Nightmare problems with BMW M3 brake pads and hoses
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- How to change BMW brake pads.
How to change BMW brake hoses.
How to remove a stuck car wheel.
Road-and-Race.co.uk
CZcams: / roadandracetv
Twitter: @RoadandRaceTV
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The tools used in this video can be bought here: road-and-race.co.uk/tools - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Oh I know how frustrating it is when a perfectly straightforward job turns into a nightmare..!! Good job on getting it done!
Thanks mate, glad to know someone else has felt that pain!
Everyone who ever worked on anything surely has experienced that. :-)
As a guy that work on my own car I only too well understand and feel your pain, these are issues that happen in real life when working on a car but are usually not covered on how to videos....I enjoyed your video thanks
if you don't want problems or make your life easyer use your head.
Love the quality of content on the channel. You bring professionalism to BMW DIY videos on CZcams. Entertaining and informative, keep it up
Thanks for the kind words mate.
Regarding your wheels being stuck on - it's the copper slip you are using on the hubs that's causing it. You even mention galvanic corrosion - that white/yellow crud - the copper is reacting with the alloy of your wheels. It's starts corroding the aluminium as it's less noble than copper. I'd stop using it for that and use something like CeraTec instead and only on the lip of the wheel where it snugs against the wheel hub.
Anyway, great content, nicely done ;). I've been caught out by the 7mm too!
My first Bimmer was a 1971 Bavaria - it had four pistons/front caliper. I went airborn and froze one on the rebound. It could be driven all day at top end, My first mechanic was prez of BCCA. Learn a lot but now we have great CZcams’s like yours.
This video has all the problems I've had with mine. Laugh out loud funny at your commentary, even the halfrauds tool kit issue which I also had. Brilliant. Subscribed.
Glad you found the trick to replacing the lines.
Great brake fluid that Castrol SRF. It has a very high boiling point! Maybe not 500C but much much higher than standard DoT4.
You also realise when you work on a Porsche that they are engineered as track cars rather than as road cars, as is the case with BMWs.
You deserve wayyyy more subscribers
Thanks Sami, so kind of you to say. Tell all your friends!
I’m really glad I found your channel, I am crying with laughter at your lack of mechanical skill, still good effort mate and fair play for trying.
Great video! E92 M3 owners from the states appreciate it!
Thank you so much for the tipp to actualy turn the brake hose and not the steel line... its probably going to safe me many troubles :D
Excellent video! I love your expression in the taxi. Priceless! 😂😂😂 Glad everything worked out.
Cheers Collin. Wasn't sure to include the taxi bit but glad I did now! It smelt really bad in there!
Brilliant video! Very entertaining and insightful!
I have to agree with your purchase of the 1/2" impact driver, they're brilliant! Obviously only for the tough nuts and time saving and not as you pointed out in the beginning of the video by cutting corners and over tightening nut's...
dude I loved your vid, fantastic rapport with the viewer, have liked and subbed
Thanks mate, glad you liked it! I appreciate the sub!
Great tip at 6:10. I couldnt find a guide online and couldn't figure out why the flex hose wouldn't turn on the rear of my e90 until i watched this video! Awesome car by the way.
How did you get the clip off.?
Nice video.I had worked on Tyres for 10 years, to torque wheel bolts to spec is very important,(lots of reasons) unfortunately not all the shops do. To take wheel off, you can extended you break bar, there is chance break you break bar or bolts, no loctite on bolts or studs, I've seen some shop do that. There is a trick to get stuck wheel off,
1 break bolts off (don't take them off yet)
2 jack your car up securely (wheel off ground)
3 take all the bolts off,rescrew 2 back on, just 2-3 turns
4 grab a heavy rubber mallet, get under the car, hit inside the wheel (gotta be on the wheel,not on the tyre) try get the car up high enough that you will have enough room grabbing and swinging mallet with 2 hands. Easier to do on a lift, I have never unable to take a wheel off
5 put a little bit grease on hub, next time won't happy again
If you snapped the brake line, make sure don't let fluid drain to much, if master cylinder run dry, you will have to do heap more work to recover.
you got a new sub after this video alone keep up good work and quality videos
Thanks for the kind words and the sub mate!
