ranger 2 Tacomas and 3 Tundras in 30 something years.
What is your best advice for getting used to its size? It’s the same configuration as yours with the 7.3 Oxford White and Baja leather interior Lariat. Love your videos.
Ford charges 80-90k for trucks, but cant paint the underside of the hood anymore....
I’m not sure what is on the bottom of the hood - it’s not bare metal, so they sprayed it with something. Maybe it’s a primer? Maybe it’s some type of paint treatment? I’m not familiar with it though. Every other truck I’ve had has had painted underside of the hood to match the paint color of the truck. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the the answer.
I’m no engine mechanic or engineer so my question would be if this high reading is from a camshaft / lifter issue, would it be a high iron reading vs some other element? My best guess is ring seating and if I understood you correctly black stone thinks the oil is 20w which would seem to me that there is a good possibility that the original owner might have left the oil in to long.
I wondered this exact same thing. I may reach out to Blackstone Labs and get their thoughts on this. I’m wondering if they’ve had any reports of this issue.
That engine was broken in by the time he got it .we have seen quite a few with the cam lifter issue.
@@andrewslagle1974 Thanks, Andrew. Are you still seeing them mostly in commercial vehicles? Or a mix of personal and commercial?
When we get our new later this year. I plane on routine oil analysis to keep tabs on this. We’re planning a 6.7 trade in for a new 7.3.
Keep us posted on your thoughts between the two engines!
Will do. I’ll miss the power and mostly just the torque but not the expensive maintenance of a new diesel
I work as a helicopter mechanic for the US Army and oil samples will vary and have seen bad ones before. 99 percent of the time is completely flush, reservice (not just a oil change, flush, drain and new filter and oil) . Use recommended oil from Ford. Since you dont know the first 19k miles I would not worry.
Thanks for the tip! We’re looking forward to better numbers on the next report card.
the 6.0 powerstroke that it appears that you used to have for sure was a problem child. Best of luck with the 7.3.
Thanks for watching! There was a lot of potential with the 6.0. Sometimes it was amazing. But other times it let us down in some of the most in opportune locations and situations.
Beautiful truck but I think my 2005 dodge cummins will be in my driveway still. By the way the truck has 500k and the only thing done was injectors pump and ecm.
Congrats on 1/2 a million miles! That's awesome!
I'm a tech st Ford. The bulk oil used at the dealer is only ok oil. And stored in metal tanks typically. I would try your own quality oil and run the truck with bottled oil and recheck it
Thanks for the info! I'm going to do my own oil changes and probably use Mobile 1.
That’s one reason why you should do your own oil change I don’t trust the dealership
Until this truck, I’ve mostly always changed my own oil. It’s a process I actually enjoy. But with this truck, I was given points and free oil changes for a while. AND - with the extended warranty, I thought it would be a good idea to have the dealership complete the oil changes so that they have the record of having completed it themselves. But you’re right that doing the oil change yourself puts all the variables in your control. Thanks for watching!
Occasional high/low numbers are common,look for trends.Also take your own samples for consistency.
Thanks! We’re going to take our own sample next time and see if we get improved results.
I have a 2020 f250 7.3 godzilla with 67000 im the original owner only problem ive had was bad balljoints at 30,000 miles. Wich ford is known for i did buy extended warranty coverage up to 125,000 miles hoping nothing happens i heard about this issues too
Thanks for watching! Keep us posted. I hope you make it well past that 125,000 miles without any other issues.
change your oil every 4000 miles oil is much cheaper then a new motor . I have also read that the godzilla motor has low oil pressure when idling ( 4-6 lbs ) so I would not idle my engine very long or very often . ask your dealer about low oil pressure when idling .
Thanks! We're switching to 3000 mile intervals - especially in the summer where we're towing with more frequency.
Still waiting for my new motor to arrive as my 7.3 Godzilla motor failed 2 cylinders due to lifter failure and when it was being torn apart at dealer they realized there was crankshaft issue as well so now 2 months later and truck still at dealer awaiting new crate motor. 52,200 miles and 2020 F350
That’s horrible. First of all, the engine problem makes me mad. But then why is there such a delay to get the new engine? Have they given you a loaner truck all this time that you can use to do “truck stuff” while yours is in the shop?
