How to fit ND filter on Mobula 6HD / Runcam split 3 lite 1 | Jello test | Square One
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- Will an ND filter get rid of jello on the Mobula 6 hd, or Split 3 Lite camera?
Let's find out! I will also show you how you can mount them, and what camera setting you should use with ND filters.
Get the ND filters here ( I use the 14mm, I think you could fit 15mm as well, but with more padding on the lens ):
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awesome video that ND 16 helped a lot i think I will need to look into getting one
Yes it did help, but stopping vibrations getting to camera would be even better, I'm testing some stuff out right now 🤘
The best of the best video!
And this is the best comment 😀. Thanks man!
Brilliant video as always!
Thanks mate 😃👊🏼
cant understand the science how ndfilter improves jello but I'm glad it improved yours. I thought nd are for light polarization only. Btw, my caddx loris 4k is much better than the split 3 based on your videos.
Can't tell you the exact science, but I suspect jello is actually the camera picking up vibrations from the props and motors. As long as my motors aren't spinning there's no jello, not even in bright sunlight and without a filter. And these vibrations are less noticeable indoors where there's less sunlight. An ND filter will allow you to lower the shutterspeed, which will let less light reach the lens, and so making jello less pronounced. It's still there though. Actually the way the camera is mounted is far more important, but there are limited options with this kind of drone. And yes the loris is a better camera, but this is the lightest hd recording camera, and I hoped I could make it work.
@@SquareOneFPV low shutterspeed coz of nd filter might be it. have you tried it in a different whoop? maybe 11xx motor on 2s whoop will make the split3 no jello. or you may need to now adjust PIDS and tune your filters, maybe.
@@jeffclassics I flown the stock Mobula 6 HD, it had the same amount of jello. But this whoop flies very smooth, I don't think i can make it much smoother just by tuning pid and filters. Maybe some one with better tuning skills could, but not me 😂. I'm going to keep tinkering with it for now, I do like a challenge 😁. Thanks for your suggestions buddy!
ND filters don't polarize, they are like regular sunglasses. Polarizer filters do, also called circular NDs. I don't know either exactly the physics behind why NDs help with jello, also called rolling shutter. The reason why it happens is because the sensor scans the sensor from top to bottom too slowly, but I don't understand why fpv cameras are so prone to it and why a slower rolling shutter helps.
Take a close look at your motors and props my friend. Likely the cause of your excessive jello. Examine your motor shafts carefully, it can often be difficult to tell if one is slightly bent. Good luck.
Thanks for the advice! Already swapped out the happymodel motors for betafpv's, they weigh a bit more but have a better bearing. Trying a few other things too, other props, carbon brace to stiffen up the frame, tightening and loosening screws, different canopy. Planning on making a follow up vid, but just been to busy with work 🙄, and we're having a really crappy summer... so haven't had the chance to whoop outdoors much 🙁.
The ND filter is a hack, causes the shutter speed to slow down. The jello is caused by the tune.
Get Bi-D setup and work on the filtering, then sort out the tune and you won't have any jello.
Totally agree. But, these are new motors, new props, and a good tune ( I'm not an expert tuner tho). These TW motors and especially Happymodel motors are very badly balanced, and the shaft just runs on a bushing instead of a ball bearing, so they cause a ton of vibrations. I could try balancing the motor bells myself, but the lack of a decent bearing will always be the limiting factor in how smooth they can be.
So I threw on some ND filters and hoped for the best 😅. Currently working on getting rid off as many vibrations coming from the motors as possible, I hope I can get a decent picture quality out of it. Thanks for the input buddy!
If your motors wear out fast try oiling them with Triflow
I do oil them, with a full synthetic oil. But I'll check out triflow, thanks 👍
Great video . Any videos coming on leveling and or correcting drifting in tinywhoops ?
Thank you 😋, now that's an interesting topic. And very complicated, drifting can have many causes, starting with the calibration of you controller, your trims, props, motors, and pid tuning. So yeah I'll consider it, but I don't know if I qualify to actually make that video 🤔. If you are sure you're controller is calibrated, and your trims are correct, you've set your end points etc, your props and motors are fine, I suggest trying higher I gain. Check this video from Marks Spatz, who's an expert on the matter czcams.com/video/Sq_DFjmvVDE/video.html&ab_channel=UAVTech
Love the jams man!!! Do I think the jello is result of the camera being too sensitive with light or vibrations in the quad? I have this same issue
too tight canopy screws can cause jello.
I solved it that way
Yes I tried loosening, tightening didn't work for me. But glad to hear you got yours jello free 👍, thanks for the tip buddy!
@@SquareOneFPV softer mounts, like under naked gopro?:)
Yes that could definitely help, only problem is finding the right amount of softness... I'm trying different motor and prop combinations at the moment. I first want to get rid of as much mechanical vibrations as possible. Then I'm going to try and filter the remaining vibrations with camera soft mounting.
Try moblite 7 carbon brace, might help.
Alright thanks! Didn't even know those existed 😅. Do you have a link to were I can find these?
@@SquareOneFPV not sure why cant post link here. But you can look up in banggood. 1g Uruav for moblite7.
@@hojiqabait Found it 🤘😋. Stiffening up the frame can definitely help, going to check it out! Thanks man!
