Video

There's a chance of pinching the tube with any tire change process, so go about it with the same care you would otherwise.

Of course, because archaic software better suits archaic stand alone units. At this point, TRO uses RWGPS for turn-by-turn and the Garmin to zoom in on road names (in addition to locating/navigating to abandoned gas stations).

Teleportation takes time to master.

Window cleaner. Best not to use dish soap as it can cause corrosion.

Glad it worked out, though this is intended as a roadside solution. For in house tire changing, we recommend a modern/mechanical tire changer (powered or not). No-Mar, Rabaconda, etc.

Basically, yeah. Only difference is the lesser number of tools being stowed. Roadside solution only.

@@TheRidingObsession motion pro bead breaker is only 2 pieces and includes tire irons. your video using tire irons is pretty slick though as most have some tire irons around.

Looks like you have a preferred solution. Great!

Not as far as we remember, no. That's one reason Robin pulled it apart to make it so.

That's higher tech than most TRO writers can afford ;-)

Yes and yes. We've felt your pain. Watch the vid as many times as you need and reboot your computer accordingly. Eventually, a pattern of operation will find you and you'll succeed (and then eventually forget and have to watch all of our noise again LOL).

You're right. For a dual compound tire, the Mich sidewalls are definitely more forgiving than that of the Dunlop Roadsmarts. With the Dunlops, it's as if they forgot to turn off the steel belt machine and let them run all the way to the edge 🤣. HOWEVER ... for per-instance, roadside, ain't no other way solutions, this is a good technique to know. At no point in the video or article are we suggesting this to be "the" way to change tires. More, it's "a" way to change tires should a replacement be available minus anyone to work on it. True sport touring has a tendency to put experienced riders on curvy, rural roads and with that, last-resort knowledge never hurts.

Truth.

Welcome

There is that, yes.

Lol

Glad to help!

Time and care but yeah ... cutting/installing new wire connecters needn't be a fiasco.

@@TheRidingObsession A good video none the less which gave me confidence to perform the job. Clear and concise, just wanted to warn some others about how easy you made the connector removal look! Thanks

Fascinating.

Good question.

Great to hear!

Glad it helped!

Yup. Your method plays well. Our take on it has more to do with either a) preference or b) limited roadside options. On any other day, we'd use a No-Mar or your in-house setup with all of its forgiving leverage. But to know that the above technique works means riders have another tool in their shed, be it a default or last resort. As for bead breaking with a 2x4: czcams.com/video/dTgntzSPVWo/video.html

You're welcome!

Glad it helped.

You are welcome!

While we appreciate the comment, this isn't a service we offer.

Agreed. Also, it puts any given bike's DTC in the spotlight.

Thanks for that!

You need to take this up with the manufacturer with your warranty in hand. Best of luck.

@@TheRidingObsession ok thankz, may just keep firmware that is on it. I purchased item used from eBay.

@@TheRidingObsession Never did get DM to see Sena. Checked version through Bluetooth on phone I have the latest version.

Right. Well, good luck.

It would appear the manufacturing/distribution is through a different company now. See this link: amzn.to/47Pfiyz

@@TheRidingObsession Thanks, I saw those. They are just license plate brackets with LED lights. They do not sense deceleration. They are remarkably similar to the VOLO Lights however.

Hmmm. Their product details suggest it activates on deceleration. "6+ different flash patterns alert drivers to normal deceleration and emergency braking with white license plate light" - Let's see if the customer comments suggest otherwise.

Hi, Mojo. Robin here. "If it were meeeee" ... Being tech savvy, I'd reboot my computer, quit all applications, disable every background application I can, get the most robust (compatible) cable for the com I have, set my computer's screen saver and sleep policy to "never", completely reset the device to factory defaults and go from there. In short, try not to move. Don't operate anything outside of the Sena software while it attempts to work it's (annoying) "magic". If this fails, then it's time to walk Sena's support phone maze by "pressing # fifteen times before spinning counterclockwise on a specific brand of bar stool". If the product has failed you, that's on them but first, make sure the entire path of process is completely clear.

Done did all that, @@TheRidingObsession

Then it's time to call the manufacturer.