I love your channel, keep up the good work!
Big thanks Nicholas, so kind of you to say!
Excellent how to! I had exactly the same problem with overtightened wheel bolts on mine, shearing two OE BMW lock nuts in the process. And of course, no copper grease either. Also bought a Makita impact wrench but even that struggles from time to time
BMW M3 S65B40 Thanks for saying so! Yeah garage mechanics just don’t care so they.
Dwl 😬 awesome video man I go through this every time I go to fix my bmw’s most of the time I keep a 12 pack of beer 🍺 for my frequent stop to scratch my head
Great episode. It never fails. Whenever you think something will take an hour, or half a day, it is usually double with cars. Also, if it makes you feel better, both my focus and GTI require removal of the entire caliper to change pads. It sure is a hassle. ;)
Thanks mate. Yeah, so true!
I did exactly the same jobs on my 335i , couldn't believe calipers where only single piston sliding , then I changed the pads on my modern classic Mercedes E320 coupe , gobsmacked to find they're 4piston .
Loved it,
You are epic... I still have the 987 3.2 Boxster.... but I must admit I am tempted by the M3.... Thanks for your vids...
Thanks for such kind words Davey.
Haha I'm sorry man, I feel your pain!!!! Just started doing lots of preventative maintenance on my '09 1 series and it really is a nightmare often times even with all the correct tools. I think the major issue is not having a two post lift and being able to easily get the car up off the ground so high you can stand under it. I've got jacks and stands but laying on a creeper and working upside down presents it's own problems. I see this video is a couple years old and I haven't looked into your other content yet so I hope everything turned out fine with your car!
Well done all the hard work eventually paid off
While diy changing brake pad and rotors on my lexus, i learned a lot from dealing with few other surprises such as seized caliber sliding pin, ripped bleeding valve of new caliber and reordered one... and... but after all, I got to know my car better.
I had EXACTLY the same experience, as I'm doing the brakes on my Z3..had to stop and go to B&Q to buy a set of Hex fittings as I had everything bar a 7mm!.. plus got stuck getting the brake lines off so ordered brake wrenches...then couldn't get the hose out of the caliper so used a blow torch to heat the connection..that didn't work so now ordering new hoses!
Use WD-40 or similar on the hardline nut. Never had any issues with hardlines breaking due to stuck nuts when using WD-40.
Nice video again, just a quick one losing that extension and replacing with a deep socket will massively help in the torque you can put through that bar. At the moment most of the force is trying to push the extension to the floor, as if you where hanging off it from underneath :)
Cheers Jeremie. Nice top tip there, will def try that out next time.
I use two short like 30cm steel pipes to extend the ends of a T wrench so I can apply force evenly to get the wheel bolts off
wow, thx for the tip about retaining clip where break line connects to break hose
Glad to help
Lol I have exactly the same socket set which was bought to me as a Christmas present last year by my partner and I love it. have done loads of work on my CaymenS with it including replacing rear shocks and springs and it hasn't missed a beat. 👍
Yeah, it's a great set (apart from no 7mm!!!!!). Good job doing the rear shocks, that's a dedicated piece of work that one!
Really enjoyed it apart from removing the the plastic panels to get access to the top shock mounts. Nightmare. 😩
You are not alone my friend. Doing brakes on my current e92 and previous bmw's, I've had the same exact experiences with +200ft lbs torqued wheel bolts and stuck wheels.. Made me laugh pretty hard actually. Cheers for the laugh and getting through the job!
+James Powell Thanks James, good to know I'm not the only one who had this problem!
this is very enjoyable to watch :)
Thanks Nour, glad you liked watching it!
What order did you replace the brake lines? 2 in the middle first and then the other 4 at the calipers after that? Doing this job this weekend so would be good to know. Cheers!
