BambuLab A1: 100C bed temperature test, printing nylon carbon fiber, Polycarbonate, ASA and ABS
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- čas přidán 17. 05. 2024
- 00:00 Intro
02:43 Enclosed the BambuLab A1 with Printer-Box.com enclosure
03:42 ASA test print: open-framed configuration
04:43 ASA test print: enclosed setup
05:55 ABS test print
07:00 Polycarbonate test print
08:14 Nylon Carbon Fiber test print
09:21 PLA PRO functional parts test print
11:10 Conclusion
BambuLab A1 IN-DEPTH Review: (Part I)
• BambuLab A1, The most ...
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Bambu heard you about the wobbly top mount and added rear feet to the Official Model. A huge cardboard box over it allowed me to print ABS successfully. AWESOME MACHINE. AWESOME FOLLOW UP by you on the higher temp materials.
How high temperature is the max in enclosure so the A1 is safe
@@andreaspettersson3771 No idea the max safe temp inside the enclosure. I only did it once and never measured the temperatures. It was a small Customized Fan cover for another printer and was only a 2 and half hour print. Print came out great.
Understanding how the different methods of measuring temperature affects the values recorded shows that she really is a step above most reviewers regarding science. I appreciate that. The bloopers section isn’t really my thing, but never mind, someone else probably loves that too.
Having a part II just goes to show the commitment and effort that takes to make this great videos! Awesome work! Merry Christmas!
Excellent review . I been waiting for a part 2 before I decide to purchase the A1. Glad Bambu is listening to your suggestions for improvement.
You two do an absolutely brilliant job of reviewing printers and I always look forward to seeing the next one! Thank you!
Thanks for the excellent follow up to the previous review! Merry Christmas and happy end of year.
Great content as always. Thanks for the follow-up to the first video. I love the bloopers at the end. Thanks!
Thanks that you verified that bed temperature and tested problematic materials for us. 👍
For those interested, I built an enclosure for my Cr10 with a single panel of foam insulation from the hardware store. Used drywall screws to hold it together and a couple clear lexan sheets for double doors and 3d printed mounting hardware for it. I don't recall the cost but it was very effective and cheap to make. I think it was somewhere around the $50 range? Not very pretty but it does the job well.
Thnx for these additional Test.
Wonderful follow-up video! I would have never guessed there was an inaccurate measurement from the temp scanner.
Another wonderful video.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
God bless you all and keep you safe.
These are the best and most unbiased reviews of 3d printers anywhere, keep up the great work and never become a shill!
Ty 4 review! All questions answered!
Merry Christmas! One of the best review channels on CZcams!
Merry Christmas Aurora Tech. Great work and I look forward to the coming year of reviews. Thank you for your hard work.
Happy holidays!
I just got my A1 and it works fine because I saw your review and got it! As always, great video and merry christmas!
Happy holidays!
Great follow up video! Aurora the wise strikes again 💪
I noticed at the 3:23 time stamp that your heat bed cable at the base of your printer looks like it is damaged similar to the announcement photo from Bambu lab. Stay safe!
Thanks for the update
Thanks for the follow up information on the A1. I was split between several printers at this price point and just ordered the A1 based on your recommendation of it. Your videos were very helpful in deciding, thank you!
Yeah, I just ordered one on her advice.
Another great video
- Great job!
- Thx for your efforts.
Just FYI those thermometers are not laser thermometers they are infrared thermometers. The laser is just a laser pointer to help you aim. The infrared thermometers are very susceptible inaccuracy on shiny or reflective surfaces as well as some specific types of materials. This is because of how those materials interact with infrared light or reflect infrared light from other things in the room.
Thanks for posting a video on Christmas day! Happy Holidays to you and your family 👍
Happy holidays!
Merry Christmas! I’m saving up for one of these as my first Bambu.
Happy holidays!
Haven't tested our A1 yet, but checking our A1 mini yesterday with a thermal camera, both the PEI and smooth sheet gave reads up to 10C lower than the set point. I had some occasional adhesion issues on the left side in particular where that isn't over the machine, and bumping up the bed temp default seems beneficial.
