Video

Why does every Damascus beginner video have a damn power hammer

Hi are you still teaching locally?

i have no power hammer,how can it works for me?

I bought one kitchen chef knife for around 50 euros and it had nice symbols on it, but damn a knife 50 euros thats crazy... 3d printing should make it cheaper to make those knifes though, specially in the future..

Five years old, but I have a question please (if you're still active). Do you just test this on the very edge? Is that because that area will be removed during sharpening anyway?

Thanks for this helpfull and detailed tutorial. I crack a can for you, cheers from Germany

Great video. I plan on using 01 steel for all of my knives. I think thats how i found your video. Very helpful for me thank you

Nice 👍

Great work

Thats strange, I didn't know Sam worked on horses hooves 🤔 and was an author 🤔🤔 and has been to six countries 🤔🤔🤔 and that his name is SIMON instead of SAM 🤔🤔🧐🧐

Love the recycling idea. Good work

Nice work Dave

Are you around Victoria? Do you do custom made sword? How much for one but I do it in your shop but I pay full price.

What are you add that whit powder please replay ????

Are there gator belts for the 1 by 30?

Would love to give you a " Thumbs-Up " sadly your Audio tecording fell short..however keep up the good tutorial work..!!

Rockwell c indicates the shape of diamond used. C being a rounded one.

Grate build

Thanks Dave, just found your channel and subbed!

Could you heat treat 5160 in a charcoal forge like 1084, say minimal soak time and let it go just past non magnetic, quench in canola oil afterwards. I have used 1084 with success for blades and tools, but would like to use a tough big chopper type steel for large blades, but backyard heat treat set up.

truck springs are usually 5160, which is a very good steel for beginners..You can of course get new 5160 from spring makers.. heat treat temps are not real critical. Non-magnetic is hot enough, although 825 or 835 might be better. you *can* use a MAPP torch shooting into a small firebrick enclosure for a forge but you'll go broke buying those 400-gram bottles.far better to build a real forge.

Very nice training.

What is oil name ???

Thank you for sharing this. It's still impressive what you can do with a MAP gas torch. 👍

I've always used my homemade propane forge to heat treat never tried to use a map torch until today. Well last night, I was using unknown steel so I tested a piece and it hardened great, but when I went to heat treat the blade I couldn't get a uniform heat. I ended up doing it in two parts. Bottom half closest to the tang then top half. It hardened enough to slice my finger open and then cut paper after I ground the forge scale off on the belt but I wasn't satisfied with it so I annealed it and I'm just gonna wait til I can get my propane tank refilled. Money's tight these days is the only reason I even tried with the map torch. I just happened to have a tank sitting around unused. Not sure why I couldn't get a good uniform heat, the blades only about 5-6" inches long. Idk 🤷🏼‍♂️

Beautiful mate.👍

How about talking

So you test the forge weld by hitting it diagonally, but you've tack welded the pieces together. How would you know, just caught my attention.

All those old tools, love it

Most beginners have a hydraulic hammer. Lol

Thanks for sharing. I am learning to make a Damascus knife and need to know what needed to join the metal

Thanks for the advice. Just starting out and I've been looking for a while for a good steel to start with. A lot of people get to in depth with all the different kinds of steel. Ima go with 1085 thanks to the advice!

hey mate, thanks for the video, but what type of gas does the burner require as i may purchase one for myself?

Hi...i try to make my first damascus but does not become

Does sup9 holds an edge like 5160?

Hey mate, do you still make deba knives? Could you make one using a dyed maple burl?

Banyak bacot anying..

So you are quenching as soon as you hit non-magnetic? You're not going slightly past non-magnetic?

Q: "The best steel for knife making?" A: "That steel that you can't find anywhere."

I’m new to this and just starting out. Made a few single metal blades and I want to try Damascus. Is it a bad idea to only use a few layers, like 3-6?

