I bought Two of these a while ago. Very useful. The most annoying thing is the length of time it takes to zero the timer. I use mine to time how long it takes to charge and discharge a battery to work out its capacity. I am recycling old LapTop cells by putting them in holders to make up 12v packs of about 24 AH. BMS and active balancers ETC.
It will be tested up to 10A when it's hooked up to my 325W solar panel. I was a bit concerned about putting 20A through that surface mount resistor, but power in the resistor would be 20A * 20A * 0.002ohms. That's 0.8 Watts which is probably OK. The connector is marked XL128 - 300V - 10A. Always a good idea to de-rate this sort of device.
Did you test the linearity of the meter? It's less of a problem if there is a small consistent difference over the whole range, but if it gets progressively bigger at higher measurements... 😬
Since these things almost always come with micro controllers, I wish they'd have an UART breakout as standard for configuring, and perhaps even logging. Then your shed could have an RS-485 network! Incidentally that sign is quite poetic on these rainy days that is the British winter.
Hi Julian! I wish I had half your expertise in electronics. I'm trying to build a couple of power supplies and I'm hesitant to start buying stuff only to find out I bought the wrong components. I want to build a 30vdc, 30a CC CV power supply that starts with 110vac. The second one will be a driver for my cryocooler. It will be a pure sine wave inverter that can do 0 to 35vac / 60hz at up to 10 amps. I may start with DC power for this one (from my solar/battery bank). So I'm considering both a mains and a DC power source for this one. I know I'll need a couple of Arduinos (which ones?), capacitors, inductors, mosfets, resistors, full bridge rectifiers, heat sinks, cooling fans. I'm going to encase them in clear acrylic which will look very nice. But which components and what's the best way to tinker with my components until I get it right? A breadboard, I guess? But I don't know the best way to assemble the final product. I did order one thing, so far, that I know I'll need - an oscilloscope! As for the Arduino programs, I'm a software developer so that shouldn't be too difficult but I'm just not very experienced with how PWM pulses translate to the output current I'm trying to achieve, or how the caps and inductor help, for that matter.
These are very inexpensive. May wait for future tests you post before grabbing some. I am curious of it's limits. Seems like it would be fine for just a 12v car battery tender circuit.
That Z3-20A looks like a poor replacement. Not sure how those terminals will take 20Amps. Very limited in the guage of wire you can use. I think the old one was better. How accurately is that Ryobi meter calibrated? I don't expect cheap devices to be accurate, but if your Ryobi is not calibrated, it very well could be inaccurate also, especially when you are worried about 100mV
I like that you share your thought process as you proceed.
I bought Two of these a while ago. Very useful. The most annoying thing is the length of time it takes to zero the timer.
I use mine to time how long it takes to charge and discharge a battery to work out its capacity.
I am recycling old LapTop cells by putting them in holders to make up 12v packs of about 24 AH. BMS and active balancers ETC.
Nice :)
It's the only device I could find that has a big bright display and is powered from the input (or output) supply.
Well, you should have test at least the 20A capability, because this junction terminal is designed for 5 or 7 A, if my memory serves.
It will be tested up to 10A when it's hooked up to my 325W solar panel.
I was a bit concerned about putting 20A through that surface mount resistor, but power in the resistor would be 20A * 20A * 0.002ohms. That's 0.8 Watts which is probably OK.
The connector is marked XL128 - 300V - 10A. Always a good idea to de-rate this sort of device.
Yes, a good rule is
"When it's China made only expect half its grade."
Thanks Julian, couldn't find them on ebay. 11/13/2023.
Did you test the linearity of the meter? It's less of a problem if there is a small consistent difference over the whole range, but if it gets progressively bigger at higher measurements... 😬
came across a e-paper powermeter on hackaday the other day, might be interesting as well
Since these things almost always come with micro controllers, I wish they'd have an UART breakout as standard for configuring, and perhaps even logging. Then your shed could have an RS-485 network! Incidentally that sign is quite poetic on these rainy days that is the British winter.
The extra 10 mah was perhaps being used my the watt meter to run it's functions. you need to put the multi meter between the bulb and the output.
10mA is about right for self-powering a board like that.
I thought he said he did
Hi Julian! I wish I had half your expertise in electronics. I'm trying to build a couple of power supplies and I'm hesitant to start buying stuff only to find out I bought the wrong components. I want to build a 30vdc, 30a CC CV power supply that starts with 110vac. The second one will be a driver for my cryocooler. It will be a pure sine wave inverter that can do 0 to 35vac / 60hz at up to 10 amps. I may start with DC power for this one (from my solar/battery bank). So I'm considering both a mains and a DC power source for this one. I know I'll need a couple of Arduinos (which ones?), capacitors, inductors, mosfets, resistors, full bridge rectifiers, heat sinks, cooling fans. I'm going to encase them in clear acrylic which will look very nice. But which components and what's the best way to tinker with my components until I get it right? A breadboard, I guess? But I don't know the best way to assemble the final product. I did order one thing, so far, that I know I'll need - an oscilloscope! As for the Arduino programs, I'm a software developer so that shouldn't be too difficult but I'm just not very experienced with how PWM pulses translate to the output current I'm trying to achieve, or how the caps and inductor help, for that matter.
Can you add the link to the video? Can't find from this seller and others are roughly double the price.
Out of interest, how much current does it draw from your battery (load) overnight / when the sun's not shining?
I measured 20mA part of which must be the LED backlight
You can also mount the back and then just clip it in
That is a good idea and also a neater install with no ugly brackets on show.
How do you get in for service afterwards?
Like you said it's nice looking.
Shame about the accuracy. 5 or 10A 😂
These are very inexpensive. May wait for future tests you post before grabbing some. I am curious of it's limits. Seems like it would be fine for just a 12v car battery tender circuit.
would you be kind to provide a link please.? i have looked everywhere and i couldn't find it . thanks
not this one, the one bolted down into the wood post please . thanks
It's no longer available.
This Tips! error came up on my battery teter as well. Ahve noi idea what it is.
9:15 your meter says total consumption which includes the 9mA of that thing itself.
Total integrated power system
I would make a Rain Water / Earth / moss (PV) / microbial fuel cell (hybrid) 24-7 Power
Even go up-to 500V DC
That Z3-20A looks like a poor replacement. Not sure how those terminals will take 20Amps. Very limited in the guage of wire you can use. I think the old one was better.
How accurately is that Ryobi meter calibrated? I don't expect cheap devices to be accurate, but if your Ryobi is not calibrated, it very well could be inaccurate also, especially when you are worried about 100mV
The more I look at it, the less I like it. But there's very little else available.
It says Tips! so that we press the "❤Thanks" button.
Not sure why I'm jealous of your multimeter but I am.
I like the bright display and that it runs for months on a 18650 cell.
@@JulianIlett Impossible to find one for sale secondhand!
Tip OR Trip
Tips! - It thinks it deserves money for working 24/7 giving you voltages. Pay it a tip...
I can't find the slot!
handy gadget! most of those things aren't accurate