The All NEW QIDI Q1 Pro - Affordable, High Performance and High Tem...?
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- čas přidán 19. 03. 2024
- If you're looking for a new printer, you might want to check out this video.
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I'm pretty picky when I agree to test a printer out, I've worked with Creality and Bambu, but I had heard good things about QIDI so I thought it was worth a closer look. They happened to have a brand new product that combines high speed printing with accuracy and... one more feature that even expensive printers don't have. That particular feature was going to be a pretty big benefit to me because of the types of parts I like to print.
I went into this test like I usually do, optimistic, and normally I end up finding a series of problems that cause me to have to make several more follow up videos. I didn't have that experience with this printer. Overall I was impressed. There were a few small things that could be improved, that's true for anything. I was impressed the most with the build-quality and the steel frame, but the parts look like they belong in a far more expensive printer.
I hope this video helped you and I hope that if you're in the market for a printer that you can get the best price. I don't know how many early-bird priced printers there are... hopefully enough for everyone that wants to buy a printer right away!
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#QIDI Q1 Pro
#QIDI Q1
#QIDI 3D Printer - Jak na to + styl
![[Vowel]물고기는 물에서 살아야 해🐟🤣Fish have to live in the water #funny](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3G9MH063Cx4/mqdefault.jpg)
The arrow on your finger is a cute but helpful touch! Love the videos
A far cry from my older videos, I had to cover my fingers because my nails were so bad. Now, they're just regular bad looking nails. Lots more pointing to come!
In the market for my first printer so happy to see you review one’s I haven’t considered.
For sure, this was a fun one to test out, it's definitely a solid contender. They get some credit for knowing where to focus their attention and resources to produce great results and keep the price in an affordable range.
I initially bought an x-plus 3 after sending back my crappy K1 to Creality. I was so pleased with my Qidi... 2 months later I bought an x-smart. Buy with confidence ;-)
This is the review I was looking for. Very thorough, thank you.
Nice! I'm glad it could help, it's still going strong, I've been printing lots of PC lately for an upgrade I have coming for this printer.
What an awesome review of a 3d printer. Way more in depth than just running a benchy! Covering a wide range of 3d printing materials as well as showing practical real world applications is simply exemplary work. I'd show this video to the other companies and tell them to send you their printers because you don't mess around. Super high value content. Sorry for the nonstop praise just was really taken by your comprehensive review. Excellent. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Michael! I have to resist the temptation to try and print Benchys and Toasters, they're good enough tests, but they're thrown away afterward and I'd prefer to make something that doesn't go into the trash and has a real function.
There's no question that this printer is a top-performer, I've continued to use it after the review because it opened up a whole bunch more possibilities thanks to the heated chamber and higher temp nozzle. I've only had one fail, and that was due to PETG accumulating on the bottom of the nozzle, it dropped onto the print and then the nozzle hit the big blob. Sometimes the blobs are small enough that it doesn't cause a problem, in this case it was pretty big and the force caused the buildplate to move out of position. PETG seems to be bad for this in general and I have the exact same issues on the Bambu X1C. I'm experimenting with different ideas to prevent the problem. It's really only an issue on prints which are longer than 5 hours, where the PETG has enough time to accumulate.
I'm glad I was able to test out this printer, and hopefully it helps people to make a decision if they're in the market.
I'll have more reviews coming, I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next, my hope is that we'll have multi-material capabilities, not just multi-color. Being able to print flexibles at the same time as stiffer materials would be pretty amazing.
Thanks for your very kind comment my friend!
Early comment in the video, perhaps you have used this in previous videos, if so I had not noticed, but I simply love the pointer on your index fingernail, excellent visual aid for this old man!
Thank you! I have a background in Home inspection and we're constantly pointing at things. I don't think I've used it in any recent videos. I think I may just need to create a thimble so I can not look like such a weirdo with arrows on my fingers when I go out :) Maybe something with yellow and black for a nice contrast? I guess I could also use a glove, but that's no fun.
I'll make sure to keep this style coming, and thanks for taking the time to write a comment I really appreciate it!
I agree, that was something I haven't seen before and thought it's really smart! :D
That was one of the best 3D printer reviews I've seen. Keep up the great work! I bought the QIDI X Smart3 about 2 months ago and have been extremely impressed with the brand, so much so that I just ordered this one through your link. I like to play with the higher temperature filaments and the extra features on this one, at this price point, seem fantastic.
Thank you, that's awesome! It seems that there is some real competition which is great for us and the more I print with the Q1, the more I like it. I took the sides and back panels off last night to see why the frame is so strong, and it just looks really well done, nothing too excessive, but just right. I've released a follow up video for the spool holder since it came out pretty far and it was a bit wobbly, which is strange since the rest of the machine is solid. I have a few more videos that I want to make with this printer to test the limits as well.
Seems like a good brand to stick with and though it's not 'vanilla' klipper, it's at least open and you can use whichever slicer you like right away without having to sign a waver about affecting the warranty etc.
Do you design your own parts mainly and what do you mainly print parts for?
I'm looking forward to what QIDI has coming next!
@@NeedItMakeIt Custom parts for automotive projects. Brackets, mounts, covers etc. I'm curious as to how many things that would normally be fabbed out of metal can actually be printed with some of these materials. Incorporating metal components into a print is also very interesting to me. Still just getting my feet wet at this point but I think there's some real potential here.
The most complete and objective review of that Q1 Pro. Great tutorial and especially impressive outputs. Thank you! You earn a new subscriber!
Awesome thank you very much! For this printer they made it pretty easy on me, it works out of the box, it prints really nice with hard prints, and they're real prints no just benchys or toasters, and yeah it's a bit bulky, but I can look past that if it performs well, and it does. Today I printed a nearly solid ABS print, with the finest fuzzy skin that I've ever tried thinking it would break the printer, and the print turned out flawless, one of the if not the nicest looking prints I've ever made.
They've obviously took the time to address the main points to create a high-performance printer at a good prince, the heated chamber puts it over the top. I think they should sell an add-on filtration system though, high-temp materials including ABS and PC release more chemicals into the air, I'm pretty sure that long-term exposure will lead to some sort of health impacts.
@@NeedItMakeItHealth hazard is an important point as you explained it so well. Few people mentioned it in filament 3D printing. It looks obvious when you deal with laser cutter just because people see the fumes... a bit childish IMHO.
I hate flattering but your channel deserves a much higher audience. It's informative, video editing and narrative are super consistent, video quality as well. There's a huge work behind.
Just ordered one with your link, nice review btw.
