Video

Hmm, if you can’t change the idle any lower so that the pulley doesn’t grab… then I would introduce a little more slack into the belt so it ‘sits’ further out. Usually this is done by sliding the motor on its motor mounts until you find that sweet spot but first I would ensure you’re not just idling too high on your carb.

I’ve never had a motor perform that well. I have always let them go from about 6 psi to zero and timed it. Anything over 6min is what I’ve aimed for. That said. I’ve heard rumors of folks whose 2-strokes will hold the psi over night. I haven’t seen a validation of that thought. (Would love to.) My best efforts on these motors have, so far, always been 6-8min on 6psi but anyone with insight from your experience on these please chime in.

Will do, I can't wait to try it out considering I have the other oem Blaster as well for comparison.

Thanks, I should know better. I'm hoping t I mis-poke as it has been shifting and running fine but I'll go back and check.

@@VermontLife u got i right i was wrong i watched it again sry and good luck

Yes, I did that for the previous Big Bear 350 build and people found it very informative to understand costs, where I sourced the parts and feedback on them.

Do you mean the belt cover? In that case I have found the plastic can warp from heat resulting in it not sealing. I replaced mine as otherwise I would get a good deal of debris in there which would affect the belt performance. It's the seals on the crankshaft that really matter as without those (the one's I replace in this video) you'll have an air leak that could lean out and ruin a motor.

Yup, I’ll never live that one down :).

Thanks for the note and the thanks! Glad it helped!

Interesting thought. I'll have to take a look.

Not sure what you mean by clamp. There is a splines washer that slips over the shaft and rotates to lock the sprocket and is held in place by two small bolts. Is that the part you’re interested in? If so I’ve seen replacement ones on Amazon but there are different sizes depending on how many splines, diameter of shaft etc.

I watched your video. That is the cdi in the back by the battery box. Some years have then up front. Some years in the back. I have a series on a big bear 350 that might be super helpful. In one of the videos I take the harness off the quad and walk through everything end to end. The harness is super similar to yours so it should help get you going. Other option if you’re inclined is to flip to the back of the manual for the wiring diagram and chase it that way. Less fun but another huge help.

This one has the big bear harness walk through toward the middle czcams.com/video/YNeIEuRzwEc/video.htmlsi=vorpUIUVIC8RU3WE Good luck.

Easy to find but be advised the blaster is an ac charging system and battery systems are dc. You will need to convert your stator etc for it to work without destroying things. As to wear to but, I tend to use 12v golf cart charging units that can be found on Amazon EBay. That said there are also ‘kits’ you can buy for the Blaster from South Texas Banshee. You may have to reach out to them for the product but may prove to be an easier route. Good luck :).

@@VermontLife thanks I actually want to do it the same way you explained it on the video I just wanted to know wear to buy the part to fallow part by part to do the same thing but I want to have everything ready to be able to do that modification and do it the way you show in the video

@onesimoalvarado6449 I have another video for a Blaster wiring harness that has the parts laid out in it in my latest blaster build series that might help as well.

@@VermontLife thank you I’ll check it out

You made my chuckle with that comment. Sorry to raise your heart rate :).

It still works for me. Best of luck.

Ultimately a harness swap to one from a 1990. I still have not found what the problem with the original system was. Note that when I had to swap to the 1990 harness I also had to swap the cdi, stator and handlebar controls. All of which tested fine or I substituted with a know good so??? It still runs like a champ today. So one of those four items bested me.

@@VermontLife thanks, I was looking for a fix. I have no spark at all, not even the 1st spark as you were getting. I’ll figure mine out.

@@shelbydogg No spark at all... I have a video on the wiring harness of a 350 in which I went step by step through the manual that might help. Best of luck.

I'd try sites like Rolling Wrench, BMI Karts, Buggy Masters... Lots of options for the gy6 really depending on what you want to spend. Good luck getting rockin again!

@@VermontLife great thank you! I was looking for a heavy duty one that wouldn't break again. Then also some upgrades. Better carb maybe. Bigger tires.

