Video

i can't get the nut off from the rear tire. tips?

Dude, ALL zuma made before 2011 have 2-stroke engines. That means they use an OIL/FUEL RATIO when running. Yamaha designed the zuma to mix the exact ratio automatically so you don’t have to. It’s SUPPOSED to burn oil, TWO-STROKE OIL to be specific. What kind of oil are you adding?? Have you read your manual?

I also removed the CAT and got an reflash for the ECU due to the fueling changes. UPMAP from CBS Motorsports - That's GABRO's Tune for the Shiver 900. I bought the Black Widow CAT delete for the Shiver 750 which fit fine. You have to do something with the pan above the exhausts. I made an aluminum plate which was easy. Great Price on the CAT Delete Kit from Black Widow sales@blackwidowexhausts.co.uk GPR EXHAUST of Ebay motogpgun (seller) Way cheaper than Akra. $700.

What would you like to for me to offer as a service? If anyone is local to me I am happy to help out. I do very little work for other people as I restore these GREAT old jet skis.

@@genetemplet7022where are you located?

I live in Louisiana. I try to post interesting issues and this one you can see how beneficial these spark checkers are. They show you the spark instead of guessing.

If you can afford it, it is very nice to have 2 skis and of course... they need to be reliable and kinda fast. Ha ha.

That all depends on what is wrong with the info center. First thing you have to do is power them up. On this one, the wires were all messed up and I had to repair the wires and the plugs. I have a video somewhere on replacing the info screen but that is about all the physical repairs one can do with the info center unless they are really good at electronics. Hope this helps.

No drain plug. If you are getting oil in the cylinders your crankshaft seals are leaking. Lots of people will tell you to replace the crank and rebuild the engine. I just install a valve in the feed line and turn if off when not riding the ski. Only way to get the oil out is to remove the spark plugs and place a rag over the holes and turn the engine over. I can be quite a process and a battery recharge. LOL Stay with it and don't overheat the starter. It will eventually fire the spark plugs.

If you have questions you can go to my facebook page. Po-Boys "family" Jet Ski forum and ask. I'll be happy to help. facebook.com/groups/713021842425357

We filled cylinders a year ago due to motor being seized I got it free and it turns over but it’s acting like it’s vapor locking got everything fixed but now I have no spark I’m just chasing issues lol

Don't listen to gene he has no idea what the h*** hes talking about The fastest way to get the oil out is to remove the car braider and stick a piece of hose down in the bottom of the case and use a funnel and a shot back and suck it right out or you can pull the case pressure line off of the carburetor stick it in the funnel and use a shop vacuum and pull it right out and as far as oil getting in it from the crank sills again that guy is full of s*** you need to replace the crank and do it correctly hes trying to half acid together you don't want to do that

It is still holding air. LOL Don't forget to clean it up while the tire is off. :)

Waiting for tires to come in need new stems installed also But got it running good

You can still find these parts pretty cheap on Ebay. If that becomes a problem or vendors begin price gouging I'll do a few to help people out. I can't stand high prices.... we gotta stick together.

Sorry I'm just seeing the comment. Yes, I pulled the engine. The DI hoses can really get away from you regarding placement. Especially if you pulled the engine and it's been a while.

You clearly didn't watch the entire video. He checked both open and closed. Retard.

Sorry you had problems. If you watch the video you will see that there are TWO points to check the rotary valve timing. ONE with 360 degree mark on the top of the intake port, and THE SECOND to check with the 360 degree mark on the bottom of the intake port. If you read the degrees when I do each one you'll see the difference. The video is absolutely positively correct. The reason to check BOTH TOP and BOTTOM degree is because sometimes you can flip the rotary valve over and get the readings closer to spec. There is a tolerance in the manual that is listed in degrees of variance.

@ripptydevibes2581 i think u should be the one thats gonna need to remove the comment 😂

No I do not offer this service. This is just something I do for myself. It is a bit of a pain and I wouldn't make much money for the time it takes me. Also shipping would eat up much of any savings. If someone was really in need of one I might try to help out.

And how do you shave the Inner lip since you shaved off that main area you need to have the same clearance what you take from the front you have to take from the sitting lip right

​@@genetemplet7022Hi, would it be easier for someone to just buy a new one from like SBT?

The valves don't always come out spot on. Sometimes you have to flip the valve and determine which side puts you in better tolerance. I like be closer to the middle but sometimes you end up with readings at either end. Intolerance is close enough but like I said, I shoot for the middle. Good Luck !!

Thanks I just wanted to get something up there for people to see how it is done. I remember my first time. A video like this would have been helpful. Thanks for the comment !!

How did you make out?

da mesma forma que voce nao fala ingles, concerteza o senhor que esta explicando nao fala portugues! mas nao precisa nem prestar muita atencao no que el esta dizendo , o video foi tao bem feito que ele esta seguindo a risca o manual mecanico do sea doo 787 motor! esto afirmando por que tenho este manual! ele sta certissimo! ve no vidio em cima ele esta usando um medidor de centro morto do pistao na saida da da primeira vela do motor, este aparelho leva o pistao para cima exatamento no ponto morto antes dele retornar para baixo na batida , ele nao esta usando aquele tipo " a mais ou menos aqui, pelo contrario ele esta usando precisao tanto e que o cincronismo do pistao do motor dele esta marcando 147 em cima e 65 na parte de baixo como manda no manual! perfeito a media dele!

Hi Nirond, most excellent response. Thank you for taking the time. So true that I don't speak any language but English. I do my best to be as exact as possible and as you noted... I get this stuff spot on and leave nothing to chance. Thanks again !!

Yes I am. Born and raised on the Westbank now I live on the northshore. :)

Sorry just saw this. the pressure loss WAS the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I had great difficulty finding one. But the leaking regulator did not really affect the way the ski ran. I ended up swapping a fuel filter and regulator set up. Go here to find the correct stuff. www.highflowfuel.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvb75BRD1ARIsAP6Lcquq7sLge05hW4Gqlv9jpNtMQYjHYpPQfUDgMD_-fc2eMP46cOjD7F0aAk9VEALw_wcB

I bought my first regulator off Amazon but the seller could not tell me the output regulator pressure. It was either or. You need around 58psi regulator and it should hold pressure. if you go to my facebook forum Po-Boys "family" jet ski forum you'll see all kinds of stuff I work on. I have a few videos. Very informal. Just ask to join. I want to keep the azzholes out. LOL

These problem can be difficult to find. I use a vacuum/pressure pump I purchased for $40 or so years ago. I block off the "reserve" and "on" lines as close as I can get to the fuel baffle. I have clamps for that I get off Amazon. I usually pull a vacuum first to see if I have a leak, then I pressure up to find the leak. Lots of times it is the gasket on the water separator.

Ha ha.... no work order or job release. :)