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Sorry to hear about the recent inflation on your energy microgrid equipment. It sounds like price gouging sadly.

Well, it's because the demand is so high right now. I personally am already well prepared to any scenarios, but will continue doing small improvements to the system here and there.

Why sodium? I found a good manufacturer to get a whole lot of LiFePO4 batteries, so will probably stick with what is already proven being efficient

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I expect that the price for the LFP now make them a better choice for now. Na-ion prices will start coming down soon though I suspect. I like them better for their charging, discharging and fire safety for stationery setups, but that industry is just getting started. I mentioned being worried about price gouging because so many people must be desperately trying to build microgrids now like you are in Ukraine because of you know who.

thanks. well, I'd suggest going with FT or SL series (from Wuxi FengTeng or Smaraad). Wuxi is a bit better, since they not overexagerrate their productivity. This is the one I will be mounting very-very soon: czcams.com/video/y8yXH5hVNPc/video.html

no, it won't. why would it? those brush contacts inside will last for a very long time indeed. and, eventually a) if the brake is used as a dumpload or resistor brake - why would it get hot if that's the resistor that takes all the possible load. no possible damage to the turbine. b) if that's a shortcut - only for a short period of time a high current (like about +30-40% of what it was currently producing) is applied immediately to stop the machine - and that is for a sec or two maybe, so no, it won't damage the brushes. the slip ring in case there is a slip ring instead of brushes may get damaged of course (actually I have one in a self-made wind turbine) - but that's something you have to prevent with going +1-2 steps of its capacity.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Ive had a slipring burn out and had to replace it on my istabreeze 12v 700w while trying to brake the blades, but now have a dump load on it it so it never brakes, brushes might be more durable than plastic sliprings. istabreeze sent me a charge controller with a resistor on it but brought a seplos mason kit 14.4kwh and a 2000w istabreeze (not installed yet) the 12v 200ah lifpo battery with the 700w turbines on a 48v 250w scooter charger which dump loads into the seplos 48v mason kit.

I did have a Rentek 600w wind turbine, same shape as your middle size wind turbine, which i put stright on to a 100 amp rectefier then a mppt, with 90v 40amp input 12v, but it burnt out the coil wires then sore the big aluminium heat extractor around the istabreeze electromagnetic generator and fell in love.

seplos mason is great - I have 4 units 304 AH coming to me in a couple of months, I think they will definitely help me during the winter. well, to not burn the turbine - you have to use a dumpload-based controller (whatever one) and rather the wind turbine that does not have the slip ring, but the brushes mechanism for vertical spin current transfer. that's also the case why I haven't put my self-made one at high tower - it has a slipring inside - so I rather let it sit on some quieter winds but last longer.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Wow 4, A 70kwh capacity battery. How many wind turbines will you have up alltogether and what voltage and watt ? A guy in Ireland has found a 60amp slipring 6 wires, 2 wires together 120amp ! ( killkennyhomestead) which is great cuase the 2000w istabreeze has a 2000w dumpload which is bigger than the slippring rated, so it would have still burnt out (im going to submerge it in sand and make a sand battery or my shed)

well, I just ordered it in the nearby metalworkshop. here is the intermediate result of it: czcams.com/video/1ayLWq7qf-A/video.html and here is the foundation prep: czcams.com/video/wXELEjTUt_M/video.html here in the beginning of the video I've been talking about some mistakes made initially with the towers, and explained what would be changed to them: czcams.com/video/CScYDuHAeGk/video.html actually, those towers are quite good and sturdy only because they are the part of the other bigger grapeshouse structure. If you want to build a standalone tower - that should be much-much wider in the bottom and go narrower to the top.

I actually replaced the fans to the bigger and more productive ones, after the concept was proven.

yeah, if the frost is such an issue - floating platforms with a proper counterweight mass is the only resolution I guess. And, true, build it for 10kW machine (7+ meters in dia) and then put there something smaller like 4m (3kW) or 5.4 m dia (5 kW) to sleep like a baby and not to worry during whatever storms may happen

hard to say. this place was under occupation from late Feb 2022 till April 1-st 2022, since I am near Kyiv. right now, only rockets fall down here and there, the closest one was shot down this Monday in about half a mile away. the active frontline right now is 450 km away.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead damn bro, stay safe. I hate to even ask but do you have a plan like a bunker or a hideout. I can’t imagine what it’s like living everyday with that happening around you. I was in the us infantry for 13 years so I give you mad respect for living your life and doing what you have to do

well, while I was starting a house, I did not plan any bunker unfortunately, so the only thing we can do is the "two walls" rule, that's it. Otherwise the best possible option is - to adjust your steel (I hope so) balls and keep going, as there is literally no choice. Every day is important, and you have to get somewhere further each next day.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Man you have the right mind set that’s for sure. Stay safe!