I was waiting for this printer, but then i found a Creality CR-10 SE on sale for $250. I'm already using it and it's a nice machine! My next will be the Bambu A1!
Merry Christmas!
Other channels need to step their game up, you and your brother put adults to shame with how in depth this channel is
Noticing in this video too that your cable exhibits the recall issues Bambu put out this past weekend. I wonder if that also had some impact on your uneven heat distribution on the bed?
For what it's worth, a part like that doesn't print on my x1c either using that eryone ASA. It warps and splits and I tried all different kinds of things to get it to work and never could. I ended up printing the part in PETG and it worked fine.
Thanks for the great review! I look forward to the rerelease of the A1 this May...... oh, and please make more content in future reviews like 13:17 :)
Great video yet again Aurora! :) I really hope to some day have a full size A1 big brother to go with its little bro! I am working super hard to try and get there :D
Also I just wanted to say, I LOVE your shirt! haha :P
Thank you for the amazing content!
I'm using a glass bed on an Ender from 2019, and Never have to put anything on the bed to make the piece stick. Also I do not clean it with more than a paper towel. The PLA and ABS sticks to it so well it does not dislodge until the bed cools to room temperature.
This BambuLab A1 unit appears to be affordable and superior.
just thought I'd give you a tip if you didn't already know, until now I've been running a1 for 4 days constantly with printing, and if there's one thing I didn't like about that printer, it's the magnetism of the textured pei that came with it,combined with the bad the way bambu lab solved the way to center the print plate.
This was solved perfectly for me by taking the gold textured pei plate from my x1c printer, it’s not that strong magnetism and not that rough texture, easy’r to center and better to use for diffrent fillament
If you stick a bit of black gaffer tape on the bed it will make the IR thermometer more accurate. Reflective surfaces wreak havoc on IR thermometers.
Can you make a video comparing the pros and cons of bed slingers vs coreXY printers? Your perspective is so scientific!
THANK YOU SUBSCRIBED!
Can you please do another review of the top mount with the new z axis stiffeners?
Hi thanks for your well put together and impartial video but I would just like to add that thermal cameras/infrared thermometers don't play well with reflective surfaces the darker the better as fast as accuracy is concerned, when calibrating my heat bed or nozzle I use a thermocouple with a calibrated hand held reader.
Perhaps place something non reflective on top of each bed (black paper?) before measuring. Maybe that will give a fair apples-to-apples comparison between each printer.
Hi Aurora, great video, thanks. What do you think about the noise? Like the bambu lab or K1? Thank you.
Hey. The Kingroon KLP1 does not look bad for the price. It would be very interesting to see a comparism from you. Especially i like the robust linear rales on that printer.
Amazing video as always! You think is possible to print nylon and some other more specialized materials on the A1 mini? And can you maybe make a video on the A1 mini printing some specialized materials? Thanks a lot
Happy Holidays :)
Happy holidays!
Merry Christmas! Have you done the Sovol Klipper Screen yet?
happy holiday
A piece of matte black tape on the bed would give you a place to accurately measure the temperature with the IR thermometer. The lower emissivity of the peninsula coated steel is affecting the reading.
11:08 Hey, you didn't show the LED lights after installing the outlet box!! ☹
Great video, though! 😊
Even with all the advance features in today's print beds, I STILL use Suave #10 extreme hold spray.
Voxelpla Always have all colors except the one I am looking for.
What would be the best filament to survive hits from plastic 6mm balls? I plan to buy this printer
@AuroraTech , ender 3 v3 ke when???
Thanks for the review! I can’t buy the Bambu for normal price in my country,so now I’m thinking to go with flash forge 5m (maybe pro?) or Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke, which one has a better print quality or a speed? And if the flash forge as I think is slightly better in terms of print quality can you mention the 2nd place in this comparison and how big is the difference in print quality between 2nd place and flash forge 5m ? Thanks for your reviews, they really helped me to make decision in previous year❤ P.s.: Will you make a review on flying bear ghost 6?
