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How about replace the camera lens.maybe from smartphone camera lens?

What are the two terminals next to the bed terminal, labeled sig for?

1:27

When I started watching, I was sure to not buy it. But after seeing how well you customised it and it is affordable, I might go for it. Battery upgrade was a great move.

You didnt say if you hooked up a water cooling supply? Wouldnt a few 12v fans have done the cooling 4 u instead - maybe a few calcs would have shown you only had to dispose of say 10-20W of heat in total? I hope you have someone around to help you with electronics as you cant get your head around ohms law and I2R yet

Excellent design and construction skills not shown by many

I didn't know that things could be designed like this. Super inspiring!!!

the charger probably blew up because its for 110v american power

im sure this uses coreless dc motors like mine which is great. open her up and upgrade the 2 dual mosfet chips for discretes. mine had 6 amp chips which did a spectacular smoke trail then a flip and dead. any low voltage gate mosfet will do but lower on resistance and steeper curve the better. 2 18650 should give more flight time than the equivelent weight of lipo on long flights. taking the crap camera off as its a waste of power. my next upgrade will be bigger motors and props or maybe double the motors for a 4 strut octocopter

you needed some kind of sand or dust !!! water doesnt seem to take down battery fires

Did you ever try a sheet of carbon fiber? Im upgrading one of these printers for my nephew. Removing an extruder so we can use an 8x14 bed. A Big increase over stock. Aliexpress has complete aluminum upgrade kits for $120 that also breath life back into these. Get it running on a 32 bit Klipper and add closed loop encoders and its bettwr than a modern printer

Are you still about I’m wondering if you up todo a joint project

Please do more with this QUADCOPTER. Maybe upgrade the antennas?

Wow, things have come a LONG way in 6 years!

Just to nerd out a bit, it’s 1 K not 1 degree K

Looks like this video is old, but I'd put it on the other front corner and you could use a shorter ribbon cable and have fewer snaking issues.

😆 " The concept"

Just installed a copper block, was kinda random. Was after end stop switch, and the shipping kinda forced me to throw in a few products. Was kinda curious, and well. Block that was on had shady screws, so why not. Just thrown away 3 hours of my life on changing parts, like idle pulley and replaced cooling mount and shroud because im new to 3d printing and well. Results luckily has mostly gone in a positive way. I'm running new pid calibration and watched the temperature for a moment. Copper vs aluminium, first impression. Copper seems to get things up to temp allot faster. Cant remember i seen it go up to temp so fast. Took a screenshot of pid settings before running pid calibration. So, will be interesting to see what the printer/marlin thinks and what of if settings will change. Anyways, kinda surprised how fast the temp went up. That being said, machine has been able to run stable temps when i been observing. Ignoring a couple very odd glitches i guess was software related. Running marlin 2.0.6 R10, and have experienced a couple odd things. And atm, im stuck with it because i havent been able to update to newer ver. Im doing something wrong, have no idea what...

Lol i tought there is a bomb inside …why this piece of paper is so dangerous ?

My friend had one of those l, they used a different charger and the batteries puffed up

I was worried about holding the iron on the battery for 2 sec´s , like I do soldering them. Seems like I´m good and continue soldering.

what about flow rate ?

I have an E58 that uses the 3.7v-500mAh battery, but I don't have access to a 3D printer. Is there anywhere I can buy you 3D printed case, or a kit, or the whole completed MOD? Love your channel and what you have created here!

Did you make your power wall? Can we have a tour? I loved your videos and miss seeing how you stepped through the processes.

You might as well have put the battery in the oven. You worked on the soldering iron for too long, it is clear that the battery will be damaged. This is a ridiculous show. Soldering a battery usually takes a maximum of 5 seconds, usually only 3 seconds

Where is this now?

We need the follow up video for the 3d printer

Excellent descriptive.

Pls help me why can i power my drone with an 18650?

hey nerdville how are you going long time no c I hope all is well with you and your family and work life balance miss you

If u wanna turn of the light, hold the r2 button so you can save battery and more flight time

Where is the link at??

Thanks for this video! Only thing I am questioning is does it affect the maximum volumetric flow of the filament to switch from aluminium to copper?

thx, i had this drone laying around for about 4 years, know i opened it batteries dies so i decide to upgrade and this is super cool, thanks for the stl files :)

Yes good very nice

Hm lovely

My thinking here, is that even if you don't go with a copper block, a copper nozzle could build be very favorable. IMO where it is most critical to have the most thermal mass, is in the nozzle, because that's what's melting and extruding the filament. Once up to temp, I believe a copper nozzle would be able to smooth out _some_ of the smaller temperature fluctuations of a lesser thermally dense heater block. As long as there's good contact of course. If the block has cooled a small bit, there's a good chance the nozzle is still a little bit hotter (unless running on the edge of how much filament it can handle), and by the time the cartridge has heated the block and that increased heat reaches the nozzle, the nozzle temperature will likely have dropped significantly less in temperature than a brass or steel one would. It will take longer to increase the temperature of the nozzle again, but the delta to temp target will be smaller. IMO the goal here, except staying within the capacity of your print head of course, is thermal *consistency.* Every setup has its own variables, so we have to tune our setups regardless. But knowing that the temperature you end up with, will fluctuate much less, is great. I for one, can tune down my temps a little when printing somewhat fast, as I usually overshoot a little to be on the safe side when nozzle temp fluctuates. And i know a lot of other people do this too.

I find the best way to solder these cells is with an old fashioned soldering iron that is heated with a gas blow torch , the process of heating the cells negative end is much faster and takes only about 3 seconds. we have been making up battery packs for R/C cars and boats for years this way and we have never had any problems. the iron needs to be red hot and much larger in its contact area.

Please make more videos, I'd like to see your take on enclosed prusa with Acrylic sheets! :)

Hey Nerdville, are you doing well? You disappeared, what has happened to you ? I'd bet you got a job offer from a company to produce this stuff for them. Good luck and hope you are doing well!

Your IR test was ridiculous, how not to solder a battery 👎🏻

thay r good till thay rip u of been waiting almost 2 years for next 1 to turn up and when u message them that don't get back to u

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FAKE. There is a reason he doesn't film the drone flying on 18650. They simply can't provide enough current to power 4 brushed motors, let alone, in addition, electronic necessary to fly. Best case scenario; it's just going to stop as soon as you try to accelerate even a little bit. More likely you are going to damage the electronics of the drone itself. Worst case scenario; unprotected 18650 will catch fire and/or explode. It boggles the mind that someone could be so irresponsible to post something like this chasing views.

Ohh look, its Omid Djilali’s skinny brother

I have tried many 18650s but the visuo DOESN'T FLY! It turns on, tries to take off and turns off immediately. Why ?

So basically, where the old heater wires connected to the mainboard, you connected the mosfets "control" location, then Power in/out to the source voltage, and hotend. Is that correct?

Build a 32 18650 Charger and know the solder struggle :D

Real unique and awesome way to enclose the top of the printer without just mounting a large box on top. Great work and nicely made video too :)

You are help me thanks bro