will try my best, thanks

yes, spins like crazy, but only a magic for the eyes

horizontal - 1.65 dia, so it makes it 2.137 sqm vertical - 0.49*0.75 so it's 0.3675 sqm so, the truth is - that you can't get the same swept area in both types for the same price. never.

vertical will never ever match horizontal, that's my claim

@@ModernUkrainianHomesteadYour wright, they won't, but if they could people would go and by, just on the fact their would be no bushs to replace or a sealed slip ring costing £20. a good idea to prevent wear on bushes or slip ring is not to brake the wind turbine, instead dump load into heat, like water or sand or sand then water !

maintenance is always the case. vertical also has way more strict requirements for the tower as well

pricewise - they are not competitors. X3 is pricier than M3. so it's not the consumer's problem that within the same amount of budget he/she can't get the same working area. I've been seeing them on various wind speeds, and vertical one can't even get anywhere near 10 watts immediate output...

if used wisely, no overloads - then yes. but in general given the cheap price - I'd expect to replace them every 3 years or so.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead i would say like 50-70% of rated power should be OK. I think many people destroy them with undictive load. Buy 1kW inverter for 200W fridge and then complain they killed it.

yes, they forget that fridge has some startup peaks normally, and you have to be accountable for that as well

yes, true, I ended with going 1.65 m 3-blader, instead of 1.3m 5-blader. that one looks now like this: czcams.com/video/z1OqDNcNeZ4/video.html

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Looks Awesome good luck !

на автоматичному перемикачі ви до Load side під'єднуєте AC-input інвертора. Source A - це буде - міська мережа. Source B - це буде ваш генератор (дизель чи бензин, для критичного резерву, коли нема ні мережі, ні сонця, і коли батареї теж пусті). все навантаження будинку чи квартири ви під'єднуєте до AC output інвертора.

в мене буде EA SUN інвертор як у вас на відео синьо-білий. його AC Output підлючати до Source B? Дивіться, я хочу підлючити EA SUN але так щоб він працював лише коли нема міьскої мережі, тому що в мене 12в версія на 1,8кВт що замало для будинку. Тому я хочу підключити AC IN інвертора EA SUN до Source A (шоб інвертор брав міську мережу коли вона є і заряджав батареї), а AC OUT інвертора EA SUN до Source B - щоб коли немає світла перемикалось на живлення з батарей які підключені через інвертор. Ну і звісно вихід LOAD SIDE іде на існуючий щиток де вже всі споживачі. Тільки треба мені ще перебрати щиток щоб бойлер не живився від батарей

ага, зрозумів. тобто ваш ЕАсан ну буде як резерв. тоді так. тоді все правильно ви пишете. один мінус в цій схемі - нема можливості зробити так щоб ніхто не забув що зараз в цей момент не можна багато приладів вмикати, бо можливості інвертора не безмежні.

​@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Так, це тимчасове буде рішення. Планую ще купляти 4 комірки в майбутньому для будування аккумулятора на 24 вольт (ну і новий інвертор звісно, той продам на олкс) Дуже дякую вам за комфірмацію моєї теорії. Бажаю вам успіхів з цим каналом! Слава Україні 🇺🇦

Героям Слава!

yes, all you say is true. however, just for a rough assumption of how much each exact inverter uses while idling - you can count on 1% of inverter's nominal power, and that would be +/- the value you will get in reality.

true. many people in my country still don't know or have not enough budget to get a bigger and a better one, so they have to have at least some option to start with. However, I see the ignorance on this topic even across my relatives - even for people who know me and see my example, they tend to not believe in what they see... but, step-by-step I'll bring this education to the masses, I have no other choice.

