Well my 80crv2 outdoor blade from you is 62-63 we both are guessing it feels like that on the stones. Ive banged that blade on two by fours and such and its been very very good in all my tests so im sure a propane forge can do good knives. Know will every knife be spot on the samme hrc nope there will maybe be say 0.5 to 1 point maybe even 2 point difference every now and then. And the oven is a much more controlled even heat both tempering wise and auestinizing wise.
I still feel like I can make a good knife heat treatment in a propane Forge, but because of the inconsistencies, I do believe if you sell them the buyer u should at least know it was done in a forge and not an oven
I would like to have an oven like that some day. Which model did you end up going with? Having watch knifenerds video specifically on 80CRV2, I'm pretty much convinced that unless the heat treatment is controlled and repeatable, the hardness results will vary widely...from 40 up to 65. It seems as though the soaking time in the oven is the key to getting carbon back in solution and distributed evenly prior to quenching. I also really like your little vise with the two aluminum plates on them.
Thanks yeah the vice is a wood vise that’s what kind of style it is and then I just put some self tappers which screwed right into the aluminum. No problem. If you use Parks 50 you can get a good hardness in a propane forage, but the hardness will vary two or three points HRC I did a lot of heat treating in a propane Forge and I always had good grain structure and Hrc My version of the even heat is the 110 version. It does take a while for it to heat up but that’s fine with me. It doesn’t hurt Nothing definitely gives you consistent results. I’d rock the hell out of my 110 lol I don’t have a 220 out of the garage and my electrical system in my house is not too powerful hundred amp service so I had to keep it simple
Very interesting Aaron..all my heart treatment is done with a propane forge and agree with what you said about some knives coming out ever so slightly different 👀 having said that as long as the knife is properly heat treated/tempered does it really matter in the grand scheme of things 🤔all the best Lincoln 🤙👍
In the grand scheme of things no I don’t think it matters a few points here and there up or down it’s still gonna be a good knife. I think the reason larrin is so against heat treating in a forge is because all forge heat treats are “not” created equal, but no matter who the user is all ovens are created equal if the numbers are punched in right lol and sometimes that’s hard for me to do lol
I do believe every knife in this video that I reheat treated was already a good knife. I pretty much just redid it all for research purposes just to see if I can tell a difference and I definitely can tell a difference far as consistencies. I also noticed less warping and less scale.
Think I'll stick with propane for the carbon steels..few people asking me for stainless but my mate has a paragon oven I can use..I'll pull in a few favours 😁
@@harwoodblades3633 no need for a oven It’s all about the individual. I don’t need a 2 x 72 belt grinder and I didn’t need a heat treat oven either it’s very possible to making great knives without an oven.
Just watched a video on the knife steel nerd..loads of good info on that channel 👍 putting it into practice who knows 😁parks 50 is definitely a good oil.. keep it cooler for 01 warm it up for 80crv2🤔I use two bits of oak to take any warps out but don't get many nowadays 👍 the only time I do is double edge but it's rare🤔I use a cement slurry on the steel 😁
I'm looking for an oven now. I took 10 blades to a professional knife Smith to harden for me because I wanted them done right. When I got 7 of them completely finished with sheaths and everything I went to sharpen them. I couldn't get a good edge on them so I went and got my hardness file. Holy hell they only test between 40 and 50. I'm so pissed right now I could choke him. That's 3 months work down the drain and hundreds of dollars. If you want something done right do it yourself. These are supposed to be Christmas presents
@@AaronJohnson1979 W2 I thought the steel might have been bad so I heat treated one and it got hard as woodpecker lips. I can't believe he didn't check those blades before he give them to me. I didn't think I had to check them because he is a full time blade smith
@@richardbranton190 well W-2 needs to get in the oil within a second the oil needs to be parks 50 used canola oil or something HRC in the 40s that’s pretty much not even heat treated and canola oil. It’ll still get in the mid 50s I don’t know what happened that does sound strange
This is not how those files work, it is about scratching the surface, not digging it in the steel the files are not made for that, and will need replacement very quik. Don, t ask me how i know that.
Lol I hear you there usually I only scratch the blade but in this case, digging a hole in it gave me a little bit better idea of the slight differences in HRC. It’s hard to tell the difference of a point or to just scratching I guess with the force of scratch, but for me, it was pretty clear, digging into it I could easily tell which one was harder. I probably will never do it that way again
Doesn't aluminum draws heat quicker than air cool? Wouldn't that shock the steel harsher making more prone to warps? Why do you use it and do you use it on all blades?
