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Yes, these are multi-voltage strobes. That's a good thing to double-check because a lot of plugin strobes are single voltage devices. The DPiii series strobes can be operated from 100-240V.

Hi @JohanSchmidt, Unfortunately, no. The X2T functions as a transmitter only. Its top hotshoe is used for passthrough only. Godox does make dedicated receivers for Canon, Nikon, and Sony flashes. You'd be looking for the X1R-C, X1R-N, or X1R-S respectively. These receivers also have sync outputs and include cables if you wish to connect them to full sized strobes.

@@Strobepro Thank you - wonderful channel

Hey Luis, sorry to hear about this. We have not noted any major reliability issues with these flashes yet, so I wonder if the issue you encountered was related to a specific batch. A very small number of these flashes have needed their trigger coils to be replaced. Electronics can be fickle sometimes, so it's important to buy from a retailer that backs their products. If you purchase from us, we include a 2-year in-house warranty at no extra cost. We also do on-site repairs. The particular repair I mentioned (trigger coil replacement) takes about 15 minutes, and we were able to get flashes on their way back to customers on the same day we received them in each of those rare cases.

Hi @TeddyCavachon, The Canon version of the X3 uses Canon's classic hotshoe. The X3 supports cross-talk with any compatible hotshoe type. As long as your camera's hotshoe is compatible, you can control your flash groups from the camera menu if that is your preference. Here is a summary of Canon's FOUR current hotshoe types (get it together, Canon): Fully compatible: -Classic E-TTL hotshoe (5D Mark IV, 7D, etc.) -Combination hotshoe such as on the EOS R6 Mark II -Neutered hotshoe with no centre pin such as on the Rebel T7 Requires Canon AD-E1 Adapter -Multi-function shoe without the classic E-TTL pins, such as that found on the EOS R50

@@Strobepro Thanks for your reply. I started using dual flash back in 1972 assisting top wedding photographer Monte Zucker who introduced the idea of triggering an off camera key light flash with fill on a bracket over the camera. I’ve used that technique ever since, in the 1970s - 2004 with Vivitar flashes and Wein photocells starting in digital in 2000 with a Kodak DC290 which had a PC connector when I also purchased the Stroboframe Camera flip bracket I still use. In 2004 I got my first DSLR, a 20D and a pair of the then new 580EX flashes posting tutorials on how to use them on photo forums and my web site. I still use the 580ex flashes with my 50D but recently bought a pair of R6mkII bodies they are not compatible with so I’m happy to hear the X3 will work on them with the Godox flashes.

If you have Godox flashes, no receivers are required. They are built in. Receivers are only necessary for bringing non-native flashes on board: For example, let's say you had a Canon speedlite or an Alien Bee strobe. Let us know if you need any further clarification.

You will have to disable the modelling light on your controller. If you turn the modelling light off on the flash, you'll find that the controller's setting will override it. Hope that helps!

The spring is a little tight at first. We think this is done on purpose since any spring will weaken over time.

@@Strobepro - :) I had to take a pair of scissors to work the spring a bit before I could even get the umbrella to go in. But not complaining now that I understand what is going on.

Glad you found the video helpful! Feel free to reach out to us if you ever have questions.

Strobes are typically daylight balanced, and there is no way to change a strobe's colour temperature aside from using gels. Strobes do have a small amount of colour variance throughout the power range. For example, your AD600 Pro has a colour temperature of 5600 +/- 200K. The variance is reduced to +/-75K in its colour stability mode. Auto white balance (AWB) can produce mixed results with strobes. For colour neutral results, fix your camera's white balance to 5600K, or take a custom reading from a neutral grey or white.

The "APP" mode has been replaced with the "L-858" mode, which was a feature missing from the X3-S at launch when we made this video. The "L858" mode as well as a "legacy hotshoe" mode has now been added via a firmware update. The function was once called "APP" mode because it was necessary for integrating with the Godox A-1: a companion device for Godox's original smartphone app. The A-1 was discontinued once Godox added Bluetooth integration to the X2T. The "APP" function is now called "L-858" because of its more contemporary use with the Godox radio module for the Sekonic L-858D light meter. Anyway, that was probably more than you ever wanted to know. Godox's naming of these functions is kind of confusing without some context, so I thought I would explain it. tl;dr: Both "APP" or "L-858" where they appear will cause your controller to act like as a simple trigger that does not update power settings on your flashes. If you are missing the L-858 function on your X3, you'll just need to download the latest firmware.

@@Strobepro Thank you for the clarification. I saw the comment on app mode in another review, probably an old one. I do own L-858, so this is important to me. I need get the firmware updated and see how that goes. Appreciate your time!!

That is really great. I was waiting for this.

Hi Edward, If you are have the Godox module for your Sekonic L-858, you can follow the instructions in Sekonic's video here: czcams.com/video/k6McgivGK7E/video.htmlsi=aDairTMg10Tpc6CN The one notable difference with the X3 (compared to the XPro controller that is shown) is that you won't see "APP" setting in the "SHOOT" menu. Instead, there is a dedicated "L-858" setting. However, this feature was not available at launch for the Canon, Nikon, and Sony models, and it was just added to those models in a very recent firmware update. So if you don't see the setting available, you'll have to download the latest firmware package from Godox's website. Hope that helps!

The culprit here is probably auto white balance. AWB can give different results depending on the camera/controller combination. Sometimes, it has to to do with how the controller is reverse engineered to work with specific flash systems. If you are noticing a difference from one controller to another, that would be kind of strange unless one controller wasn't fully compatible (for example, a canon compatible controller on a Nikon camera body). The single pin or "legacy hotshoe" modes present in some of these controllers is another thing that might cause the camera to select a different white balance. Another possibility is that you have inadvertently switched into high speed sync (HSS). We've noticed that HSS flashes tend to cause the camera to select a cooler white balance when AWB is left enabled, resulting in images that are rendered warmer. In any case, the solution is to set a manual white balance for your flash either in camera or in post. If you compare the files where you are seeing the difference, you should see that two different white balances were selected.

Strobes do not have variable colour temperatures. A strobe can have a bit of colour tempurature variation between high powers and low powers, but it will always be close to daylight. Colour correction gels are one option, though they can be clumsy to use with certain modifiers.

Yes, you can! Godox's current speedlites and strobes are all on the same radio system.

AA batteries of different types offer variable capacity and performance, so AA battery indicators aren't particularly accurate. There is no indicator on these flashes, but the performance of the flash will tell you when it is time to switch batteries. You will notice your recycle times getting longer as the batteries drain.