I'm an older guy so I tend to use common logic more than manufacturers or govt controlled lab reports. Bottom line, the more often you change your oil and filter the longer your engine will last. Today's engines are built with smaller oil passages which is why weights and viscosity is thinner and lighter in today's vehicles oils. The manufacturers like building and selling vehicles so they build them to wear out. Why do you think oil capacities are increased with the thin oil vehicles? 5 quarts of 0w20 or 5w20 cannot be kept cool enough to operate without reaching scorching temps so capacities are increased to 7 or more quarts. One way to combat this is by keeping your oil as clean as reasonably possible, also add a super magnet to the end of your oil filter and the deepest part of your oil pan even if the drain plug is magnetized. A lot of these vehicles have sensors that will shut the motor down if you put heavier oil than recommended....ask me how I know.
Thanks for watching!
Maybe I missed it, what year is your 7.3 ? I’ve heard that the camshaft issue affected 2020 to 2021 models, the new generation 7.3s. Supposedly Ford resolved this issue for 2022.
Ours is a 2020. When we were shopping for a used F350, I wanted to make sure I got one that had a build date BEFORE March of 2020, so that I was hopefully avoiding the B and C vendor parts from supply chain issues during COVID.
If your trucks does 10k oil changes and the dealership does it for free I'd change it myself at 5k miles and take it to them for the 10mile change that way its changed every 5k also I'd mark my stuff to make sure they are actually changing the oil
Great tips and a good idea!
The 6.0 was the worst diesel Ford used. The 7.3L, the 6.0L and 6.4L were all produced by Navistar International (The 7.3L Powerstroke is known as the D444 and D444T in Internationals)
Thanks!
I would definitely use heavier oil I use 0 40 Mobil one full synthetic will help when your pulling a load
Thanks for watching! Any concern though with the fact that you're using not the recommended oil weight if there is a future issue?
Don't use heavy oil. Use the recommended oil weight. That motor's designed to have a lighter oil so it keeps the engine cool heavy oil holds the heat in then they're going to have major engine issues
It's possible that the previous owner drove it hard. I know it seems as though it wouldn't be possible because it only had 19,000 miles on it, but it CAN happen. People can abuse vehicles in a relatively short period of time. It doesn't take much. Another possibility would be the oil itself. Is it good quality oil? Is it possible the deposits were due to a bad refining process? Some people say oil is oil, but using a well known brand can be beneficial to using a cheaper brand. And sometimes even good oil can be defective, for lack of a better word. Hopefully though, the future results will be better. 👍 Thanks for sharing, Chad!
That's true - we don't know how the previous owner treated it. As far as the oil quality - I always opt for the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil. I've had good luck with it in the past. Thanks for watching!
Comparison may be against trucks that haven't been towing.
Very true!
You have a long power train warranty don't sweat it at all. Let's face it ever since the EPA got involved crap is what we get and you better be happy about it. I only tow 6k , when I got my 21 f250 I went with the 6.2. whether or not I was right, who knows
Thanks for watching! The people I know who tow a camper with the 6.2 love it!
The 6.2 is a great motor! You won’t win any races or get very good mpg, but the 6.2 is fricking bulletproof, and that’s the most important thing! They are used hard every day by millions of men.
Chad, about 6 months ago, like you, I purchased a used 2022 F350, crew cab, short bed (unlike you), 4x4, 3.73, with the 7.3L Godzilla. Note, your review (and a few others) of 7.3L helped me with the decision to get away from my old 2008 power stroke super duty to tow my 10,000 lbs. travel trailer. Although the problems I had with the old truck seemed to be less than what you experienced, I was done replacing turbos. That said, the new to me truck was purchased with 5K miles and I changed the oil at about the same date as you did with 10K miles on it. The dealer had changed the oil prior to my purchase, so the oil had about 5K miles on it. During the change I pulled the oil sample and sent it to Blackstone. My results are nearly identical to yours. Al=5, Iron=30, Copper=7, Moly=146, Boron 121, Magnesium=595, Phosphorous=774, Zinc=819, Barium=14. Like you, I was concerned with the high Iron and copper content over Blackstone's universal averages. Their comments indicate that this might still be a residual of the break-in period. While I can't say this is an early indication of any impending doom, I will be repeating the oil analysis at 15K. About the only good news, if there is any, is that TFL did a similar test on their 2020 F250 Godzilla, a few years ago (which is what turned me on to Blackstone for all of my vehicles). They didn't their oil analysis after their first 10K miles (with 10K miles on the oil), I noted the metal content was quite a bit higher than what my report indicated. Of course this was after 10K miles on a brand new engine, which is probably to be expected. I am not too worried that this point, but I will be watching this over time.
