How To quickly Check Your Brake Pads and Rotors - Don't Waste $$ Changing them Too Soon!!
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2024
- Did your mechanic say your brake pads need replacing? Are they making noise? Before you pull the trigger and spend lots of $$$ you can check them on your own and sometimes you don't even have to remove your wheels!
In this video Josh shows you how to check the shape of your brake pads no matter what vehicle you have. He also covers how to know when it is indeed time to get a new set of pads.
Thanks for watching and if you haven't already, please like this video and subscribe to our channel! It really helps us continue making new and useful content.
Mahalo! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you so much for your video. I’m a 66 year old widow and this was great information for me
As a rule, I'm highly critical of CZcams presenters as to professional (or entertaining) content, clarity, factual information, etc . . . that said, I rate this video A+. Nice work!
Great video and best content i could find on brakes check. What i like about is his open-mindnes in taking most possible cases... which is totally opposite of the rest youtubers ("happy-happy with wishful thinking).
Considering what can happen if you let pads go too long, I don't think I'd worry about trying to get the last possible mile out of them. If you aren't trained in this area, find a reputable shop that will put the car up on a lift and then let you inspect the pads and rotors with the technician. You want to inspect both the outer and inner pad thickness on each wheel, they should be very close to the same thickness if the brakes are working correctly. If one pad is significantly thinner than the other, that indicates a problem with the caliper sticking. Just changing pads without fixing the caliper is not a good idea. If you need to change the pads on one side of the vehicle, change the other side as well. Make sure to check the rear brakes as well as the front, often the wear of the rear brakes is less than the front and you will only need to change the fronts. I've owned vehicles in the past that wore out two sets of front pads before the rears needed to be replaced. And lastly, even if the pads weren't allowed to wear so far the metal backing damaged the rotor, you may need to to replace the rotors anyway. Rotors wear even when the pads are in good shape, and you can see and feel a ridge near the edge of the rotor. There is a minimum thickness specification for rotors, and the technician should measure the rotors and check the surface finish. Installing new pads on rough rotors will just make the new pads wear faster, and running rotors that are too thin will cause excessive heat buildup. These days few shops refinish rotors, most are just replaced with new parts.
I was just told I'm at 4mm and a little rust on the rotors. They showed a picture of the pads and they said I could wait but recommended the rotors as soon as possible. $1200 for the front and back before taxes. They nuts!!!
Rockauto!
Don’t do it. They are ripping you off!
Way too much $$
Let me guess was it Midas?
@@theloneviking9145 Toyota dealership
Being from the rust belt of Michigan, it's important to check wear between the inside and outside pad. If there is a big difference, check your slide pins. I found that my pins had seized due to rust. The inside pad was getting all the wear while the outside looked ok. Due to the pin being rust "welded", I replaced the caliper also.
I think this could be happening with mine, when I look at the rotor there is only shiny metal in the middle then a thick rim of rust on the outside, seems like only the middle of the pad is actually being used.
Well-greased, free-moving slider pins are so important... and when they get rust-welded in, sometimes not all the heat in the world will release them. I actually was able to bend one of the pins, it was so seized..... new caliper time! yay! lol
You definitely earned my sub. This helped a lot and will definitely use these tips next time I go to the mechanic.
Such an honest, professional explanation. Thanks for this most useful content, cars are crucial and expensive to maintain if the owners don't know about mechanics. Also it is easy to be scammed or tricked into buying new parts when some of the parts are still useful .
I had a couple thoughts to add, first and foremost don't rely on those brake wear indicators because they can rot off even in non-salted areas. Secondly, don't go to the dealer at all unless you absolutely have a need to because after 2020 and probably for the next five years, most dealers are running this scam where a brake problem comes in, quote $1500 for parts and labor, and offer to buy your vehicle and give you money down on a new lease after the job is declined. The dealers don't even work on cars either, just slap on new parts and attempt to dupe folk who don't know any better into fearing a false repair bill. It's not like dealers haven't done it before but seems to be more widespread currently.
Anyways great video, nice to see CZcams recommending channels like yours. They never seem to feature mine.