Just discovered your channel and I LOVE it! I was even more excited to see you on Abingdon airfield as I live in Wantage and have thought about taking my 335i on there. Btw, im a part time videographer so if you are local to Abingdon I’d love to meet up sometime and maybe shoot some stuff. All the best!
Big thanks Lee. So kind of you to say! Always happy to have a videographer shoot some stuff although I live in Peterborough - too far?
Road and Race that’s a shame, what brought you to Abingdon airfield? Surely there’s nicer tracks near you? Peterborough is a bit out of the way but I’m willing to travel.
In the repair instruction bmw actually says not to lubricate the slide pins for some reason, they want them dry
Out of interest what model impact driver have you bought ?
I'm going to say this is one job to give to a relatively inexpensive but knowledgeable BMW indy garage. I've changed a sticking caliper myself and pads but if you waste days, injure yourself and have to buy tools it's going to be cheaper.
I've also had to use a breaker bar to get wheel nuts off. very worried they were going to break inside the wheel.
Great video! Just discovered you a few minutes ago
Thanks Bryan! Had a look at your channel too, some nice vids on there mate.
Road and Race thanks! We're starting a new build, this week!
InstaBlaster
Try and find some brass caliper guide pin bushings. Awesome upgrade.
I have the same makita impact driver and its smaller brother, the largest one will even rip hub bolts/nuts off its amazing.
Wow, what a beast!
Guessing you never replaced the rear brake hoses? Mine were an absolute pain to do and took 3 days. Think it would be easier to drop the subframe!
So to get the midline out you pinched the retaining clip? I haven’t been able to get my mid line out :(
hi what model makita did u use to remove the wheels bolts Thanks
Can you tell me what 'ramps' you are using. I'm after a set and the one's you are using look pretty good ? Had the same problem with a stuck wheel....at 2am on a wet motorway...gotta love those BMW run flat tyres !!! fortunately I purchased a space saver spare that saved the day - once the wheel was off. Your video's are great - by the way.
They are by Race Ramps. Expensive but amazing.
I always thought it was pull to release push to tighten?? Are you based anywhere near Cheshire?
You shouldn't put grease on the contact surface of the brake disc/hub, only on the portruding center where you fixate the wheel. The friction is caused by this area and exaggerated by the bolt tension!
Also Copper Grease can melt if it gets really hot. Just a tip for an otherwise great video!
Is this filmed near white details?
Nice video. How much did you purchase your brake hardlines for? Mine sheered off too... And now need to replace the driver's side rear line on E93.
Thanks mate. Can’t remember but they weren’t that expensive even from BMW. I think £80 for both?
Haha, this is how essentially every project goes for me. I feel your pain! But, we always get the job done...eventually. Keep on, keepin’ on.
PS, a wife or brother is handy to get you to the parts store for when your car is in bits and you don’t have all of the bits you need, lol.
That M3 is mega cool.
Wow amazing video! Your narration sounds like from a TV show! Content is amazing too! Liked and subscribed. Great job and keep up the good work.
Can I please make a request? Can you please make a video on how to jack up your BMW and put it on 4 jackstands? I'm very curious as to how the BMW jack pads sit on the jack stand. I'm worried about the plastic jack pad slipping off from the jackstands if I don't do it correctly.
Thank you!
+dragger168 Thanks mate that's very high praise indeed! Big thanks for the like and the sub. Will try to do a quick video as your request although I'm not working on the car for a bit.
Road and Race not a problem. I'd appreciate it if you can remember this request when you next work on your car and put it up on jackstands. Perhaps on your next oil change?
I'm mainly interested to see the sequence at which you jack your car up with the intention of putting all 4 corners on jackstands. And how does each jackpad sit on the jackstand. I'm worried on doing this to my BMW because I'm afraid that the plastic jack pad might slip from the jackstand while I'm underneath the car. I'm used to cars with reinforced pinch welds for jack stand placement.
+dragger168 Have you considered getting ramps? I don't work under stands, I don't trust them.
Road and Race I do have ramps right now. I've used it to change the oil of the car. But my ramps don't have a lot of lift like race ramps. And I think it's just so cool to put your entire car on 4 jack stands. But the BMW jack pads are new to me and quite frankly, scary.