Thank you! I really appreciate it. I'm still going strong with some prints on this solid printer. I may have just done my cleanest print ever a few minutes ago.
Solid video, thanks for sharing your experience! =) Would love to see you go over this printer with your improved 3d printed parts, I really enjoy that from your channel!
Thanks! It's funny, normally I do a review and find lots of problems and then end up having to make several videos. I think with this printer there could be just one video, there really isn't much to adjust, the spool holder, maybe a little bit larger filter with a HEPA filter also integrated. Down the line I expect that people will want to pretty up the head, and maybe a different design for the cover could be done. Overall it's a solid contender and I think they did a goo job getting something to market that performs well and that's in a more affordable range.
@@NeedItMakeIt That approach sets you apart from the rest and I truly enjoy to watch! Sounds very promising for the QIDI Q1 Pro, but maybe a better build plate guide? Btw have you gotten your hands on the Flashforge ad5m pro?
I love this brand. I own two of them (X-smart 3 and X-plus 3). Far better than the K1 I had from Creality. Great review. Love your channel.
Nice! That's great feedback too. I'm happy I was able to test this one out, I had heard of them, but I think I was thrown off by the blocky looks. If you can get past it, they've really done well at taking care of the structure and making solid high-performance parts in order to give us good results. I'm very comfortable just sending anything to the Q1 and I know it'll turn out. I even adjusted the bed to 6mm out of level when it was off. I ran a print and it adjusted for it automatically, really nice to see that. I have another video coming this weekend for this printer as well!
@@NeedItMakeIt I still hate the 1984 Star Wars look of it 😁
About the problems of the red printed part. No higher cooling….lower the printspeed for the middle part. About the holes….variable layer height.
Ah, good tips, you know the variable LH is a good option that I don't use. I tested it back in my Ender 3 V2 days and haven't really used it since. Thanks for the pointers! The PETG-CF looks so good, but layer adhesion seems to be far worse than Basic PETG
i like little arrow on your finger :D great idea
Thank you, I thought it might be something fun to add and get a laugh or two.
I look forward to your Q1 pro upgrades especially a air filter one. I used your QIDI link when I bought mine a day ago (3-20-24) so I hope it gave you credit. The Q1 Pro is arriving sometime tomorrow (3-22-24) already.
The first of two videos I have planned is coming tomorrow, I'll probably make several more because the printer is so capable and it opens up a lot more possibilities for printing stronger parts.
Thanks for using the link I really appreciate it!
That's fast shipping, they were already loaded in the truck ready to go.
One more thing to add to a video, best way to remove and add filament. I seem to get a heatbreak clog and have to remove the heater assembly ( easy fortunately)to clear the piece of filament.
I’ve owned many direct drive printers but they all had a manual extruder gear release lever. Made it easy to heat the hotend, push on the filament and then quickly pull it out, nothing left behind.
Please do more videos on this printer. I need to find that link to make a donation when I send this post.
@@gr7396 I just released a video yesterday and I'll definintely have more to come, I'm still going strong with this printer. The only time I've had a problem with switching filaments was when I tried to use their process for unloading/loading filament and I was switching from PETG to TPU. It left too much material after the extruder gears and the TPU was not a fan of pushing PETG. I stopped using their process and I went to what other printers do, extruder a small amount and then retract the rest, works like a charm.
I've spoken with QIDI about this issue and they have passed the info along to their engineers, I hope to see a fix on their touchscreen. The Bambu performs better for material changes so maybe there is something to learn there from the Bambu printers that QIDI can apply as well.
I was told that you can manually pull the filament out, it is on a spring Afterall, so maybe it's possible. I will have to try this out to be sure.
They should have added a release lever so you can get a straight shot into and out of the hotend. I’m not new to printer mods and will think on it and try a few things. With the hotend cover easily removed to get to the extruder gear, that adds an advantage but there must be a simple solution or an extruder redesign?
FYI, I had trouble with PayPal taking my new CCard then it used another on file for $1+ $1 monthly. So I guess I’m a ASA member now or two pla members?
Keep on this Q1 Pro and QIDI and I/we will be good. Slicer info and print settings also a good thing to keep on.
Great review with usable practical prints! Thank you for not printing a benchy.
practical parts are great too but benchies produce a really good comparison since nearly every printer has posts about benchy results its good to use as a reference to your own machine or others
Good music choice did you produce them on your own? :P I wish you that you reach 100k subs earlier then end of the year! :))
Thanks for the good video. 2 questions/comments if I may:1) A comparison to other same level printers will be helpful . 2) How is Qidi's support? For example, Prusa has 24/7.
So far the best Q1 Pro review, thanks for sharing
Thank you so much! I try to print real parts that I really need and hopefully it isn't too boring, the review videos tend to be a bit long to make sure to cover everything important. If people l like reviews like this I can certainly do more. I usually find a bunch of problems with printers I test out and then end up making several videos to follow up, in this case, I think there is only the spool holder angle, and I have spoken to QIDI about it so hopefully they can adjust the design a little to make it just a bit more rigid or change the angle. I'll make a short video so anyone that needs it has an adapter they can print for the time being.
Thanks for the review. It looks like a great printer. I have a k1 and wish Creality would have done a bit more on the k1c. So I assume this printer will take a good chunk of their market share. I would like to see more videos on this printer. Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Thanks Andy! I'm still going strong with some super heavy prints today and very clean results, some of my best ever. I think they focused where they needed to and I agree that Creality is going to take a hit. The steel frame and beefy CF Nylon parts inside likely help, the extruder of course, it's a nice solid unit as well. That helical gear from the motor to extruder was a nice thing to see too, I wonder if they found that it helps with power transmission to get better print results.
You will see another video on this printer this weekend! I have some coming for the KE as well. So many projects and so little time! Maybe I need to invest in some kind of feed-tube for myself :) to save time making food.
@NeedItMakeIt lol. Yeah there is only so much time in a day. And I agree the helical cut gears are interesting for sure.
This literally is the most versatile machine in its price range. I'm going to buy one through your link.
I'm still going strong with it, printing everything that I can get my hands on. I can't tell if its the extruder that makes the most difference, or if it's the frame, but either way, I think they did a good job, and I'm happy that they brought this machine along, having the ability to print some higher temp materials opens up so many possibilities, I didn't realize that it was holding us back so much!
I just took the side and back panels off to see how they were able to make the frame so strong, and it looks like everything is just sized right and in the right places, not too much and not too little, nice engineering.
Thanks for using the link that helps the channel a lot!