During covid my piano teacher got a brand new Honda passport, her previous car, 06 Honda pilot was in perfect working condition. I wasn't sure why she got a different car but she said that her car had a bunch of problems yada yada. She might've been duped from a dealer like you said, stealerships are such a scam. Just last week I needed my wheel locks to be removed and replaced with regular lug nuts (I lost the key and didn't want to buy a new one, I also provided the lug nuts) and they quoted me $57, for what?
@@cjadventures8840 I bought a lug nut remover tool from Auto Zone for probably $15 (it was a while ago, so I don't remember the exact price) and took off all the locking lug nuts.
No idea where you got that information from, but sounds like a lot of here say. I’ve been at dealers for 10 years and have never experienced this from west to east coast. Not saying there aren’t people like this, but it’s not a dealer problem, it’s a tech problem. Independent shops if anything are worse. I’ve been at independent shops that were extremely shady. Thanks to me, they got sued and had to pay out.
@codywinkle2303 I've been waiting over a year to clarify my comment. I can agree that the issues I've had could be related to the shop itself and not particularly associated with dealerships. Like yourself, I have had service done at dealerships before and usually didn't have much hearsay to be heard. However, in the last year I had an independent shop and a dealership do parts gouging and parts slapping, that's the dealer I mentioned in my previous comment that wanted $1500 for a brake caliper and front brakes. I declined their offer and then went to the independent shop that wanted $1200 for new brakes and rotors for all four wheels and a reman caliper.
No one wanted to fix a simple seized caliper and warped rotor, they wanted to overcharge and scare me into believing the car would "catch on fire" as the dealership's service advisor put it to force the sale. A week later that dealership sent a letter offering money down on the vehicle attempting to force another sale. The hostile buying and selling technique by the dealer is what I wrote about, but I didn't have a bad experience at the independent shop yet that would have changed my perspective on things. I would have commented something different.
In New England I find that pads and rotors go bad quicker due to the rust. Slide pins get stuck, the pads get stuck in the brackets, the calipers seize, the rotors get nice big rust rings/lips, etc! Customers sometimes complain about having just replaced their brakes the previous year and only did 10k miles and not their brakes are bad again?! This can happen! The best kept cars are garaged, people who are easy on their brakes, people who don't let their cars sit too long, etc.
Didn't think I would like this video, but you literally said everything I tell customers! Liked!
How about coated or silver-zync dycromated rotors and not using cheap pads ?
Thank you. I'd been recommended to change all four rotors and pads, and this would have been okay, as I knew the job must be pending but I did further research and ended up just taking the whole wheel off for a good look, as you showed. And this gave me a much better view. A neighbour helped me check first, as you showed. I've just done fronts for now and I'm more confident in checking periodically. Your editing skills raised the quality and value for me. You've affirmed belief that I can monitor pads more closely and finesse those last few mm. I noticed the fore part of the pad can be thinner than the aft (rear) part. Thanks again.
Thank you for such a clear concise video. I learned a lot from you today and feel empowered to change my own brake pads!
Thank you for this! I'm trying to learn to service my own vehicle because service shop prices are INSANE. Plus it's just interesting!
I love this video. Covers the important material with detail and context, no condescending attitude or acting like we should already know this stuff!
And its explained very simply too so even people who aren't in the trade can understand. 10/10. Love it. You have a new fan!
it's also empowering to be able to do it yourself. :) changing oil, brake pads, and spark plugs are the big ones to know, but i've found out that even changing water pumps and radiators is ... well, much more difficult, but very much do-able. i have had BMW's and now a Mercedes, so i "had to" change the radiator myself, and it is not easy, but absolutely do-able. especially with all these great youtube videos of regular people doing it themselves
I agree with the comment regarding detail and context, instilling the belief that we can do this.
Thanks man. This answered EVERY question I had. 10/10
Awesome video, the amount of information given and the way it was present was top tier.
Thank you and I will keep this for future reference!
Mahalo!
Great content! I run Brembos on my Challenger Scat, it's coming up on the 2 year time frame, I will check them in the spring when I take it back out of storage. You can access them pretty good from the outside with the OEM rims.
Safety note: ALWAYS use jack stands to support a vehicle after raising it with a jack (in case the jack fails).
