Polaris Sportsman 500 Voltage Regulator 1999 (And Similar)
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- čas přidán 19. 01. 2022
- This video is an answer to where is my voltage regulator and how do I remove or swap it out. This is a 1999 Polaris Sportsman 500. Other years makes and models will of course vary. And I do disconnect my battery although its usually not indicated. Below are some symptoms of a bad voltage regulator. I don't get into all that in the video. Just where and how. Always remember to check your year make and model and part number. They can be different than the one in the video. Below is a link to the part specific to the machine Im working on in the video. If you need to search a different part. The link will still get you where you need to be.
Link for replacement. amzn.to/3GIyobT
Be sure to confirm compatibility with your year make and model.
Link for a decent shop manual. amzn.to/3rFQW6p
Symptoms of a bad voltage regulator include but are not limited too.
Probably the most common symptom is. Flickering or Dimming head
lights. Change in brightness when throttling.
Frequently blown bulbs. No High Beams.
Also: Dead battery or frequent/unusual need to top off with
distilled water.
Non functioning instrument cluster lights. But there could
be other things contributing to that as well.
There are ways to test a voltage regulator of course but the
results above would likely be present if you demonstrated high or low or no
voltage output while testing.
It does not affect the price you would pay. Links are provided for convenience. But I may make a small commission (Usually pennies.) on any products purchased through the Amazon Assoc. Program. Via links provided. Thank you for your support.
This video is for demonstration purposes only. Always follow your manufacturers and year make and model recommendations and requirements. And I do disconnect my battery. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I had a 2001 Sportsman 500 HO. Your videos helped me get it running to the point where I could sell it! Now, I’m enjoying a 2022 Polaris Sportsman 570 EPS! Thanks!
Great to hear! Thats fantastic. Hopefully with such a new rig you won't be needing to do any real repairs other than maintenance any time soon. Thanks for the support. And glad I was able to contribute.
Nice video Eric. Thanks for posting. Look forward to the next one...
Absolutely.
Again, an excellent video I would not own where to look for that
Mission accomplished. Glad it was helpful.
Great video sir. It’s been awhile. Hope you and your family are doing well.
Thanks, yes it has been a while. I have a few things that need editing and more to come. I got a little sidetracked. But Ill always find my way back. All is well. Appreciate the support.
Great videos buddy
Thanks ! More to come.
Eric, first of all let me start by saying Happy Easter. I have a question about the flywheel on my 2001 sportsman 500 . On the flywheel it’s self the outside ring the raised tap that activates the the trigger coil is that supposed to be magnetized . Or is it just the inside ring that is . Thanks for your help again.
Im trying to follow along with your description on a schematic but Im not confident I know exactly what your referring to. But my first instinct is no.
No Eric, it’s not magnetized the pickup coil is I just checked it and the pickup coil is magnetized and sticks to the raised part of the flywheel. Thanks for getting back to me so soon. Just ordered a new stater and stater plate. The person that had it before me put a new stater in and stripped the holes in the stater plate so the stater let lose and got torn up by the flywheel. So anyway thanks again Eric your a great guy. I’m in New Jersey and waiting for the weather to break. Tom
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Sounds like your learning more everyday whether you like it or not huh? No problem. Happy to help if I can. And if I can't Ill at least try to point you in the right direction. Sunny days ahead.
I appreciate the video also it is a T25
Thank you.
Hi Eric, I have a Polaris 500 the year is 2000. I had it in for services and when the person returned it to me they asked if the right front wheel locks up occasionally? I said no, they said it does now. I thought I saw somewhere in one of your videos how to fix the right front wheel from locking up. He had the wheels off the machine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much, your videos are fantastic.
John
Tough one with out experiencing it first hand. Does it lock up? Or engage into AWD? Is it in AWD when it locks up? Or 2WD and seems to grab? Personally with limited insight as to what exactly you're experiencing. My first thought is to lift the machine. Up on blocks or with a lift if you have access. But a stable safe sturdy set up elevating all four tires off the ground. And go through the motions to see what it's doing. And go from there.
Eric, great video as always! I looked through your playlist and don't see anything related to the fuel system. I want to change my fuel filter on a 2004 Sportsman 700 EFI and it looks like I need to relieve pressure from the fuel rail. Are you familiar with the EFI systems? I see where the integrated relief valve is but it looks like I need to purchase and connect a fuel pressure test kit for this. Just wondering if you have an ATV with EFI that you have worked on the fuel system?