BTW, I like your name, are you Carnivore?
Great review!I like the practical prints vs what others do in their reviews by printing figures and benchies and other useless trinkets. Your way is much more desirable because these are the types of things I want to print, functional things like jigs and brackets, etc. Definitely tempting to pick one up. I just wish they would have gone with a slightly larger build plate 256mm at minimum. It's kind of strange why they've released this one because the X-Plus 3 also has the same nozzle temp and heated chamber, but doesn't have a camera by default, it's also larger. Either way, I really like where Qidi is headed, if they keep improving like they are, they'll be sitting high up there soon!
You and I must think alike because it really hurts me inside to print little boats and toasters and know that they have no function aside from showing how they look. I've been printing more with the Q1 and it continues to perform well, even beyond what I would expect. ABS, no problem, PETG with the peaked holes, no problem, PC. I didn't bother with PLA since this printer is really meant for higher temp printing anyway.
I think they'll be coming out with a whole series of these printers, I can only assume they're already in the works. Q1 PRO-PLUS, Q1 MAX? The printer really hit the mark as far as giving people what they're looking for.
They probably were responding to feedback about the looks of their printer and make some other small design changes, the hotend for example, now they've moved to the Copper HS, which is pretty nice indeed.
We'll have to keep an eye on them for sure! I hope they come out with an IDEX or something to print just one more material. If I could print 2 color TPU, that would also be really cool.
@@NeedItMakeIt That would be pretty awesome!
Great video, but QIDI's website says full auto calibration. Is this a mistake on their website?
I've had an Ender 3 for a few years and have always been frustrated by the amount of work required to get good quality prints, as well as the upgrades needed for abrasives and/or challenging materials. The X1C took my eye when it was released but I couldn't really justify the cost, even the P1P was a little pricey and underwhelming, however this at £399 with the specs it has is an insane deal. This is the kind of thing that 3D printers should be, simple setup out of the box and the ability to send something to the printer and know it'll work. The future of the 3D printing landscape is looking really exciting.
Great video. I also have those exact clamps and could use the STLs. This printer looks really capable.
Sure thing! I wanted to create the larger versions as well, but I can post the files and give you the link in the next day or two. Do you have Yellow TPU? It would look so much better!
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you. I only have black TPU. I have never printed with TPU yet.
Great review! Any word if they are upgrading the larger build volume printer next? Idex would be great as well.
We're pretty sure that they'll have a lineup of this printer, small med large. My hope is that they'll also have some of those other options like Auto filament calibration and IDEX or something like an AMS, if even for just two materials. It'd be nice to be able to be able to print 2 colors of TPU.
How are you doing the filament change? Is it a button to retract or just pulling it out?
I'll be printing PP-GF for my review.
Qidi needs to hire new industrial designers. their products all look like cheap knock-offs when all they need is a little bit of love and care
I think they've making progress, maybe they've been hoping for the retro toaster oven look to come back into style. The Q1 looks pretty nice though doesn't it?
@@NeedItMakeItI think it looks fine, and to be honest I really don't care what something looks like if it works
@@TS_Mind_Swept Yup, I'm with you! Most of my models look bulky too and that's mainly because I want them to last.
@@TS_Mind_Swept _"I really don't care what something looks like if it works"_
me too. I love plasticky things that work! In the 21st Century everything must be nothing but plasticky. I don't get those who demand thing made of sheet metal like if it's 1980 outside.
Hi Mr. need it make it one thing that I would love if you could send out to all of your subscribers, cause I’m just a small voice all I wanted to say was that basically since they’re extending the earlybird a little more if you add it to your car and then you get a 5% discount code by just signing up with your email. It will be $450 no tax and no shipping.
I bought a Q1 Pro using the link. It came Yesterday and I'm getting the best prints I've ever seen. I print abs mostly and it's running like a dream. I like it so much I came back to this video to buy a second.
Sorry I missed the comment for some reason. That's great, I'm still going strong with the printer, the only problem I've had so far is that I had a blog of PETG drop onto my print so PETG getting stuck to the nozzle is still problem no matter which printer I use. I'm going to be testing some different nozzle soon to see if it helps at all. PETG-CF isn't as bad as basic PETG, so it's not common. Print quality is really good, it's as good as my X1C, and I will do a head-to-head-to head with my printers soon to see which ones comes out on top.
Very good review! I don't need another 3D printer (have 4 already) but I like this one so I just might to buy this one. If I do I'll use your link instead of the one in another review I watched before yours (Clough42, not fond of his I'm better then everyone attitude!). If it still has the discount in 2 weeks (traveling) I'll buy one. I like how you come across on your channel, that's why I subscribed after watching your channel 1 time. Thank you for your videos. By the way, their website says it has auto calibration and auto "Z" offset calibration, just FYI.
Thanks, it takes about 2 weeks to run enough parts and wrap my head around the printer to speak about it intelligently; then put it all together to make some sense. The videos always start off organized and then deteriorate rapidly from there... I didn't cover every little detail, I wanted to focus on what I think is most important for people.
Thanks, I appreciate you considering to use the link if the time comes. I'm not a fan of advertising, but I don't mind showing off products and if it's good, people can make the decision themselves whether it would work for them, and that's why it's important to cover all of the good stuff and any issues as well.
I'll have a video coming out probably next Wednesday to make an adapter for the spool holder, and maybe a little larger version of the Carbon filter, the leadscrews are a different size but I'm not sure if they need cleaning like the Bambu printers do, so I may not need to create a Rod Sloth cleaner for that size.
Thanks for mentioning the calibration, that's true for the Z-axis and it seems to work well, I guess I wasn't too specific in the video, I'd love for them to have an option to calibrate the filament like the X1C. I've spoken to QIDI about it, I hope it's something they'll consider.
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!
I'd love a copy of the clamp pad file!
Hi, will you publish the STL of this filter enclosure?
Awesome review...curious by what you meant by saying no auto calibration?? Do you mean like input shaping or filament calibration?? Curious how the webcam looks, how come you didn't show it for any of the timelapses or did you and I missed it? A preloaded klipper printer with a heated chamber for $450ish with QIDI's 5% discount for new customers is pretty amazing
Thanks! Sure sorry I wasn't specific enough at that point. When I said that I was referring to filament calibration, similar to the way the Bambu works by extruding a small amount of material and then scanning it and making adjustments on the fly. The QIDI has auto Z-offset, which is a form of calibration and also bed leveling, but not material calibration and I've been spoiled with the X1C.
