Chasing Mixture & Vacuum Codes on The BMW 335i
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- čas přidán 3. 02. 2024
- The 335i is starting to throw fault codes again as well as getting an occasional service engine light. Today I try to fix that but learn more about the codes as I inspect the data logs further. It is my goal to get this car running near perfect by the summer, so if you enjoyed the video be sure to leave a like and consider subscribing!
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I’m not sure if you’ve already fixed your mixture codes, but I chased dme mixture control 2 for a good while, my bank 2 was running lean. Similar to what your having. Check your injectors!! Your flow rates could be off, but more than likely it’s your injector seals on 4,5,6. Causing the extra air to enter your combustion. Injector Seals are cheap, easy to change. But make sure your compress them tight before real installing back into your engine. If that doesn’t fix the issue, you may have some clogged injectors on your bank 2. Hope this helps you out.
I appreciate the comment I’ll have to look into this!
I feel your pain gang.
N54 life 😭
pull plugs check for leaky injector, do a oil change usually mixture codes happended to me when my plugs started failing or there were a little oil inbetween coil packs connecting possibly affecting spark and it was 02 sensor codes on a brand new sensor aswell with the mixtures and after changing my plugs it fixed everything
I did my plugs back in April/may and I’ve checked them a few times this year they’ve been dry every time + just did my oil a few hundred miles ago and it seemed normal! I’m hoping it’s not injectors tho 😅💸💸💸
@@AlteredAutomotive mixture codes could also be afr related check you 02 sensor live data. usually if injectors arent leaking they could have terrible spray patterns from being clogged causing bad ignition making the dme think it needs to compensate for those cylinders and adds more fuel hence mixture codes. if i were you id pulll all my injectors out and check spray pattern while theyre still attatched to fuel rails outside the motor and leave them out over night to check for leaks.
Not a bad idea tbh I’m hoping to hit the lottery soon so I can get index 12s and sleep well at night 🤣
For the 02 sensor what are the values I should be within?
@@AlteredAutomotive around 14-15 cruising both banks and you dont have 12s? thats your issue right there boss
@@e92erik I'll get them soon hopefully, I figure that is a better option than spending any money trying to prolong the index 7s and 8s that are in my car
Not sure if you've figured out the issues with her, but if my suspicions are correct and the car does indeed have a blown head gasket, DO NOT let that discourage you from pulling the head on it and ordering up some new Elring head bolts for her, and new genuine BMW head gasket on FCP EURO and simply doing the job yourself when you get the extra money and time to do so. If you are stupid about it like I was and continue to drive it then you'll be doing much more work to it than replacing the head gasket. I had to remove the block and tig weld it and the dude did a great job on the weld repair and he also rehoned the cylinder walls ( there's only 1mm of iron coating spray on the cylinder walls so a light hone for new piston rings is completely fine. Get a machine shop to do that work there though cause it's not expensive at all. I got my block welded and he honed it and resurfaced the cylinder head... everything $350. If if only quit driving it and removed all the hoses and the damn engine parts I wouldn't have to do much of anything except pull the head, resurface it, new head bolts and put her back together. But nooo I drive the damn thing until it catastrophically fails. Keep the car, rebuild it as I did, new valve stem seals are extremely important as well. New rings, new head gasket etc. I figured hell I got this much in the car, I might as well make it like new so then at least you'll know the history on all of the parts, and know exactly how to do anything on that car. Knowing your car and how to work on it is crucial to us BMW owners. They're awesome cars if you maintenance them properly. Anyway figured I'd share that with you because your car is nice and if you do what I've mentioned and don't take it to the race track it'll last you a very long time. ✌️
I read both of your comments and I highly appreciate the insight, I am doing an oil change again soon which will tell all. I just changed it 3-4k miles ago and nothing was giving me any red flags about coolant mixing with the oil, so I am hoping the smoke is due to carbon build up (78k miles never cleaned ports) so I am going to do a compression test and walnut blast soon, if that doesn’t fix the issue the motor will be coming out within the next 6-12 months and I am going to replace everything and probably go big single 😅
@@AlteredAutomotive Yeah that may do the trick. Hopefully so! I'm in a fight now trying to diagnose a damn mixture control fuel -air mixture too lean code I keep getting back. Either fuel injectors are failing or HPFP, or believe it or not a bad battery will throw a lean condition code in these cars due to the battery not good enough to send the proper fuel to the injectors and or fuel pump. My battery is real suspect too. Checked on the scanner and it says the battery hasn't been changed since 93k k so that's around 57k miles, and I bought the car with 92k on it so that hasn't been changed in a real long time.
