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does one measured the runout of such a machine? maybe modified it to take "ER" collets ?>

4:00 "Never mind ....it's probably the Wife" LOL

just did my first etch kit (2mm Scale Association 16t wagon) using the materials and tools I had to hand... which includes paste electrical flux. wish I'd watched this beforehand! I did wash everything thoroughly with a toothbrush and Cif bathroom cleaner afterwards though. absolutely hooked on etch kits now

Great attention to the techniques used in working with white metal and brass (and not so much on the model itself), greatly appreciated.🙂

I just wanted to let you know I hope you keep this channel alive and are able to post in the future! I’ve learned a lot about how to approach a DJH kit. I’m in the US and 30 or more years ago they released a 4-6-4 Hudson that I’ve tracked down and am waiting until I’ve gotten enough skills to build properly. Your channel has been immensely healthful and your skills are second to none!

What kind of flux do you use to solder? Acid based or not?

Surely the jig makers it a little easier?

Your videos are invaluable to people like me that are in the complete beginnings of their kit-building journeys. Hoping you return to video making, it's a joy watching you demonstrate your skills.

Why dose music have to be so loud

Terrific work!

Are you trying to drill 0.5mm holes vertically through brass or N/S that you intend to tap? Then you need one of these? I have a garage full of larger tools and it's very difficult not to break off small drills on small work, because you just can't feel or hear the cut properly. I just bought one of these, why I didn't wake myself up and buy one 50 years ago when I started this lark is a complete mystery? The drill is great, excellent and really nice, brilliant. It's a shame it's not variable speed though. Movement is 30mm which is more than adequate. Maybe it could do with a key way so it doesn't wiggle day to day? I might modify mine, but all good press drills can swing so you can drill things much longer than the throat. My Meddings is 6ft high and because it can swing, I drilled out the snapped off head bolts on and outboard motor for mate without dismantling it. The optional vise is mediocre but OK. The one I have has been milled flat on the top. It could do with some holes to screw down some slightly thinner outer sacrificial jaws on the top for holding thin pieces flat as the vee is only in one jaw. But press vises are meant to be drilled, tapped, milled and modified for your projects. The fence is complete pants, the play on mine is 4 degrees and when you can tighten it, it sits at 2 degrees ish but changes. It's a rough casting seated in a very nicely milled slot on the bed! This doesn't make any difference for one straight row of holes, but two or three parallel lines of holes you will struggle. Find someone with a mill to make you a proper fence that fits the slot, and is square as it's adjusted and re-seats square. Get the chuck, a must, it's actually very concentric if you keep it clean. Run out is important, small drills skate badly anyway ... always centre punch? Just drilled a 0.8mm hole in 40 thou N/S and tapped it 14BA no problem. The chuck should be standard, collets optional. I haven't tried them but 1/8" is not 3.2mm? Is it a Sherline ... no. Is it good, absolutely yes. A really really good tool for accurate bench top work like locos, brass work etc. My Sherline lathe is 40 years old and is bang on accurate despite heavy use. I don't know what they cost now, more than I want to pay for sure.

Stumbled across this channel as I start my first DJH locomotive kit. Glad to see you're doing well and thanks for the reference videos, cheers!

Excellent video, very well explained , I will subscribe as I find this guy the best on utube for reviews 😊 thankyou

How would you fabricate the frame and boiler if you wanted to make your own parts. Basically scratch building?

what is that flux in the bottle?

The gear reduction is way to fast for appropriate operation on a layout.

Where are you located? what the address to see your items.

Is this channel or the creator of it ok? Been quiet for 4 years.

very nice video, the way you explain is very clear and just detailed enough. It's sad that for the price they sell these kits the bearings are not foreseen by any springs and they don't have traction on all main axles by gears on all the tractive axles. I hope you can get better engineered stuff in your hands with that skill

How did you secure the final drive carriage at the req angle? Good video - thanks

Thank you for producing this demonstration. I purchased the triple seal bits after watching this. Cheers :)

Hi there. You have a new subscriber. Great videos. I am just starting to work on the DJH Peppercorn A1, and these videos have been an absolute godsend. Never built a loco before and probably should have started with something simpler but the kit was available at the right price so... I have much more confidence having watched these, can't thank you enough.