No doubt that the price is very good for what you get, they've done a great job, and I'm still going strong, printing everything I can thanks to the active heating.
All is cool yet at the end you do not want to replace that steal plate as that is mainly used for vibration and support of the overall printer itself. QIDI even ran into this issue with the first version of their X-Max 3 and needed to recall all printers to have it replaced.
Good review. My Q1 Pro review unit arrived yesterday. Will publish a written review on the machine on our site later this week.
@NeedItMakeIt Mike, I like the arrow on the tip of your finger
In the next videos, I will have an even better version of this finger arrow for the ultimate pointing experience :) 2 1/2 years ago I was biting my nails and I would have to hide my fingers, luckily I stopped that habit.
Same
I don't know where id look if it weren't for the arrow!
Oh, I will have many more arrows to come, I plan on arrowing the ____ out of my future videos. I thought it'd be kinda funny.
@@NeedItMakeIt Okay, I just thought it was kind of funny as I've not seen that by anyone else. lol
Thank you for the review... but what catch me is how you modified the plate and railguide for the KE, please help me to modify mine also. thanks
I can certainly help, I have a video on that very subject! I also have several more coming for the KE. Check my channel it should be the 3rd newest I believe.
The dark platform you use to check flatness for your prints (In video time stamp 16:42),
what is it and what brand is it?
Very useful video ... what brand is the brick red PETG & would you recommend using it?
It's brick red PETG-CF (carbon fibre) from Bambu Lab. I haven't used any yet, but I hear it's of decent quality
@@russellkeyes3984Cool, thanks a lot!
I don't think there is another filament that looks as good as CF, and now we have more colors available too, which is really nice. I just bought a few more spools. I know layer adhesion is not as good as basic PETG, and that may come down to some of the print settings, I was able to get a chisel in there easily and pop the layers apart, that isn't a problem with basic. I will have to see if changing the cabin temp or messing with nozzle temperature and speed will solve that problem.
Yes Bambu filament for all of the prints now, it's easier if I can stick with one manufacturer for any testing as well.
@@NeedItMakeIt worth noting that Bambu's CF-PETG is only 5-10% carbon fibre by weight, whereas most CF-PETG blends are 20%. I'm guessing that's why you can get different colours for Bambu CF-PETG, once you add more carbon fibre it just goes black. Is it noticeably stiffer than regular PETG?
Do any of theses printers have closed loop motor control?
Should a Q1 Pro Max version follow, I will buy one. Very nice video. Thank you very much.
I would imagine so, they seem to have up to three printers per set and from the reviews being pretty positive, I'd imagine there are many more to come from QIDI. I also have heard whispers of multi-color, though I don't know anything about how they might accomplish this. There are a couple of USB ports on the printer, maybe it'll connected that way... I'm purely speculating, but I hope they do, it'd open up lots of options for this printer.
Thanks for your support!
great job body thanks
Thank you!
Thanks! great vid. Do you think this would be a good option for the UV resistant filaments > ASA, PCTG & PETG? Speaking of those which UV resistant filament would you recommend for functional parts... eg a shed door handle?
Shed door handle, now you're talking my language. If it's pretty beefy any of them will do fine, I'd default to the lowest price, and that would probably be PETG. If you do use it, I'd recommend adding a little bit of fuzzy skin 0.08 in amplitude and spacing, it helps to reduce the sheen just enough. ASA is nice as well and this printer can handle ASA with no problems. The prints that I showed in the video were some of the heaviest that I've ever made at that size and they stayed remarkably flat, I was a little surprised, normally I'd have to add a big brim with a 0 offset distance to even have a chance, it's hard to believe that chamber heating can have that much of an impact.
I'd like to see a picture of what you come up with and if you want to make some points for free filament, are you going to post the design on MW?
I need to design a gate handle and latch for both of our gates, I've been thinking about whether I should integrate steel for the latching mechanism and have the majority of it made from ASA or PETG.
@@NeedItMakeIt i'll gladly share my design, just not sure what you mean by posting it on "MW"? It's a pretty simple design. I's like a square U shape, that will go through one door, so that it can be opened or closed from inside or outside... my description is probably clear as mud! lol
@@NeedItMakeIt Hi Do you print ASA using the default QidiSlicer settings or did you change something? I've just installed Asa for Q1 and I have a problem - 25x25 cubes with 40% filling. The corners between the layers lift up and it stays firm and adheres well to the table
@ I've not printed ASA, but it's similar to ABS, the issue you're having is that you don't have enough time for those corners to cool before the next layers are added. You can add some part cooling, or you can turn the AUX on just a bit. If your part is small or has some overhangs, they'll want to curl a bit unless you have enough time for them to solidify enough before the next layers go on.
Let me know how it goes.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you, you're right. That was most likely the problem. It's the first time I have a printer with a closed chamber and I'm experimenting with new filaments. on the packaging of my ASA filament there is information that the fans should be turned off and the slicer, after selecting the ASA material, had fans marked from 10 to 60% in the options... but according to all the information I found, the fans should be either turned off or to a maximum of 10%, so in accordance with With the knowledge I gained, I turned off the fans. perhaps this is actually the case if we print on an open printer or only have a closed chamber. but in my case, the slicer sets the chamber temperature to 55 degrees. it looks like you hit the jackpot and turning off the fans and the heated chamber caused the filament to harden slower, the problem was solved by starting the print with practically the parameters proposed by the slicer, I only raised the table temperature to 110, the chamber temperature to 60 and used athesis spray on the table (now printing it holds on to the table so tightly that until it cools down it is impossible to tear it off by force). Thank you for your answer and willingness to help, and best regards :) (I also apologize for my comment, but I use a translator)
A little confused. When you took the print head apart, I thought you said it had a sensor? Yet you had to do manual bed leveling with paper? Was that just to get it basic leveled and it still does auto bed leveling with the sensor?
Correct, this printer has 2 lead screws which are independently driven, which gives it the ability to auto-level side to side, but not front to back. The leveling screws allow for the adjustment front to back to get a very parallel bed with the gantry. The sensors and probing sequence will account for any irregularities, but it's best to start with a good foundation if you want the best results possible. Having a parallel bed also gives you a part which finishes much closer to your final size in the Z direction.
I hope that answers the question.
I was trying to decide between x-plus 3, Adventurer 5m pro and the P1S. Now I have this one to look at too. So I will be printing parts for RC airplanes and around the woodshop. I will need to print glass fiber nylon, abs cf, tpu, pet cf and petg. I don't want to tinker with it. I want to print parts for other hobbies, not get a 3D printer hobby. Which do you recommend? Max budget for printer is $700 since I will need to buy a filament dryer and filament.
