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To be exact, every wheel ever made has a BMS system of some kind. It’s just about which features the BMS system has. But yes, as long as you have good charging and discharging habits, you don’t need to worry. For more information on charging and balancing, check my 80% charging video.

Thank you! I’m glad to hear that the video helped with your V12. I don’t know the how the charging mechanism of the Lynx does it, but several modern wheels balance already well before 100% charge (at least V13, V14 and S22). If Lynx does too, charging only to 80% would be ok for long term as well.

Holy crap, you’re absolutely right! I have no idea how I could’ve calculated it that wrong. At the end of the video I mention that I only lose about 5% due to a shorter pump hose. I should’ve gone with those numbers all along. Frankly, this is an old video and I don’t remember where I got the 15% pressure loss example.

That would work… Or you can check the PWM utilization in an app after you accelerate to get a baseline on how much reserve you had.

Yes, parallel connections always have the same voltage as it can’t be different at the ends of a 3cm long nickel strip. The 18XL doesn’t need to limit the voltage, the charger does that naturally. The battery voltage can’t be higher than the charging voltage of course. If the cell groups were very badly balanced, some cell groups could reach the overvoltage limit just as well.

@@mrelwood_EUC - I corrected my prior comment. The 18XL is constantly cycling charging off and on to limit the average current. Based on what I saw, I assume that once one or more cell groups reach some upper voltage threshold, the 18XL BMS shuts off charging while 100 ohm resistors discharge the high voltage groups to some lower threshold, then cycles charging back on again. Based on what I remember, the short bursts of current occurred every 5 seconds or so. If a pack was badly balanced, then the bursts would be less frequent and shorter still at higher current. The V8F could do something similar, except with 1000 ohm resistors, the short bursts would occur every 50 seconds or so, but instead, it shuts off charging for about 8 hours while discharging down to 82.5 volts, then cycles charging back on for about 15 minutes (at 1.5 amps) before a cell group reaches upper voltage threshold and cycles charging back off again for another 8 hours. That slow discharge could simply be due to the V8F staying on enough to communicate with an app.

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Glad it was helpful!

An inch is a long way when it comes to your feet. I suggest trying moving in 0.5 inch steps, if not smaller.

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Congrats on the V11! It’s still my favorite wheel of all time. Too bad the bearings are noisy, but the only problem with them is the noise. So no need to rush to change them until you get fed up with the sound. V10F is a 16x2.5” wheel, while V11 is 18x3”. The outer tire diameter is roughly 20% larger, so you need to lean 20% further to get the same acceleration and braking. 18” and larger wheels always need pads in my opinion, and with your very light weight they are an absolute necessity. Check this video: czcams.com/video/d3bf_kPHeiw/video.htmlsi=eg4zi5IjWLOjPF6u You can make the V11 accelerate easier by softening up the ride mode, and using the acceleration and braking assists. Check especially this video: czcams.com/video/4ee-tVZTx3c/video.htmlsi=2XJc7Q90Hbf_zYjV

@@mrelwood_EUC thanks for the fast answere. I will try to change the settings in the App! Do you use the inmotion App or euc World? Which is better?

@marcpit2806 I use the Inmotion app since EUCw isn’t yet available for iPhones. Before trying to figure out the settings yourself, please watch my video about them! I’ve done all the hard work for you already. 😉

Glad you found the video helpful! The problem in publishing graphs like that is in determining what anyone considers “safe”. Everyone has their own preferred headroom, and the power requirements vary wildly. Every single EUC now and in the future can be overleaned simply due to physics. You can’t create a system of any kind that wouldn’t be able to fall under any circumstances. So they can’t publish much from that chart beyond the free spin speed, which becomes public knowledge anyway as soon as the first customers get the unit. At the moment the only way to understand where exactly the limits are is to surpass them. Which means overleaning and crashing. I don’t see a way to solve that dilemma, other than to read on other’s experiences and take one’s best guess.

Haha! Thanks! 😄

Aww, thanks Harris for the kind words! Tell you what, send me a V14 and I promise I’ll make several videos about it! 😁

Oh shit, that sounds horrible! I’m so sorry for what you have gone and are going through. Did the protective gear fail, or was it partially insufficient? Or did you fall into the obstacle and not because of it?

How does this apply to a Tesla with lets say NCA or NMC chemistry? They recommend 80% charging so i guess the battery controllers are a bit more sophisticated?

@henrikrasmussen9598 I assume we’re not talking about GotWay Tesla here… 😄 E-cars indeed have very sophisticated battery control mechanisms. I don’t know the details, but they most definitely are not using passive top balancing like most EUCs do!

@@mrelwood_EUC Thank you.

Glad you found the medium mode! It’s usually my recommendation for the exact reasons you described. Most EUCs have three modes, and they are of course different on each wheel model. Inmotions (since V10F) however have three sliders you can fine tune the response with, so you’re not limited by preset options.

It is possible that the V8 series wheels don’t have any kind of balancing. Your experience definitely supports that. But I don’t know whether the balancing function in your BMS has simply ceased to function. I don’t know whether it’s possible for the balancing to happen in the ICs, or what their exact purpose is. But the purpose of this video was to show that while WW has condemned all Inmotion wheels (at the time of the video) because they don’t have cell balancing, the reasoning behind that doesn’t work. I’m not saying for sure that there is, or which ones have it, but based on my experiences I can’t see how it would be possible for the V11 for example not to have any kind of balancing.

@@mrelwood_EUC - the main issue is the 1k ohm resistors. I still don't know what resistors are used in other brands BMS. I did another 100% charge on my V8F, saw a peak of 84.0 volts just before charge shut off and it dropped to 83.6 volts within a second and 83.3 volts within 30 seconds.