@@BamaTony73what lean code were you getting? Currently getting a 29E0 code on my 2009 535i. Comes on after 40 or so miles. I’ve changed the coils, plugs, al 4 O2 sensors, and had it walnut blasted. All O2 readings and fuel #’s read fine. No misfire or rough idle either. Don’t know where to go from here cause every time I reset the light and drive it for a bit it comes back on, same code - 29E0 Mixture Control
@@doc.g7 I'm getting the 2BCO "Mixture Control fuel-air mixture too lean" I have a HPFP on the way so hoping that fixes it, if not then it could be my Low Pressure Fuel Pump on it's last leg. If that's not it then injectors are failing. I just don't want to throw parts at the car that I don't necessarily need at the moment, but I don't know the history on the fuel pumps they could be getting old, along with injectors. If you've checked all of that and also your fuel rail pressure sensor is good to go then check HPFP wiring to make sure it's good, then spray out sensors with mass air flow cleaner, also pull your sensors and test them with multimeter to see what kind of reading you're getting. If you've done all that and still getting a lean code then believe it or not it could very well be your battery going out and losing it's charge a lot faster and not supplying the fuel pumps with the adequate fuel they need. Yep a bad battery can indeed throw lean codes. You don't want to drive the vehicle getting lean codes cause your engine temp can jump way up there before you know what's going on and destroy the engine. If you can't touch the bottom trim around the cylinder head for more than several seconds it's getting way too hot. Touch the oil cooler as well, it shouldn't be getting extremely hot to the touch, HPFP also. Hope this helps
@@doc.g7 What sucks about a lean code in these kind of cars is it can straight up destroy your engine if the person drives the vehicle with said codes. That's why mine is sitting in the yard until this HPFP arrives and I can throw that on and see what is going on with it. Lean codes can be VERY VERY hard to detect on these cars unless you just get lucky outta the gate and jump right on the problem. Most of the time it's a fuel issue more so than air. Make sure You've checked your turbo pipes to see if one didn't pop out. Most of the time that will be like a power management code or something close to that. So yeah more times than not it's a bad fuel pump one or the other or both or injectors failing and not spraying when they're supposed to be delivering the proper amount of fuel. Unhook your battery and then wait about 5 minutes then hook the negative terminal back up and if you hear a slight buzz under the passenger back seat then your low pressure fuel pump is doing it's job and the battery is to. If you don't hear it then the pump or battery most likely is going out. It's just a laundry list of things to try to diagnose the issue. Hope you find yours sooner than later. Just don't drive the car until you do if you care anything about it.
Have you found the problem? I'm experienced working on cars and mostly European vehicles, and from what I've noticed by sitting on the sidelines observing is (hoping you don't) but really appears the car has a blown head gasket in it. I'm working on an X1 that had some of the same issues, excessive white smoke only on start up in the mornings or whatever, then it cleared up once you started driving it, then mysteriously disappearing coolant with no signs of leakage anywhere under the car or on hoses. Then one day driving along wnet into limp mode and failed and I had to call a wrecker to tow me. Once i tore it down and removed the cylinder head BAM there it was blown head gasket and a small piece of the block in between cylinders 1 and 2 had been cracked off or fell off or whatever. I got my block tig welded and got her all back together with mostly new parts but getting some lean code now so need to figure out what's up with that. Good luck!
Did you fix the issue?? Have you checked your o2 sensors by any chance?? If i remember correctly the 335i's ECU uses one of the o2 sensors to control Air & Fuel mixure at all times. I notice a lot of people overlook that about the o2 sensors. One of the reasons i have still have o2 sensors with my catless downpipes. The burble(pops) tune burns the o2 sensors out a lot faster. I turned the burbles off on mine for this reason and save a lot more gas
The car would be running too lean when it would normally run richer And vice versa. This spring im doing to a overhaul on the small things like that. Plan on upgrading to a big single turbo this year and built the motor next year
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