LOL same list I was considering basically. If all reviews of this printer are just as solid, I think this is at the top of my list now. Great features, large build area, heated chamber, lack of gimmicks and chintzy parts short of the spool holder, seems good overall.
It's great to have so many choices and the competition seems to be ramping up. I guess it really depends on what you're trying to do, the heated chamber is really nice for those high temp materials so it will definitely help with those Nylon-GF parts (I am going to try some of this soon!)
Based on the parts you want to print, I'd say that the X-Plus or this printer would be best, mainly for the ability to heat the chamber, I haven't tested the 5m yet, maybe that will be coming soon. Looking at the product online, it has some nice features as well. Very similar looking to this printer. It doesn't seem to have a heated chamber, but if you're only doing smaller sized parts, it is probably okay to not worry too much about the active heating.
I was going to say that the 5M looks like it might be quite nice for your setup, but it only reaches 280 max extruder temperatures, the quick swap nozzle would be really handy too.
The X-Plus 3 is a little higher than your price range, but it has a larger BV to offset the price a bit.
The P1S is pretty much at your price-point and you'd have the ability to use an AMS if not for color, then for keeping your filament dry and clean. Their hotend temp reaches 300, which seems a bit more suitable, however it's not meant for abrasive materials, and you'd want to swap out some parts...
The most suitable printer for your needs that I can speak to at the moment is the Q1 or the X-Plus3.
It's a really tough call, shall I email Flashforge and see if they'll send me one to test out?
I hope I helped and didn't just add more confusion.
@NeedItMakeIt Thank you for the detailed reply. I think this might be the one to go with, bigger than 5M pro at same price and $250 less than the P1S and $140 less than the x-plus 3. The larger build volume is nice on the x-plus 3 though.
@@ArcticCatHunter No problem! I have the Creality Max, and there has been 2 times when the larger size was needed, everything else that I've printed has fit with lots of room to spare on my other printers. It's nice to have the extra size for sure, I suppose it just depends on what you normally print whether you'll use it. The filament companies are licking their lips, saying buy the bigger printers... bigger printers = more filament I would imagine.
With the KE that I am upgrading, I'd like to print an entire new modular base, but even my K1 Max is too small for that project, so 4 parts or just wait for a bigger printer to come along at a good price.
You need to decrease your bridge flow ratio in your slicer settings. When it is finishing the top of the bridge, too much material is extruded and causes a small blob and blocks the extruder slightly causing “under extrusion” after holes. Start at -.02(.98) and work your way down, print something small like a benchy or make a small part to simulate those holes. I’ve been fighting the same issue on an X-Plus-3 and I think I’m down to .93 bridge flow ratio on PLA+.
Ah, thanks for that! I've printed many a PETG print, but not so many in PETG-CF and it seems to be a different animal. Peaking the holes seems to work really well and doesn't take much longer in the design stage. I would like to see if Fusion can create a peaking feature to save a few steps. Otherwise I've been printing PETG-CF and ABS and getting flawless results, the ABS today I did was the nicest looking print I've ever made. I added a micro-fuzzy-skin as a test to see if the printer could handle that level of fine movement, but it handled it with ease.
Could you elaborate on spool tangle sensor please?
How easy would it be to add to, say, K1 ?
Hi, and sure, the tangle sensor is on a spring, when the spring maxes out, it looks like there is a switch activated, it's fairly simple I suppose and probably could be integrated into the K1 with a bit of design knowhow.
Sovol SV08 next? This year will be interesting.
I'm happy to try just about any new printer, I'd just like to see something different and innovative or at least like this printer, doing everything better... including the price.
Flimsy spool holder, though I see it bouncing. I gave my Sovol SV07 plus so I can add it to my Qidi family. X-Max3, X-Smart3 and soon Q1-Pro.
That's true, I released a video for a sturdy and simple side mounted spool holder upgrade last week, it's called the Monkey Bar.
Good stuff, like the xsmart 3 with a few improvements and a bit larger. I do not like the new filament unloading routine at all. Before (actually feeding it backwards) it was much better
Else, probably a buy
You don't actually have to do it that way. You can heat it up and pull it right out.
I think the retraction is a bit slow, so pulling out quickly is a good option for sure, slow pull gives a long thin piece of filament and possibly some material left where you don't want it.
how will you compare this with the XC-F Pro? I was thinking of buying the XC-F Pro then saw this new one. I know the proce of the XC-F Pro is more money and has a larger build volume but will this Q1 Pro pint higher end materials better? thanks
I'm just checking into this now, let me have a closer look at the XC-F Pro and get back to you.
Dang this looks super solid. At sub $500 it's probably at the top of my list for most wanted now. Was considering the X-Plus 3and the Adventurer 5M or 5M Pro. Really nice review!
Thanks 802! There really wasn't much to complain about on this one, well done to QIDI for making a solid printer at a good price. Now that I have some chamber heating, I'm going to have a hard time going back. Since finishing the video I've been printing more ABS parts, mainly because now I know they'll stay flat. I think we need a better filter setup on the printer though, so that's going to be coming in a future video and I'll see about addressing that flexible spool holder as well so people can print their own to be safe.
Very nice.
Thank you! It's a nice printer, I'm just getting setup to do some more prints on it right now, and I think I've wrapped my head around the PETG-CF, it's such a nice looking filament, but it doesn't like bridging and overhangs, even beyond basic PETG for some reason.
@@NeedItMakeIt I just bought the XMax3 a couple months ago, and although it's larger, maybe waiting I could have bought this instead. Unfortunately, you never know where the 3d market is going at any given time, things change so quickly. I've found the Smooth PEI plate for my XMax 3 works much better on filaments that have issues sticking and warping (sometimes they stick too well to it). I haven't ventured too much into the more high end filaments due to the costs and needs at the moment. I have tried printing with Qidi's ASA once, and the prints release part way thru on the textured plate, but am waiting to try again till I can vent it outside due to the smell (I print in my basement). Qidi support has been great with any issues I have had. I like that you get right to the information people are looking for, not needing to see the drawn out process of the things we don't need to see. Thanks.
That's good to know, do you use any glue stick? I've always been using it since the beginning and I know that lots of people don't like to, but when printing heavy parts, I don't see any way around it. I'm using the lightly textured buildplate and it works best with glue stick for sure, I guess we'll have to wait to see what aftermarket plates come out to test.
