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also de props i would like to change them :)

Yes it does, great little drone!

It's because it's indoor and low light, outside on a sunny day it does get jello.

Thanks man, the titanium screws were a must to get it sub 250gr, with an 850 lipo :)

got them from here : titaniumraceparts.nl/product-category/bout/m3/ if you don't live in europe, maybe it's better to source them locally, I even think you can get them on ali.

I saw Mr ShutterBug use dental floss, been using it ever since, it's weighs next to nothing, and is incredibly strong, didn't know these techniques were also used in more serious environments, thanks man!

Bit late but happy birthday 🎂 🥳! That's an awesome present, enjoy buddy. And thanks man 😃

First of all, thank you very much 🙂. I've never tested it on anything bigger then whoops. Are they ducted cinewhoops, because that will have a influence on performance when flipping motors upside down. Chris Rosser actually briefly mentioned the benefits of inverted drones in one his early video's but I can't find the part anymore, it's like a 30 second part of a 20 minute video 😅. I think the best thing for me about inverted whoops is the weight distribution, putting the battery on top makes it feel different in the air, less pendulum effect. Too bad I don't much time for YT anymore, would love to do this one again, but A little bit better, like taking the pidloop out of the equation ( big mistake in that vid 🙄 sorry) Edit: haha net gezien dat je een Nederlander bent, groetjes uit Belgie :p

@@SquareOneFPV Engels is nog steeds de beste voertaal als we het over dit soort lastige zaken hebben. 😄Zoveel variablelen ook. 🤯 Ik ga dit experiment zeker nog een keer opzetten want de manier waarop mijn lichtste unit vloog was heel bijzonder. Groet uit NE ✌

@@petereuvideodrones Volledig akkoord, Engels praat veel vlotter als het over drone, of nerd stuff in het algemeen gaat😜. Ben benieuwd wat jou bevindingen gaan zijn, mag je mij altijd wel laten weten.

I was planning on removing them too. I'm not a big fan of leds on drones either, but I eventually kept them because they do act as race wire, so in a crash if the prop hit the top of the arm no wires can be damaged, and there wasn't much of a weight difference between the leds or using actual wires.

yeah you could do that, replaced mine with betafpv 1103 8000kv ( mostly fly with a throttle limit not to blow up an esc :). I went the lighter route because this is a very small and light build 3 inch. The frame is very thin and so are the arms, the more weight you add the bigger the impact energy, and I'm afraid you will be replacing arms a lot... you'll have to drill the motors holes in the frame and led strip ( it runs to the end of the arm and is sandwiched between the motor and the arm). Holes are 1.5mm 🙄🙄 for the stock motors. I've just cut of the piece of led strip that's underneath the motor, and afterwards taped it to the arm so it stays in place. Yes 3s no problem 😅👍

@@SquareOneFPV i was 98g 2s 550 8700kv. Give 27 amp 2.5 inch at 64k rpm. So 3s 6000kv 66k rpm. Should be around 30 amp. I will lose efficiency at hover (38g 4 motor when 1104 are. 22g for 4. ) But will gain efficiency on power demand due to larger bell so more tork available

@@SquareOneFPV later gonna swap frame of the ape it it prove to be too fragile to go for 130mm 3mm carbon

@@sunoncream1118 Ok I went the other way, shaved about 10gr of if I remember correctly, swapped the vtx for a tbs pro 32 nano, camera for a cadx ant or lite(not sure), and motors for 1104's limited to 6000kv, still fly it on 3s 300mah.

@@sunoncream1118 yes it's thin!

Hi man, thanks for sharing. Didn't know about rotating the ducts, going to try that!

Awesome, thanks man! 👊🏼👍

Hi, sorry to hear that, that's the first I here of problems with this charger. I can't really help you with this. I tried looking for how to firmware reset one of these online, but there's not much to be found... And it kinda sounds like a hardware problem. Best to try and contact ISDT or the store you bought it from. Hope you can get it fixed, replaced or refunded buddy, sorry I can't help you better, goodluck.

Hi, no it isn't, antenna glue can take the heat a vtx produces.

hi, it's holding up great. I've been flying a naked vista for almost 2 years now in my sub 250 3 inch. It's been though many MANY crashes ( I think I'm on the 3rd frame now :) and the vista is still working perfect. Maybe I've just been lucky...

This guy gets it! 😆👍👊🏼

Thats great, you're welcome 👍👊🏼

Sounds like my first soldering experience 😆, it's ok you'll get better at it. I believe first few sounds are for the fc starting the last ones are esc's starting... so yes esc's are probably fried, due too overheating, soldering on such small pads has to be fast, because the heat transfers to nearby components very very fast. On tinywhoops I put my soldering iron on 300 to 340°C and I try not to touch the pad longer then 2 seconds. -Pre tin both the pad and wire -Give the board a second after pre tinning -Hold the wire onto the pad -use flux if you have it -hold the wire onto the pad -clean iron tip and put a tiny bit of solder on it -now solder! The wire should be soldered onto the pad almost instantly. -when done soldering, clean the board with isopropyl alcohol and tootbrush to make sure there no small solder residue that could cause issues.

@@SquareOneFPV wow, super helpful! Thanks for the tips! Definitely need to focus on being quick with the heat

Thanks, appreciate it!

I guess you could, but wouldn't recommend it, that's really a LOTT of weight your going to put on top of it. I've flown it with 3s 650mah and it was fine, motors not even running hot. It's definitely not going to be agile anymore are you planning on using it for long range? And this drone has an xt 30 connector, that battery will probably have an xt 60, so soldering will be required if that's the case.

Hi, that's not right indeed, it should be the opposite. I'll try and help you out. 1) did you direct solder the motors? I know it's a pain, but if you did direct solder the motors, first thing I'd would suggest is too redo them... unless you are absolutely sure you're solder joints are perfect. 2) Did you change anything in the set up, except for remapping motors and 'flipping' the gyro? 3) Motors are spinning freely? Maybe a motor bell slipped off? The happymodel ex 0802 motors have this problem very often. 4) Did you change the props from you're original set up while doing this mod?

@@SquareOneFPV hi, thank for the answer, the motors are soldered and they work perfectly, and everything is the same, I checked everything I could but I'm not able to find a solution... : (

@@carlochannel5027 Hi Carlo, I've been thinking about your issue but I keep coming back to solder joints or a motor problem. I know, not very helpful 😔, sorry. I hope you get it solved, good luck with it.

@@SquareOneFPV thanks, for now I’m flying it normal. It’s an 18g 65mm and it flys amazing anyway 🤗

I think 3s 300mah is a good balance between flighttime and weight. I get about 3 to 3min30 on those. However I've flown it with 3s 650mah and I definitely enjoyed the extra weight when doing freestyle, it instantly gives you more hangtime, but sharp cornering gets much more difficult...

Thanks man!