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They don't chew through copper because it's toxic.

Yes

Yes

Sounds like a restriction, something to do with the thermostat, maybe it's backwards or some other restriction. Sounds like an airlock was created and that explains why the coolant went down but none of it came out of the bleeder screw (if i pictured your explanation correctly). - Ensure your gaskets and hose connections are solid. Definitely don't drive it until you get this figured out so you don't ruin the engine from overheating. (246° is way too high)

I ended up switching to a stainless mesh.

When you release the air, should the engine be on or off when releasing the extra air? And should I cycle the engine before releasing air or no?

Yes. I just looked it up and apparently they are both the same. Thanks for the question.

Thanks for sharing and that's great to hear you got it back up and running!

Thanks for the info.

Well that was 6 years ago so who knows. I didn't go back and listen but I might of said $50. Here's one for around $50 - amzn.to/3KHScAj

You might need to buy some hook tools to make it easier.

Thank you for the comment.

That sounds like too long but if you find a good mechanic that only charges $110 for a thermostat install then it's a deal. I suggest you buy the thermostat and bring it to them also.

@@mrficks1838 yes I bought a thermostat recently and one mechanic said $110 another $210 and since the latter charges like $140 per hr it sounds like they expect it to be a 1 n a half hr job also.

I think the $110 is reasonable considering the convenience.

@@mrficks1838 Yeah I had it worked on for the $110 today. I wanted to work on it myself but I couldn't stand the smell of some nearby dead animal plus its hot where Im at. It did take an hr n a half technically but most of that time was just letting the car sit to cool off, using an air blower to dry the spilled coolant of the belts and other stuff, and draining coolant. He did take his sweet time to air dry the coolant though because it was sitting on the belt for at least 25 minutes. He insisted that time the belts were wet didn't corrode or damage them. If not for that dead animal smell I would've done it.

I make sure to wash off any belts with water if they get coolant on them but other than that good to hear it's completed. Might wanna check your coolant temp for a bit to ensure no air is trapped in the system.

It's annoying for sure. Thanks for watching!

Yes, the pump is connected to the reservoir that's shown in this video.

One fuse per control board on each unit.

@@mrficks1838 Thanks for the quick turnaround, appreciate it. So I changed the fuse and that did not fix the issue. The fan blades outside the house still are not moving and the thermostat temp is not changing on this second story. Would you say the next logical step is to open the cover of the control board and see whether some lights indicate an error code ? Not sure if I am on the right path especially when you mentioned during start of your video to cut off the power and if I cut the power then how would I see the error codes? I assume I should take off the control board cover and then watch for blinking light? Or may watch the 1 inch circle light that shows even when cover is ON ? I have a gut feeling that it could be the capacitor that may have gone bad which is located in the fan box outside the house. What do you suggest ?

You could see if the furnace is giving a code yes (through the sight.. You dont bed to remove the cover) but sounds like the outdoor unit is the issue.. Could be the fan itself or the capacitor as you said. If that outdoor unit has a control board see if it's giving a code as well.

My suggestion to turn off the power was only when doing modifications, such as changing the fuse, to avoid damaging the unit and shocking oneself.

This is just a rough estimate but it's about 33.75" to the mark.

But please only use that for when you should expect to feel it hit... It's millimeters differences for the correct reading so keep that in mind.

These are good and Made in the USA. They'll come in handy many times. amzn.to/41144CC

Thanks for the nice comment.

If so then that's a big problem. I don't recommend you drive it until you put a cap on it.

@@mrficks1838 at 1:51 in the video that whole piece I don’t have is what I meant the whole entrance for the transmission fluid is not there could it be somewhere else? Thanks I’m advance I’m having a hard time ‘12 3.6 charger

If the tube is also not there then you have the 8HP45 transmission and it's a different process which all is done under the car at the transmission pan. Here's a video that shows it: czcams.com/video/XObN94hkQ-Q/video.html If you have the tube but no cap then you'll just need a new cap so moisture doesn't get in and damage the transmission.

I ended up having to cut the bolt off of the old outer tie rod. The top of the tie rod, where the 10mm socket goes, was completely stripped and even slipped in the visegrips. I'm thankful for I had a sawzall...lol

Excellent work! Thanks for sharing and your kind comment!

Never done it but looks like to completely remove it you have to remove the dash fasteners on that side to get access behind it. (If that won't work without damaging it you'll have to remove that whole top dash piece. Here's a starting idea on it: drive.google.com/file/d/12WP4S6QWOJOZCQ5TNR5qKScqTlA-ieql/view?usp=drivesdk You'll need plastic trim tools like these too: amzn.to/3nkBnT1

So your transmission is the 845RE aka the 8 speed. I commented about a year ago on this video for info on that. I pinned it to the top to make it easy for you to find. There's a 845RE PDF linked in that comment.. Try page 18 for how to check your fluid level.

Actually I'll make it easier ha. Here's the guide - drive.google.com/file/d/1dnJOMjNig47HGznoyCratGbYsECCPaaB/view?usp=sharing

Sounds like a screw is still holding the right side of the 'leg' to the framing. If not and it's just wedged maybe try some silicone spray lubricant and or tapping the railing that holds it with a light mallet.

Glad it helped you. Thanks for the nice comment.

Glad to know it helped y'all. Thank you for the kind comment.

It did but overtime one was either bit through or degraded so it's best to use steel or something stronger than the copper I used in the video.

Dr. Pepper said it was ok so I went with it.

Sounds like it's close to fully purged if not already.

@@mrficks1838 I played with it again opened up the bleeder screw again and it’s still coming out pure coolant. Ran it with the cap off and heat on for a little while. If it’s not fully purged will it eventually work itself out? Just a little concerned why its running hotter, guess it could just be the thermostat itself.

If it's running hotter my guess is there is still air but not much. 215° is not too high. Also there may be slight variations depending on the thermostats manufacturing.

It will slowly purge yes but go ahead and crack the cap after you park to let it out until you see a temperature you feel good with. It might take a few times of that over some days. If it doesn't move then my guess is the coolant mix and or the new thermostat and I wouldn't worry about it.

@@mrficks1838 thank you I appreciate your input!

That's very kind, thank you!

If it doesn't show up on this list then just Google 'Whirlpool Error Code list' - www.searspartsdirect.com/range-repair/error-codes/whirlpool-range-error-codes.html

You might need some good walking shoes if your car is missing the transmission. But I assume you meant there's no dipstick in the engine bay. The ZF 8HP transmission has it on the underbody... This will show you the process.. Have fun - czcams.com/video/BPkCUfqi-gE/video.html

Pull out off the cabinet towards you some and then lift.. If it won't pull off then it is still screwed in somewhere or someone used an adhesive in which case you can pry with a thin flat but hard plastic piece (pry bar).

Sounds like you need to replace the keypad which isn't available anymore. Sorry.