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@@benjimenez7702 no problem at all. I'm in New Zealand, however my sister lives in Denver CO. Stunning place, hope to visit again. I only have a experience with the switchcraft 5 way switch. I'd need to look at any schem to evaluate. Hope you can get your head around it. Cheers

Very few, if any, strats were factory issued with middle pickup reverse wound/reverse polarity (RW/RP) however a few notable guitarists did play extensively with RW/RP, Mark Knophler, SRV, Hendrix come to mind. With RW/RP the signal would be out-of-phase in positions 2 and 4, providing that honky, quaky Dire Straights tone in some songs. The majority of sets however, would have all three pickups wired in-phase, presenting a regular, slightly additive, noise cancelling combined pickup tone in positions 2 and 4. You can also do reverse wound without reversing polarity and that adds a certain flavour also.

No probs. You only have to wind the middle pickup in opposite direction (normally reverse wound/reverse polarity) if you want an out-of-phase sound when selecting both top and middle combined. If out-of-phase is not your thing, then you just wind the middle pickup the same as the others.

The coils of the humbucker are both mounted and wound exactly the same. That is, they are wound the exact same direction. This seems contridictory, however In order to achieve hum cancelling, the ends to the outside of each coil are connected. This leaves two wires that come from the inside of each coil. One is hot and one is earth. This provides the reverse wound geometry of a humbucker. Cheers.

Whoops, you HAVE done more! Now to have a look at that . . .

Your most welcome, glad you enjoyed it. I have a 6V6 jcm800 build with free plans coming soon, but alas, due to my over the top OCD, it's taken me about 18 months to do this project. But nearly finished. Cheers

Glad I could help 😂

What influence would the chassis have on the large magnetic field of the filament winding (AC)?

⁠@@elams1894it would create more hum if the heater circuit touches the chassis (although your build is near perfect, so it might not affect it anyway.) I realized that this might be more valid to high gain amps. So pardon my intrusion. I'd be happy if I could build half a beautiful design. 🙂

@@Nofarewell No probs on the question as magnetic fields are of high interest to me. You are certainly not alone in reasoning for physically elevated filament cables. My father built every one of his amps that way. The main reason I don't have filaments coming from above is that, imo, there is more chance of hum induction from the filaments to the sensitive parts of the socket with elevated filaments. I find routing filaments toward the edge of the socket, on the chassis suits my design better. Would be keen to hear of your observations or experience of chassis routing filaments however, as it's all relevant indeed. Thanks for kind words, and good question.

@@elams1894 Absolutely. I have limited experience in diy tube guitar amps, I am planning one high gain amp build now. The previous one had this bad kind of hum and the heater circuit was definitely touched the chassis, while the tube preamp/poweramp circuit were elevated. Although this issue alone wasn't the main culprit 🙂 I have been advised about this in a forum somewhere and it stuck; it might not only be the chassis that interferes, but the anode/cathode/grid cables. You can find this design in older Fender models too where the pre/power amp cables touch the chassis, while the heater circuit is elevated. Sorry if I don't use the adequate words, English is not my first language. Otherwise you might cannot imagine how helpful this series of yours. Invaluable info on how to solve circuitry issues. 🤲 Thought I'd bring this topic to light here, if it contributes to anything positive, then it wasn't for nothing.

@@Nofarewell Thanks for info, it all helps, very interesting. I asked my dad yesterday (hes 85 now, he worked as a chief sound engineer for TV New Zealand) why he elevated his filament cables above the sockets. He said that many of the large tube amps they imported from England at the time (1950's) had major ground loop issues and as a result the currents of which manifested in the chassis and effected the filament windings, ultimately ending up in the signal circuit. Elevating the filaments was an easier fix than correcting the earthing of the amp. He said that ideally of course you dont want any earthing issues at all. Ground loops should be avoided at all cost. He got so used to elevating filaments in tube amps, he ended up just building that way. So ground loop issues are definitely something to try to avoid. In my experience, grounding the tone stack, phase inverter, and the rest of the power amp near the mains socket, with preamp grounded at the signal input jack, works well to avoid ground issues in larger push pull amps. The tonestack may well be grounded at either position but you have to find which is best. However for me, two earth points only should exist in a tube amp. Alas, everything in tube amp building is a compromise as every little thing effects every other little thing. Thats the fun I guess. All the best with your builds, thanks for input.

Glad it was of interest, cheers

The first tube socket is for the EL84 power tube which has different filament pins to the 12AX7. Pins 4 and 5 of the 12AX7 are common, and require a small connector cable to join them together. I believe that might be shown in the next vid? Good question though, I see how that could be confusing, cheers.

The screws hold the turrets together while soldering. They can be removed, or left in for strength. I now use 2.5mm brass machines bolts for the tall turret posts. It's cheaper and more practical. However, both work well. The added mass of the bolt and extra turret does not appear to affect inductance.

Thank you Frank, you are most welcome!

Hi Tony. Yes, I have built a 6V6 Version of the JCM800 with the choice of 2 different FX Loops that actually work. In addition, the FX loops are NOT LN150 FET driven, rather they are opamp driven. The loops are parallel type, o e of which achieves parity and beyond. Video and free plans to the 800 coming maybe June. Cheers.

Yes turrets do introduce their own electrical properties, mass being the main one, meaning more opportunity for unwanted induction. I now use solid brass machine bolts where double turrets would normally be. Less mass, solder, less complications. Every component, whether that be resistors, turrets , cable, every little thing in the amp affects the system in some way. The less complicated the better. Everything is a compromise. Simplify one thing, creates complications elsewhere. I'm not opposed to PCB at all, in fact PCB's are ideal for things like FX loops, or anything revolving around pedals, as after all, they are solid state devices themselves. That been said, I do prefer turret point to point for tube amps. The high voltages render PCB a tad unreliable. You have to find your own peace of mind in amp design, anything is possible and everything you have said makes sense. You obviously give it some critical thought and thats what its all about. The more you can think about the electrical system, the better you are placed in ending up with a noise free amp. Thanks for the input and all the best for your builds.

Hi Steven, I use a Stanley No.139 3/4inch bit for swaging. Thanks.

Cheers, glad you enjoyed it!

Yes, PRP. I like them, not because they are red, but because they are RED.