I bought the Anycubic Kobra Neo and it's a nice and simple machine that gives me almost no trouble and puts out good prints consistently. However, on the first layer it leaves a line of filament between different objects which makes the top have a line in it there as well. Do you know how to fix that?
do video about cable issue for a1 its going to be catastrophic
The smaller chamber of the X1 and P1S also means it is much easier and quicker to preheat them, and the chamber can be brought up to higher tempereature due to the smaller volume of air.
If materials like ABS or ASA are of interest I would just go with the P1S. Why go with a jank solution by encousing the A1 when the P1S is not that much more expensive and offers other benefits as well. Enclosing the A1 kind of destroys the it just works factor that the Bambu Lab machines have.
from a manufacturing stand point, would they make separate parts that are that much more heat sensitive between the models A1 vs P1S? would it be efficient/economical?
Have you tried there hardened steel nozzle?
There's no "Todaaay.." today? 😮 Merry Christmas to you and your bro, great video as always, very informative 😊 If you give up on 3D printing reviews there's a future in motorbike sound effects for movies waiting for you 😊
I think there is no "todaaaay" today because this is part 2 of her A1 review.. (hopefully that's the reason 🙂)
@@3dprintedhardware that could be it but, you know what they say, two todaaays are better than one 👍
@@ryanvegntech That's a motto I live by!
😂
Hello. İ want to buy a 3d printer but i cant choose can you help?
İ am thinking about for bambu lab A1 combo and creality k1 max.
They have same price in my country.
Great video!! Can you please let us know which glue you use? Thanks!
I use Elmer's Craft Bond Extra Strength glue stick, which costs around $3 for a 25g tube.
Emissivity, shiny things read lower them than they actually are with a temp gun.
Hi Aurora. For someone who plans to print engineering material like Nylon and PA6 do you think the A1 + a DIY enclosure will be satisfactory or do you think the P1S is worth the extra investment? Really appreciate your detailed experiments!
P1S would be a much better option.
This is a great follow-up review. I was wondering Aurora what your thoughts on filament brands are? I understand you are sponsored by Voxel Lab, but I was wondering how you source filament colors from different brands.
In addition to VOXELPLA, I also use SUNLU and Eryone. All of them offer reasonable prices with good quality. I haven't noticed any significant differences between these budget brands and higher-priced ones. However, I did have a poor experience with some unbranded filaments in terms of quality. Regarding colors, even different batches of the same brand may exhibit slight variations, especially if you buy the same color after a few months or a year. Don't expect them to match exactly.
@@AuroraTech Thank you for the answer, this information will be much appreciated!
I seem to recall an uncle Jessie video he pulled/removed after printing light switch cover plates because PLA is not code and is a potential fire hazard. I would not be printing an electrical box unless I knew it was safe. Thoughts?
The best option would be to use self-extinguishing PETG filament (e.g. Prusament PETG V0 or PETG FRJet). It is a bit expensive but recommended for electrical enclosures.
I thought the same thing. Maybe she could coat it with some fire proofing spray or something to make it safer.
I am thinking of buying a hobby printer, maybe I can use it for business in the future. I'm torn between the A1 combo and the p1s. If I buy the p1s I won't be able to buy an ams for a while. P1s combo is really too expensive for me. What would be your advice
Depending on what you print, if you mainly use PLA, PETG, and TPU, you don’t need to print filaments that require an enclosure; the A1 works just fine.
With my A1 having to go back do you have an opinion on the P1s vs the A1 ? Is it an upgrade or would you stick with the A1 as its newer
keep the A1 if the cable look good, then wait for the new bed
Hi, should I consider kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke or Bambi lab a1?
A1. Please check out their rankings from my website auroratechchannel.com
What do you think is the max temperatur i can have in the enclosure?
If your keep the base out of the enclosure (not the bed) I would bet pretty high like 40C-50C. Ensure the base stays cool will be key as it is a passive heatsink.
Nicely narrated video. As I’m new to this, why would you enclose a 3D printer?😂 edit… just had to watch a few more minutes of the video to get my answer.
