This is great advice. I'd like to briefly add two things: power pads, which assist how your lower leg grips an EUC and significantly enhance braking and acceleration; and staggered stance - not aligning your feet perpendicular, but rather riding with one foot forward and one foot back. You can alternate to mitigate fatigue, but mainly, the staggered stance provides you a strong brake foot and a strong acceleration foot.
Just the info I've been looking for, I really enjoy the technical aspects of your channel and am learning lots about EUC's. Keep up the good work and content!
To start I have power pads. Riding the Sherman og, my first wheel and with >2500 miles on it I still play with different stances. Sometimes I accelerate with one foot and may or may not have an offset footing as your viewers comment. It is my one foot that just remains flat except in braking I lean back on both rear power pads. Additionally, I like to find the edge of the pedals and ride them as wide as I can while still feeling I won’t slip off. Bending your knees actually helps with directional control as well. Most times I end up going back to the even stance and my toes are off of the front of the pedals. Never do I escape the hard braking wobble so that throws my game off a bit nothing to brag about and it is scary so I always add turning because breaking hard with a turn is usually because of a car in my path. What I got from you video may help in consideration of foot placement and that is the ball and heal of your foot but I have great rides with weight on my toes absorbing uneven sidewalks where i actually keep contact with the pedals really well as I just bounce up to my toes (I don’t have the power pads set up for my feet to be locked in).
Wow! Just the video I was looking after riding today. I feel like I can finally ride up and down the street, but I felt more tired than I expected and felt a lot of soreness in my knees that I have never felt before. And as you said, the longer I rode the more I wobbled. Felt so weird because I thought I was doing better. I'm gonna try moving my feet one inch up and see if this positioning helps! Thank you!
Thanks so much for explaining fully what I have been playing around with. I'm 71 and just got my first wheel, a v12, and have a hundred miles on it. High speed wobbles are my nemesis but have dealt with them so far. I will definitely try the foot position you advocate next time out. You may have saved me from crashing at the max speed of my wheel! Thanks again.
While this positioning could help with your wobbles, I think that you owe it to yourself that you practice the methods needed to take the wobble under control if it indeed starts to get out of hand. Lean into the wheel with one leg only. Carve tightly left and right, even just for a very short distance. Some people find help from braking hard while sitting down to an invisible chair, and so on. Downright squeezing the wheel is often very harmful though. There are other techniques listed at the EUC forum, you just need to search for the relevant topics.
Hi David, when my wheel is over 30 psi I am guaranteed to wobble when braking on a downhill street. My ideal psi is between 26 and 28 even if the tire wears out a lot: I don't care!
Glad to know that the slightly-forward positioning of my feet is actually ideal! I'm glad I saw this video, as if I ever try to teach someone else how to ride, I can pass it on.
Quality content ! My daugter 6y ride mten4 and via intercom i tell her often to reposition feet when we go downhill she need heel on edge footplate/pedal if not she panic DAD i cant BRAKE efectively! Personaly i prefer efortless aceleration position and for braking i use "sofa sit braking". Nylonove is my footplate and hard army type shoes i not ride in casual boots becasue casual have 0% protection fingers in case of crash and slide on asphalt!
I’m sure small feet have problems getting leverage from the pedals, so having to move the feet makes sense. A staggered stance could also work, having the other more front, the other back a bit. I also sit down for harder braking. It works well. I use shoes that give my ankles some protection in a crash. Seen too many damaged ankles from a crash on pavement.
With time i moves forward, starting from centre. Experience and speed really needs that. But in addition I started moving one of my feet even forward than the other for better stability with my bigger wheel. Nowadays my toes are often not even on the pedals
I decided not go into offset or sideways foot positionings on this video, since it’s a bit of an endless world to dive into. But I actually should’ve mentioned that with time many riders do explore the offset and other positionings, and at that point it’s a fully personal thing.
@@mrelwood_EUC to be honest with my newer EUC (V10F) I was reaaaly struggling in the beggining coming from V5F. It was heavy and do whatever it wanted and so on. So I watched YT on advanced techniques and started riding with left foot far forward. Since then I am having issues to ride as I did before - both legs to be equal, and I do not know why hahaha I am not sure if you said it in the video but different speeds, different terrains need different posture and where your legs go. So changing posture and legs is quite essential for other than flat pavement imo
@@sampolainen uuuhh do you do that? I do not. I am using both legs for both actions. I am not sure how separating the actions between the legs would make me faster, stable or whatever. BUUUT i feel quite more stable if I push forward with my forward leg and keep the backend stable with my back leg. It is like pushing ahead but at the same time having some pressure on the back. Makes it quite more stable i found out, especially in faster pace or loose rocks
I appreciate the insight and I agree, but it probably should be noted that this is, I'm assuming, on an EUC without power pads. We still need a stance that mitigates wobbles but braking is less of an issue when power pads are available.
Power pads don’t really affect your Center of Gravity, at least not enough to matter much in this context. For braking, you’re right, a forward standing position can be compensated easier. But even then, pads positioned for a rearward shoe position are easier to brake with than pads for a forward shoe position. This also comes down to the CoG: If your shoes are more forward, so is your CoG, and you need to lean further back to have the same deceleration rate. But you are right in it being somewhat “less of an issue”.
The only think I know about it is - jump from the EUC and do not care for it. I've hit myself so many times while trying to save it while I fall or mess something. And it huuuuurts. So just leave it and jump off it :D
I find I almost always have one foot slightly more forward on the pedal than the other, using the more forward foot slightly more as the “accelerator” and the other slightly more as the “brake” and switching which foot is which (not concisely, just if I examine what I end up doing)
Yeah, quite a few people do that. I guess I should’ve mentioned that in the video, but I wanted to keep it approachable to beginners. They really don’t need to examine a staggered position just yet. Everybody will eventually find their personal pose.
