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Sounds like you got the info you were looking for. Glad to hear it. Thanks for the feedback.

Well ..... I hope you're able to solve your issue. Was there something in particular you were trying to clarify in greater detail I didn't cover?

Glad it helped. Thank you for the feed back. Hope you're able to sort it out.

Cabin Fever I guess. Glad you appreciated the detail though. Thanks.

Not sure off the top of my head. I can check and get back to you if you haven't already sorted it out.

Thank you. More to come!

Do you mean after reinstalling it?

Glad it was helpful. Hope your able to sort it out.

Yah sometimes that's motivated by trying to be thorough and address common questions people may have. Some of its just babbling while Im demonstrating something. Or maybe it was a little cabin fever that day. People tend to skip around a lot. So I tend to recap in some videos for that reason as well. Always working on it though. Hope you got something out of it at least.

Thank you. COMPLETE motor oil perhaps? I emphasize COMPLETE due to the inclusion of draining the crankcase, which most people skip. Making it complete. As well as a few extras. I guess I didnt foresee that perspective. Generically most refer to it as an oil (and filter) change OR oil, filter, and fluids. regarding the others mentioned. I do have a separate video on the other fluids you mention if interested though. Thanks again.

This model does not require that. Some do. But this particular model does not. You simply need to tug on the agitator from the bottom to get it to snap off.

This model does not require that. Some do. But this particular model does not. You simply need to tug on the agitator from the bottom to get it to snap off.

Part I used is an SKF speedi-sleeve. The box of the one I used says the size is 2.625 - 2.631 so thats the ID and the OD s its .006 or 6 thousandths of an inch thick. And it only has a skew # on it. I don't see any specified part # anywhere on the box, /the skew is 0 95311 04204 8 Above the skew 99262 ? Thats about all I got. Hope that helps. May or may not be the one you need if your working on another year/make/model wheeler.

Manual indicates for initial bearing adjustment to torque to 160-170 INCH lbs. Notice not foot lbs. While rotating hub continuously. Then back off nut 1/2 turn. Then retorque to 108 - 144 inch lbs. and adjust as needed to align hole for cotter pin but do not exceed 144 inch lbs. It's been a few years but I think I babble about that in the video. If not this one, its additional info in another.

You are most welcome. New Zealand was an almost a few years ago. It may come back around. I'll have to check out your channel. What's the topics covered? For anyone who may read this.

@@ericinalaska7648 RV travels ,fishing ,4WD trips ,and the occasional cruise ship adventures

Mission accomplished. Glad it was helpful.

Glad to hear it. Thanks. Glad it was worthy of your time. And you found it helpful.

Glad to hear it. Always good when a plan comes together.

I do discuss that in the video, regarding using a piston stop or other options. Just sharing an option. I also discuss that it's important to understand that it's a reverse thread. Ive never really needed much force to crack the nut. Certainly not enough to break the flywheel. But certainly care should be taken. Especially if it's not understood it's a reverse thread and trying too hard to crack it when actually tightening it. Ive used a few options over the years. But not everyone has a piston stop handy and it's just another way to come at it. And it also allows your to see in and eval your piston a bit as well as clean things up . Spark arrestor etc. Just an option. But your concerns should be considered.

@@ericinalaska7648 you are also right guess I didn't think about it that way thank you for sharing

@@danielpadgett2831 Thank you for watching and commenting. It's always helpful to her viewers perspectives and thoughts. It helps address and clarify things for other viewers that may read the comments also. Thanks again.

@@ericinalaska7648 absolutely

I would see what happens when you change the cable first. If that's your plan. That way you can get a better understanding and see if that solves anything or reveals more or the real issue.

You are welcome. Happy to at least contribute in some small way.

Nope.. It was only the wiring to the Hilliard clutch or more specifically the activation of it turning AWD on or off. That should not affect the speedo. There may be depending on your year make and model. Another wire/cable going to the back of the front right tire that has a sensor that indicates speed or rotation of the wheel to the speedo. It's called a Hall affect cable. Again depending on year make and model. Look at any cables/connections coming from the back of the speedo and trace. See what reveals itself.