As materials and printers get better, I see less and less need for enclosed printers. However, there are still popular materials that need an enclosure to print.
I would just buy an enclosed one like the P1S like she advised for $699.
vocal warmup trills...were you a vocalist at one point?
Reflections knock temp wild with InfraRed; Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface: Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface
They implied a firmware fix for 100 C
Once I get the printer myself I'm gonna see if it's possible but anyone know if you can retract filliment before it cuts and changes filliment, if so has anyone experimented with this and had any positive results.
I'm going to do everything I can to reduce waist.
I'v seen some tips IE reduce purge, but iv not seen anyone try retracting first?
There's G-Code for the X1 that actually does this. I believe it can easily be adapted to the other bamboo printers. Apparently if you combine this process with maximizing waste as infill, you can significantly reduce the overall waste.
didn't you recognize that in many further tests the enclosure temperature only gets around 23°C? This explains a lot...
Because it was only enclosed for the second ASA print to observe the difference, all the covers were removed during the other prints.
@@AuroraTech okay. Thanks for the answer
Quick question guys, i'v been using an ultimaker from the beginning I have ordered an A1 and very excited my last printer was the Ultimaker S3.
So the question is, any one knows if there eis a way to use 2.85 filliment with the printer IE new hotend someone may sell. It's just so I can use up some old stock but I suspect it would probably just be better to sell them off and just buy new stock?
Don’t hold your breath, this machine is designed for the casual user. I seriously doubt anything will be offered to change such the fundamental function of the entire filament transfer system.
You need to dry nylon before and during printing.
Kind of odd this printer seems to struggle so much with technical materials. I know it's unenclosed, but other bed slingers seemed to do better with ABS and PC.
I'd say it's because of the temps in the garage she printed in
My garage isn't heated but I have 2 Antminer L7's in there. They produce more than enough heat for a double car garage and generate about $1400 CND /month dual mining litecoin and dogecoin. I pay 10 cents/Kwh averaged over 24 hours so profit is about $800. So free heat + $800 profit. No brainer.
In California, where we pay $0.45 per kWh, the same setup would result in a net loss of -$2,200 per month.
@@AuroraTech Yikes!! I didn't realize you were in Cali. Also, I didn't realize it gets cold in Cali. Love your videos. You're such a smart person.
Apparently you're not supposed to enclose the A1 series? (according to Bambu)
Due to the power supply potentially overheating, as she pointed out in her video.
What thermal camera did you get
InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera:
bit.ly/Thermal-Camera
Thank you
Brim, brim, brim... Always use brim when printing ABS/ASA.
00:55 Can you share what thermal camera you got?
Any thermal camera that attaches to your phone should work the same. The one I used has a resolution of 256x192, similar to these:
USB-C:
amzn.to/48d4V7A
Apple lightning:
amzn.to/48d4V7A
Thank you for the reply. I have always wanted one. If this is a good one for you it will work for me. Thank you.
@@AuroraTech I bought a phone with a built in thermal cam a couple months ago. If you have a heating blanket be sure to check it out, it's pretty of funny because it looks like the inside of a toaster.
BTW, the links you posted both go to the same page.
I just got a new one, the software is better, can check zones instead of just point.
InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera:
bit.ly/Thermal-Camera
Creality make fire proof tent-like enclosures, and they have filters fans in them too. Might be a much more economical solution for the occasional enclosure needs for A1 series
Bambu warns of using a tent or enclosure. Many wonder how the board is cooled. Still waiting to see what many figure out.
@@trugbilddrachen Vector 3D made a tear down on a live stream. There was no active cooling visible.
@@trugbilddrachen bambu answer that question in their website under A1 FAQ:
Why doesn't the motherboard have a cooling fan?
The design of A1 incorporates a heat sink that comes in contact with aluminum profiles. This layout increases the heat dissipation area, resulting in effective cooling. Therefore, the design of A1 does not include a cooling fan for the motherboard.
but it's conceivable that someone could try to expose the board and aim their own fan(s) at it. But probably best not to mess with it. I don't plan on using an enclosure for this printer ever. But i bet someone will rig it to work with a fan, or perhaps it's okay to enclosure it occasionally as Aurora did in this video.
