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Hey Mike, love your videos! This one was a little more challenging to watch due to the auto focus re-adjusting frequently. Also, how are you going to distill a full lathe restore to just 30 seconds? I'm sure we all would have loved to see a full video on just that!

Whats suppose to be the difference between purple, blue, black colors?

A much simpler way of designing such a "sine wave" connection is to draw the sketch of the profile in the cross section and extrude it along a path of the connection, this way you only need two sketches instead of 5 or 6. That way you get a properly defined shape without that "flat" intersecting area in the big connection surface. Also you can draw this shape independently on the two parts which is great for reusability.

Hi i just want to ask what type of sofware you use to show bed leveling like that ?

Great topic, thanks

Even if the design itself is useless, the CAD technique alone makes this video an inspiration. Please make more videos with increased focus and attention to the CAD side. Can you show in more detail how you did the part at 8:25 where you split the body multiple times with the profile you created earlier?

Very interesting video as I was wondering about the ability of Chinese manufacturing for these on-demand custom parts. Also the costs seem very reasonable compared to what local shops charge you in Europe. I will certainly give it a try in my next designs. Thanks for this instructive video. Your content is of very high quality and much appreciated.

Can you please share the flow calibration test you used?

Hi, i'm looking for first 3d printer. What do you recommend between Qidi Q1 Pro, Creality K1 or K1C? I need high print quality and definition, easy to use, best user experience and customer service. Thank you

I love your videos!! Very thorough and interesting joints. Keep up the great content! At 5:21 you are showing the offset amount at .05 mm but only on the grey side of the joint. Is this offset done on the red side of the joint as well? Do you also fillet the outer corners/edges of the joint faces with .3 mm? Also, what size chamfer do you use on the outside edges of the whole part?

Just excellent work!

I guess there is no option to loosen connection between lead screw & sprocket and stepper motor & sprocket to simply turn the lead screw individually to get bed tramed?

Welp, another spineless youtuber who would do anything to take sponsor money.

This was a very interesting show. I'd suggest to make a video about the design process of prototyping in plastic and having the part made by a third party in metal. How you design the tolerances and any tips and tricks. That would be awesome.

With the bed mesh. Which in the front. Can’t find anything online that tells me which is the front

Your video has convinced me I need to add jlcpcb to my workflow. Their work looks gorgeous and the models I've uploaded to test are incredibly reasonably priced.

There's no way all of what you shown was 3D printed. The brass looks CNC. The same goes for the titanium rod

DO NOT BUY BLACK LINEAR RAILS! They coat them in a rust protective coating (Cold Bluing), yes. BUT what some suppliers do is they take OLD or USED rails and give them this coating to hide it. So you end up with not straight, or poorly coated rails. What you *should* do is buy normal steel rails that **aren't** black because protecting them from rust is not needed since they are already always coated in oil (which protects them), SO you can either keep up with lubrication (to protect the rails from rusting) or you can buy cold bluing solution and do it yourself - Birchwood Casey Super Blue - it is cheap and easy and anyone can do it. Just clean the part well, make sure there's no oil, rub the part in the solution. rinse and repeat (if necessary).

One way to screw up your work is to use philips. A better way is to use Torx.

I’d like to have you make me one of those collet chucks for my SB 9 do you have them available?

~0.35mm, #DipShit!

Awkward to use the drill, ok. But youre still gettin' it done. Nicely done. Very nicely done indeed. Ive got the first two. Gonna use the stripper tomorrow night. Thank you!

please do input shaping modeling before and after modifications. this is something i've been having trouble finding on all the online reviews/videos about E3 V3 SE/KE: we actually don't know the accel limit of this printer vs the advertised 8000 . it is always important to quantify objectively before and after changes are made and IS modelling allows fast and repeatable measurements without having to rely on subjective prints. my assumption is that all these modifications may not actually show improvements at stock settings but may prove their value at higher accel--meaning they unlock potential but you have to print faster to see it. regarding the 0.5mm droop at front right bed attachment, i have a feeling that the base of the printer on which the rails are attached may not be flat. it is after all also a stamped piece. i noticed you checked for parallelism of the rails in Z plane but not for parallelism to the Y plane. the front side of right rail may itself be 0.5mm lower than the rest of the rail plane. assuming a 150mm separation in the rails a 0.5mm droop is something like 0.2deg which is within precision thresholds of a cheap spirit level + eyeball and definitely detectible with a digital one. if the rails are misaligned in Y plane this will actually transfer flexing forces through the rail adapters/rail/rail carriage and into the stamped metal base. the base should flex the most but i think the printed adapters may also suffer from premature maintenance required. if the rails are misaligned in Y, the 0.5mm shim should be under the rail rather than above it.