Copyright is not an issue here. You have to understand how China works. consider the whole country as a factory. same brands can be made on different factories without any issues, also same factory can be producing several brands, that's pretty common. there are factories that behave differently though in terms of how do they approach sales. Smaraad is shit for example. Greef and WuxiFengTeng - are the most nice ones, since they don't overexagerrate their turbines output numbers. There might be some tiny differences to the wind turbines still, not much, but tiny ones. f.e. the FT-1000L I have - has a steel hub (and I have no idea which exact factory produced it). the FT-2000L2 which I definitely got from WuxiFengTeng has a very different aluminum alloy casted hub. There also was a tiny difference in the packaging, not a lot, but still. If someone asks me where and who to buy from - go buy from Jessica form the Wuxi FengTeng factory - you will get the attitude, help, and for sure you will get a good product. Don't forget to say her hi from me (from Bogdan from Ukraine) ))

ну треба ж казати правду )

You are welcome. Please also consider the M8 wind turbine with 2.4 m dia (from the same Wuxi FengTeng factory, and don't forget to say Hi to Jessica from me). It has a slightly curved blades with a much better startup area, and it will literally start spinning at 1.5m/s with some production happening already on 2. The only things you have to think about with the M8 are: 1. lengthenign a tail slightly, +35-40 cm 2. it will not furl away from the strong gust, as no foldable tail there I am planning to get one for myself as well, just a bit later.

I have an M8 1000W. Not bad but it need some maintenace every now and then. The problem with it is than the gen has silicon on its 3 sizes and it quite messy to open it up. I prefer te FT 1000W specially cos its furly tale. I like to sleep at ease with strong wind

makes total sense

Deye manages the power form all the sources it has, including those AC-coupled. It can sell it to the grid, or cannot sell it to the grid. If the "selling first" is the working more - than it will sell, regardless of the checkbox status. If the working mode is "zero export to load/CT" - and if the checkbox is ticked - it will not allow selling power from MI input to the grid. about load - that's summer, so there is the little usage in general (18-20 kWh per 24h). in winter there will be times when 6-9 kW of load is visible (40-80 kWh per 24h for heating only).

yes, real FT-1000 is 2.5m in diameter, weight is approximately 48kg. I say approximately, since I haven't measured it exactly during unpacking. But here you may see how it was unpacked last year: czcams.com/video/_hJwzOEBVFs/video.html It is literally same, but smaller than the one you've seen in this video. It goes quite strong, as you may have seen from my videos, but bear in mind that I am using a very thin wire (2.5mm2 only) and my losses on the high output side are up to 30-40%. on smaller 3-4 m/s winds, the losses are 2-4% maybe only. So if you will fix this mistake only, and give it a shorter distance to the inverter/controller and give it a cable of at least 6mm2 - you will get a much better result.

дякую. стикався. я і сам так кажу. бо в цьому дійсно є сенс. питання лише - що ідеальним буде той варіант коли турбіна на 96, а контролер має можливість перемикати режим заряду на різну напругу. одна особливість - тубіна має мати гарний стартовий профіль лопастей, бо якщо ні - буде гальмуватись трошки.

As I've mentioned in the video, the ground will also be insulated horizontally 1.2 meter aside form the foundation wall. That's how the engineering project says. It will mitigate the effect you are talking about. But thank's for a heads up, I'll definitely take a look after that, and will likely make some winter videos about it, I am really interested to see how this performs in action.

@@ModernUkrainianHomesteadnot realy the ground is cold in the winter and has a very big mas that need a lot of energy to heat. Check link foundationhandbook.ornl.gov/handbook/images/Chapter%204/4-06_no-cap.png

I understand that. But your image does not imply 1.2 meters of hotizontal soil insulation... It is not applied in the image you shared. And the project and calculations I have, explain that a1.2 meters of soil insulation has as same thermal resistance coefficient as 50mm on foam polystyrol... I mean, from the every possible angle there will be a lot of distance for cold to reach the foundation. I can't attach a screenshot here, but I hope you get me right.

No idea what your designer calculate. Until you heat 1.2m of soil the winter is over 😂. If u have a cellar underground why do you think temperaturen is around 10 C in the summer and winter?

@@blackeyes18ro please find what is the thermal resistance value of 1.2 m of soil. I mean, if on the ground it is 0 celsius - how much will it be 1.2 meters down. you will be impressed. that's the old method. old, but working. It has found it's use in the modern insulation techniques as well. I am using the effective combination of methods, at least try to.

even the default factory one will work nice even the turbine is given the stable laminar air flow - which is impossible in our standard home areas. however, in general here are the rules for the wind turbine tail: www.windynation.com/blogs/articles/sizing-your-wind-turbine-tail I plan to follow them while redoing the tail on my M3.