Great video. Wish you would film some more new ones! Thanks for all the work you do to share your knowledge with us.

Good video content. Lose the annoying music. Your narration gets blended/lost within it!

That was seriously impressive. I admit I was never keen on Balsa having to cut parts out. A thought came to me while watching. Why use a typical electric motor. They probably could have made solenoid motors inside the steam cylinders. You would have to quarter for certain then. Hope Hornby don't read and patent the idea.

Hello Loco Builder, The first DJH Loco I seen being build, thank you. Kenneth

In the first instalment you had marked off a section of the chassis, ready for removal. You said that you were going to explain why later on - did I miss that bit? Would also like to understand how you went about that. :)

Hey Loco, thanks for the vid. Can I use Wahl clipper oil to lubricate my evolution, do you think?

hi when putting decals transfers onto a loco tender how do you solve the problem going over rivet

Thanks for a very informative series which has inspired me to buy DJH kit K14 a LNER/BR class A8. I have a question though; do you ever "glaze" the spectacle plate windows and the rear view windows. I have never seen anyone do it but good quality RTR locos are glazed. I would appreciate you help on this one. Thanls.

hello what is the ref of the square washers around 9:34?

Someone already asked what range of solders you need for etched + whitemetal loco kits but they didn't catch your eye. I would like to know please and what flux you use please.

素晴らしい動画ですね😀👍 私のやり方とは違って、とても参考になります。 日本から応援しています😄

The head swivels so you can drill into taller objects. Have it swiveled off the bench and you can drill a hole in something tall between the floor of your shop and the drill bit (3 or 4 feet / 1 meter+)...instead of being limited to the few inches between the head and base.

HI, thanks for the video's they are great and inspired me to order a DJH "Peppercorn" to build, but DJH cannot supply any detail on the wheel set apart from the price, as I am in Australia there is nowhere to go to get advice or see the wheel sets. Can you offer some advice as how I can Proceed? Looking forward to your next video.

I like the tip about bluetack on the base of the bottle. Lost a quarter of liquid flux the other day!

I like that idea drilling holes and filling with WM solder.

I was told by a seasoned loco builder to file/grind a small flat on the centre axle. This is to allow the screw in the gear to grip the axle better.

Bought one of these and personally I don't think its worth the money.

Howdy Tom , I am building a scratch built brass American 4-4-0 from the 1850s. I am using Romford axles and wheels purchased from Bob at Scale link and did purchase the Markits tool as well . Do you have a vid showing the install of the Markits deluxe crank pins , “mcrnkpdl6” I enjoy your videos and the question I am asking has popped up a few times in the 1850s-60s HO model railroading group I follow . Thank you , Nicholas 🇺🇸

Please define what you're calling 1-4-5 solder. I can't find a referrence to that here in the U. S. At what temp does it melt?

кусок говна есть и получше

Love your video I it brilliant

Basic question - can anyone help me? On the top of the machine vice next to the adjustment knob is a 'boat' shaped moulding with a rectangular hole in it. What is this whole feature for?

I got one of these last week and I’m generally pleased by it. With that being said, I find it very frustrating that the blade guard makes it virtually impossible to see the mark that you want the cut made at, and aligning that mark with the side of the blade! There’s no doubt that the blade needs a guard covering it, but it also needs to not impede the accurate operation of the saw!

The beautiful thing about CZcams (and the Web) is that it is 'forever'. This set of videos has been just what I have been looking for. As an experienced modeler (ages ago and in plastic) I have feared this jump. The kits are so expensive and so hard to get that any mistake is critical. Actually watching you walk though the build has helped my confidence quite a bit - especially the section in this video where you repair a part. Many thanks

If you are being pedantic, a triangular file is called a 'three-square'!

train weel setting vidoes pls