Id say a few ways. Leaky, sloppy or does not return to the decompressed position. Meaning returning the foot pedal to the upward or ready position. How ever, if you have a leak or malfunction down the line. Or at the caliper for example Id start with repairing that and work my way back from there as needed. Those down the line failures could cause the master to seem as though it's not functioning properly. Hope that helps.

@@ericinalaska7648 yep just discovered a leak in the line , thanks and now I need to a flare tool, thanks again

@@bluefallon6374 Sounds like your on it. Best of luck.

Glad to hear it. Primary goal. Thank you.

Hmm. How much is or are they out?

Maybe a quarter inch or more, the way it looks is the main clutch is tapered shaft and , no way to misalign it, the secondary clutch, i put spacers behind it, i thought went there, (but maybe not) i appreciate any help, iv had this thing torn apart a couple of months, i have a 99 500 and this 400, starter on both went out same day, 500 was easy, the 400 two stroke, has been a nightmare

@@jandeband I'll help as best I can. It's a bit hard though not having seen the before and after. The best thing I can suggest to anyone aside from take pics/video with your phone as you go, is a manual for the specific make model year. There reasonably priced and can be invaluable. Here is a link to one or will at least get you where you need to be to browse. amzn.to/3rFQW6p You may find one that covers both. Happy to help where I can. Just kind of hard, or limiting at that level without eyes on it.

Yes, spring compression using a spring compressor may make it easier in some situations for sure. Might not be a bad idea to have one handy. Ive been fortunate, it seems to go as demonstrated but can see how it may be a bit more of a struggle on other models or perhaps newer shocks. Thanks for sharing your experience.

It can certainly happen with something as simple as not frequent enough oil changes. Does it have what is some times described as a milkshake look? Kind of milky and maybe grayish whiteish swirl look to it? If that's the case it's possibly/likely a result of coolant being mixed with the oil commonly a result of a bad head gasket. Another symptom would be white smoke from the exhaust. But not necessarily . I believe one can exist with out the other but if you have both. You can probably conclude you have a bad head gasket.

@@ericinalaska7648 thanks for the reply mate and someone stole the quad off me I then got it back from someone else he just said it seized up as I’m waiting on parts I have drained the oil and it’s like cake mixture only way to describe it how would I flush it out ? Would diesel do the trick ?

@@gvn-xk6eq If your not sure Im confident you could take it (a sample of the oil) to a shop and get a professional opinion. They could probably look at it and tell you if it's contaminated somehow. Say with coolant. But the seized up info would make me suspicious for that. (Coolant) As far as flushing? Id personally just tare it down and clean everything and rebuild/repair as needed. Probably not your preference but flushing it really won't answer any questions or solve any mysteries. If you were to flush it and put oil in and say it's still presenting a problem. Which it sounds like it probably would. You've spent time and money only to decide what the next move is. Let me know how it goes and what you learn.

@@ericinalaska7648 do you have a email I could reach you on or social media instagram twitter Facebook etc? I’m in the Uk I’m struggling to find a woodruff key as it has sheered off a little but I would really appreciate some advice and help if I get stuck along the way I’ve only ever rebuilt pit bikes from the ground up nothing bigger

@@ericinalaska7648 sorry for all the questions but I’ve removed the stator and found the cog that sits on the crank arm which holds the timing chain is broken I’ve removed it which was hand tight I’m wondering how do I tighten it back on is it with a castle socket or is it meant to be hand tight only ?

I'd love to hear how it works out for you. Im a firm believer with all generators. Maintenance is crucial.

That is correct. In the dipstick opening.

Thank you as well. Glad it was helpful.

Glad you found them helpful. I have not. Other than the complete oil change video where I opened up the oil reservoir and cleaned it out. I would be concerned, more out of instinct than known information, that particularly when any seals are involved that you may damage them. And contribute to the pos of leaks or worse case seal failure. As long as you warm things up before draining the fluids, it usually does a sufficient job. If money isn't a concern you can certainly flush with the same fluid to be safe. And or just change your fluids more often. Im not saying there isn't a flush solution for such applications, just saying Ive never used anything and am not familiar. But Id use caution experimenting with anything/chemicals/solvents you dont know are designed for the purpose. Hope that helps. Thanks agin for the feedback.