@jimmything1000 bigger tires you’ll likely want to gear down. Mine is 530 chain which is tough to find gears for with a 25mm inner diameter on 6 tooth splines. I have been running 20” now and went down a few teeth on the drive sprocket to get the torque back. Still needs some playing with to get the right balance of torque and top end. This motor is stock as well.

Works fronts and a kfz400 rear. I’d have to double check the front length but they are on American star racing +3+1 a-arms,

Kawasaki KFZ400 shock.

It does help. Thanks for the insight.

no problems dude, glad it was helpful

Lots of extra amp hour in these :).

I might have that. Let me take a look at it. Shoot me an email at the address in my about info and I’ll see what shape it’s in.

Also trying to find out about piston size and rings. I have a bore of about 73.03 mm

I’d join the Facebook group called ‘Polaris trailblazer & Trailboss 250’. I’ve had some good advice in there. The other option is Rick Ritter over at Ritter cycles. He seems to have the parts no one else can get and knows a lot about the boss 250’s. (He hangs out in that Facebook group too. I’m pulling apart the spare gear box to look at that bearing but as I recall other than a few flattened teeth on one of the gears everything else was good.

Thanks

Apologies, thought I had responded already but this came off a Kawasaki kfz400.

Sounds like a bogging. I’ve had that before. Nice and smooth then it just slumps. If your carb has a needle you can raise and lower you might try moving the e clip up to drop the needle one position and lean things out. (Not all carbs can do this). Another test, try running with the choke on. If it improves then you’re running lean and may need to size up the main or move the e clip down to richen it a bit. Good luck!

Thanks for the encouragement! Pull it out and get it running! I’ll keep putting the detail into the video in the hope it helps.

Rick Ritter over at Ritter Racing set me up.

@@VermontLife one more question yours wasn’t starting before you remplace the seals right? And what’s the size of the bolt you used to remove the clutch ?

I just quickly updated the description with a link to the one I used on Amazon. I don't know the length or pitch off the top of my head unfortunately.

And yes, it wasn't starting. The compression was low and it failed a leakdown test around both crank seals.

Congrats!

That sounds right as one presses into each open end but I confess it has been awhile so I’m going over it in my head vs looking at it. (It’s at my nephew’s place.)

I live in the uk 🇬🇧 just went to order and they don’t deliver here. Anychance you know of where I can source these bushings in the uk 🇬🇧

And thanks for ur reply

@@joelsmith8048 I popped a quick search string into Google for 'coolester FAAB-1/FAAB-2' and it looks like there are three or four other sites that have the bushing. I'm not sure if they ship to the UK though but hopefully that search string will get you pointed in the right direction. Good Luck!

Better yet I'm updating the subscription with some additional links. Give me 15 minutes :).

The trail system? Not to my knowledge. They just built a youth riding area behind the Walmart last fall and I rode the system late last year as well. I'd be surprised if it did. Sugar River is a part of the state rail trail system so that might be different than the Sullivan County system.

I have not found a voltage spec. (likely because the unit is so old. It isn't in my multi-year manual anyway.) I can't offer any definitive insight on that one. There are some good Facebook groups on the the Moto4's. That would be my best thought on getting a good answer if you're still hunting.

@@VermontLife thank you. I’ll have to check them out.

It's been weird on some of these. Ohm test out fine but sometimes that isn't enough. I'm hoping to get an idea of how better to test output at the end of the coil wire (Like you mentioned in another comment.) but finding a spec on my old Moto4's and Big Bear has been elusive so far.

Use a wet clutch safe oil or it will feel down on power with a slipping clutch and could cause damage. There’s a dipstick on mine. I was thinking the fluid total might be stamped on the side but it’s down at my brother’s place at the moment and I can’t check. But the big thing… wet clutch safe oil.

This one is a 1987. That said, I chased spark for a while on here and swapped in a 1990 harness to get it rocking. I’ll keep your comment in mind for years for my video inventory. Thanks for the note.