I have that boost converter for capacity testing powerbanks. Boosting the 5v to 14v charging a big lifepo4 bank to recycle the otherwise wasted energy. The boost converter is able to work at low voltages because it has a tiny boost converter set at 8V to power the main control circuitry at really low input voltages.
Interesting thing. I was thinking about powering such a converter from a few miniature solar panels and use that to charge the car battery - would that actually work?
Have to nip out mid video, I take it LTO don't need a low voltage cut-off, I assuming the boost convertor will stop working at 2V, however it may still draw power/drain battery?
I just bought 3 of those for a similar use, I wants to test the current output on a few 100s use batteries but didnt want to waste the power so was thinking of boosting to 24v, I am in the process of modifying a 5 amps boost converter which will only work down to 7v to work to 2v, I'm testing LFP batteries
An addition for having this setup in a box where it just needs to work. In that context the caps may have leaked to a low voltage and flicking the switch on the front is a setup for blowing a fuse or worse. Suggest (and you likely didn't mention this due to time constraints) the output go through a resistance as with your light bulb, along with a switchable parallel low resistance path. Voltage comparator enables the low resistance pathway when the output voltage exceeds the input by the safety margin. I can think of a few use cases where an intermittent very large surge current is needed but doing this with batteries is too complicated . Clearly all this relates to the simple case of pushing a voltage up. I am still unclear how this device is supposed to work in its down regulating mode... the simple "equivalent" explanatory circuit left this as an exercise for the reader. Thanks for a well presented video.
Ah, this is a interesting little thing, i dug up this a few weeks ago from my pile of random stuff from aliexpress. exactly the same thing, and in my part its can be very floaty on the potentiometers , like a big latency . however i notice sometimes, if the current or voltage or both are stuck, i can fix it by restart , power it off and on again. don't know way, but it can be because what im doing is post-boosting something in a realm of household battery current. I assume you working with nothing lower than 2V, but if you ever do, there are some boosters on ali, that can work as low as 0.7V and boost it to a more manageable voltage. like boosting a single AA or multiply parallels into 3V, 3.3V. granted anything lower than 900mV is kinda hard to work with because of extremely low current.
I used the same boost converter to drive a cree LED from a single lifepo4 battery. My one had the little heatsink on it. Great for single battery builds.
Julian, you know that you have a serious audience, when nobody comments about your M12s...
"So I have a fuse to be protected by the diode".... I really trust fuses lol, so many mosfets have given their lives to protect a fuse....
I have that boost converter for capacity testing powerbanks. Boosting the 5v to 14v charging a big lifepo4 bank to recycle the otherwise wasted energy.
The boost converter is able to work at low voltages because it has a tiny boost converter set at 8V to power the main control circuitry at really low input voltages.
What a beautiful battery. Now why aren't UPS manufacturers producing kit with these in. All we have is those awful lead-acid cells.
It's also expensive._
Interesting thing. I was thinking about powering such a converter from a few miniature solar panels and use that to charge the car battery - would that actually work?
Have to nip out mid video, I take it LTO don't need a low voltage cut-off, I assuming the boost convertor will stop working at 2V, however it may still draw power/drain battery?
That's an interesting battery you have there! What is the final aim of doing with it (except for directly charging these super caps)?
Probably a light for my shed.
Where did you get this converter from?
Would a boost-buck configuration allow for safeguarding against over-current? If so, curious how the efficiency would be compared to just boost alone.
Yes, that would solve the problem, but I don't know of a buck-boost that works with an input voltage of 2V
It seems that a high current / low voltage boost converter would merit a big custom-wound ferrite, with REALLY thick wire. Maybe 14-16AWG.
I just bought 3 of those for a similar use, I wants to test the current output on a few 100s use batteries but didnt want to waste the power so was thinking of boosting to 24v, I am in the process of modifying a 5 amps boost converter which will only work down to 7v to work to 2v, I'm testing LFP batteries
If you don't wanna waste power put them in series
@@faded.0913 I need to know the current from each idividual batteries so I can match them. I already got an electronic load
ZK-S4 is buck converter as well though ? (buck-boost), so it will turn on and current limit on buck side. however correct me if I'm wrong...
No, it's a boost converter only.
have you looked into the 5252f
Need to get some Airpax circuit breakers with the 52 curve.
quality video as always, just cant get this stuff anywhere else, besides buying stuff ;)
An addition for having this setup in a box where it just needs to work. In that context the caps may have leaked to a low voltage and flicking the switch on the front is a setup for blowing a fuse or worse. Suggest (and you likely didn't mention this due to time constraints) the output go through a resistance as with your light bulb, along with a switchable parallel low resistance path. Voltage comparator enables the low resistance pathway when the output voltage exceeds the input by the safety margin. I can think of a few use cases where an intermittent very large surge current is needed but doing this with batteries is too complicated .
Clearly all this relates to the simple case of pushing a voltage up. I am still unclear how this device is supposed to work in its down regulating mode... the simple "equivalent" explanatory circuit left this as an exercise for the reader.
Thanks for a well presented video.
kinell, that LTO cell £65. no link for buying ? All a bit of a tease
Ah, this is a interesting little thing, i dug up this a few weeks ago from my pile of random stuff from aliexpress. exactly the same thing, and in my part its can be very floaty on the potentiometers , like a big latency . however i notice sometimes, if the current or voltage or both are stuck, i can fix it by restart , power it off and on again. don't know way, but it can be because what im doing is post-boosting something in a realm of household battery current.
I assume you working with nothing lower than 2V, but if you ever do, there are some boosters on ali, that can work as low as 0.7V and boost it to a more manageable voltage. like boosting a single AA or multiply parallels into 3V, 3.3V. granted anything lower than 900mV is kinda hard to work with because of extremely low current.
I used the same boost converter to drive a cree LED from a single lifepo4 battery. My one had the little heatsink on it. Great for single battery builds.
How much voltage/current do you use on output?
I used a 7070 LED running at 6 volts, 3 amps. @@Ale-bj7nd
I used an xhp70 led, 6v 3amps.@@Ale-bj7nd
Zero wosnames! :)
Ha ha, zero amps.
WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT UP LMAO
Used to love this channel. But nowadays it's endless ranting about something that could be explained in two minutes.
pointless comment, you don't have to watch.