Heat treating with a Map Pro Torch

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  • čas přidán 30. 08. 2017
  • Here I show the capacity and limits of using a bernzOmatic style hand torch for heat treating 1075/1084 steel. If you have the steel and nothing else and want to dive right in the hand torch would be an OK place to start as long as you keep the blade grind thin and the knife small overall. For not much more ($10) you can buy the best heat treating burner on the market:
    www.artisansupplies.com.au/pr...
  • Jak na to + styl

Komentáře • 18

  • @LilKing420s
    @LilKing420s Před 4 lety +11

    I think you might be working against yourself having the torch so close to the knife. Correct me if I'm wrong but, allowing the inner cone of the flame to touch the work tends to have a cooling effect as it allows unburned fuel, which is cold from it's phase change from liquid to gas, to contact the metal prior to it's ignition. If you maintain the flame so that the knife is at the tip of the inner cone, rather than the inner cone mashed up against the knife, I suspect will heat much faster than as demonstrated. Just a thought...

  • @itsalldoable
    @itsalldoable Před 2 lety

    Thank you for sharing this. It's still impressive what you can do with a MAP gas torch. 👍

  • @mightywhite360
    @mightywhite360 Před 2 lety

    I've always used my homemade propane forge to heat treat never tried to use a map torch until today. Well last night, I was using unknown steel so I tested a piece and it hardened great, but when I went to heat treat the blade I couldn't get a uniform heat. I ended up doing it in two parts. Bottom half closest to the tang then top half. It hardened enough to slice my finger open and then cut paper after I ground the forge scale off on the belt but I wasn't satisfied with it so I annealed it and I'm just gonna wait til I can get my propane tank refilled. Money's tight these days is the only reason I even tried with the map torch. I just happened to have a tank sitting around unused. Not sure why I couldn't get a good uniform heat, the blades only about 5-6" inches long. Idk 🤷🏼‍♂️

  • @craigcissel5042
    @craigcissel5042 Před 6 lety +2

    awesome work! may I ask what burner and torch you used? I'm going to try to make my first knife next week and plan on heat treating my 1084 with a torch. I just haven't decided what I need to get yet to do it. Thanks

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  Před 6 lety +1

      Hi Craig, its a BernzOmatic. By itself it won't work however, you will probably need a proper heat brick to hold some of the heat in. Field Furnace Refractories sell all types of insulation if you want to give it a go. I would strongly recommend building a small heat treating forge though. look for forge burners on Artisansupplies.com.au. For a little more effort building the correct tool it will do 100 times a better job than a hand torch.

    • @craigcissel5042
      @craigcissel5042 Před 6 lety

      would I be better served getting a coffee can, lining the inside with some insulated kaowool, and using that with a torch? Thanks for the quick response!

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  Před 6 lety +1

      Craig Cissel No, coffee can forges are terrible. The uneven temperature gradient will botch everything you do. It will be 100% of the effort to make an economy size working forge and 0% effective. I made a coffe can forge, trust me ;)

    • @craigcissel5042
      @craigcissel5042 Před 6 lety

      How would I go about doing that? I have some kaowool on the way now. How would I go about making an economy size forge? I would need it to be portable because I don't really have a dedicated workspace. Thanks!

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  Před 6 lety

      Craig Cissel economy size burner from Artisansupplies and a 4.5kg gas cylinder. Line that with kaowool and it will work great. There are vids on that website on burner pages that show how to line a forge.

  • @WuTangClanForever88
    @WuTangClanForever88 Před 3 lety

    So you are quenching as soon as you hit non-magnetic? You're not going slightly past non-magnetic?

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  Před 3 lety +2

      With this method by aiming for non magnetic you will probably overshoot the 815 degree mark a bit. If you aim for "slightly past" I reckon you are likely to overshoot by 100 degrees. There are a lot of variables with this method but if a little torch is all you have it can get you started in the hobby. If you enjoy it, long term aim to build something that provides good insulation and bettler heat control for heat treatment. Have you had a go yourself yet?

    • @WuTangClanForever88
      @WuTangClanForever88 Před 3 lety

      @@batcountryforge5945 I see. I've made about a dozen knives. I hollowed out some fire brick and use a mapp gas torch for a mini forge. I still have a lot to learn about heat treating.

  • @MrJoaquinnavarro
    @MrJoaquinnavarro Před 4 lety

    long time to achived the cherry red because he put it on the wood while heating..the wood absored the heat of the blade..much bettee put it on the hair..must faster.

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  Před 4 lety +1

      Hi Joaquin, actually the torch is unable to maintain an even temp across a 3.3mm x 100mm section. Not even suitable for edge quenching. . A smaller knife would be ok but not this size. I did a few of these vids that show a few of the problems with standard garage heat treat methods. I would recomend Gameco burners for better results. Thanks for watching!

  • @thadward4629
    @thadward4629 Před 4 lety +1

    You should be heating it up down the spine to avoid overheating the edge..fyi

    • @batcountryforge5945
      @batcountryforge5945  Před 4 lety +2

      With that size torch you wouldnt get enough heat into the steel by heating from the spine. An oxy fuel system would be another story however.

    • @LukePighetti
      @LukePighetti Před 4 lety +1

      I agree with Thad. If you run it vertically I think you'd be surprised at your results.