Thanks for this. That was the clearest explanation I’ve ever heard. 👍🏼👍🏼
Great job ! Appreciate to organized, right to the point presentation.
This is a great Video. Definitely feel more comfortable about understanding this. Thanks much appreciated.
We live in the Southern Sierra just outside Sequoia National Park (like a half mile outside). It’s a forty mile trip to shopping or doctor appointments. One way. If not for tourists and two traffic lights, I can and have driven all the way without using my brakes at all. And that’s downhill. Coming back is even easier. Drivers from the flats amaze me at how much braking they do. Especially uphill. I often remark to my wife, ‘I’ll bet that driver buys brakes pretty often”. My 2017 Tacoma has 49k on it and is nowhere NEAR ready for pads. Cheers. Good video
How do you do That, do you have manual transmission? With automatic transmission how do you avoid using brakes ? Thanks.
@wild downshift it yourself or brake Early but light pressure
Excellent presentation! Thank you!
Mahalo Bro !! Never been to HI but would love to.
Just used your 3.3 v6 alternator video to complete success. Big props Sir :)
I'll
Pleasant personality. Speaking voice. Wonderful information.
100% agree. Great voice and pace makes this an outstanding video.
good details on when to change rotors
Awesome video. Everything I needed to know.
I've always done same as what Josh states here, just checked the pads and rotors on my 1988 Mazda truck last week; at 233K miles, still on factory rotors and rear drums. And my 1998 Frontier (275K) and my 2004 Frontier (106K) are still on their original rotors and rear drums as well.
Man your channel is really great! Keep it up! Valuable practical content 👍👍👍👍
Yes thank you so much. Recently widowed and I at least can inspect and make my own decisions about if my brake pads need to be replaced
I’m sorry for your loss. Learning about usual car maintenance is pretty easy and for everyone regardless of our background. CZcams has many quick, helpful videos other than this to learn how to inspect when your car needs certain things maintained and/or replaces other than this one. I wish you the best, and I hope you find the courage (and patience) to even work on your own car. Best wishes
Great info regarding brake pad check! Another cause of brake noise is due to a rock being trapped in the brake assembly.
Good morning Josh
John Chan the fisherman, 54 year old lawman, will retire at 55. I changed all fluid on my cars. The only thing I have my trusted mechanic to do my brakes. I don't want to deal with espestoss, bad news for human lungs.
Enjoy watching your video, I think you're one of the highly honest mechanic I ever listen to. Bravo to young man, it's too bad when I retire, my wife and I will move to Florida not Hawaii, haha.
From now on I will inspect my own brakes.
Thank you B safe
Cool story bro
Automotive brake material has not been made from asbestos in decades.
Great content, I just found this channel today and almost if not every video is a masterpiece, why isn't it common ...I'm learning alot...thanks a lot ...
I’m glad you found me 🤙🏽
Good info. I didn’t know we can inspect our own brake this way. Usually, when I have my tires balance and rotate, Les Schwab check my brake too or at least I think they did cause my invoice always have information regarding the brake.
I just love these videos wish i had the tools. Regardless though I feel more informed
Nice work bro. Appreciate the simplicity
I try 🤙🏽
Thanks Josh. Great job. Good info. God bless. Liked & subscribed.
Great content mate…. Your video is very informative
Thank you, very informative.
Thanks for the thoughtful review.
Lots of great tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you i spend hundred on brakes Pads for nothing you are good man
Good points! A US penny is ~1.5 mm thick. If the mechanic recommend a change based on using a caliper and pads, measure 4mm. The DIYer should just go ahead and change it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't all rotors have a minimum thickness stamped along the outer circumference of the inner area where the studs go through? Mine do, though I had to scrub them to see it. I measured them with a dial caliper. Something like 21mm minimum thickness for mine and I was at 22-23 as I recall.
I learned a lot from this video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful 🤙🏽
Great video. Thank you
Very helpful video..thanks
Very well presented. I'd add the importance of checking both inside and outside pads because they'll wear unevenly, if the caliper freezes in the mount. Been there 🙂
Great video.