Bruda..😗😘

DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU SAID OR HOW TO DO WHAT U ARE DOING...............

Would the same process apply if using a coal forge or would I need to get a gas forge?

Where can I buy a torch like your?

How bout the sup9 steel is that exact 5160, is sup9 a good steel?

Nice video, I just started working with 01 this year, I got some practice in soaking for around 8+ mins using 1095, but I have to do it by hand and eye control, as my forge isn't temp controlled, that's the tricky part, soaking by eye took me about 2 years to get down without over heating it. I had to make a very specific open back forge, which lets a lot of the heat out, so it doesn't get too hot in there.

Thank you I really enjoyed the Video I'm just starting with my first Knife, making it from an old Farriers Rasp. Cheers

What is the resin you used to glue the Handle can it be got from Bunnings if not where can I get it I'm on the Mid Nth Coast NSW

Oh my goodness! I'm an engineer and heat treater. I make knives too. As far as O1 heat treat is concerned you do not hold it at hardening temp for 30 minutes nor 5 minutes. If you buy spheroid O1 with 0.10 to 0.20% vanadium like I do there is no need for for grain refinement with this steel, it is not 1080. I started heat treating O1 in a charcoal forge in 1992 and then I bought a nice Paragon oven and made perfectly heat treated knives thanks to Kevin Cashen. Firstly O1 doesn't decarburize nearly as much as 1080-75 or L6 or simple alloys. If you're going to forge it that's a different story. But it isn't necessary to do three cycles if you just buy the O1 with Vanadium and stay away from Latrobe's formulation. Some folks are under the impression that that small amount of vanadium would make vanadium carbides. Not at all, it restricts grain growth quite a bit. It is why I'd buy 80CrV2 instead of plain 1080. If you want the edge holding of a high vanadium steel and only have a forge there is a steel for you called CruForgeV that is essentially 80CrV2, but with 0.75% vanadium. Oh and FYI, vanadium carbides are harder than tungsten carbides. Alpha Knife Supply sells it in .250 thick flat bar. Do not forge below 980c to 1065c and normalize at 870 C and slow cool to room temp. To anneal heat to 760 C and slow cool at no more than 22c per hour until after it drops below 640c then it isn't as critical on the temp drop, but nothing quick, just a slow air cool after it hits 1000 F. This is Bohler's formulation. Latrobe doesn't have the vanadium. O1's analysis. Carbon, 0.95 Chromium, 0.55% Manganese, 1.10% this is very, very high for a knife steel, but has its uses. Silicon, 0.30% Tungsten, 0.55% Vanadium, 0.20% To austenitize with an oven, heat to 1200 (650c) and equalize then ramp up to O1's sweet spot at 1475 (801c) for 15-25 minutes (according to thickness) then quench in 120 to 130F oil, Canola oil or peanut oil both work, but they break down after a while. Within two to three minutes after quench if there is any warp have a vise and heavy pliers handy to straighten, but after four minutes it loses its flexibility and you must straighten during temper. This is that high manganese content, O1 is the only steel I know that will do this. Note the 15+ minute time is for O1 with vanadium only, otherwise only hold 7-15 minutes depending on thickness. The 15 minute time will put the chrome and tungsten into solution and you will get chromium and tungsten carbides. If HT in a forge for 5 min you will get mostly ferrite or iron carbides. If Liquid Nitrogen is available then use it as it will work on O1 and improve the toughness, although it isn't worth paying for the improvement you'll get. If HT in an oven for max hardness then the As Quenched hardness will be HRC 64-65. Temper at HRC 400f/204c for 2 hrs. 2x for 63-62 450f/232c for 2 hrs. 2x for 61/60. 500f/260c for 2 hrs. 2x for 59/60.

Hey mate great video, I want to buy some steel to make some larger survival/chopper style knives, will I get the most out of 5160/SUP9 by heating past non magnetic and quenching in canola like you would with 1075/84?