Sure, I think that pre-jumping curbs and such is even more important without suspension. Good luck with the wonderful world of EUCs! 😊👍

I doubt the settings would be any different.

I’m very sorry to hear about your crash (hopefully you were geared up!). But I can’t see how unbalanced batteries would’ve been the direct cause. It might cause slightly more voltage dip, but you’d have to be at the very edge for that to cause problems. What was the battery level at that moment? If you haven’t yet tried a suspension wheel, I strongly suggest you do before making your next purchase. I have a video on 80% charging where I go through the details of that exact recommendation.

Thanks for the response! Yes they were unbalanced. I was totally geared up. I've crashed upwards of 30+ mph twice. Once a grass ditch and this one on pavement. I'm lucky, but there is a proper way to crash. Yes I ride on the edge pushing hard thru the tiltback. I feel like I'm reaching The HS speeds. Anywho.... E Wheels fixed it tho no charge. New screen and bright battery and controller n pedal. How long after I charge can I ride again? & to confirm I should be charging to 100 and + 1-2 hrs after every ride? My v12 only goes to 99v even after balancing..is that ok? I learned to ride pretty fast already 2379 miles in about 3 - 4 months of riding before I crashed. I want a faster wheel with more range. I wish they made a v12 Xtreme not a v13, but a better v12 because I love it. For what I know which is limited to 1st time rider only the v12HT....what next wheel do you suggest? I'm aiming for Sherm S, but this new Lynx has my attention. I like the Knobby tire here in Fayetteville NC tropical weather, but I don't do off-road or jumps. Not too important for me. I don't know how much I missing having suspension. That low pedal level grip takeoff I love that feeling when I get low and hug the wheel. Pause 😂. I do want to feel what a street tire does . I feel safe in the rain on my v12HT. I wish I had more range. I'm really lightweight "maybe" 160 totally geared up with charger and ish in my backpack.so I take advantage of seated riding and getting outta the blocks quick asf.

Well. I just crashed again. Pavement. Knuckles scraped and not confident in the euc world. I just got my wheel back. Was going under 25 in commuter mode.

My rim is bent. Won't turn on. I literally just unboxed it ready to ride. Doesn't make any sense. Luckily ever time i crashed even tho I've been on public roads in the right lane I've been far enough between or behind packs of traffic to avoid serious disaster.

I had so much confidence in my wheel at some point. This shit is dangerous. Cut outs are just not acceptable.

The cell balancing behavior depends on the wheel model a bit, but usually yes that’s what’s intended to happen. However, if any of the high charged cells gets above 4.25V, the whole charging is interrupted. The common balancing process is explained in detail in this video: Electric Unicycle: 80% Charging, Good or Bad? czcams.com/video/pgr7-b3eBm0/video.html

Do you mean which pressures to use? There are guidelines for the shock pressures in the user manual, and even on the bottom of the pedals in some batches. But generally based on my experiences, top chamber always 50-60psi, bottom chamber 60psi for a 60 kg rider, and 160psi for a 110kg rider. You can calculate from there: 60 + (weight -60) *2. For the stock tire, I’ve found 35psi to work the best for a 110kg rider, and 27psi for a 60kg rider. So 28 + (weight -60) *0.16. But these both depend a lot on where and how you ride. Only use them as a baseline if you don’t have any idea just yet. If you ride over sharp edges like curbs, you need either a good technique or more tire pressure.

I appreciate you preparing properly! Glad that the video helped. 😊👍

In addition to the tips in the video, it’s important to have the wheel setup properly and to ride with relaxed but not tired legs. For the wheel setup, make sure the suspension sag is correct (~30%) and that the tire is at 25-35 psi. For ride mode, medium (40-70%) is less exhausting than hard (70-100%).

On my wheel, I can adjust the forward and aft pedal angle, which I think will be important for me to play with if I'm moving my feet forward.

Thank you for the support! I haven’t followed the related news and cell performances, so I think it’s better to rely on more experienced people on the matter.

@@mrelwood_EUC hi, what would be the best way to charge the inmotion v14 50s batteries? always up to 100%?

Unless I’m mistaken the V14 has a similar balancing function than the V13 that activates already past 3.7V per cell if needed. So you might get some benefit after 20000km if you were to stop charging at around 3.9 - 4.0V per cell (~80%). As long as the shorter range is enough for you.

@@mrelwood_EUC it is better to charge up to 90% than to charge completely (100%)?

@Karl-ErikRosberg, On wheels that have an advanced balancing system, yes. But remember that you’ll only start to get notable aid in battery capacity at about 20000km. Very few riders ever ride that far with any of their wheels. So don’t stress about it too much.

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Barefoot. 🦶😂

@@bensacheri Always! 😊

That is indeed a difficult situation. It depends on the wheel though. Some newer ones have a better balancing that activates at a lower voltage already. But if you don’t have one of them, maybe only balance once a week, and when you do, ride on your yard for a minute or two before starting the descent. And ride slowly at the first downhill. Some people slowly ride down for 100m or so, then accelerate swiftly back up before riding down slowly. That helps quite a bit already.

Discharge it 19% by going up hills, before going downhill.

While this positioning could help with your wobbles, I think that you owe it to yourself that you practice the methods needed to take the wobble under control if it indeed starts to get out of hand. Lean into the wheel with one leg only. Carve tightly left and right, even just for a very short distance. Some people find help from braking hard while sitting down to an invisible chair, and so on. Downright squeezing the wheel is often very harmful though. There are other techniques listed at the EUC forum, you just need to search for the relevant topics.

@mrelwood_EUC thank you again. I will take your suggestions and apply them

Hi David, when my wheel is over 30 psi I am guaranteed to wobble when braking on a downhill street. My ideal psi is between 26 and 28 even if the tire wears out a lot: I don't care!