yes to a frame please😁

Excellent video! Great details on how the parts came out and I like that you shared the costs. Everyone goofs here and there. Nice job fixing the minor goof on the collet chuck. 👍 FYI, put a board on the bed ways when swapping chucks. If you accidentally drop the chuck, it protects the bed ways and the chuck a bit. Some people get fancy with it, but it's just there for protection. It can be somewhat locked in place with the tailstock as well.

Excellent detailed review - subscribing

At 18:31 you are showing some of your black, I believe it was abs, Prince and it looks like you have some serious artifacts on the exterior walls. Vfa that is. Do you find that this machine when using glossy thermoplastic that you're constantly having a vfa issue?

👍😊

How amazing would it be if pcbway offered to machine the 3D printed parts to achieve better accuracy

Why would it be more strong with the waves? Rather than rectangular lapping overlap

Could you point to the bridging test you were using in the video, did not come across this one before ... thanks

You didn't add an affiliate link for the humidity monitors you are using. Govee is a pretty well known brand and you should get a little $$ if someone wants one. Little known fact, if someone clicks through on any of your Amazon affiliate links, ANYTHING they buy during from that initial click should be credited to you. 😃 I liked the information, good luck with the channel.

It makes no sense to me that make adjustments to allow for shrinkage on the wrench, how could you possibly know what, and how much to adjust? To me it would be pcbway that makes that adjustment, they are the ones to know what to expect

Can you show a before and after pieces?

I think they did fairly good on everything but as far as deformation goes they should be the ones who compensate for it. They are the ones who so this work everyday so it seems like they would have a better grasp on how much to adjust for it. It seemed like a good price for all you had done also.

wht 3D printer you use? is SLS?

Very well presented!

How is it not sponsored if you did not pay for the parts?

Keep the face plate, clean it and add some protective ceramic coating to protect it from further wear.

The angular and dimensional accuracy was surprisingly bad for a professional service if the plans were properly made.

nice tutorial, thank you. But if i extrude a ring and want to cut em with your method, i get a error and cant cut. First i was thinking it was my geometry, but if you extrude a simple ring and try to cut em the error occurs too. Hopefully you can help? ERROR: No intersection between target(s) and split tool.

when you have space, instead of heat-set, just do a hex hole for a nut on the backside, it's way easier ( if you're not making a slot to insert the nut from the side, just do 1 thread on a threaded rod or long screw to place it, and start to screw the actual screw in, then remove the placeholder). if you don't want visible nuts, you can add a cover

Why didn't you film the machining you did?

"Not sponsored, but I didn't pay" lol

how much did it cost to print the wrench?

So cool. Now I just gotta come up with something useful to design and order from them!

This is way more complex than the version just using two wedges and it requires purchased hardware. The simple version you showed uses only plastic you print yourself, it is brilliant. I now use it for light strong joints with no need to buy hardware. Thank you.

That lathe looks Amazing !!!

Wow! I think this is the best overview of PCBWay capabilities, especially in terms of metal parts, I have seen. Most results were very impressive, with minor exceptions being the flared wrench opening and the lack of ability to tap or machine the specific threads you needed. That collet chuck is crazy nice. Plus, I recently got quotes on a CNC aluminum part and PCBWay was one of the most affordable. $426 is so reasonable for all of that. So really, they seem like a solid option. It's sad we can't offer services like theirs for any kind of reasonable price in the USA. Would be great for our local businesses to have a lot more work like this. Still, really cool this is an option at all.

12:00 The "looseness" of the wrench is actually a blessing as you don't have to line it up exactly in order to get on the nut. Been there done that. Sso I can call you what my boss called me, overachiever!