@@ericinalaska7648 Awesome Eric, thanks so much for responding.

@@bradcarlson2096 Of course. No problem.

Glad It was of help. Thanks for the feedback.

Glad to hear you've found them helpful. I did a disassembly video and you can just reverse the steps and I believe I covered torque in that as well. czcams.com/video/aB71Y7bt3Rk/video.html is the link for that one. But for the year make and model Im working on in the video the torque instructions are as follows. 1. Torque spindle nut to 160-170 Inch lbs. (18-19 Nm). while rotating hub continuously. 2. Back off nut 1/2 turn. 3.Rotate axle several revolutions by raising rear of machine and rotating rear wheels with the machine in gear. 4.Re-torque hub nut to 108-144 inch lbs.(12-16.3 Nm) 5. Install cotter pin. If if cotter pin holes do not align . Tighten slightly to align and install pin. Do not exceed 144 inch lbs. And then the rest of the assembly and refill of course. Cap fluid etc.

Yah. Lots of babbling. Hope you got something of use out of it.

You bet. Back at ya.

The stutter I'll address. The loss of applied power. Is likely unrelated. It could be a few things. Id need more info though on that and when and what your doing and how its responding. Just in case you weren't aware I'll cover a couple things. Not sure it's your issue but can contribute. And it's been a bit since making that video. But it's important to clean the surfaces the belt rides on. But more important is proper break in. Most belts have instructions with or avail. But off the top of my head it's riding at a consistent speed for a period of time without any aggressive throttling etc. Just steady speed on a tame road or trail. Also Check the belt deflection. Lay a straight edge from pulley to clutch or meaning across the top of the belt and press down on the belt in the middle midway between the two and measure the distance from the straight edge to the belt. And if it's not ok specific to your machine. It may need adjusting. I'll have to look up the proper deflection. Im away at the moment, but let me now if any of that helps or if you've done this and are still having the issue.

@@ericinalaska7648 appreciate you, gonna be a few days before I can get back at it.

@@richmoore5525 Let me know how it go's.

Yes. Can't emphasize that enough. Commonly overlooked. (Discussed in video as well.)

Happy to try and help. Is there anymore to the story? Not sure where to begin. Are they locked up seemingly permanently? Or how and what were you doing when you experienced this? Are they locked only when in AWD? Can you roll the ATV shut down or running?

I am not aware of a fuse. The wire I used to test it, or bypass the sensor with is home made. Just a pc of wire and two male bladed style couplers crimped on. You could just use a pc of wire as well. Just a little more challenging to make sure you have the ends in and making good contact. Thats really all you need. I crimped the blades on so I could be hands free and know I had good contact. Do you see circulation? Coolant flowing in? If your level is where it is suppose to be you may not see a big difference in level as your thermostat opens and closes. If you're not seeing circulation. And you get overheating you have an issue trapped air or perhaps with the thermostat. Not to self promote but if you watch the entire video I cover the most common symptoms and causes. Im happy to discuss and help but the video covers it better than I could typing it all. Let me know if there are anymore pcs. to the puzzle.

Hello, Thanks for the quick response and ,I have been subscribed for a while now and watched your videos several times before messaging you and many of your other Atv videos and I'm new to Atv repairs myself, I will test the fan since it is not working and check the thermostat as well, When I took the radiator cap off the there was only a small amount of fluid below the top. I did overheat very badly about a month ago and the overflow lost all fluids when that happened. I did fill up the overflow today and will continue to attempt to locate the issue. Thanks Again for the quick response and keep up the good work.

@@gofishingfishing Well let me know what you learn or if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to help.

Ok Thanks , Will do

Glad it helped. Good luck.

Hey there. Stud extenders are readily available from many sources. Amazon of course as well as take your pick of auto stores. I believe they come in a few lengths. So You'd have to figure what you need there. Im really not sure how many choices or versions there are regarding the threads. Im confident that a quick conversation with someone that sells them could clear that up pretty quick. Over the years Ive personally found the rears to be more prone to fly off. I have yet to loose a front one. But that doesn't mean it doesn't happen or that others wouldn't say there experience has been the opposite of mine. Hope that helps.

