Thanks. its good to be back. Love my collection, and i cant believe its still growing. The good thing now, is that i have so many, that my wife dont notice when i get new ones :D
Shapton 320 is definately one of the best stones in the series like 1k. 120k is not that good but it is grit difficult to find and a one most people need very rarely. While being very good, there are very good soakers too like Imanishi WZ #400 or Suehiro cerax 401 at #320
I really enjoy your videos, looking forward to the next one. I currently use Suehiro and Naniwa stones and use Atoma diamond plates for the nastier bits. Looking to try Morihei when I can find them. Appreciate your commentary as you sharpen, it helps me to make more informed purchases. I may have to add Shapton to the list.
Have you tried switching hands for sharpening the other side of the knife? Ir works like a charm for me. As anything with the human body, it is practice. Once you develop the muscle memory, you will not notice any better accuracy between one hand and the other.
Good! Give it time, as with all manual skills, it has its learning curve. The main advantage imho is that you can actually see the very edge moving back and forth and that is a huge aid to keep a constant angle. Seeing, hearing, tactile feedback, all makes up for a good technique. Just my two cents.
I have a question about burr, when we had the burr during sharpening on 1000 grit after we have sharpened on 300 grit for example, does this mean that the edge surely becomes 1000 grit ? Or, can we say that having the burr means that the edge grit becomes the same as the stone grit ?
The "burr" is just metal folding over at the very apex. If you can detect it folding from one side to the other you know you are hitting the right spot at the current stone you are working on, but you can also have a residual burr from a coarser stone. So its not a tell all, but if its flipping from one side to the other you are pretty much sure you are right on for the grit you are currently using :) at finer grits though it can be hard to detect, and at a certain point you are just trying to remove it all together. Hope that clears it up a litte. and if not just ask :) been travelling for a few days, so sorry for the late reply.
@lofotenknifeworks2278 Thank you so much for your response 🙏🏻🙏🏻 I will ask my question in another way :)😁. When can we know that the edge grit reached the stone grit?
@@mohammadhayati1386you can tell for sure with magnification. You can also cut off the burr completely between stones with jointing. Then if the burr comes back it’s for sure from the new stone.
I’m watching this to fall asleep… 😴 In a good way! 😅 This is so relaxing!
Ben watching for probably 3 years . Learned a lot. U are a teacher right . just got back .much luv
What I wanted to do was learn to sharpen. Thank you
Great you are back :) love your collection and setup :)
Thanks. its good to be back. Love my collection, and i cant believe its still growing. The good thing now, is that i have so many, that my wife dont notice when i get new ones :D
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 Welcome back
A close up of the chips an finished edge of the work is helpful yet still THANK YOU for teaching 🙏...
Shapton 320 is definately one of the best stones in the series like 1k. 120k is not that good but it is grit difficult to find and a one most people need very rarely.
While being very good, there are very good soakers too like Imanishi WZ #400 or Suehiro cerax 401 at #320
I really enjoy your videos, looking forward to the next one. I currently use Suehiro and Naniwa stones and use Atoma diamond plates for the nastier bits. Looking to try Morihei when I can find them. Appreciate your commentary as you sharpen, it helps me to make more informed purchases. I may have to add Shapton to the list.
Have you tried switching hands for sharpening the other side of the knife? Ir works like a charm for me. As anything with the human body, it is practice. Once you develop the muscle memory, you will not notice any better accuracy between one hand and the other.
I have. i just cant get the techique down. Still working on it though :)
Good! Give it time, as with all manual skills, it has its learning curve. The main advantage imho is that you can actually see the very edge moving back and forth and that is a huge aid to keep a constant angle. Seeing, hearing, tactile feedback, all makes up for a good technique. Just my two cents.
Have you used the Naniwa Chosera/Pro 600? Does it have a place being in between two of their most popular grits?
I have a question about burr, when we had the burr during sharpening on 1000 grit after we have sharpened on 300 grit for example, does this mean that the edge surely becomes 1000 grit ?
Or, can we say that having the burr means that the edge grit becomes the same as the stone grit ?
The "burr" is just metal folding over at the very apex. If you can detect it folding from one side to the other you know you are hitting the right spot at the current stone you are working on, but you can also have a residual burr from a coarser stone.
So its not a tell all, but if its flipping from one side to the other you are pretty much sure you are right on for the grit you are currently using :) at finer grits though it can be hard to detect, and at a certain point you are just trying to remove it all together.
Hope that clears it up a litte. and if not just ask :) been travelling for a few days, so sorry for the late reply.
@lofotenknifeworks2278
Thank you so much for your response 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I will ask my question in another way :)😁.
When can we know that the edge grit reached the stone grit?
@@mohammadhayati1386you can tell for sure with magnification.
You can also cut off the burr completely between stones with jointing. Then if the burr comes back it’s for sure from the new stone.