Thank you for sharing your experience and numbers with us! We hope to get better numbers on the next one. I'll be taking the sample myself and sending it in (rather than letting the dealership do it). I think we'll also switch to Mobile 1 oil.
I agree that towing a fifth wheel trailer IS absolutely hard use, driving in dusty conditions is considered hard use these days!! Oil is the life blood of ANY engine, to go more then 5000 miles is insane. An oil and filter change on a gasser is cheap insurance for that engine to live a long life. With engines running so hot and oil so thin these days it should be changed out more frequently then indicated to prevent metal wear and provide longevity in current power plants in these super expensive trucks.
In my 2010 F150 with the 5.4 3V I do oil changes every 3k miles. It’s not an everyday driver but gives me peace of mind that I am doing everything I can to make it last as long as possible with the known valve train issues.
Thanks! We’re decreasing our oil change interval to 3000 miles - especially during the summer when we’re towing a lot.
We have over 160,000 miles on the 5.4 in our Ford Expedition. It’s still running great. We change the oil between 3000 and 5000 miles, depending on use and time of the year.
Man I'll try 5w30 no more than 3000 miles when you're towing. Fuel dilution is also a concerned over 5000 miles because will hurt the viscosity. Also the oil I'll try Penzoill Ultra Platinum or Valvoline extended performance and see the differences. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the advice. We will be using 5W30 oil for about 3000 miles for the summer time, and continue to send in the oil for analysis to see what the results are. Thanks for watching!
UOA for my '22 F250 w/7.3 taken on May 26th 2023
Truck was purchase in Aug of '21 and oil changed every 5000ish miles
Engine hours 581
Engine idle hours 59
Miles on truck 24,102
Miles on oil 5200
Oil is Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30
Aluminum 4
Chromium 0
Iron 12
Copper 1
Lead 0
Tin 0
Molybdenum 68
Nickel 0
Manganese 1
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 8
Silicon 15
Sodium 5
Calcium 1014
Magnesium 427
Phosphorus 626
Zinc 690
Barium 0
SUS Viscosity @ 210*F 54.9 Should be 55-63
cSt Viscosity @ 100*C 8.74 Should be 8.8-11.3
Flashpoint in *F 395
Fuel %
Thanks!
In my humble opinion, these 2022 trucks look so much nicer than the 2023/2024 model years because of those ugly bumper & bedside steps. They might be functional but they are not pretty.
I totally agree.
I agree with Mark how was the sample taken. I do oil samples hot and well mixed and let it flow a bit after removing plug or use the extraction tool. Also what was condition of magnetic drain plug this could confirm what the sample is telling you as well. You also did not state what kind and viscosity of oil you are using.
Thanks for the tips! We will be doing the sampling ourselves from here on out. We use 5W30 oil.
The oil report states the oil viscosity was 5w20 while the 7.3L specs 5w30. Can you confirm if this oil sample is 5w20 or 5w30?
I noticed that on the report also. The oil we use for oil changes is 5W30, however - I’m now wondering if the selling dealership used a different oil, OR if it thinned out over time in the 7.3 engine. I can tell you that what was put in during the oil change after this sample was taken was 5w30. That will be another thing I’m looking at in the next report. Thanks for pointing that out! I forgot to mention it in the video.
Mine said that to checked with my dealer they checked with there distributors and they said the oil could shear quickly. Not sure I buy it. Blackstone says it’s fine
Thank you for your videos
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!
No telling what oil the Dealership actually uses despite what you pay for. Also mark your oil filter with a small scratch next time you take it in and check it after they are done as well as check the oil and level to make sure its clean and at the proper range.
Great points! Thanks for the tips. I actually write on my oil filter when it gets home - the date of replacement.
They put whatever is in the bulk tank, they could care less.