I'm lucky to be able to have enough filaments coming from my designs on Maker World that I don't worry too much about the filament anymore, but some of them are 50$ a spool, that's hard to justify.
I'm working on some ideas to exhaust our printers outside, do you happen to have a window nearby?
I try to edit out all of the things that people don't need/want to see and get to the 'good' info, though I can sometimes get a little nerdy with the parts I create and I can get side-tracked. I have no idea if some of the parts are interesting to people or not, but I can't bring myself to print non-functional parts like Toasters and Benchys endlessly.
I use hairspray. I've tried gluestick, but it never seems to go on smooth for me. The smooth PEI plate seems to hold prints tight and the hairspray allows easier release. I do have a window, right behind the printer, so when it warms up here in the northeast, I can put a window fan in and exhaust out. Also looking for a low cost VOC meter. Any recommendations? Thanks.
I think you need to lower the cooling for overhangs concerning your Creality replacement parts.
I ended up peaking the holes and that worked perfectly, ABS seemed to handle the holes regardless, but this PETG-CF is a bit of a different animal, and I should have had some better cooling as well. Someone else mentioned to reduce the bridge extrusion also. I'm pretty happy with the results I've been getting since doing the recordings, they're fully flawless with peaked holes.
I see to purge and replace filiment the tubing is removed from the coupler, the filament is cut and removed. The the tubing is reinserts into the coupler again. Is this coupler replaceable and of a type used on Bowden tubing for years? I ask because after a while on my ender printers I’ve owned the coupler digs into the tubing and won’t release it.
If easy to replace and available then I’m very interested in this printer for the price vs a K1C I was looking at.
Thanks for the parts tear down look at the hotend.
It's just a piece of teflon tube, you could buy a new one
Yes on new tubing but it’s the coupler on the hotend a reviewer side won’t release the tubing so you can pull it out to cut the filament? I have ordered the W1 pro so I guess I’ll find out if there’s a problem.
I don't do it this way, I just heat up the nozzle and pull the filament out, or you can extrude a tiny amount then hit retract. leaving some filament beyond the gears isn't a good idea because if for example you feed in some TPU and you have some PETG or ABS in there, the TPU will have a tough time trying to force the other filament out of the nozzle, better to remove it as much as possible I think.
I've fed this info back to QIDI and we'll see if they adjust the load-unload cycles on the printer by default, I'd like to see them do this.
This printer performs better than the K1C, it is far more solid. Maybe just a filter and a new spool holder (I have a video for that this weekend coming)
mpoxDE found out, that the room heating module isn' t safe to use. Whats your experience with it?
To my understanding there's really only an issue with how it's wired for European systems. Just don't stick a fork into the heater when it's active.
@@colinmetzger6755 so there is a difference between us version and europe version?
Seems like they added autocalibration for models shipping today.
As someone who has only every had a Qidi-tech 1 that still works after 8 years, this printer is incredibly attractive for the price. (Qidi-tech 1 isn't on their timeline, but I think it recieved slight upgrades to become the x-pro.)
Thanks for the great review!
I guess I wasn't specific enough in my video, my apologies for that. The calibration I want to see as an add-on is the filament, this would require what other companies call LiDAR, but it's really just one or two lasers with a camera to detect the expected extrusion vs what was actually extruded and then compensation can be made on-the-fly just before the print starts.
I think the calibration they're referring to is the Z-offset and bed mesh calibration, which is true, it does have that and it works really well.
I like what they've done with the printer, it's a little hard to get the camera inside to see what's going on, that's true for any enclosed printer, but with the K1, the side panels came off to make it a bit easier.
I appreciate the comment. I'll probably have 1 follow up video to this one, I want to design a mod for that spool holder just so people have an option to tilt it back a few degrees, or maybe stiffen it a bit. I can't say for sure that it would be needed but if there is enough weight on there for long enough, I can see that it might want to lean a bit more and filament can bounce off.
I’m following since.. today but you are a very advanced maker.. can’t see why you wouldn’t upgrade to a kit 3Dprinter like Voron, Ratrig or VzBot.. I’m sure you would be super happy about your prints.
I'm more than happy to test out a kit printer. I'd love to build a Voron in a series and work on improvements and develop it as well. My goal is to be able to build my own printer which can print Concrete furniture to start and then I'd move up to sheds and dog houses and then to full houses. As the channel grows and I can afford to spend some money, I'll be doing more in this direction for sure.
I also think we're ready for another breakthrough in the tech, I believe that we're going to be printing industrial grade prints at home. If you've seen the video from Micronics3D, I think it will be this, but better! There are some safety concerns, respirator and a dedicated area for the work, but I think it's coming and coming quick, and layer bonding and layer lines... well they won't be a thing anymore. It'll still be plastic of course, until we can print metal at home, which is coming too, but will open up a whole load of issues.
For omeone who buys this printer having no experience, what software should i be using to get started learning while i wait for it to arrive. Im more interested in learning the design software more so than the printer I choose. This seems luke a decent first printer to get started
Hi, printernoob here. Most popular choices for designing seem to be fusion360 and onshape.
@mfrederikson Appriciate it ..I have not checked out onshape yet... ill give it a go "printernoob" lol yep ..more like printerdoob!
its such a hard choice, the x-smart 3 is available;e and at 250, but this is 400 but available mid April, as an engineering student who is tight on money what should I consider buying out of the two, I really need help, might need to make a whole matrix for this
Easy choice if you need the more advanced materials.
Ive had xsmart for few months. Beast of a machine for that price. Mostly using asa. Bang for the buck. But at the moment im thinking about getting this one also. 😀
i have you a legit answer but it seems the channel owner is a bit triggered as he has deleted a few of my comments. he seems to be a little precious like many amateurs in this community. anyway, the Max3 is the best all rounder for size, temp and budget.
For me the Q1 have 3 problems:
- risk of electricity shock a the 110/230v build space heater
- not a Vanilla Klipper
- the Klipper version is over a year old. 😢
For the heater, how would you recommend they solve that? Perhaps a heating mat, similar to the heat bed?
Yes, I agree they should move towards completely open and up-to-date Klipper to take advantage of all of the recently adjustments and anything new. It's nice that they have it and that it's open, but it could be better. I'm no Klipper expert, so thanks for your thoughts on that.
It would be nice to have the ability to use Mainsail or Fluidd, I guess there is some dispute about some of the changes they wanted to make to Klipper so they had to do it this way. Would you say that it's possible to install Klipper onto the printer and use it the way it was intended?
@@NeedItMakeIt Form my knowledge based of other reviews: mainsail is installed but on not on the TCP port 80 but on 1000 something.