Great read, thank you, calculated i get about a month of perfect stable air flow, split up into hours days weeks at 40-50mph over the autum winter, then a gusty 20-45 with 40-80 2-3 times a year averagely. wished i had erected three turbines in a triangle or four in a square so when one would catchs the 45mph then the other ones would in theorie catch the 20mph resulting in a nice current charge. longer rod to the tail would slow the reaction down due to the distance it would have to travel to redirect the turbine.

yes, you can. my wind turbine grid tie inverter is a single-phase as is sent to the AC-coupling as well. moreover, you can combine them as many as you want, and combine three-phase with single phase. all you have to worry about is that the total capacity of those AC-coupled devices does not exceed Deye's transit current requirement (in my case 45A for each phase).

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Great please kindly help me. How to Install single phase to GEN port 3 phase? - I have single phase L N G - I connect L to L1. N to N. G to G. But inverter show only gen voltage no gen power to charge battery or no power to Load.

@@multidev2 are you connecting generator? or microinverter / grid tie inverter? if generator - it will not work, not possible, generator has to be 3-phase. however, there is a solution - go buy a simple cheap inverter/charger (like this one for example, 48v one: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlT0MzR) and connect the generator to its AC input and this inverter/charger battery terminals to the same battery the Deye uses. then you can manually run the single phase generator to charge the batteries, when you see that there is lack of grid and sun and if the battery is getting drained. if you are trying to connect a single phase GridTie Inverter (wind, solar, does not matter, just has to be the grid-tie one) - just do as you said - connect L to L1 (or L2, or L3, whatever), N to N and G to G and it will work.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I have hoymile micro inverter single phase to connect main consumer (home A load). I connect line L N G from home A to Deye 3 phase Home B. It is not work. I am thinking to direct connect LNG from micro inverter not form main consumer. Please help.

no, you don't have to connect the microinv on the Deye load side (at least it's better not to do so without a limiter). connect the microinverter to the Deye's GEN-port terminals. and set up the GEN-port to be working in MicroInv Input mode, do not forget also to set properly the on/off values. there are many video-instructions on Deye official youtube channel

as I told you - need to make the tower first, and that takes time. it will be put in action in 1.5-2 months probably

thanks! for FT-1000 it's 9m, and I will be redoing it to gain +2 m and get the folding mechanism, as currently it's about impossible to do the maintenance on the machine. for FT-2000L2 it will be 12m foldable tower, 9m aside the existing 9m tower. and in the prevailing wind direction those two will not interfere one with another. reason for those bigger heights required is that my house is 10m high and is causing turbulence.

yes and no about moving the gen out of the wind. the thing is - when the gust happens you have to keep the tail aligned with the center of tower. that thing I did not cover in this video unfortunately, but covered in my other Ukrainian channel. and since the tail is aligned with the tower center while wind is gusting - it reduces pressure on the tower greatly. but if looking on the turbine form the top - it looks like if the generator with the windwheel is moved aside (which realistically is kinda true)

likely

shiny one?

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead it's not shiny it was made from scrap 😄

shiny scrap then )) I thought the grinder polished it to the shiny state, mate.

thanks! hm, I thought it's almost always windy in the UK, otherwise how are you getting that much rain usually?

no, S3 sits quite well on the air. no such fluctuation is seen, that tiny one is perfectly balanced at the moment. for the M3 - yes definitely, I had specifically mounted it that way as it is - to show you how it behaves, and then we will compare how will it go after the tail modifications.

yes, the door was open, so yes. the wind is crazy, very gusty. kids didn't want even to go outside. inside the house there is natural silence. as I always say - if the wind is over 7 m/s - you won't want to stay outside, so don't worry about the noise, you will not hear it inside.

yes, the reason of wobble is the green bearing, I've already dismantled it and figured out what it is. the turbine should not go off the bearing, as it has locking joints, two of them, cone shape, that fixates the turbine body in a stable position. and the wobble is inside the bearing itself, since the covers were not pressed hard enough inside, which I was not aware of before, and also I have to apply little bit of better grease inside so it keeps rotating as it should. also, the tail plate is rebuilt already - will explain all that stuff in the next video.

I'm on-grid normally. and my microinverters for wind and battery (as well as the big 20kW 3-phase grid-tie string solar inverter) work perfectly in both cases - if there is grid, and if there isn't grid. once Off-grid - I use Deye's AC-coupling mode, when the grid-tie inverters are supplied to the GEN-port which works in the MicroInv input mode. In this case Deye created them a local microgrid, where they keep operating even if I am completely off-drid

no worries, everything comes in its certain time

smaller controllers seem to be just fine for the smaller turbines. they match in the capabilities, so no issues. for FT-2000L2 I plan using the grid tie inverter I currently use a smaller FT-1000 (the blue one, working in pure wind-turbine inverter mode), but with better brakes of course. and FT-1000 will get a local-made controller, which I already have for some time and in no use atm.