Ill cool 80crv2 in parks#50 first after it’s around 150 degrees ill put it in the plates let it cool the rest of the way. Yes the aluminum plates are faster but they are forcing the blade to stay straight evenly with pressure.
@adj7214 so it doesn't have to be aluminum? Just a dead flat surface is needed? Cool furnace, by the way. I saw another video of yours where you used a thermocoupler doodon thingamagig in your forge. I just ordered one. Thanks for the videos and keep filming as much as you can.
@@MrRon2k , I used to use two pieces of angle iron in a vise that works too, it really helps with the warping. I want to try these ball peen hammers with a carbide bit on the end of the hammer. I guess you just give the knife a smack and it’s straight. I don’t know how it works but a lot of people are doing it, and they all say it works.
You can use two pieces of angle Iron in a bench vice at first This clamp is a woodworkers vice not great for high-pressure, but it’s good for this the aluminum plates I got from one of the knife stores online like Texas, knife supply or one of those
Very nice video! Can i ask for your opinion on this 80CrV2 knife break? The guy banged it on an iron pole and it broke right away. Would you say this is typical for that steel , HRC rated 59, or do you think this is a bad heat treatment issue? czcams.com/video/3_A0GpZDSSg/video.html
I would say that’s a bad heat treat or possibly a stress fracture, or didnt temper it back enough. Theres a lot it could be. 80crv2 is some really tough stuff
Před rokem+1
@@AaronJohnson1979 Thanx for the reply, i just ordered the knife, that's why i'm asking. I don't plan on doing what JOE X does, but that did look like it snapped a little too soon. Greets from Croatia!
@ joe x can give people the wrong impression on knives to just because a knife does poorly on a Destruction test doesn’t mean it’s not a good knife
Před rokem+2
@@AaronJohnson1979 that's true. Too bad that when he already destroys all those knives, he's not doing a little more sensible tests. No idiot is gonna bang on a rock or an iron pipe with his knife. And as expected, hard knives break, and softer knives survive that crap..
Lol, you let Mr Rogers get to ya ehhh? 🤣
😂
Well my 80crv2 outdoor blade from you is 62-63 we both are guessing it feels like that on the stones. Ive banged that blade on two by fours and such and its been very very good in all my tests so im sure a propane forge can do good knives. Know will every knife be spot on the samme hrc nope there will maybe be say 0.5 to 1 point maybe even 2 point difference every now and then. And the oven is a much more controlled even heat both tempering wise and auestinizing wise.
I still feel like I can make a good knife heat treatment in a propane Forge, but because of the inconsistencies, I do believe if you sell them the buyer u should at least know it was done in a forge and not an oven
@@AaronJohnson1979 yes sir
I would like to have an oven like that some day. Which model did you end up going with? Having watch knifenerds video specifically on 80CRV2, I'm pretty much convinced that unless the heat treatment is controlled and repeatable, the hardness results will vary widely...from 40 up to 65. It seems as though the soaking time in the oven is the key to getting carbon back in solution and distributed evenly prior to quenching. I also really like your little vise with the two aluminum plates on them.
Thanks yeah the vice is a wood vise that’s what kind of style it is and then I just put some self tappers which screwed right into the aluminum. No problem.
If you use Parks 50 you can get a good hardness in a propane forage, but the hardness will vary two or three points HRC I did a lot of heat treating in a propane Forge and I always had good grain structure and Hrc
My version of the even heat is the 110 version. It does take a while for it to heat up but that’s fine with me. It doesn’t hurt Nothing definitely gives you consistent results. I’d rock the hell out of my 110 lol
I don’t have a 220 out of the garage and my electrical system in my house is not too powerful hundred amp service so I had to keep it simple
Very interesting Aaron..all my heart treatment is done with a propane forge and agree with what you said about some knives coming out ever so slightly different 👀 having said that as long as the knife is properly heat treated/tempered does it really matter in the grand scheme of things 🤔all the best Lincoln 🤙👍
In the grand scheme of things no I don’t think it matters a few points here and there up or down it’s still gonna be a good knife. I think the reason larrin is so against heat treating in a forge is because all forge heat treats are “not” created equal, but no matter who the user is all ovens are created equal if the numbers are punched in right lol and sometimes that’s hard for me to do lol
I do believe every knife in this video that I reheat treated was already a good knife. I pretty much just redid it all for research purposes just to see if I can tell a difference and I definitely can tell a difference far as consistencies. I also noticed less warping and less scale.
Think I'll stick with propane for the carbon steels..few people asking me for stainless but my mate has a paragon oven I can use..I'll pull in a few favours 😁
@@harwoodblades3633 no need for a oven It’s all about the individual. I don’t need a 2 x 72 belt grinder and I didn’t need a heat treat oven either it’s very possible to making great knives without an oven.
