Still hanging with you on the assembly. That darn outer seal was giving me a hard time. So as you recommended, I just put the thing on but covered flat with a piece of cardboard and plywood with a little added weight to sit overnight. It was warm in the shop so it laid down pretty good. Then after the head was pulled down, the worry starts, hoping that the thing didn't roll over! That's the worst part of the rebuild. That and cleaning parts. The rest is fun. Thanks again for all the great instruction! It's been a tremendous help.
@@detroitgarage9430 My 4-53 is going in a Terex Loader to work at a gold mine. How would you recommend running it in for the first time after start? Run it on the stand, run it in the machine like it will be used, or take it easy on it? I've heard all the "best" ways to break one in, but value your advice above all. Thanks.
@@Shipfixer I follow the manufactures recommendations as well as a good Detroit overhaul shop. Start the engine and let idle no more than 10 minutes while you check the for leaks etc. Then work the engine hard as soon as you can. I run them hard for the first 100 hrs or so. For you in a loader just keep it working and don't idle for long periods. I basically shut them down if not working. Start them back up when work is to be done. Have done this the Detroit shop says just go out and work them hard and avoid idling.
@@detroitgarage9430 Excellent! I was hoping that would be the way. That confirms what I also believe is correct. Again, as always, great advice. It's a done deal. I have three more to rebuild. It will be interesting to see if any of them perform differently with such similar overhauls and breaking in. Thank you! I trust what you say when it comes to this.
Good morning, recently have our 353t shut down while operating. It wouldn't restart check and found oil in the exhaust ports and in the cover of blower and on the blower shafts. The engine oil level was high apparently we having a fuel leak in the oil sump as well. Do you have a suggestion as how we can clean some of the oil out the combustion chamber without pulling the engine
Pull the injectors out and rotate the engine to clear out any oil that has accumulated in the combustion chamber. This will prevent any rods bending if you have a lot of oil. You could try barring the engine over first to confirm it turns over. If it's free, then just repair the leaking fuel line/injector.:) Change the oil and you're good to go.:)
First off love your videos! I'm currently building a 42 ford with a 6v53. Just fired it up and everything was great until I rechecked the oil and had a ton of antifreeze in there. I only ran the engine for probably 5 minutes. It ran flawlessly. Do you think a bad head seal would cause this or a liner seal? Kinda stuck and looking for some input from an expert! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, most causes for this are either cracked head or bad liner seals. Could also be an oil cooler, any oil in the radiator? You can isolate by pulling the airbox covers and oil pan, then pressurize the coolant system. That should give you a better idea where it's coming from. Thanks for watching.:)
No oil in the coolant. I pulled the oil pan and pressurized the system. I had a steady drip from the back left cylinder. Still was hard to tell where it was coming from. It did drip without any pressure press as well. I pulled the head and the white coolant o rings were broke. Not sure if that happened from pulling the head or not. Ideas?
@@mylesfimbinger4781 Sounds like a liner seal.:) Coolant was coming from outside the liner correct? Did you check the airbox while pressurizing? Easy to replace and while the head is off check for cracks. I get them magnafluxed to confirm they are not cracked. The coolant seal probably tore when the head came off.
I decided to do an inframe based off of your videos. I was a little nervous but your step by step instructions are great. I did notice quite a bit of coolant where the cams are with the head off. Is this a way to diagnose the problem I am looking for? I still have not confirmed the problem yet. Thank you!
Would it be better if you had a small piece of metal to set on each corner of the perimeter gasket to hold it in place. I've seen some people put a small bead or RTV around the outside of the seal to help keep the oil in. Those head bolts will make you eat your Wheaties. Thanks!
I've seen all kinds of little tricks from match sticks to RTV.:) I find as long as the are put on dry, they wouldn't leak.:) Putting them on does take some patients, but they usually stay after a couple of attempts. They go on a lot easier if they are warm instead of cold.:) Very true those head bolts are not coming off.:) Happy New Year.:)
Great video. It's been about 10 years since I've done this and getting ready to do it now. I needed that refresher course!
Thanks and thanks for watching.:)
Great to get all your comments on the challenging gasket installation and details on cleanliness. Thanks and Happy new year!
Thanks, Happy New Year as well.:)
Still hanging with you on the assembly. That darn outer seal was giving me a hard time. So as you recommended, I just put the thing on but covered flat with a piece of cardboard and plywood with a little added weight to sit overnight. It was warm in the shop so it laid down pretty good. Then after the head was pulled down, the worry starts, hoping that the thing didn't roll over! That's the worst part of the rebuild. That and cleaning parts. The rest is fun. Thanks again for all the great instruction! It's been a tremendous help.