Thanks. Will do my best.

Will start with those I already have. Let me just finish this, it's still a long road to go.

indeed. +1 more is saving my friend right now, he is using it before his battery pack arrives. but eventually, the problem is that I need about 100 kWh of battery capacity, and I have only a quarter of that... to add up with Deye original is hell lot of money, to replace with Mason/Seplos is three times more cost effective, but still a lot of money... So, maybe I'll just use the DeiselGen to supply the extra once there will be no power.

you are welcome. I eventually ended up with fully rebuilding it, here is the result: czcams.com/video/z1OqDNcNeZ4/video.html since I found out during the tests, that 1.65m blades are the best for this generator. had just mounted it today, so quite soon will see how it behaves on the wind. and that S3 body is waiting for a new gen now again, slightly smaller one, as that one appeared too big for it ))

yes, current outages are exactly because of the preparations and technical maintenance campaign on the atomic power stations. Next week will be much better, since tomorrow they put 1 nuclear block back to work. but in a week they will stop another one for maintenance, and so on, after all of them receive proper yearly maintenance. but people had finally woken up, everybody who can - installs a hybrid inverter + batteries, and those who have a place to mount solar panels - do this. it is a nightmare, since actually all the inverters and batteries are already sold out, so are the panels, and even more - the supplies that are on the way - are also sold until October supplies... I guess, it will also help a lot in general, despite solar does not produce a lot in winter.

yes. that blue $80 controller (600wind/600solar version) is the perfect match for it. If the seller's combo price is the same - go for a bundle. however, in my case - I'd go separate, to reduce (or to completely eliminate) import taxes.

if you are asking specifically about the controller price - I bought two (you may have seen them in the other video). One was $94, the other one (exactly same) I managed to get for $76. so $80 is actually a great price.

well, the best to get it is to find it through your local dealer. or to buy directly on Alibaba.

I use Deye original ones, these specifically are Deye SE-G5.1 Pro

thanks, mate! what kind of EV do you have? are you happy with it? proc? cons? I am starting to look at that option as well I guess.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Hi ya, It is the Skoda Enyaq IV80, It Is lovely, Booming Stereo, Big Battery with great range, very big boot for wheel chairs and mobility scooters. Handles good with very little body roll for its weight, it's comfy and super easy to drive. Our first EV the MG ZS and it was a nightmare in comparison. This Skoda has converted me, not to save the plant, save the petrol for my Motorcycles lol. Oh one really bad on hinge is the Lane Assist function.... It panics and snatches at the wheel, it is far too intrusive and the option to turn it off is buried balls deep in the menu screens. Hope this helps mate. Slava Ukraini!

Glory to the heroes! Does your Skoda have any so to say levels of lane assist intrusion?

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead No unfortunately not, it is on or off. On as default Euro Nanny rules 🤬

okay, got you

No leaks possible, as there are no water transfer lines. I use ceramic heaters which are low-consumption (6kW max instant consumption for the whole house). The house itself is quite big, 300 sqm, also, the 100kWh is only for the days when it's -15-17 Celsius outside. If it's around 0 Celsicus - the consumption for heating only is roughly 55-60 kWh. Monthly heating usage was 2300 kWh so far max (in January 2024). And well, truth is that I have not finished the insulation yet, two small things are still left to be done - the bottom part of the concrete foundation is not insulated at all at the moment, I am starting on it this month though. And also on the underroof floor there are several places where I have to apply additional 200mm mineral wool insulation, that's also the next step to help with reducing the heat loss.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I was thinking about air leaks

ah, yes, well, the ventilation is the main one... Everything else is pretty nicely sealed. If you will calculate the losses, they are great actually, given my walls and windows surfaces. 100kW per day, means 4200 kW of electric energy consumed, means, there are 4000 watts of thermal energy losses each hour (on average). And now the surface area of the windows and walls combined is 295 sqm, which results in 13.5 watts of thermal energy losses per sqm (walls and windows), and well, since the floors sqm of the house are about the same as well, it is realistically 5 times less than what is considered to be normal (80 watts of heating power for 1 sqm of room area for example).

If I do your calculation on my house that are in the Nordics then I have a heat loss of 4W sqm, so there are definitely room for improvement in your house.

let me guess - you have a heat pump? and liquid based heater-tank system then transferring heat to the radiators or to the heated floor system? correct?