13:27 You need to make a tutorial for this😂
Bambu in PrusaBox. Just like playing spiritism in a church. 😂
The day will come where you want to mod it, and you can't due to closed source firmware. Price is ok but it won't buy you good motors or hotends. Hotend limits my X1C to ~300mm/s @ 0.2mm layer with 0.4 nozzle and motors are responsible for massive VFA and ringing. I can't mod the X1c but I modded my K1 max. With new gantry, motors, rods, hotend for ~200$ extra, it now can print twice as fast as my K1C and still produces better quality - for half the price in total. I hardly use the X1C now, just for rare multi color prints. Better go prusa with multiple toolheads, even if printer is slower the time saving in filament switch makes it faster and no waste will compensate the price very fast.
unfair to not show a single timelapse from the integrated camera and to not demonstrate multimaterial
Always great but lately getting a little wordy
Recommend you try hairspray.
Just get P1S. Don't waste your money upgrading cheap machines. I did that and spent as much for X1C!
I'm impressed. And you know, just ask Nathan Builds Robots, Bambu Labs does not tolerate any dissent from their view that their machines are the best. (Despite proven otherwise)
Ok and which ones are the best in your opinion? NBR did a quite poor "review" of A1, very detached from the reality.
It's actually not "thermal laser". laser is just used for your visual aid and aiming. In addition to laser there is thermal sensor which kinda works like single dot thermal camera, but it has viewcone similar to flashlight, which can be quite widee. As the sheet might be reflective it might reflect too much ambient temperature and will give false readings and as it reads wider area. The angle of attack comes into play - on thermal camera you are looking farther away in a shallow angle, but with thermal "gun" you are looking straight at it's making all reflections to reflect the best (and ruin the outcome).
0:00 Chuckle
Hi ! Merry christmas. Dont get me wrong but i dont consider this testing acurate just because of the encloser.
Merry Christmas! It was enclosed only for the second ASA print to observe the difference, all the covers were removed during the other prints.
@@AuroraTech oh im so sorry for that then.. it seemed to me that you used it for all prints i was kind of dissapointed.. glad you are making those test same for every print i just did notunderstand eveyrithing in the vid. Once again im sorry for such acusation 😄🤦
I mean, all the other bedslingers were not tested inside an enclosure, why all this effort to make the Bambulab look better?
Also it's not true that for engineering materials you should buy the X1 - P1S: you should buy a QIDI as those have proper heating chambers and are even cheaper! Even the small X-Smart that is cheaper than the A1 is way better for eng materials.
/sad
Yes it is sad that you are angry. You won't change minds even if you are right if you have a negative attitude. She didn't say the best printer to buy for engineering-grade materials, she said better. Qidi may well be better again. But is not an engineering grade printer. The small and cheap X-smart doesn't have a heated chamber (neither do any Bambus?) and is smaller than A1 mini. Only 3 Qidi filament have MAX a nozzle temp above the x1carbons 300deg nozzle vs up to 350deg Qidi and may still work. (280-320deg: UltraPa, PAHT-CF, PET-CF). None of the Qidi filaments require a chamber temp above 45deg the X1 carbons passive, leaky, non-insulated chamber is 60 vs Qidi's 65. I would love to see your a1 and X-Smart prints comparison.
@@glenhamilton8414 The X-Smart can be used for eng materials even if it does not have a heating chamber: it is small and closed so the internal temp stays over 50c, not ideal but it is way better than an open frame like the A1.
The A1 mini build volume is 180x180x180 mm, Qidi X-Smart is 175*180*170mm: they are almost the same size.
All the other QIDI have a proper heating chamber so they are better than the X1 - P1S - P1P for eng materials.
@@eaman11 see we agree. Remember I never said bambu was better than qidi. Just that x1mini is bigger than xsmart. Which it is.
If Naomi Wu had chosen this style of look / content, she would still be active on youtube
...and that is relevant how??
🤦♂️
lol......
Merry Christmas!