Suehiro New cerax vs Ouka vs Debado LD
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- A short look on the new cerax and Ouka soaking stones from suehiro. Specifically the 3000 grit. And a short appearance of the debado ld splash and go as well.
I just wanted to talk a little about choosing the right stone as well as the right grit. The type of stone is also important to think about when you decide on your progression.
00:00 chat
05:30 soaking the stones
07:40 Suehiro Ouka grit
11:25 new cerax 3000 grit
14:50 Debado LD 4000 grit
ouka is my favorite stone. I love it so much. so weird to say, but its perfect for me. the feel is so buttery. nice video
Nice to see some new suehiros!! Great stones, great company, can always count on this brand to perform very well.
Love my ouka and Rika.
And my Moritaka kiritsuke too!
Very interesting comparison.
Thank you for the comparison! I have the Ouka, always thought Cerax is the same stone.
Excellent point sir. Its amazing to me how many so called enthusiasts or self styled experts don't realize that stated grit ratings are really quite arbitrary and often depend even on the line of the stone itself. Everyone should understand that there are 3 basic types of whetstones, course, sharpening and finishing. While some product lines are general use which contain the full range of course, sharpening and finishing stones there are some product lines that are entire lines of just one type and the grit ratings are adjusted on that basis. For instance the Naniwa Super (finishing/polishing) Stones. Or they wonder why the 6k cerax leaves scratches more like a 1-2k shapton. It's because it's a sharpening stone. Whereas another line might be for finishing and it's rates less say 4k, but it's a finer stone. Seems like a very simple thing to grasp buy people get stuck on grit ratings like they're meaning a lot more than they really do. Even with micron size of abrasive particles, the way the particles are bound and exposes will effect how finely the thing cuts. For example you can put 5 micron abrasive particles onto a wood or leather surface and you will see the scratches it leaves are much much finer than whetstones with similar sized particles, even stones with much much smaller particles. Or for instance with diamond plates, where despite the stated grit ratings they're generally leaving the same depth of scratch. etc.
Great! Been waiting for this comparison for some time. I bought the Cerax 5000 without knowing about the Rika and have been wondering since if the Rika would have been the better buy.
@ Michael Brohl
I agree, after the Debado LD the knife had been sharpened 3 times as much than after the Ouka. You cannot rule out the possibility that higher keenness and less "tooth" is due to having refined the edge more instead of the qualities of the Debado LD. It would be better to slightly dull the knife before each stone by rubbing it on the side of a reference stone.
Still interesting to see the three Suehiro stones at work, though.
I just bought the Oka. Being delivered today. Using before a JNAT for polishing
Great choice :)
Love the Ouka so much l ended up buying the Cerax 3k but in my case is the other way around, the Cerax hardly bubbles and the Ouka bubbles more….
Good morning!Great video man! I have a question. When you bought the New Cerax 3000 was glew to white plastic base and you separated? Because I’m most cases I realized that that the stone is glewed to the base.
HI if you have to choose only 4 wetstone what will be your choice?
Great video. I wonder how you feel about Suehiro Debado LD 1000 vs Naniwa Chosera/Professional 800? Thanks!
I am about to buy a splash ans go, and I am asking myself exactly the same question... I'm hesitating between these two models.
@Stéphane S honestly you can't go wrong with either one, the edge you get is going to depend more on your technique than the stones when comparing high quality stones such as these, especially between Suehiro and Naniwa. If you are only getting one stone I would suggest the naniwa pro/chosera 1k as it works just as fast and has a slightly better finish than either of those stones. If you're getting it for a progression to a higher grit then again either is good, it would really come down to which one is more easily attainable or cheaper to get. I'm partial to the Naniwa myself, but if someone told me I could never use Naniwa again and could only use Suehiro I wouldn't lose sleep over it, it comes down to preference of how the stones feel to you versus whether or not one is better than the other. If one feels better to sharpen on for the user it typically means that's the stone that will get the better results. One thing I will add is that the Naniwa 1k basically doesn't load at all, it's actually incredible, I don't own the Dabado 1k so I would look into its loading characteristics as that might help you make your decision. If it loads, even a little that can't just be removed by rubbing the stone with your fingers, I would go with Naniwa. I have never experienced my Naniwa 1k getting bogged down because of load.
@@MrBayeasy Many thanks for such a complete and detailed answer! This really helps 👍
@Stéphane S I'm glad to hear it, I know stuff like this can be overwhelming or confusing. Just remember that the technique is always going to trump the stone you're using (unless you're using those cheap combo stones because those actually are just terrible). Since you're considering good quality brands however I think no matter what you do you'll get great results if your technique is on point. Good luck!
@@MrBayeasy For a while I had the opportunity to use some basic and really unusable cheap combo stones. I quickly understood that I had to spend a little more to get a lot better ^^
I hesitated for a long time between several stones (notably the Naniwa pro #800 and the #1000) which both seem to be very recommendable (very fast, good feedback, slow wearing and very little clogging). All the testimonials seem to converge: unlike the Shapton Glass stones, the actual grain of the Naniwa pro is finer than advertised. From what I understand, the #800 would be more like a #1200 and the #1000 would be more like a #1400 or even finer... Knowing that I'm looking more bite than polish (I think kitchen knives are more efficient when the edge is a little bit "agressive"), I finally opted for the #800 (a bit reluctantly because the green one is prettier ^^)
Frankly I don't know if I would have seen the difference with the #1000, but I must say that I am not disappointed. This stone keeps all its promises: it is indeed very fast, and I find that you can feel what is happening between the blade and the stone... And it hardly clogs at all! This kind of stone is addictive: I sharpen everything I can get my hands on and my relatives tell me that it's becomming dangerous ^^
In any case, I've made a lot of progress and I still want to dig into the subject...
Thanks again for your feedback and advice!
have you tried naturals yet? you would love them
Yea I have a few :) i usually take them out for Special occasions 😁
Hi dear can you compare between naniwa omura and shapton 320
Shure. That won't be a problem. Im off fork for a few weeks, so I finally actually have some time :)
Did you continue using the same knife as you changed stones ? If you are, you're not giving an accurate comparison of the stones.
Same knife offcourse and 80crv2 carbon steel :)
Do you have any e-mail?
You can look me up on facebook if you'd like. Same name:)
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 i can't find you