And with the changes form them updating the old Klipper Install will brake the printer
I'll have a look into it, personally I don't really mind if it's new, I'm happy if the prints turn out well. On occasion when Klipper has new features, we're going to want some right away and I can see that being something that they need to address.
@@NeedItMakeIt for access can you try the IP:1088 ?
The web interface should be on port 1080 or 1088
what filament was the PLA CF, and the TPU?
Those are all Bambu Lab, I post my designs on MW and I'm able to generate points towards free parts and filament. I have a video on that subject as well. The CF filament is really nice, they have a newer High Flow TPU which I haven't tried yet, the stuff I use is a little bit older and quite slow to print at 3.6mm³/s. I think the quality of this filament is pretty good, not quite as good as Prusament, but it's close.
@@NeedItMakeIt oh ok. I'm looking for a printer to do ASA, PETG, stuff like that, but i'm not all that versed in FDM printing, and when you said you used the recommended settings, didnt knew if the printer settings or filament ones. Because Bambu's recommended settings have a large temp difference. thanks for the info
@@xRaptorScreamx Each printer will be a little different and settings should be tweaked based on each for the best possible results... that said, I didn't do that here, what I did was opened Bambu Studio and used the settings meant for the Bambu X1C for this printer instead, I just copied and pasted the info, filament flow, filament temperature, bed temperature etc. The only thing I could not copy was the Pressure Advance settings, but thinking about it now, I could have changed my printer to the P1S or similar and those settings should be within that printer.
When I run all of these tests, calibrating each of the filaments is very time consuming and wasteful, I was super happy to know that I didn't need to do it right away, or at all, the quality of the parts coming off of the printer is very good regardless.
If you want to calibrate, that will put it over the top, I just didn't think it was necessary.
For a little mor background, this printer has a hot end which can reach higher temps so printing ABS and PETG are a piece of cake, even printing Polycarbonate isn't a problem. There are only a few filaments it cannot print... or at least they'd be at the upper limit, and those are Ultem and PEEK or similar. Those are way too expensive anyway, so I wouldn't be going that direction anyway.
Feel free to reach out if you have any more questions or need clarification!
I literally just bought a bambu lab p1s for almost 230 more than this. Is it worth returning for this one instead? I can't say I'm super impressed with the P1S. Its good and print quality is great, but honestly I was expecting it to be a tad better based on all the reviews.
Similar situation, I just purchased a K1C, may return to get this given Qidi's reputation for customer service. They sure do make some ugly enclosures though haha, looking like lake 90's early 00's PC's.
I guess it depends on what you're trying to do with it. If you want to print higher temp materials this is a better printer than the P1S, but the P1S has the ability to use the AMS, and that's a pretty nice add-on. The P1S I don't think comes with a hardened nozzle or gears, so if those are attractive filaments to print with, you may want to upgrade those parts.
The P1S should be a pretty good printer. I can't say for certain, I only have the X1C, but the quality seems to be comparable to the Q1 here for finished parts.
It's a tough call, each printer has their strong points it really depends on what you're looking for in a printer whether it be high-temp or abrasives and customer service etc.
This printer will out-perform the K1C, they've changed a few things like the Motors and the pulleys but the structure of the printer is the same and the X-Y connections aren't as well designed as the QIDI printers, for example, my K1 has some rattling now and that's because of the way they've positioned the Y rods in relation to the belts, they're offset and it isn't balanced, too much movement. I like my K1, but this printer has focused on the right areas to produce good quality parts and the K1C is more about the looks.
They do have that vibe, when I first saw it, I was thinking that it looks like it belongs on a spaceship. I am a fan of function over looks so I am biased towards things that perform well, so I kind of appreciate that they don't care as much about what the outside looks like. To each their own, good for us to have some variety though, we pick the printer that suits our needs the most.
Does it look like a future microwave?
@@NeedItMakeItI may have missed it in your review, but did you comment on the bed thickness? Curious if this had the thicker 6mm bed like their Max printer or if it's a thinner bed like the K1's. Thanks!
@@WadoDragon I just took it all apart to see and it's thinner at what looks like 3mm. From investigating this for my other videos, it seems that they've taken the 3 point connection between the bed and the steel frame below and that allows it to expand with less restriction than the 4 point. I can do some more testing and see what a timelapse shows me, but the printer doesn't have removable panels and it's a bit hard to record what happens on the inside. Correction, I'm not sure how to remove the side panels... yet!
What PC did you use?
Bambu PC.. I pretty much use only Bambu now that I have enough points to be able to cash in regularly on MW. It's good because testing and creating all of these parts eats up a lot of filament.
The PC prints well, I think I might prefer the dark grey or black, but I can't complain.
Great review, i like how qidi uses 4 rails on the z with 2 leadscrews, looks alot stronger than the tri setup on the k1 and p1s.
Your franken-KE is looking cool
Thanks, yeah it seems to be a good approach. Having the probe along with the dual z motors helps to get that bed far more level than with some of the other printers which use a single motor.
They end up using a fairly thick steel formed plate below the bed and then converting to a 3 point connection to mount the aluminum heat bed, which is supposed to be far better to prevent warpage and allow the to move around without being too constrained. It's nice that they've given us some knobs to level the bed, they have a jamb-nut below so we just loosen those a bit and then adjust and snug the jamb nuts back up.
I'm still working on the KE, I think I'll have 3 more videos, one for the Z stabilizers, one for the extruder and one for the final PC, or maybe even ABS bed. But I need an accelerometer to compensate for the changes that I've made so the firmware can adjust for the changes in resonance. I guess I should order that today! Thanks for reminding me.
@@NeedItMakeIt with the 2 z motors does that mean it also you can also use g34 z steppers auto alignment?
How level is the bed?
@@peaceorpieces8343 I just powered off the printer then adjusted the screws manually, powered back on and tried the G34 and it does not recognize the command. Though I don't think there is any need for it. What I can do is just bring the head to the left and raise the z manually, then to the right and do the same, then power the printer on. There may be a way to do this automatically and I am thinking that the printer does this itself since it probes left and right so I will run some tests to see. I shall return with some information soon!
@@NeedItMakeIt yes if it probes left and right it should be doing it automatically, that's great
I just did the test and it did the adjustment itself. I set the left and right sides off by about 6mm and then it probed left and right and the end result was pretty good... I might have to say that it is better than I could have done manually :( . Because it uses KAMP natively I can only see the mesh for a moment, then it is cleared.