Awesome it works every time.:) I'm glad it helped, Happy New Year.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 My 4-53 is going in a Terex Loader to work at a gold mine. How would you recommend running it in for the first time after start? Run it on the stand, run it in the machine like it will be used, or take it easy on it? I've heard all the "best" ways to break one in, but value your advice above all. Thanks.
@@Shipfixer I follow the manufactures recommendations as well as a good Detroit overhaul shop. Start the engine and let idle no more than 10 minutes while you check the for leaks etc. Then work the engine hard as soon as you can. I run them hard for the first 100 hrs or so. For you in a loader just keep it working and don't idle for long periods. I basically shut them down if not working. Start them back up when work is to be done. Have done this the Detroit shop says just go out and work them hard and avoid idling.
@@detroitgarage9430 Excellent! I was hoping that would be the way. That confirms what I also believe is correct. Again, as always, great advice. It's a done deal. I have three more to rebuild. It will be interesting to see if any of them perform differently with such similar overhauls and breaking in. Thank you! I trust what you say when it comes to this.
Gracias por sus vídeos son De gran ayuda , saludos desde colombia
De nada e obrigado por assistir. :)
Hermano, me dirías por fa cuánto de torque lleva esa parte de la cabeza?
That perimeter seal... I used to cheat and put a bit of grease on it, made it stick in the groove a bit better.
It's a strange they designed it that way, but it works pretty nice. Happy New Year.:)
Good morning, recently have our 353t shut down while operating. It wouldn't restart check and found oil in the exhaust ports and in the cover of blower and on the blower shafts. The engine oil level was high apparently we having a fuel leak in the oil sump as well. Do you have a suggestion as how we can clean some of the oil out the combustion chamber without pulling the engine
Pull the injectors out and rotate the engine to clear out any oil that has accumulated in the combustion chamber. This will prevent any rods bending if you have a lot of oil. You could try barring the engine over first to confirm it turns over. If it's free, then just repair the leaking fuel line/injector.:) Change the oil and you're good to go.:)
First off love your videos! I'm currently building a 42 ford with a 6v53. Just fired it up and everything was great until I rechecked the oil and had a ton of antifreeze in there. I only ran the engine for probably 5 minutes. It ran flawlessly. Do you think a bad head seal would cause this or a liner seal? Kinda stuck and looking for some input from an expert! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, most causes for this are either cracked head or bad liner seals. Could also be an oil cooler, any oil in the radiator? You can isolate by pulling the airbox covers and oil pan, then pressurize the coolant system. That should give you a better idea where it's coming from. Thanks for watching.:)
No oil in the coolant. I pulled the oil pan and pressurized the system. I had a steady drip from the back left cylinder. Still was hard to tell where it was coming from. It did drip without any pressure press as well. I pulled the head and the white coolant o rings were broke. Not sure if that happened from pulling the head or not. Ideas?
@@mylesfimbinger4781 Sounds like a liner seal.:) Coolant was coming from outside the liner correct? Did you check the airbox while pressurizing? Easy to replace and while the head is off check for cracks. I get them magnafluxed to confirm they are not cracked. The coolant seal probably tore when the head came off.
Thank you
I decided to do an inframe based off of your videos. I was a little nervous but your step by step instructions are great. I did notice quite a bit of coolant where the cams are with the head off. Is this a way to diagnose the problem I am looking for? I still have not confirmed the problem yet. Thank you!
Would it be better if you had a small piece of metal to set on each corner of the perimeter gasket to hold it in place. I've seen some people put a small bead or RTV around the outside of the seal to help keep the oil in. Those head bolts will make you eat your Wheaties. Thanks!
I've seen all kinds of little tricks from match sticks to RTV.:) I find as long as the are put on dry, they wouldn't leak.:) Putting them on does take some patients, but they usually stay after a couple of attempts. They go on a lot easier if they are warm instead of cold.:) Very true those head bolts are not coming off.:) Happy New Year.:)
Mi motor no aguanta el minimo que puedo hacer
¿En qué está instalado tu 3-53?
Mano ud puso esos piñones pero no los mostro como ivan marcados como van piñon loco y el del sigueñal saludos desde colombia
Tal vez este video cubra esa instalación. :) Gracias por mirar. :) czcams.com/video/Z6sgAYy3avQ/video.html
Is there no o-rings needed on the balancer side oil galleries? I'm about to install the head on my 2-53
No, only on the cam side. Double check the manual, but I believe there's only one oil feed on the cam side on the 2-53.
Your correct. Seal kit only came with one oil seal. Got the head installed yesterday. Your videos have been a huge help! thanks
@@TheIslandboy11 You're welcome, I'm glad they helped.:)