It was a place called Online glass/Peninsula glass a supplier out of Vancouver WA. They were a bit cheaper than most. But I will say, this was a smaller window and I feel when looking at the reflection from outside the glass appears a bit out of uniformity or wavy for lack of a better description. And I wondered if it was just luck of the draw or if they used inferior glass on a the smaller unit because it wouldn't be as noticeable or if I were to do a larger window would it have been similar from this supplier and even more noticeable. Id just say check with someone local or use the ole google machine and see what works best for you. The process is similar with most of them. They want dimensions. Length, width and stress the importance of thickness of the unit. I had taken a pane out to measure it and then reinstalled it until the new ones came. Not a full install. Just put it back in and reinstalled the retainers.Then you get to also decide on things like grids, tint, UV coating and type of gas inside Argon etc. But at this point I have no loyalty to any specific supplier and would not recommend my source over any other. I felt the price process and timeliness was all good but wonder if there is a better quality glass used with other suppliers. Im content with the end result of this window. But wonder if I would be staring through a larger primary window as far as the quality of the glass. Hope that helps.

Primary motivation for making this particular video. Many models require the dome removal and a nut under neath. Once I figured that out on this one I thought. People would want to know this. So there we go. Glad it helped.

The spring side should be toward the casting. I usually get it lined up and use the brake disk by tightening the screws alternating and doing my best to do them evenly until it's seated properly. You don't want to whale on it with a hammer or damage it putting it in. Also you need to put some grease on the contact surface of the seal. Im assuming you're replacing it because it leaked. It's important to make sure all surfaces are clean and free of damage. and that everything is assembled properly with proper torque on the castle nut etc. Hope that helps. Let me know how it go's.

@ericinalaska7648 yea it leaking the one i changed is the hub bearing seal...n still leaks. It might b the one in the video u did using the home depot pipe....so what u saying casting. Im not sure where the casting u talking about...

@@zongyang6602 The hub casting meaning the part your installing the seal into. The spring should go in toward the part your putting it into.

@ericinalaska7648 ok...ty. Ill try that.

@ericinalaska7648 it was leaking n i changed the hub bearing seal but still leaks so it might b the struts seal, where u did the video...

Hahahahah!!!!!! Tactical flip flops Ive been told. It was a once in a lifetime event. And I also am offended. I offended myself. It was an in and out of the house repeatedly situation and they were by the door. Definitely not a fashion statement. They may not even be on properly. Hopefully you were able to get past the distraction and find some value in the rest of the video. I seriously actually cringed when editing it and considered editing that out. But got over it. Hopefully you can as well.

What year make and model do you have? Or is it the same with a different configuration?

Great to hear! Always the desired outcome.

It's my understanding that pinching off the hose for priming is really only called for if you disconnect the line(s). But it cant hurt really to go through the priming procedure anyway. It is possible that having it up and pinched may inhibit the flow due to pressure in the system not being able to escape as it fills. Im speculating but that's my thought in regards to your question. Im also thinking by the time I got back to you, you've likely over come the obstacle. Definitely no need or advantage to pinching the line prior to fill that I can think of.

Thanks! I did figure out that my 2007 oil spout is much lower than yours in the video. so I had to put 1 quart in…run the engine for a minute which circulated the oil throughout the crank case, etc. then put the second quart in after that. I also did the pump priming because the did remove and clean the lower hose screen. Thanks again for the video. It was very helpful. I appreciate the detail and simple explanations all the best.!

@@Jdeneik Good deal. Carry on then I guess.

Yah Ive been happy with this one. Read a lot of good stuff about them as well. Seems they were/are a desirable year/model in particular. Was not aware of the demise of Briggs. I remember them being a big part of Milwaukee years back and was under the impression they still were. Thought Ive seen them on lawnmowers still currently no?

Hmmm. Are you saying it's that way stock or the current state after an issue/damage? Id have to do some exploring on that one a bit to chime in with anything. What's specifically the issue? AWD not working Im assuming.