I have limited knowledge or experience, but I'll share what I understand and see if it helps or if anyone else can elaborate on it. 2 ways I'm aware of. I prefer the 2nd way. It sounds like you have a shrader valve/pressure relief valve. (Like a valve stem for a bike connection.) Ive know many to simply depress that valve with a screwdriver or similar. Like letting the air out of a tire. As you would imagine there will be vaporized fuel being released so use caution and protect yourself as needed if you choose to do it that way. There is probably a better way or something you could hook up. But I haven't done it that way so I haven't needed to solve that issue. (The following is my preferred method.) If you don't have a shrader valve, or even if you do, you can remove the fuse for your fuel supply/pump, (This is how Ive done it ) attempt to start the engine, or if it runs let it starve for fuel and dies. This should release the pressure. Then swap out your filter. If you're not certain the filter is your problem and you intend to buy the pressure test flow test kit anyway to evaluate the system further. I would imagine you could also, if necessary, use the connection to relieve the pressure after testing by removing partially until pressure is released. I do have a 2011 RZR with EFI and Ill need to sort that one out when the time comes. When I do Ill make a video. I know that doesn't help you now but after searching a bit I really wasnt able to come up with anything to refer you to. Hope this helps. Thanks again for your support, feedback,and questions. Let me/us know how it goes.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thanks for your input. This is a machine that has been sitting for years so I am going through it and not sure if anything is an issue. I don't want to attempt to start it at this point until I go through the fuel system and cooling system etc. I can try to relieve pressure using a screw driver and see if that works. I just emptied the gas tank and the fuel was separated and gunk in the bottom. I have to figure out how to address this as I understand the fuel pump comes integrated with the tank and is $800 to replace. The filter was just one item I want to replace before even attempting to start it.
@@BoneReaperz Yah with that info I think you're assumption about the system being well contaminated would be correct. But likely already a done deal throughout. Especially and likely when ethanol gas is involved. The goal would be to drain it all and flush as best you can. Once you relieve the pressure. Ive come across info regarding the pump and tank comb also. Unfortunate. One more thing. You're likely aware of it, but for anyone else reading. The majority of these bad fuel related things can be avoided by treating your fuel with Stabil or similar. Ive actually gotten in the habit of always treating my fuel every time I fill a gas can. That way, its always treated, and if I don't use it all, its good. Or any fuel left in the machine or other equipment is treated and already circulating in the system. So if I park it and don't get back to it as soon as I planned, its always good. Yes it costs a little extra for the bottle but well worth it cheap insurance. Anyway. It sounds like your on the right path. Thanks again for the questions and support.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yeah it was my parents ATV they used a bit on the farm and then parked it. I didn't even know they had it until I told them I was going to buy one, they said don't we have one lol. Of course they are much older now (80's/90's) and just let it sit with gas in it :(. I don't know much about this and learning as I go. I hope with the rest of the fuel system being fuel injected that there won't be gas left in the lines or gunked up. May have to get into the entire fuel system. Thank goodness for CZcams and folks like yourself sharing the knowledge!
@@BoneReaperz Well hopefully it' just fires up for you when you're ready to try. Fresh gas and battery can work wonders.
Hey Eric. So I have a 97 sportsman 500. It will start with the pull start but not with the push button. Also no lights. Winch will not work. Replaced the starter and battery still no luck. Should I change the voltage regulator? Any tips and knowledge would be appreciated. Thy
Sorry for the delay was out today. Hmmm. I have a similar scenario with one as well but Im confident it's my battery. That was my first thought about yours until I read further and you had replaced that already. The first thing I would do and you likely have is check all the connections and wiring. Trace and inspect. Is your new battery charging? One of the symptoms of a bad VR. Also it can cause your headlights too dim and brighten with throttle. With a bad VR they can even burn out. Check your bulbs. Which you indicated yours don't work. But check if there just not working or burned out. The push start button Im not sure about. I'll have to look into that. But seems pos. A VR is cheap and simple to swap. Since you've done much of the rest of the more expensive stuff already. I think If I were in your shoes and nothing else revealed itself when inspecting connections and condition of wires and such. I'd explore the VR option as well probably. Let me know what happens. Also if you need there is a link in the video description for the VR on mine but it will get you where you need to be if yours is different. Just check the number on it as demonstrated in the video.
Thanks for getting back with me on this. I will chase wires again. Could’ve missed something. I did talk to a fella and he suggested coil pick up and or stator could be bad. I watched the videos on that and it looks fairly easy. I will get back to you after I run through these next couple of steps.
Thanks again for the great videos they help a bunch.
@@mikesullivan3888 Id love to hear what solves the problem. And anything you've learned along the way. Helpful for readers/viewers as well.
So after chasing wires and checking connections I found that the starter relay had a hairline crack in it. Replaced with a new one and bam starts like a champ.
Still having issues with no lights working on this machine. Changing VR this weekend. I’ll keep you updated.
@@mikesullivan3888 Well good deal. Some things symptomatically make you go, oh it has to be this. But electrical stuff takes investigation.And a bit more effort sometimes. Just the nature of it. Usually reveals itself and many times will make you scratch your head and, say really that? Huh. But its better than paying a shop a ton in labor to dig and try and maybe try again. Plus you learn a ton about your machine and things start to make a lot more sense. The more you do.