Quick tip use the jacks long bar as leverage by sliding it on the strong bar
Cool, thanks for the top tip!
You can also use the jack stand under the extension bar as a pivot point. And try hitting the extension bar with a mallet to jar it loose.
2:01 would have been much easier to just stand on the wrench rather than pushing by hands.
Did you use Axle Stand Pad?
thx for vid... use a shorter extention if any on the breaker bar dude..
Did the 500c brake temp shown at the end of the video, INCLUDE or EXCLUDE a dedicated 'cool down lap' after your track session??? It is always advisable to run an additional lap at a much slower speed to help cool the fluid, rotors, and pads before parking the car after a spirited driving session.😉
Excellent point. Usually i would do a cool down lap but in this instance I want to show how hot the dics got so no cool down lap.
How much does this actually save versus just paying a shop to do it?
When something straightforward turns out to a nightmare like upgrading my E92’s headlights to angel eyes leds and finding out the cables can’t be moved a lot because they’ll break. Apparently the sun in Greece is so hot that almost melted the rubber around them...
Top tip!!!! Wheel bolts overtightened... Use your jack handle in conjunction with your breaker bar for immense torque...
Also.. Safety tip... Place all removed wheels under the car in case something gives, might just save your life... or your legs depending on what's under the car as it falls...
The one piston setup has just about the same clamping force as a 6 piston, it all comes down to heat dissipation. Pads is a good choice because BBK all round is over £7k. The point you get a BBK you may as well strip the car and spend a similar amount on coilovers. Then race car...
Cool, didn't know that is has the same clamping force. Good to know. Thanks!
The 7mm is rare even in expensive key kitts because is used in a safety sistem like brakes.
Ah ha! That makes sense. Thanks!
Whahahahaha! I did my brakes too last weekend. Had the same problem...3sets of hex....no 7mm. Lucky I am not the only one.
I never understand why no kits have the 7mm one as it the one you need the most!! Almost all ford calliper bolts are 7mm.
@@Sierra747 and Vauxhall.
What race ramp model is that? Will it rub as you drive up going forward? I wonder if those rr can be used as jack stands if you place on all 4 wheels?
+Ryver Choy Can't recall but it's the low profile one that separates. No rubbing. Yep, definitely.
another thing that happens, is that people grease the bolts/threads, what happens is this INCREASES the torque applied and hence puts too much force on, wheel bolts should only be put on dry.
Your video speaks for all of us haha
use you breaker bar properly. this means having it parallel to the ground for optimal leverage
Found this funny.... I been there. So I have the same Halfords kit and been doing my brakes on my e93 330. You DIDNT NEED to buy the 7mm bit coz that little red box in the Halfords set has that bit in there. The wheels being welded.... well I feel your pain coz mine were beonnd fuckers to get off. I wanted to do my hoses but with wot I've seen I think I'll just leave them
After changing your fronts, did you have any problems with rubbing? I have noises that go away when braking, but when driving along even at say 40mph, there is a rubbing sound, almost like the rotor is wobbling. Both wheels were torqued correctly. Wondering if ive damaged the hub or didnt install something right
No, no problems with rubbing. Are the pads fitted correctly?
So I was a moron and did not torque my wheels - they were a little loose. Feel pretty stupid ! All fine now
Good to hear.
Enjoyed watching this 😊
I prefer buying DeWalt. Bought Makita, Bosch, Metabo, but they all had crap quality. I mean sure, if you have a 1000$ Bosch drill it might perform okay, but then you could just buy a DeWalt of any price range and it will work superb. Seen people scoff at it, I mean, everyone has brand preferences. But so far, I am super satisfied. Bought a kit of wireless tools, I was amazed. Bought a table saw after. They all work like charm, brought back my fate in wireless tools just right when I was close to losing it.
With that said, Hilti tops it all. But no regular Joe can afford a Hilti tool.
What kind of ramps do you use please?