Every service dept told me change oil every 3000 to 4000 miles. The change oil light in the vehicle has changes to far apart. Fifth wheel heavy duty use……change oil every 3000
That’s our plan moving forward! Thanks for watching.
I've got a 19' Superduty with death wobble at 37k miles. Sounds like you have more good iron in your oil than I've got my whole front end. Get somebody to rip out the 7.3 and drop in a SBC and make your worries go away.
Thanks for watching! I’ve been fortunate never to have experienced the death wobble.
I'd be looking at what metals are used to make the cam and lifters. How often do you change your oil? I wouldn't be waiting to the maximum length. Also, I'd be taking my own samples. You never know what they are doing at the dealer. With as little oil as you are using for a sample, I'd think you could pull it up through the fill tube. Then go get your oil changed if you need to maintain a warranty.
We used to change the oil every time the computer told us we were down to 20% life left (roughly). Now, we do it every 3,000-5,000 miles depending on where we are in our travels.
Another issue that you should investigate is the head gaskets. Ford started putting slits between the cylinders and the problem first started showing up in there 4 cylinder engines
It will show up in the v8s as this truck you have has that same design - seepage of coolant into the cylinders. so Be warned - Ford hasn't learned from this bad engineering design.
Thanks for the info!
dude, you had the dealer take the sample??? they probably scooped it from the trash pit. DO IT YOURSELF. DO IT AGAIN. Good luck!
Thanks! We're taking our own samples from here on out.
Never did engine oil but working at a manufacturing plant the hydraulic oil comes always back elevated but for copper zinc and magnesium it’s been doing that for 30 years running 24/7 352 days just saying
Thanks!
Anytime your pulling it's considered hard use. It sounds to me like you have 5500 miles of hard use, that would explain what's going. You have too many miles on the truck for break in metal to be in the oil still.
Thanks!
I wouldn't be concerned. The block is cast iron. My 18 3.0 psd on 8k mile showed 64 iron vs 40 avg.
Send it
Thanks for sharing!
I think no matter how big the engine is, and before you go making a decision about "Hard Use" you might wanna consider the rear end ratio. 12,000 pounds is A LOT when your rear ratio is high.
Thanks for watching. Our rear end ratio is 3:73.
157k mile's and not a problem. 2020 hot shot truck.
Great to hear! Thanks.
Expensive boat anchor.
Thankfully, we have the extended warranty if we would have a problem in the future. But you’re right - these trucks aren’t cheap. Thanks for watching!
buddyrich3875. . . . . Do you have an idea of a newish truck that is NOT an " expensive boat anchor " ? All opinions appreciated . I bought an '04 F 250 with a 6.0 powerstroke. I was looking for something to carry a slide in truck camper. Uuumm , NEVER buy a 6.0 powerstroke. I will be lucky if this thing doesn't completely break me !
@@wh8085 it doesn’t need to be a PowerStroke to be an expensive boat anchor. I paid several thousand dollars for a reman 5.4L 3 Valve Triton in my ‘04 F150 before 100K. That, plus everything else I paid to replace (starter, alternator, crank position sensor, window switch, ABS sensor, brake caliper, rear, pinion seal) made it the single most expensive vehicle I’ve ever kept running.
I bought it as a used local trade and in apparent good condition, but you can’t see inside the engine.
@@settledontheprairie5524 , Dang Brother , I hate it for you ! I'm not that deep in YET but it looks like I may end up having an expensive lawn ornament ! . I've got mine at a guy that teaches diesel mechanic at the local votech school but H hasn't figured out what is wrong with it yet ! In the mean time I'm watching all the " 6.0 , Crank No Start " videos on YT . Seriously thinking about finding an old 390 ford to rebuild and stick in it ! Everything costs way to much right now ! Good Luck on your end ! We may have to turn Amish and go the horse and buggy route ! Geeze
@@wh8085 I traded it off in 2014 when I changed jobs and no longer needed it. I still loved it, but it was a good time to let it go.
What type of oil is being used? I have a 2022 and only used Mobile 1
Great question! We cover that in a more recent video. czcams.com/video/8uNVBdBSjs4/video.htmlsi=X-unpXhxsqoqoxO-
I have 23,500 miles on my '22 model so I have another 1500 before I change the oil and I also have analysis kit on the shelf ready and waiting.