Thanks a lot for another great video, I have been many times cheated from Shops, I don't trust them anymore, SO I LEARNED TO DO JOB SELF AND SAFE A LOT OF MONEY. Thanks again and God bless
Good job 👏🏼
great info video ... !!!
A really good video. Great info for inexperienced shade tree mech like me
Glad it was helpful!
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii definitely 👍
I'm not seeing a ring on that finger, and thats very exciting 😊
He may not be wearing one for safety reasons. Rings are dangerous around machinery
Great video! Very easy to learn as a beginner DIY'er :)
Glad you think so!
Thank you. I've been upset with my mechanic for removing the pads to show me they were ok,, even though scraping sound with braking. I guess that's OK. I did go ahead and replaced brakes and roters, no more scraping and brakes much better, buy a little squeaky.
Great video and channel. Cheers. 😊
Thank you! Cheers!
GOOD JOB
You are the best explaining and thanks for sharing your skills thanks!!
You're very welcome!
Thx so much. This is so helpful. I’m about to go get my brakes done and don’t want to be price gouged.
This was an awesome quick video. Helped me do my brakes today rather than paying $3-400 for the front brakes.
I told my ex husband that once or twice depending on who is Even that time
I not only subscribed , but clicked for every notification.
I just bought a car and as you know , they’re quite an investment.
Your videos are informative and helpful.
Thanks!
Here in Maine the roads are paved with salt for 5 months. The rotors build up with rust on the inner face long before the pads are worn out. Braking is still fine but you begin to hear a grumbling sound, and feel it, when braking. Seems the outer surface always looks fine. I am always shocked when I see how bad the inside looks. Just replaced front pads and rotors on my Equinox, Rock Auto had a good quality rebuild kit (Raybestos)for $150. Just needed a tube of brake grease and some fluid film from local parts store. Took about 2 hours total working on the floor, no lift. I'm 75+ and have done many brake replacements, both front and rear, over the years. Did the Equinox rear with the electric parking brake last year with no problems.
Good work!
Cool story bro
I'm pretty sure they don't actually "pave" the roads with salt.
Thanks for your video
Most welcome
Très belle démonstration
Thanks for the great video
You bet
great advice
Thabks
thanks for the education
Truth at last. Subscribed.
Thanks!
Nice video.
It’s funny that this video was just recommended to me. Last week I was getting a transmissible fluid change and the shop recommended new rear brake pads. I denied the service because I planned to do it on my own… when I dug in and removed the pads they were worn to about 50% compared to the new pads I bought a while ago when I heard the squealing that turned out to just be a bent pad insulator.
This was a respected independent shop… so they at least offered a reasonable price on the work, but still.
Still… diy!!
Thank you! Just wanted it explained to me simply. Tired of them handing me $2000 estimates and I don't trust them.
$2000? I’ll opt for the accident.😜🤪
Thank you,i am 64 and the more i can do myself the happier i am,ego aside,i only have a motorcycle so pads are no problem for me or drums,but i never did a car although i am very familiar with the process although i never did a car before i always wanted to so i will try my wifes 2012 chevy sonic with 45,000 miles on it,so wish my luck,i appreciate your video very much,thank you.
Is this first time to replace the brakepad for 45000miles?
good video.
Great vid, I started doing fixes myself on my girlfriends vehicle an she hasn’t had her brakes changed once an it’s sitting at 104km driven. I’m about to take the wheel off an see how bad the damage is. Thanks
great video appreciate --yes disclaimer agree
Always use a jack stand! Rotors have a minimum thickness and require replacement if that limit is reached.
I like to wear them down to the cooling vanes in the center. I save millions with this simple trick.
Thank You so much ❤
My large SUV I just purchased has 6mm on the front pads. I was told I need to resurface my warped rotors on the front and agree. Should I replace the pads at the same time?
Thank for being fare with all love your video for people like you😂
Great video
Thanks!
Also, from my experience the front brake pads wear out faster then the rear. Most of the time about twice as fast. On my pick up, the rear pads lasted over 100k miles. But I did check them several times.
