Damascus steel for beginners Part 2
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2017
- Following on from the previous video I show some of the techniques and important points to note while forge welding.
Flux before the steel gets orange
Soak the billet to an even temperature
Open the inspirator and increase the gas pressure
Soak at welding temp
Tap gently along the center of the blade then the outsides
Repeat until the billet looks welded
Turn on its side and tap to see if welds open up.
The blade is made with a jacket of pattern welded 1075 / 15n20 over the outside of an 80CrV2 core. In a similar fashion to how Japanese bladesmiths once constructed blades. One needs to be careful to work the steel evenly on both sides to keep the core steel in the centre. - Jak na to + styl
Everything started fading away and I thought my phone had turned off the backlight lol. Nice transition out
Would love to give you a " Thumbs-Up " sadly your Audio tecording fell short..however keep up the good tutorial work..!!
Great detail on the process....enjoyed it very much...Thanks
great video I hope you make another one to finish of. raindrop Damascus is one of my favorite patterns I would like to see what you do with the billet. I am gonna try to make one tomorrow I got the steel ready today
Thanks for sharing. I am learning to make a Damascus knife and need to know what needed to join the metal
Great video. Would love to see the result when you have a finished item.
Great vid but it is missing the money shot. We want to see how the pattern turned out.
Paul Fontanini Hi Paul, I haven't finished the knife yet. I spend too many weekends doing gameco stuff.
great two parter thanks for making it! how much pressure do you run your burner when forgewelding? and how much gas do you use per hour? thanks :)
Hi...i try to make my first damascus but does not become
hi. thx o much for this video. i just have one question, (or 3). first. can you buy pre folded demascus metal? secndly, could you put this into a smelter and liquify it; then put it into a mold and go from there? thx!!!
Yes, you can in fact buy pre-folded damascus steel. However, melting it down and then casting it would essentially mix all the steels together into one, destroying the pattern that you would get from hand-forged damascus. Hope this helps!
hello, i do not have a lot of experience in blacksmithing, so can you tell me if the fume at 5:50 of your video is dangerous?
Yes, the fumes coming off that borax as it melts would be mostly steam but it would also be carrying a lot of other junk with it. RULE TO LIVE BY: "If it isn't air don't get it in your lungs"
Thank you for the informations
So you test the forge weld by hitting it diagonally, but you've tack welded the pieces together. How would you know, just caught my attention.
Because it is soft the layers will separate dispite the tac welds. Also ideally, you lay the welds in so poorly that the weld metal falls away after a few heats ;) dont want them ending up in the knife.
Where did you get your power hammer from?
Bruce Beamish, through Anyang Australia.
Bat Country Forge what weight and cost was it?
@@tbkustomknives8907 25kg moving part, 980kg overall. It was $10,000 AUD in 2015 landed and transported into my workshop.
great video but its not really for beginners .beginners don't have power hammers
Thanks Steve! Yeah I wanted to focus more on how to complete a weld sucessfully. I think drawing out stock by hand would have to be its own video.
yes I've tried to do it myself I can get it to weld the fist time but cant get the second weld to hold after the fold so I gave up but you have inspired me to try again . I also tried a canister last week it didn't fully weld either any tips buy the way awsome job with the video and the Damascus
Steve the hot fold takes some getting used to because you need to 1. cut most of the way through the billet so it folds quickly/easily. 2. clean scale off the steel and flux the inside of the weld then put it in the forge to get it malleable. 3. Clean the weld faces again incase flux formed and tap it shut. This in my experience does not have to be done at welding temp. But you need to reapply flux and get it to welding temp and then set the weld (with firm taps) after you have folded.
Until recently I used to just let it go cold. Then grind it clean/flat, then restack, re-stick weld, preheat, flux, welding temp, flux, soak then set the weld. It is the safer way to go, just takes a bit more time.
thanks for the quick reply yes I've tried the fist part and was going to try it cold I also need to buy better equipment eg grinders etc. but there's no one in Perth to ask or sells any of that stuff I will keep trying so thanks for the input
Steve go look up Jake @ Fire Pants Fabrication facebook.com/firepantsfab/?ref=br_rs he's based in Perth making heaps of cool shit for the knife maker and blacksmith.
I just purchased a striking Anvil from him and a Swage Block and already have one of his belt grinders - he's also making mini gas forges!
No beginner has a big blu power hammer or a proper set gas forge... Btw We beginners usually use coal or coke to generate heat...
Hi Christoph, In Australia most people can set up a gas forge easier than a solid fuel forge. Coke and coal are hard to get unless you are close to a blacksmith club, whereas you can by LPG anywhere here. The method of forging has very little to do with achieving a solid weld, the power hammer just makes it faster. When welding with solid fuel I used to notice that sparks would come from small overheated sections and that was a telltale sign that parts of the billet had reached the correct temperature (or maybe a little over). This does not happen in gas forges very much, rather you have to pay attention to how the flux behaves on the surface of the steel. What size billets are you trying to weld Christoph?
DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU SAID OR HOW TO DO WHAT U ARE DOING...............