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Glad to see you again, nice workingspace and stone pond.

Can you compare the feel of the Naniwa pro 5000 to the Shapton pro 5000 ? I work mostly on the Naniwa Pro 400/800/2000/3000 and I would like to decide on on of these 5000 stones. Love your videos, they gave me plenty of infotainment. Kindest regards Hubrecht

I have a very large collection of stones and I really like Shapton 220 and especially 320, sometimes even 1k. The coarse stones are very fast when you need coarse stone, one of the best ones in grit range that I've tried. 120 is not that efficient but still feels very gritty. At least my versions of 5k and up are not that good. Sure, they do the job but feedback and even power is much better on many other stones. For thinning or large flat surfaces my 5k seems to have grab/skip/grab/skip style effect. No way to get large surface running smooth on it. I've not seen many others complain about that though and my stones are well flattened several times. I'm surprised to see you like feedback on 5k. I've always found it at most average, but I prefer a stronger feedback like on Suehiros. Atomas are so great (140 or 400). I got about 20 years of use as flattening stone as a hobbyist from my first atoma. Replaced it with another Atoma.

Thats 5000 sounds smoother then Barry White!

Good to see a new video. 👌🏻 what knife roll is that in the beginning of the video? It’s so beautiful I love it.😍

Welcome back!

Nice knife and nice to see you back with a new video

Great video. Thanks. That's a great knife and a great stone. I'm jealous.

Very good content and a dream setup/collection my friend, I hope i like the 180 as a material hog I just ordered one after looking at so many positive reviews yours included

Hi, thanks for your review ! I am new to this and i want to have Luxuary knives in future ! (now i only have one) my main use is for home kitchen and i want to have one stone for now ! is it okay if i go with rika 5000 ? (is it okay for 6000 or 8000?) because my use is for home and knives wont get dull !

Just bought 1000 and 4000 Shapton glass stones. Moving up from a cheaper king stone they are leagues ahead. I probably need to buy a lower one though as I found it best to use the 1000 side of my cheap stone to get bur/ bite first as it made sharpening a lot easier( this was on an already fairly blunt knife)

I guess you could call that diamond emulsion “Jenda fluid”

Hi, your reviews have been excellent! They've really helped me in figuring out how a stone would feel like, hearing the sound they make and seeing the slurry and the feedbacks, your microphone is excellent! After getting my 1st japanese knife, a cheap one, but carbon steel, a teruhide shimomura, 4 years ago I had been using local natural stones (very hard stones, 400-6K) to sharpen it, and some other knives. I them got my 1st japanese whetstone 2.5 months ago, a King KDS 1K/6K, that I reallly like. Then a Shapton Pro 120, to thin the teruhide, that has a zero bevel, I believe. What I think of the Shapton Pro, is that while it's a fast cutting stone, but it needs to be constantly refresh. That 120, if not refresh, would polish so well as if I was using a 3-5K stone. Then a month ago, I started getting the "chosera" line, a Miyabi Toishi Pro 400, and the Aratas, 1K, 5K, and 10K. These are excellent polishers, I think that those 4 cover everything I might need. With loaded balsa strops with 20K, 30K, and 100K powder/paste,as well as a couple of blank leather strops to finish. Anyway, may ask about your spring-loaded holder? How deep is the "lips" on that one? The ones holding down the bottom edgese of the whetstone. I want to get one, it looks pretty thin. I missed out on the Naniwa holder, that looks like it's only 3mm deep, but able to hold down whetstones firmly. The case that comes with the Aratas isn't as tightly fit as the Shapton's. Thanks again for the reviews! Surely made me feel like what I've spent have been worth every penny. Keep 'em coming...

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OI

What I wanted to do was learn to sharpen. Thank you

Ben watching for probably 3 years . Learned a lot. U are a teacher right . just got back .much luv

I have cheap chinese stones and they´re just not very good. They´re very soft and the grit is all over the place. Don´t expect a 6000 grit even if it says 6000. It´s not much finer than the 1000 side. For the rough work they still can be used. You can get a sharp knife using such a stone but you can get a sharp knife with almost anything.

Thanks!

10mm is really thin. I always felt like it could break at any moment. That´s why I glued it to a 8mm glass plate the exact size of the stone with 2k epoxy. Now can use it untill nothing is left without the fear of breaking the stone in half.

I’m watching this to fall asleep… 😴 In a good way! 😅 This is so relaxing!