Depending what those extruder gear are made out of I can't see them lasting in the long term but hey you never know
If you like I can have another look, I can also ask the company, I am in contact with them. Having taken apart some RC cars, I'm always surprised how well the gears do considering how much run time they've had. What is better steel to plastic, or plastic to plastic?
I wish Qidi would produce a Idex printer with the build size of the X-Max 3 or larger.
IDEX or swappable heads would be amazing. I'd imagine they have lots more coming. I've been printing on only the Q1 for several weeks now and it has performed as good or better than my X1C that's impressive considering that I haven't calibrated a single filament yet and my prints are heavy, mainly 8 walls a 35-45% infill. I'm definitely looking forward to what's coming next.
Can I get the model for those clamp pads?
Yes you can, there should be a link to the models in the description. I have several sizes available now as well.
Odd that only Vector 3d mentioned that this machine is running a klipper version over 2 years old, and there is no way to update it because of the proprietary changes Qidi did -- vanilla klipper is the best klipper.
I can reach out to QIDI to confirm, but I have been printing on this Q1 every day which hard prints and the quality is as good or better than the X1C, the extruder, the structure, the motors, everything seems to be how it should be to maximize the quality of the final product. I even printed a nearly solid ABS print today with fuzzy skin with 0.06 Amplitude and Length, which is less than I've ever done and it looks incredible, can you tell that I'm impressed? Normally I'd have to struggle with settings and calibrating filament... I have done nothing but use the stock settings and turned on fuzzy skin, it was also in a heated chamber, which probably helped to keep it flat.
I'm blabbering on, the point that I'm trying to make is that old or new, it seems to produce great results.
IS an PA sure need some calibration but otherwise great printer
hmmm... it seems the discord link is invalid.
You should turn the printer upside down and make a video about it ;) Printing like that should work too and would be funny.
Some feedback; I would've liked to see more comments about the material and build quality of the printer - it looks very plasticky and not made for longevity. Otherwise, I like your style of videos. :)
I'd probably get an email from QIDI saying... "Please do not do that!"
The outside being ABS, I suppose could breakdown over time, but everything on the inside as far as structural parts is Nylon-GF, industrial quality parts. It's funny though that the GF parts actually look shinier and cheaper than regular ABS parts, I guess it's just the process for molding them, but they're quite nice and very rigid. The case being ABS should last for quite some time, repeated exposure to heat cycles shouldn't be much of a problem because we're no greater than 60+/-°C.
I think they could have taken a bit more time with the cover to make it look... well cooler, but aside from that, it's a good printer. I'd like to see some extra holes to bolt things to, I want to add things to the outside and it's pretty hard with these contours, regardless, we'll get it done with some 3D scanning and modelling.
Thanks for your comment I appreciate that you took the time out of your day!
@@NeedItMakeItThank you for the detailed reply :)
It definitely has a few questionable design choices, but it's still pretty good, especially for the price
There are just a few things I would want to change, tomorrow I have a video releasing for one of them. Overall the important parts are accounted for, the extruder, hotend, structure. The print quality at this point rivals the Bambu X1C, it may, just may be better, I can't tell yet if that's because the parts warp less with the heated chamber. Regardless, for the price, it's a solid printer and I look forward to a larger version of the printer, I assume there will be .
@@NeedItMakeIt The less warping of stuff is probably due to the actively heated chamber, that's one of the few differences it could even be ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
This or the k1c? And why?
I don't have the K1C, but this printer in my mind has far better structure than the Creality K1 or K1C. The K1C looks good and prints okay, but the extruder does not perform as well as this one, it can't print high-temp materials like this one, and this printer also has a larger BV than the K1C. The K1C really is just the K1 with the fixes added to get it to an acceptable point. I like Creality and I like my other printers... this one just does a better job where it matters IMO.
@NeedItMakeIt wait the k1c can't print hi temp filaments? It goes up to 300c, and the inside can get up to 50c.
i dont get why people still using adhesion promoter on pei surfaces....
your bed plate says 250x250 but their website says 245x245x240???
Don't look at the back of the printer, it says a different number.... The buildplate itself is 250 x 250, the printable area is 245 x 245, the back of the printer I believe says 240 x 240, which is a misprint. The correct number is the 245 x 245.
loks like polishing work over x3 lastyear releases. im a bit distracted cuz xmax3 had some flaws, qidi fixed them by simplifiyng construction and thats all, now xmax3 is OLD printer.
STLs?
Where are the STLs?
I don't post all of my files, only the ones I think will be popular, which ones are you looking for?
Do you have the stl for the filter box?
@@NeedItMakeItFor the clamps
@@KaloyanDobrev I have plans to post on MW this weekend, I'll make a note to follow up on this thread.
wow... I know it's been said, but the Bambu influence on the industry is in full effect.
All bamboo did is take steal the designs from Voron. Take an open source printer and make money on it…
@@F1v30h1Cry me a river buddy.
Quidi has been doing fdm printers way longer then bambu all they did is steal from quidi and others
I would have to go back to see who did what first, I agree that most of the ideas came from Open source Voron and the community not to mention the Klipper dev team. Bambu did add color printing with AMS and they have a nice setup for it, even though it makes for very slow prints.
It would be a tiny river, would you settle for a brook or maybe a ravine?
The scammers called “influencers” have a single goal: sweet talk in exchange for a freebie from manufacturers. They would even list a few”problems” like “oh the switch is on the back”, to make it more convincing.
I have zero trust in these “reviews” . Do you want to make an informed decision about a product? Stay away from youtube.
When a person makes bold statements like you have made, without asking a single question or doing research; that's a person who is attempting to 'influence'.
Since you don't know me, and I don't think you care to, I will not waste my time on you. It seems to me that you have made up your mind and that painting everyone with the same brush is how you'd like to live your life.
Have a good one!
How is Qidi pronounced "Cheaty"????
I had to ask them. This is because it's a Chinese name and QI is pronounced Chee and DI is pronounced Dee. It does sound like Cheaty. My mind wants to pronunce it as it it had a U QUIDI, or QUEUEDY, but it's not.
I thought it was "shitty"... and now I own two of them 😉
@@louis-philippeyargeau2497 That's the French pronunciation... how do you like them?
@louis-philippeyargeau2497 that would be Xidi, kind of like a large media platform going into the Xitter
@@NeedItMakeIt No complaint at all. I've only printed pla and petg so far. Only one extruder jam while unloading wich was a newbie mistake with this type of extruder. I've chose Qidi after a bad experience with a K1 and Creality's customer service. In the end I've returned the K1.