I have a 99 sportsman 500 ( appears to be identical to the one you demonstrate on) I have no headlights or tail lights I have a brake light and dash light it starts and runs great I don’t think the fan is working but I have not checked for sure. I was told there are no fuses .
Also, the battery is new and the bulbs are ok. I enjoy listening to you
I will try to give you some options to start with. Sounds like you checked the bulbs. On another source or? Battery is good. Electric start work? I would start with, and it can be time consuming but it really also helps you get familiar with the machine. And that's never bad. Id start by tracing all the applicable wiring. From source to problem lights. Or light to source. Check all connections. For tightness, corrosion, or anything that looks suspect. Im not aware of any fuses.Ill double check that though. Your fan. You can isolate that by bypassing by unplugging and jumping. That way you can at least know if it works or not and if it does focus on other areas. I have a video czcams.com/video/nruOJ0cE51o/video.html "Polaris Coolant Change & MUCH MORE. Overheating Issues Troubleshooting." That shows how to do that. I hope that helps.
I have no lights, is there a fuse somewhere ?
Depends on the year make and model I'd have to say. If it's the same as the one in the video. A bad voltage regulator can contribute to that certainly. Poor regulation can cause a surge and blow them out. Im assuming you've confirmed the bulbs are in fact good or bad? The voltage reg has a rectifier that converts ac to dc. And if it's not doing its job and it's putting out too much say like 17volts or more that's more than some components can handle. While it's charging the battery that excess voltage/power has to go some where and can result in blown headlights/lights. The first thing I usually do, after checking the bulbs of course, is start by tracing all the wires and connections. Never hurts. Well maybe a little cuz it does eat up some time. But never a bad idea. You're more often than not likely to stumble onto something along the way that it wouldn't hurt to address related or not. And you get familiar with it all and can eliminate some trouble shooting later if something else comes up and you know you've addressed or observed something. But check the bulbs. If there blown. If you're handy with a volt or multi meter. See what the voltage is coming out to the battery. If it's up, and the bulbs are blown, that's probably the issue. If it's good. and bulbs are good, dig further into the wiring and see if there are any issues that need attention. Perhaps there is an inline fuse or something Im not aware of that has been installed. Previous owner or who knows. Folks get all kinds of creative on older stuff to solve issues or bypass tuff etc. So Im just trying to cover the basic stuff I'd address on an untampered with set up. Hope that helps.
Hello, can you please make a video of the wiring on this?
What is it specifically your trying to sort out?
@@ericinalaska7648 I need the wiring off of one of these for my 2000 Polaris sportsman 500 and I can’t seem to find any videos or pictures of the wiring
@@drakekeith5607 Just the general wiring or something specific? I don't have a plan to do a video I would think soon enough to be helpful to you I would think. I will certainly consider it though for future stuff. But Id recommend getting an owners manual for sure. I try to get my hands on one for anything I have. They're not that expensive really. If you look at the video description there should be a link for one. And if it doesn't cover your year. I looked this up real quick. Heres the link. Plus I think it may be downloadable. Not sure. This one seems a bit more that Ive seen. About $35 amzn.to/3I9NiJN
@@ericinalaska7648 thank you 🙏
I've been having an issue with my 2001 Sportsman 400.... it dies out when it gets wet. I mean not when underwater or blasting through water, it happens when just trail riding and driving through a small puddle even at low speed. It won't take the gas and starts to die. Sometimes I can save it by feathering the throttle but most time it will die. It will start right up again every time, and on dry trails I'm good. Get it wet and it dies. I've checked as many connections as I can find. All looks good. I'm stumped. I was thinking regulator or connection to it is getting wet. I've read and searched online a little but can't find anyone with a similar issue. Definitely not spark plug or plug wire related as it happens in water that isn't coming anywhere near those. Very odd issue apparently.
Hey there. If water wasn't I factor Id jump right to a fuel filter. So I googled "what would cause an atv to die when it gets wet" My first instinct was electrical being interrupted within the ignition system. But when I search as above I found many options along with symptoms etc. I don't know if its any different than what you've found. But give it a try. There were quite a few results and perhaps some of the options will more accurately describe your scenario and you'll have an aha! moment. Let me know what you learn.
@Eric in Alaska I've read literally dozens of posts on forums all over the internet and haven't really found anything that points to an answer. I will try the fuel filter though. Certainly can't hurt. I've checked and/or cleaned up every electrical connection I can find. I have been thinking about the voltage regulator but don't have any symptoms of that issue, other than the stalling out part. Battery is charging nice. The machine starts easy even after weeks (even a couple of months recently!) left untouched. I have been thinking as well that it might be related to the reverse gear rev limiter. Seems like the bike sounds the same when it goes to die, as when you engage reverse and then gas it. Like the bike struggles somehow. Might be a bad connection in that circuit somewhere.
@@Fourandaquarter Yah frustrating one it sounds like. I'd be curious to see what you learn. Its hard to speculate without hands on it.
Up to 2002
Meaning that particular part # or ?