Green Brick.

apart from the excelent technical considerations , "there is never an easy answer without having a context" is by far my takeaway from this, thanks a lot!

hi i have 2 questions 1 do you have to make a bur each of grit progression? or its only for coarse stone? 2. if the knife already not sharp do you start again from the coarse or you can start again from fine stone ?

Natural stones are really fun. Sand plus water on a concrete step is doable if you are starting relatively flat. You don't need to make much of a surface to test it and see if it's worth the rest of the work. Do this with 5 stones one day, just aiming for a little runway for testing, then decide which are worth another round of flattening. In my area slate is available and it got me seeking out these metamorphic-type rocks in the wild and in construction dump piles. If you find one, they are quite hard and difficult to wear down! Many metamorphic rocks are like this, including gneiss or other interesting specimens.... So in the end I actually prefer sedimentary-type stones, both fine and "coarse." And they are just everywhere, at least in my area. Regarding coarseness, I found some blue sandstone with rather large grains, very friable, and I thought this might work as a very coarse stone. But after flattening, I found it to be actually produce a very fine finish. We all know a flatly worn surface made up of coarse grains is not the same as all those coarse grains having protruding, jagged edges. So this means many more stones can be useful than you might first think. See what happens if you rub it down to a finer finish. Anyway this blue sandstone became a favorite, and it was very easy to keep flat. So don't count out stones that look more sandy, they can be very good for sharpening. And soft stones do have the upside of being easy to flatten. Natural stones also have cool properties, like many of them are fine grit but seem to cut very fast. Once you find a good stone you may become addicted! A whole other level of weird obsession can come from the river silts that made the stone--they are very interesting as abrasives. Rougher silica sands substitute well for SiC lapping powder, and finer silts work for polishing and finish lapping. These are the same clays and silts we like in rock form, so it makes sense they work as ultrafine rubbing compound. You can also grind/smash down the rocks or save the mud you accumulated on your concrete step for the same purpose. It's a little loony but the idea is exactly the same as the thinking behind using a natural stone.

What do you use a 120-grit stone for if not for sharpening a butter knife or spoon? And grits beyond 8000, how sharp/shiny does your knife have to be before you use it for cutting?

I think Suehiro is missing a medium-coarse grit stone (300 - 600 grit) in the price range of the Naniwa Pro 400, 600, and Shapton Glass 500. Cerax 320 (soaking stone) is way too soft.

the shapton pro is actually about a 700 grit stone iirc. even shapton will tell you this if you ask. its equivalent in the glass line is the 500. I think the closest chosera to this is the 600 grit, by far.

Why are people upset about the sink? Isn't that what most people use who don't have a fancy old Japanese vessel/whatever you'd call the bucket system? Supposedly these stones are very nice if you break the surface with another stone/flattening stone. 4000 grit seems to be many people's favourite stone. If you don't count the Karasu 9k that seems to have its own cult following.

Super vidéo !

my plan is : Shapton pro 320, 1k , 2k, 5k, and Luxor compound green, grey and yellow. ( 3microns, 1 and 0.3 ) Not always all together.... would you advise me different? thank you

Salut , exellente video ! Si vous le pouvez faites une video sur le coticule belge 👍

What’s your views on the glass series?

Interesting progression, I've heard people doing about doubling of the grit, not 6-8x. Seems to work though.

that is a polishing stone. grit ratings are relative. super stones are finishing and polishing stones. literally meaning super finishing/polishing stone. that 5k is a superb finishing stone. all you need is a few edge trailing strokes and you are done. I would generally avoiding doing anything else unless you're working on polishing a wide bevel

HI if you have to choose only 4 wetstone what will be your choice?

hello if you have to choose only 4 whetstone what will you take? thank you

Love your videos! Would you recommend going with a Naniwa pro 5k after already obtaining 800 and 3k?

Hello, what is the difference between the Ajisai 1200 and Aoi 1200 ?

These are Kuromakus, not pros. Pros have P in front of their numbers. I don’t know if there’s any difference.

Морская Цусима?

The fact it went to 79 usd is crazy

Nice work. Quick question: that 8000 grit sounds much louder and grittier than any other stone I’ve used, at least compared to the sound on the 1000 grit. Do you feel this during sharpening?

Hello! May I ask where you get that paddle diamond nagura? Thanks!

They don’t seem to clog much.

A 320 is a re-profiling stone, not a sharpening stone and that knife was not dull when you started (maybe down by the heel but not up at the tip. The Shapton range are anything under 1000 is re-profiling, 1000-3000 sharpening, 3000-5000 honing, 5000+ polishing.