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Thanks 🙏

I used a few of these rated for 20a for a solar project, they would trip constantly just from the heat induced by the poor internal contact. Never even came close to 20 amps. went back to ANL fuses and DIN style breakers and haven't had issues with anything since.

I had a 100A version of this on my home power wall and replaced it with a different type due to it's "inaccurate" rating.

beware fake ads, Topdon TC004 Lite (ca£200) is only 160x120 pix IR sensor way too fuzzy for use on cct boards etc just a toy to look for heat loss around the house. The true gear is 256x192 as per Julian model - different ball game at £300 YGWYPF

Interesting to see the inside. And you explain very good why it is a DC breaker and not an AC breaker..

What camera do you use?

Instead of heating it up, you should have tested it with actual electric current to see if it will disconects at that rate.

I too highly recommend that you don’t use it. I hear so many complaints about them and have met several faulty ones. They tend to nuisance trip in hot weather and the contacts go high resistance which causes heat, and the cable connections can get hot and make it trip early.

looks chinesium quality

Breaking DC is a lot harder than AC, I can see the little red leaver moving into a sustained arc and just melting. For breaking high current DC I would use a contactor designed for it and possibly one with magnetic arc suppression to blow out the arc.

I suspect that the "little flag" is used for arc suppression. What is maximum rated voltage for this device? I'll bet that, when used at its max rating, it won't last long if it operates very often.

Can't see that small contact area taking 30A or anywhere close to it - stick it across a car battery and see what happens :)

No good. A breaker should disconnect FAST and have an arc arrestor. Not safe for use!

I used one of these on my solar and I caught it smoking away. Never again.

I had the higher rated one in my caravan connected to an inverter and like many others are saying, saw a comment to say they are unreliable, so changed it. Please give it a test Julian.

does this ... slowly open?? if so this is absolutely terrible for DC breaking.. if you have any inductive loads at all in a DC system and break the contacts slowly like the button suggests,, this will cause an arc and this thing is going to catch fire. i advide againsdt this. use a safe one which is spring loaded

£400 loads a money Jooles, did you pay for it, was it a freebie?

I prefer to see it work with amps as stated not heat

You don't need a fuse on the panel cables.

I don’t think I’d trust a circuit breaker from AliExpress

Nice tear down. What voltage are the breakers rated for?

This type of circuit breaker is proven to be very unreliable and dangerous. I advise to use a decent DIN rail type DC breaker.

Does it actually trip at ~30A? Many cheap Chinesium fuses and breakers are wildly off

I recommend you give it some tests before you install this in your shed. I saw some videos showing they were not safe to use. You can get DC fuses that look like the ones you have in the UK Mains consumer units. I have seen videos of those catching fire if you draw current the wrong way through it and flip the disconnect switch. Please don't set fire to your Shed! :-)

Neat breaker.

Your camera focuses by maximizing image high spatial frequency content. Try using a featureless background to help it focus on a small object in your hand.

chinese made junk. They deliberately do this to rip off consumers to keep buying more of their made junk. And it continues yet today , even worse. When they say water proof DO NOT BELIEVE ONE BIT. any solar made statues and light turn to rusted junk in less than a year..

Does this test all data wires in the cables?

Woah, this is the coolest and most feature rich USB tester I've seen. Not only good for testing voltages but would be very handy for sorting out my USB cables too. Love your channel mate!

Alfa Rpar has AS3080 plus AS13704 quads minus the output Darlingtons.

@11:00 That is what I wanted to see. That welds very strong. I have a bigger unit that plugs into the wall and it isn't as good as this. Ali Express, here I come!! And it's only $30!

Hi Julian: Thanks, Happy Sunday Man, And I’ve Got “ I’m At Louise Borgeoise : Peeling A Satsuma “❤

You should be able to use a few diodes on each boost converter output to combine the outputs and yet keeping the boost converters from seeing each other because one see the other it’s reacting to your adjustments on the other one so if you put two steering dies on each boost converter one for negative and one for positive on each boost converter, you bring a negative together and you bring the positives together this might resolve your problem. I used to do this when looking at two different outputs across the single trace scope to see two traces simple way to cheat and neither power supplies saw each other and that’s when I figure out I could bring two power supplies together without affecting one of the other, and have a total combined output

The Atorch set system is a bit mickey mouse, takes a while to make it work for you. Alright once set up for a batch of batteries say , 100's on a test bench, but only 450W for all that faff and $$$$. I made up a bucket of water and some nichrome wire to do a 50A test on a 25v lipo bank, much cheaper $ and I wanted to watch temp rise over 15-30mins and check all over the bank for hot spots

this is the only tutorial that worked for me 7 years later, thanks

This is very interesting and exactly deals with the issue that I am having. I am looking for an 8-volt charge controller. I have a one-watt hour pump that I want to power with an 8 volt Li battery and charge with an 8 volt panel. I have been unable to find an 8 volt charge controller with a load output. Do you happen to know where or how I could acquire this? Thank you

BTW how would you measure cable resistance of a USB-C <---> USB-C cable? Or USB-A <---> USB-A? Not possible without some adapter, right? (which has an unknown resistance of its own)

Great device, just got one. That white power bank looks like it's got a bad filter capacitor in its circuit. I wouldn't use it. Shows you the kind of useful information you can get from this device!

A long time ago, I created a dc-dc converting using a lm2576 (I think) when they just came out to power wireless equipment. Since I had a lot of them I tried to use multiple in parallel and it was a complete fail. I didn't have current limits on them, so there was really no chance, one does all until it blows up. lol This was when I was an electronics newbie, so I learned something from this experiment. What I looked into was using the chip to drive an external mosfet and bigger coil to get more power, and I determined I should just buy a different chip that was designed to do that instead of the lm2576, as the control chips particularly now are a small part of the cost. As you mentioned, the '1200' watt units sold are really not even close to that rating. I want to use a 12v battery and generate 36v to run a e-bike or other things, like large displays or spotlights with leds in series and they won't really do it.

This is the SAME software for the 100 Balance BMS... so they are double-dipping using 1 piece of software for both the Smart BMS and the Balancer. I've had very bad results with the Smart Balance BMS so I returned 3 of them because they just don't work. It let one of my EVE cells overcharge, it just plain didn't balance when it needed to. Can't use them... too unreliable.

You could cut off the euro plug and fit a three pin plug.

to bad thyt the tuya mcu doesnt send info about all of the info that a shown on the display. especially the reverse power is missing imho. same is with the dts238-7 (3 pahse version), where also just overall statistics are available and not for every phase. :-(

Brilliant education.Thank you so much

The smallest breadboard

They are £19.99, now back in the middle of Lidl, along with the fluorescent bikinis and arc welders 😂.

I got 90w to work type c 28v 5A with 140w type c cord and anker737 powerbank that outputs 140w max on one c port heats up so fast it only reads a little over 100w for 3 seconds on the power bank then dives back down to 2w to keep it stable

I already did that directly does my battery not working anymore

trash, utter trash and you will never know if you get grade A or grade B units until you test them... too much variables to even bother with.

Absolute waste of money. Using such a big flying polymer caps it should balance your supercap battery in seconds, which we obviously didn't see. The working active balancer must well... keep the battery balanced.

The charging is slowed by the relatively high internal resistance of the NiMh and secondly by the low conductivity stainless steel wires of the spiral springs and the internal resistance of the capacitor. Then those other things you mentioned.