We using RideWithGPS.com to plan our routes. The video makes mention about preferring to only show the GPX file on the unit (no voice nav). If you use voice nav and deviate from the route, THIS unit (can't speak to others) will stop following the custom route and instead re-route "directly" to the destination.

@@TheRidingObsession OK, with voice, but if as you state; Turn off route navigation, then should it reroute to the custom loaded route? Pretty useless device if it can't follow a custom route regardless. I mean, sometimes after studying my route and knowing the area I choose to go off route to discover a different road back to my original route. Sometimes ahead and sometimes to reride part of the route.

When you ask "turn off route navigation, then should it reroute to the custom loaded route?" ... you've answered your own question. Bottom line, no. With route navigation OFF but keeping the GPX displayed on the unit, riders are able to see the line whether they deviate from it or not. If you should deviate, zoom out and eventually you'll see the route that is your loaded GPX. That way, you can meander to your heart's content and find your way back after. But agreed ... GPS units are dated at best. Offline phone routing (such as RWGPS.com) is far better and with the offline ability, easier to configure. The reality is this: 1) Have and understand paper maps on your bike. 2) Some GPS units are good for basic scouting + finding a gas station that likely no longer exists (50/50 shot). 3) Embrace as a luxury, but do not rely completely on, a quality phone app that provides digital navigation. We suggest RWGPS.com all day. Without fail. Takes a little love to get the GUI under your belt but once you do, it's gravy.

Glad it helped!

Go slow. Take your time. Be careful. Good luck!

Great idea!

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped!

Agreed. This video (and its parent article) is meant for roadside remedy use. As sport touring enthusiasts, we often find ourselves in the middle of nowhere or a small town if we're lucky. When you're telling locals "any motorcycle with [dimensions] will do" ... any reasonably painless method for mounting it by hand will also do.

Good to know!

"Dangerous (feat. Joywave)" by Big Data czcams.com/video/nKsYCu3QkBA/video.html

Well, glad it at least worked out (even if "eventually")

@@TheRidingObsession yes. it's surprising how bad Sena software and tech support is. i know these radios are old, but even though I'm tech savvy it took finding your video to fix the problem. thanks again!

Glad it worked out!

RWGPS gathers information from a variety of external sources. What information is made available to us as riders and them as a map building resource changes with time. Sometimes those changes are for the better and sometimes not. So, despite the fact that their platform is the most stable we've seen, live traffic updates, road closures and freak weather don't appear to be on the menu as of yet. With that, the age old "scouting run" is still a mandatory go to for proof of concept.

Glad to hear!

It most definitely was. Good luck in your efforts!

Glad it helped!

Not likely, since the goal is to plug it directly into the already existing headlight power source. You're replacing the power's destination, not the circuitry by which it receives that power. However, all bikes have their differences, so investigate as needed. Consult the forums. Peruse the factory manual. Etc.

Well, that's a bummer. Of course, now onto the "did you try turning it off and back on again" customer anti-support ... 1) You deflated the tire. 2) You pulled the valve stem. 3) The tire iron trick didn't play in your favor. Hmmm. This comment is a job for the horses mouth. Paging Brian Wringer!

@@TheRidingObsession it was very cold out and this was the second tire I’ve ever tried to change, so it’s not the fault of the OP. I went out and bought the MP Bead Breaker irons, and those should help if/when the time comes!

There is zero (0) shame in that game. To have the right tool for conditions is key. This tutorial noise was inspired by a rural pavement and single-track dual sport aficionado who's DNA was used to conjure the character of MacGyver. Bottom line and at the very least, you've seen that if you get stuck, somewhere in the bleeding knuckles of broken-spoke ingenuity lies a solution ... even if that solution is asking the tow truck driver for bandaids to cover the bleeding knuckles of a broken-spoke engineer. Everyone at TRO certainly has their scars LOL. Best of luck next time! Even better ... here's hoping there ain't one 8-)

@@TheRidingObsession you rang? My guess, as with most things involving tires, would be to just "take smaller bites". Especially with cold tires. Put the tire irons close together, try to get the middle one to move just an itty bitty bit, then move just a little to one side, and repeat. Also, try to get something slippery in there. Tire mounting lube is best, or a thin soap solution. If you use Windex or similar, make sure it's all cleaned off the wheel.

Good to hear. Thanks for taking part!