@@SquareOneFPV indoor is fine imo. But outdoor you just cant keep the throttle low 😆. It might help a little on motor-wind vibe. Surely better. You can look up the newbeedrone cockroach 75mm kit too, comes with the brace. Or if you insist with 65mm, can get the uruav tb65, a 2g+ toothpick frame. I just ordered it, will cut the whoops from 65x for its prop guards. 🙊
thanks for sharing! at the end, were you able to fix jellos by motor balancing as other commented suggested?
Hi there 🙂, well I talked to guys that did it and it does work, but the bearings are so bad it goes back out off balance after just a few hours of flying. I switched the happymodel motors out ( they were brand new btw) for betafpv's, 0802se, they're a bit heavier, but have a better bearing. I really want to get the follow up video done, but my day job got me working overtime and this summer was very wet and windy, so havent't been doing much whooping outside.
David hi
Could you help me I have qx95 binded to jumper t lite I also have an old clean flight version connects ok my channels all over the place I have only flown toy grade this my 1st proper drone if you could help id approximate it receiver is dms2 thank you if you have no time no worries.
It’s Nice
Thank you, nice comment! ✌
Sounds like you motors have issues or the flight software is causing oscillations. Usually jello is caused by vibration. Props or motors having balance issues. I had it where the motor shaft was bent just a tiny amount and the wobble caused jello. Had it on a fixed wing and a quad. The filters are just masking it out the only way to fix it is to smooth out the hardware. IMHO I can hear oscillations when you took off
Thank you Bob, that's what I was thinking too. But, this used to a stock Mobula 6 HD, and straight out of the box, same jello problem. I have a review about it, check the flight footage if you want to czcams.com/video/_OoHvGJmVBU/video.html
This one is a new build, with new motors and new props. And when I hear the whoop fly, it's sound really clean, only when recorded it sounds like there's vibration coming from the motors. Going to try Betafpv motors, they have a better bearing than these Happymodel motors, and try a few different sets of props. I'm hoping I can find the source of vibrations, without the jello this is a pretty decent camera.
@@SquareOneFPV There are tons of videos on balancing brushless motors. Use the gyros and beta flight configurator . one motor at a time just a piece of tape will make a difference at these speeds.
Ok thanks, good suggestion, I've never balanced a motor before, but I give it a go 👍. Thanks man!
what kind of Rx do you have on there is it the SPI one that mobula comes with?
Frysky XM
Besides the constant jello, it's a shame that the filters introduce a weird color shift and vignetting.
Yeah I agree, they help somewhat, but wreck the colors. Last Sunday it was sunny, and I did some testing, I found something that helps with the jello. It's not completely gone but much much better now. Will try a video about it soon.
@@SquareOneFPV waiting eagerly!
@@RoyceWilliamscustomurl It's coming 😋, it's been hard finding time in between work and all. And it's been even harder to have a sunny day, that's not too windy for a whoop 😒...
are you using mobula 7 Frame ?
Yes it's the Mobula 7 V2, but I can't recommend it. It is one of the lightest frame in it's size, but it breaks very very easily. I find the Mobula 7 V4 way better!
great, where is the link for buying nd filter mobula 6hd ?
It's in the description, but here you go 👍😉
I use the 14mm, I think you could fit 15mm as well, but with more padding on the lens:
14mm: nl.aliexpress.com/i/4000171431913.html
15mm: www.banggood.com/custlink/GDDYeDN3T7
@@SquareOneFPV nice info, is it 14mm means you use ND8 or ND16 ?
@@taufikalhas2536 14mm refers to the size off the nd filters itself. ND 8 and 16 are the levels of how "dark" the ND filter is. ND 8 for cloudy and not so bright days, ND16 for bright sunny days. Think of them as sunglasses 😎
14mm to 15mm is the width, so for a medium or large head. (Doesn't matter because we use padding)
And de "ND" stands for how dark the sunglasses are, the higher the number the more they block out the sun.
@@SquareOneFPV okee noted, thankyou for your explans dude, all is clear 😎🙏🏻
which is best split 3 nano or lite?
If you care about weight go for the lite it's 7.8gr and has decent HD quality. It's the one I use and indoors it's excellent, check this vid czcams.com/video/rntx0Dytooc/video.html.
The Nano weighs 10.2gr, but has a glass lens, so it doesn't scratch as easily as the plastic lens on the lite. Picture quality is a bit better, JB has got a great vid on this cam czcams.com/video/86ycOliwqHY/video.html
What is that statue thing?
Thanks for the good tip! I do follow Chris Rosser, wonder if damping grease would actually work with these small motors, and a plastic frame 🤔. Going to try some other options first, but I've added it to my list 👍😃. As for the statue, I have no idea, and I tried looking it up but didn't find anything. The place I was flying is the parking lot of a cremation center, I'd suspect it has something to do with dead, grieving, hope, or something like that. TBH I think it looks like something from a sci-fi horror movie 😂. Yes I'm not great with art 😅😂.
@@SquareOneFPV not sure on the compatibility with plastic TBH.. guess I'm usually dealing with carbon. Other things to check are your motors. Do they wiggle? You probably know all this though... Freaking jello. LMAO we all chase it
@@ChadKovac Oh yes they wiggle, they're happymodel motors 😂, trying out betafpv's at the moment, at least they have a decent bearing. But I got a lot of good suggestions, so I got a lot of testing to do!