Video

I always recommend a pre purchase inspection from a mechanic you trust and make sure you’re keeping up on basic maintenance. If you really want to be safe get the engine compression tested before you buy it and the rest of the /most/ isn’t to bad to replace with a CZcams tutorial and a little motivation

🤣🤣

I believe it, I remember this taking much longer than it should have🤣

That’s a fact…a few of these things you don’t have to do

Speaking from experience of owning both, my vq has gone down 1 time in 8 years I love that thing 🤣

@@AlteredAutomotive vq such a solid platform literally only issue i had was the control arm was extremely worn out and broke on me on the freeway. and yeah bro i crashed

Unfortunately yes

Same shit different toilet 😭 I always loved those s4s

Proper maintenance goes a long way!

N54

Anime pfp, no videos on your channel, bog monster confirmed.

N54 life 😭

I read both of your comments and I highly appreciate the insight, I am doing an oil change again soon which will tell all. I just changed it 3-4k miles ago and nothing was giving me any red flags about coolant mixing with the oil, so I am hoping the smoke is due to carbon build up (78k miles never cleaned ports) so I am going to do a compression test and walnut blast soon, if that doesn’t fix the issue the motor will be coming out within the next 6-12 months and I am going to replace everything and probably go big single 😅

@@AlteredAutomotive Yeah that may do the trick. Hopefully so! I'm in a fight now trying to diagnose a damn mixture control fuel -air mixture too lean code I keep getting back. Either fuel injectors are failing or HPFP, or believe it or not a bad battery will throw a lean condition code in these cars due to the battery not good enough to send the proper fuel to the injectors and or fuel pump. My battery is real suspect too. Checked on the scanner and it says the battery hasn't been changed since 93k k so that's around 57k miles, and I bought the car with 92k on it so that hasn't been changed in a real long time.

@@BamaTony73what lean code were you getting? Currently getting a 29E0 code on my 2009 535i. Comes on after 40 or so miles. I’ve changed the coils, plugs, al 4 O2 sensors, and had it walnut blasted. All O2 readings and fuel #’s read fine. No misfire or rough idle either. Don’t know where to go from here cause every time I reset the light and drive it for a bit it comes back on, same code - 29E0 Mixture Control

@@doc.g7 I'm getting the 2BCO "Mixture Control fuel-air mixture too lean" I have a HPFP on the way so hoping that fixes it, if not then it could be my Low Pressure Fuel Pump on it's last leg. If that's not it then injectors are failing. I just don't want to throw parts at the car that I don't necessarily need at the moment, but I don't know the history on the fuel pumps they could be getting old, along with injectors. If you've checked all of that and also your fuel rail pressure sensor is good to go then check HPFP wiring to make sure it's good, then spray out sensors with mass air flow cleaner, also pull your sensors and test them with multimeter to see what kind of reading you're getting. If you've done all that and still getting a lean code then believe it or not it could very well be your battery going out and losing it's charge a lot faster and not supplying the fuel pumps with the adequate fuel they need. Yep a bad battery can indeed throw lean codes. You don't want to drive the vehicle getting lean codes cause your engine temp can jump way up there before you know what's going on and destroy the engine. If you can't touch the bottom trim around the cylinder head for more than several seconds it's getting way too hot. Touch the oil cooler as well, it shouldn't be getting extremely hot to the touch, HPFP also. Hope this helps

@@doc.g7 What sucks about a lean code in these kind of cars is it can straight up destroy your engine if the person drives the vehicle with said codes. That's why mine is sitting in the yard until this HPFP arrives and I can throw that on and see what is going on with it. Lean codes can be VERY VERY hard to detect on these cars unless you just get lucky outta the gate and jump right on the problem. Most of the time it's a fuel issue more so than air. Make sure You've checked your turbo pipes to see if one didn't pop out. Most of the time that will be like a power management code or something close to that. So yeah more times than not it's a bad fuel pump one or the other or both or injectors failing and not spraying when they're supposed to be delivering the proper amount of fuel. Unhook your battery and then wait about 5 minutes then hook the negative terminal back up and if you hear a slight buzz under the passenger back seat then your low pressure fuel pump is doing it's job and the battery is to. If you don't hear it then the pump or battery most likely is going out. It's just a laundry list of things to try to diagnose the issue. Hope you find yours sooner than later. Just don't drive the car until you do if you care anything about it.

Thanks man💪

Tbh I never heard of those being common issues until I made this video

Rod bearings aren’t really common unless the oil change history is dodgy. Crank hub can spin but unlikely at power levels most will achieve

Too many issues I would straight trade for a rusted e36 with no engine

😅😅

I’m considering selling it for the second time in less than a year

Not enough damage

but really why is your wheel like that? did you do your control arms recently ?

I appreciate it bro!! It started when I did my DPs, I’ve replaced the front shock&struts, steering shaft and multiple alignments only positive is it used to slip both ways now it’s only to the left. Control arms are on the list🫡

HOW COULD I FORGER ABOUT THE INJECTORS THAT ARE CHEAPER THAN THE WHOLE ENGINE😩😩

Yo throwback 👀

they r boats now!?!?!?!!?

The B in bmw stands for Boat didn’t you know?

Thanks for the engagement have a nice day🫡😎

There are all also 10 plus years old pushing a respectable amount of horsepower, stfu

The car is reliable. This is showing maintenance cost lol😂. Some of the components are common for any car that’s 10+ years old

@@watsonanthony8438this the biggest lie I’ve seen

Damn that actually doesn’t sound too bad for an engine out service 👀

@@AlteredAutomotive The mechanic here in cyprus wanted 600 euro to take the engine out plus extra bits like valve cover gasket, oil pan gaskets that is extra labour all in with waste gate rattle Vargas stuff 1700 euro for mechanic bill. I bought all the parts from all over the world lol must have spent 1k in delivery charges . when you live on a small island this is the pain . But i cant fkin wait 1 week away from having her back lol

I appreciate the comment bro💪

Thank you!

Yes

What plastic piece did you replace for air/fuel mixture? I’m having mixture codes and just replaced the pcv but it didn’t do the trick

@@AlteredAutomotive not pcv, it might have been the air fuel ratio oxygen sensor but can’t remember for sure.

@@RE4L72 O2 is not plastic.. the PCV just recirculates spent gasses and pressure from the crankcase, so in a way it contributes to A/F mixture.. the PCV is plastic and monitored electrically.

@@exiteternium yeh no shit. I had a piece replaced that controls to air fuel mixture but can't remember how it looked or the name, might have been a sensor.

Definitely man! I’m out on Woodward a decent amount during the summers🤝

Well said!