Just watched a video on the knife steel nerd..loads of good info on that channel 👍 putting it into practice who knows 😁parks 50 is definitely a good oil.. keep it cooler for 01 warm it up for 80crv2🤔I use two bits of oak to take any warps out but don't get many nowadays 👍 the only time I do is double edge but it's rare🤔I use a cement slurry on the steel 😁
I'm looking for an oven now. I took 10 blades to a professional knife Smith to harden for me because I wanted them done right. When I got 7 of them completely finished with sheaths and everything I went to sharpen them. I couldn't get a good edge on them so I went and got my hardness file. Holy hell they only test between 40 and 50. I'm so pissed right now I could choke him. That's 3 months work down the drain and hundreds of dollars. If you want something done right do it yourself. These are supposed to be Christmas presents
What kind of steel did you make the 10 blades out of?
@@AaronJohnson1979 W2 I thought the steel might have been bad so I heat treated one and it got hard as woodpecker lips. I can't believe he didn't check those blades before he give them to me. I didn't think I had to check them because he is a full time blade smith
@@richardbranton190 well W-2 needs to get in the oil within a second the oil needs to be parks 50 used canola oil or something HRC in the 40s that’s pretty much not even heat treated and canola oil. It’ll still get in the mid 50s I don’t know what happened that does sound strange
Ouch, yeah, W stands for water quench.. That stuff needs to get cold - fast.
This is not how those files work, it is about scratching the surface, not digging it in the steel the files are not made for that, and will need replacement very quik. Don, t ask me how i know that.
Lol I hear you there usually I only scratch the blade but in this case, digging a hole in it gave me a little bit better idea of the slight differences in HRC. It’s hard to tell the difference of a point or to just scratching I guess with the force of scratch, but for me, it was pretty clear, digging into it I could easily tell which one was harder. I probably will never do it that way again
Doesn't aluminum draws heat quicker than air cool? Wouldn't that shock the steel harsher making more prone to warps? Why do you use it and do you use it on all blades?
Ill cool 80crv2 in parks#50 first after it’s around 150 degrees ill put it in the plates let it cool the rest of the way. Yes the aluminum plates are faster but they are forcing the blade to stay straight evenly with pressure.
@adj7214 so it doesn't have to be aluminum? Just a dead flat surface is needed? Cool furnace, by the way. I saw another video of yours where you used a thermocoupler doodon thingamagig in your forge. I just ordered one. Thanks for the videos and keep filming as much as you can.
@@MrRon2k , I used to use two pieces of angle iron in a vise that works too, it really helps with the warping. I want to try these ball peen hammers with a carbide bit on the end of the hammer. I guess you just give the knife a smack and it’s straight. I don’t know how it works but a lot of people are doing it, and they all say it works.
I’m new to this knife making world, where could I find the clamp system that you are using in the video with the aluminum plates?
You can use two pieces of angle Iron in a bench vice at first
This clamp is a woodworkers vice not great for high-pressure, but it’s good for this the aluminum plates I got from one of the knife stores online like Texas, knife supply or one of those
I just used self tapping screws and screwed it right to the aluminum plates
Hey, thanks for the info!
What are the inside dimensions of your electric forge?
6 x 8 x 15
Do you sell your knives?
No, I current don’t
Very nice video! Can i ask for your opinion on this 80CrV2 knife break? The guy banged it on an iron pole and it broke right away. Would you say this is typical for that steel , HRC rated 59, or do you think this is a bad heat treatment issue? czcams.com/video/3_A0GpZDSSg/video.html
I would say that’s a bad heat treat or possibly a stress fracture, or didnt temper it back enough. Theres a lot it could be. 80crv2 is some really tough stuff
@@AaronJohnson1979 Thanx for the reply, i just ordered the knife, that's why i'm asking. I don't plan on doing what JOE X does, but that did look like it snapped a little too soon. Greets from Croatia!
@ joe x can give people the wrong impression on knives to just because a knife does poorly on a Destruction test doesn’t mean it’s not a good knife
@@AaronJohnson1979 that's true. Too bad that when he already destroys all those knives, he's not doing a little more sensible tests. No idiot is gonna bang on a rock or an iron pipe with his knife. And as expected, hard knives break, and softer knives survive that crap..
@ exactly a true destruction test, where I would actually use that information to buy a knife would be if it breaks during use that it was made to do
Wwhy are you normalizing before annealing? It seems like you are going backwards.
Well, watch the first 10 seconds of the video again, look at the chart
😊😊😊