Race Ramps
I am a DIYer myself. What a satisfying thing it is - man and machine! Your videos really resonated with me. I had an e91, 328i with 3 pedals, which I did all the work on, what would have cost nearly 15k at the dealership, all in my front driveway. I currently own a 2012 e82, 128 with 3 pedals. I am curious, how much editing do you do to these videos? I think at the point of shearing that brake line, I would have lost my cool and dropped a few obscenities.
Good to hear from a fellow DIYer! I agree it’s more satisfying. A fair bit of editing takes place but I half expected to ruin the brake lines and they’re not too expensive.
Do you keep these pads on for normal use too? If so, do they squeal?
Yes. They squeal a lot for the first 2000 miles or so then settle down. Still squeal a little though.
Thanks dude.
You shouldn't use copper grease on brakes, especially on high performance brakes.
Use ceramic paste instead!
Was gonna do it myself until I saw this vid, now thinking twice.
DUDE I LOVE YOU! please more m3 videos on modifications and engine mods. I know you can't do a lot but atlas the ones you can do!
Wow, so kind of you to day! Will try!!!!
did you change the discs or were they still in spec?
I measured the discs and they were still fine.
Any thoughts on the 2006 645ci? good or bad? someone wants to trade one to me for my 99 996.
Sorry David not has the pleasure of driving one. Wanting to go down a more practical route?
Cheers. I agree it is a large car.
By the way, why don't you buy a second cheap car that you can just use when you work on the M3? I mean, it sounds luxurious, but the "Car Throttle" did the same, and it seems like a wise thing to do. I am no talking about an expensive sedan, but some small "banger car" that you just hop in, take it to the shop, can park it right in front of the entrance, and so on. (We use a Suzuki for this purpose. It works 24-7-365 with zero maintenance. Only have to change tires per season, add fuel and oil and it's good to go.)
theres a 7mm hex bit in the little red box !!
Like the part when you sitting in the taxi with the parts smiling. 👍🏻
Cheers mate! Was happy to have the parts and be on my way home!
Do those pads dust like crazy?
+Michael Broski Yeah, quite a lot but no more than other racing pads I've used such as EBC Bluestuffs.
The Problem with the Brakelines is that they are Plastic Coated, when water comes under that Coat its getting wider and make it inpossible to turn the Nut. Too much Force and you sheerd up the Line, best solution is to give the Nut a little Heat.
2:01 I Remember Doing That Lol!
Good stuff!
Didn't realise discs get that hot, even when on track.
My factory steel brake work just fine on the track after 3-4 hours.
There are several good techniques
That will save all your issues and taxi fees but watching you was entertaining ok I chuckled a bit sorry
Entertaining...
The last mechanic acted like he was bolting on train wheels.
next time for removing "glued" wheel , spray in little holes between screws on rim with WD
Hi - slightly painful to watch, only because I can relate to you wanting to do the jobs yourself but can see how much easier, cheaper and safer it would be to pay a good garage instead? Looking forward to the next instalment....
It was harder than expected but i'd expect this with a new car. Most of the issues going forward have been worked out so should be easier to work on next time. For me, I'll always work on my car myself - I just don't trust a garage to do a better job!
well... copper grease on hubs is not a good idea... copper in contact with aluminium causes chemical reaction, called also corrosion. Next time it will be even harder to put those wheels down.
Better use some silicone paste or white antiseize.
You're probably right although I've done this on previous cars for many years without problem.
i subbed bro
Thanks for the sub mate!
BMW brakes are annoying. One of my biggest wishes is a big brake kit like the ones from StopTech or Brembo to make changing the pads easier.
Yeah, not so bad now I know what I'm doing but, yeah, there are much better designs out there.
lol i love your humor dude lol
Thanks Damion. Glad you liked it. Some people don't so it great to hear you enjoyed it!
Well done you, pita!
Cheers dude!
Be thankful it's not a Mercedes with an SBC braking system now that's a world of pain.
Spray every nut or bolt you are undoing with WD40 beforehand..might save some problems
If unlucky your wheels are also crooked by the too tight nuts.