Awesome! Keep us posted with your numbers after the oil analysis. Are you using Blackstone Labs or another company?
@@PurpleCollarLife Blackstone.
@@bryanthornton6787 Thanks!
@@PurpleCollarLife Just to let you know that I received my oil analysis back. Is there an email that I could send it to or would you rather me type it out here?
@@bryanthornton6787 You can do whichever you’d prefer. Our email is purplecollarlife@gmail.com. Other people following the comments on this video might like to see the results too - if you’re willing to add them to these comments. Thanks!
Like you y'all I use my 7.3 to tow a 5th wheel since i have to move around a lot due to work requirements. I am nearing 100,000 still no issues. Like one the other commenters the cost of any repair on the engine are going to be far less than a similar repair on a diesel. If it make you feel better and know a good mechanic have them pull them one at a time and see if any damage. If none button it back up and keep rolling. If there ia damage then replace and upgrade cam and lifters to better quality. At the end of the day you will be dollars ahead still
Thanks for the advice - AND for letting us know you’re still having great success with the 7.3 towing a 5th wheel and nearing 100,000 miles! That’s reassuring.
And you’re right - having spent $4000, and as much as $7000 at a time on repairs to the PowerStroke - future repairs to the Godzilla would be much cheaper.
I have a fleet of 7.3 engines out of 23 trucks we have done three camshafts on three different units all under 70000 miles may start to worry if you hear a very small tapping noise
Thanks for sharing! That is not good to hear. That’s a 13% failure rate in your fleet. Have you done an oil analysis on any of them? I’d be curious to know the numbers. Also - what other symptoms do you notice? Does the small tapping noise sound like the valve clicking?
@@PurpleCollarLife I have that is how we kept it from being a catastrophic failure, we change oil at 30 days averaging about 3500-3800 miles the the first failure happened at 29000 on the odometer. And we are fixing to do a fourth one next week. The crazy part is we have waited up to 5 months to get the second one repaired because head bolts have been on back ordered I keep a set handy in the shop. The head gasket set we have also had to source those aftermarket which leads me to believe it a pretty common problem. We are working on a solution for that variable pressure oil pump…. I have some pictures of a cam that had 60,000 miles it looks fairly worn out even on the lobes that weren’t damaged
@@PurpleCollarLife also we have had 5 failed transmissions, 10 speeds all under 100,000 I believe it is the clutch pack e,f the steel bushing spins inside the drum and it start to cut off oil flow you know when your transmission starts to get “clunky” 6700 for the cam repair and about 4700 for the transmission
I gave up on new trucks and restored our 02 F 350 7.3 and very happy with results but I'm a mechanic
Great choice on the restoration!
keep running those 20W oils so they can get their EPA ratings.
It calls for 5W30 weight. I hope that is what the dealership has been using on the oil changes.
All this kind of issues makes me want to never get rid of my 2001 SD 7.3 F250 rust free truck. With 200K
doesn't use or leak oil. With the BTS transmission and cooler . And a few engine mods it will probably outlast me.
If I owned a 2001 with the 7.3, and without any rust- it would be a truck I’d keep forever. You’re right - that thing will out-live me for sure. I wish the new diesels were as simple and reliable as the old PowerStroke 7.3. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
I have been a Ford Truck man for the past 23 years 5 F150s and 3 F250s. I just bought my first Chevrolet Truck 2023 2500HD 6.6 gas. We will see how this truck works out for me I have started keeping trucks longer than 2 years
Keep us updated! Thanks for watching.
Just curious did you observe your oil minder before changing? What was the oil percentage left when you changed?
Great question! It was still at around 30% life left on the oil.
That big shop is bad ass
Thanks! We saved and pinched pennies for a LONG time to be able to build that.
Interesting Moly number. I wonder if Liqui Moly was added. Or it could be that clean/new oil (that was used in a prior oil change) was already high in Moly. In addition to Moly being a lubricant, it is also used in alloys to make tools (maybe lifters or camshafts?) harder. Maybe someone else knows whether Godzilla's lifters or camshaft use a Moly alloy?
Very interesting! I hadn’t thought about that.
Lucas synthetic has a ton of molybdenum. And there's a post telling 7.3 owners to use it to save the cam/lifters. Maybe they tried.