I thought the front pads wear out first but my state inspector told me that I should replace my rear pads soon (but still passed me). - as they are almost worn out but my front pads were still okay !! My car is almost 6 years old , bought new - with 125,000 miles on it - never had a brake job done -same pads. Yes, I do alot of highway miles but do some stop and go at times. (2017 Tucson AWD).
from everyones experience
Not just that, but the front driver side tends to wear faster than front passenger side.
Appreciate you!!
Thank you sir!!!
Don' see/ hear anything recently about "turning rotors". Is it an option still? Thanks for the great video. LOVE. PEACE. God Bless
love your channel very helpful thank you aloha !!! where in Hawaii you live im from big island Kona side !!! shoots bratha
Thank you!!!
Thank you!! I feel a lot better when I’m trying to tell them I don’t believe I need rotators. I went to get just front breaks and they told me I need to replace all 4 breaks and rotors.they said they didn’t hear any noise on the test drive. I just don’t understand why they are trying to get me to pay $1000 when I know I don’t need all that. I have experience from my ex teaching me but unfortunately I don’t have the tools now to do it myself. They also said the calipers we broke, however I don’t know much about those.
there is an easier way to have a rough idea as to how your brake pads are. check your brake fluid level, unless you have a leak which could cause the brake fluid to drop quickly the fluid level will slowly go down due to the fact that as the brake pads wear brake fluid is displaced from the resivour to the brake caliper. If the level is low take time to get brakes checked. Also if you run in for oil changes and as a matter of service your levels are "topped up" remember that the mechanic when changing your pads will have to press back the piston into the caliper, again now moving that displaced fluid back to the resivour. If the fluid has been topped it may spill over due to increased amount . Brake fluid is bad for paint.
Friggin great video, man! I'm a newbie to this DIY car stuff and this info really helps. Thanks! Mahalo!
thank you!
Good channel
Hi Budget Mechanic, Would you advice for a brake fluid change vs a flush when copper leaves are beyond 300?
When I’m inspecting brakes for state inspection, I’ll check and pull all the brakes. If they have hot spots on either pads or rotors, I’ll highly recommend them, cracks fail, 2/32 fail, and if the rivet on the backing plate is below a certain amount, it also fails. With that being said, if the pads have even wear more than 2/32 from inside to outside pad, that fails for state inspection or highly recommend replacing. Hot spots or crazy glazing is highly recommended. If pad to rotor doesn’t have much contact, it’ll fail state and/or highly recommend if it’s not coming in for state inspection.
Amazing
I generally get 30-35k miles from a set of front brake pads, that’s doing mixed city & urban driving.
That’s great!
Makes me wonder if I was taken for a ride with Honda saying that my rear driver side caliper needed to be replaced. I wonder if they bothered to check something as simple as the slide pin. Needless to say, I just replaced both rear calipers. I wished I had an honest mechanic where I live.
My nieces car was making a noise when she went to turn into a driveway, I started pulling off the tires and checking the slide pins, they all needed grease but one was rusty and that was the noise culprit-been awhile since that pin did any sliding...
They suggest changing rotors between 30,000 and 70,000. I'm 61 and only ever replaced rotors when I upgraded to a big beef brake kit for my C.O.D. MW3 Rubicon JK. Maybe I'm ignorant, maybe I rarely drive older cars, maybe I don't drive in aggressive city environs. A local mechanic told my wife her '15 explorer needed new rotors and now she's all freaked out, saying her brakes are broken (she feels it, she says). The guy wants big cash for the job I don't have time to do... so I'm going to end up feeling it as well unless I find the time to replace the pads at least. (Mechanic #2 looked when asked to check the rotors. He said, yep... new rotors see the rust on the top edge! No measurement, now checking for warpage (no symptoms of issues either)... its that dirty rust!) Rule#1, never let your wife near a mechanic
Any person that buys FCA deserves trash
Thank You
Terrific and informative video. I wish, however, you had also touched upon the concern of the front brake pads on the Chrysler van wearing so unevenly.
Great video, I have never heard an explanation like this! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Just a suggestion, maybe you should’ve mentioned to look at the minimum wear, stamping on the rotor, and then show how to measure the rotor thickness with a pair of calipers maybe. Just so people know how to do that while they have the wheel off.
Thank you so much!!!!
Incredibly helpful video❤️