In addition to the tips in the video, it’s important to have the wheel setup properly and to ride with relaxed but not tired legs. For the wheel setup, make sure the suspension sag is correct (~30%) and that the tire is at 25-35 psi. For ride mode, medium (40-70%) is less exhausting than hard (70-100%).
Most of the how to ride video mention ride with feet centered, but don't explain it well, causing some to think it means shoes centered. Your video clarifies this issue. For wobbles, it helps to bend more at the knees and put some pressure on the upper pads, so there is some anti-twisting leverage between a rider's feet on the pedals, and the riders legs more forwards on the upper pedals. However, a lot of knee bend is fatiguing. For advanced riders, riding seated also avoid wobbles. For one youtuber who is so bow-legged that he can't touch the upper pads without a struggle, he lowers tire pressure to avoid wobbles, and doesn't do drops like dropping off curbs to avoid rim damage when using the lower tire pressure.
I noticed this especially when wearing regular shoes I have a very strange riding position and I'm not entirely sure when or why I developed this. I will ride with my left foot at about a 45 degree angle pointed left with my toes hanging off the pedal and my right foot at about half the angle, also pointed left almost like a skateboard. I can still turn my hips straight and angled to the right and I feel really stable and have full range of motion, but is this wrong??? I have no local riders that I know off :/ when I started riding about 4 months ago I really preferred off road riding and was definitely standing more square but I finally had some free time labor day so I went to the mtn bike park and had a pretty meh time of it. I definitely handled the obstacles better but I thought with the experience I have I would've handled it better. It was really awkward the first time I went on a really swoopy run where the turns weren't flat. I hate to say that I prefer street riding now but on the road I feel 100% comfortable and confident and I think its what's really made my stance so off. It helps to be that angle to see traffic and whatnot idek. I ride an mten4 for reference I've been riding to work 5 days a week 15mi each time for the last 2 and a half months now (1376.0mi). I feel accomplished and I'm trying to contain my excitement for buying a new wheel. Is my stance wrong thou?
When I started I also did not move my feet at all and now I can adjust them while I'm moving at speed; so when I get on my feet are square and then I end up turning them. The only "problem" I've had is taking a decent left hand turn is awkward so I have to slow down and understear somewhat so I've been trying pointing them the other way but we'll see
You have been riding for just long enough that I believe your stance to be fueled by actual needs and preferences. My guide is aimed for beginners who simply don’t know how the feet should be for even to be able to ride. Using the Mten might also provide an abnormal stance. So I don’t think you have anything to worry about as long as your stance doesn’t disturb steering or braking.
@@mrelwood_EUC quite the opposite and that's what worried me the most. I didn't want to work a habit that wasn't a good habit but I find it to be really stable. It might be because I can't grip the wheel with my knees. I also watched your videos about ride modes and I didnt realize in medium soft you could move the pedals. I always thought they were supposed to always be flat. The only time I've gotten floppy pedals was riding at low battery. I ride in medium because I found hard to be too easy to over lean although it was a long time I set it so maybe I'd like it better now. Its just not fast enough for me currently.
@@mrelwood_EUC I'm happy to say I rode into work facing right for about half the trip and it went very well. I thought it might take a few blocks to get stable but nope. This'll help with left turns. If I can swap between the two with ease I will feel really great about my stance. Cheers for the support!
You ride quite a lot per month. I think at this point you have your habits built up. Are they bad? Most probaly half of them hahaha After watching some YT I started thinking that same road, same situations makes you ride in the same posture. Especially if you ride alone you go into this same situations and you stop leveling up your ride ability. Thus I started changing my route, going offroad, twisty roads, etc. Different situations you know. Sometimes try slalom, sometimes fast speed and so on. Doing this FORCES you to use different postures and feet locations. Just try, you would feel the need for making changes depending on your road conditions. With each try and change give it some time though. If you are used to riding one way it is hard to change it or even see if it worth it or not the other way. In the end there is no right or wrong way. There are different ways for different situations. Each EUC is different, not all feet are equal, shoes do matter too!
i have a question and its out of topic, just got back from market (3.3km) with my v11, its nightime here but still hot outside, since u have it for a long time can u tell me what is the normal temperature of motherboard/moss and where would be the upper limit? On app its showing 63C so I'm a little worried what will happen on slightly longer drives in the sun? Btw I tried several positions but I didn't give them more time to have a realistic conclusion, it was immediately noticeable that the extra foot in the front relieves the pressure and it is more easy to accelerate like balance +2, but it didn't give me a feeling of security when stopping and I returned to the comfort zone but I'll try again tomorrow :) Thanks in advance !
The temperature warning thresholds were mentioned a long time ago, so I don’t remember them exactly. But both board and Mosfet temperature limits were waaaay higher than that. I think both were over 100•C. I only watched mine for a while back then, and stopped monitoring them when I noticed that I can’t get anywhere near that high. Anyway, the wheel will warn you if any temperature is getting close to being too high. It will then tilt back you to stop.
Inmotion wheels seems to have pretty good safety features (one of the things I got 2nd inmotion, not another make). I am trying to leave my EUC in the shades when not riding but while riding just go for it. 60 degrees is not that much for electronics these days imo. As for the feet position - I got the same problem with feeling secure with one leg ahead. I got used to it in time and now I am even more secured. How I did it is move your back leg as close to the EUC and push a little bit back wit it. Meaning you lean and push with ur body, your ahead leg pushes forward, but your back leg pushes like 15-20% of that force backward. It reaaaaaly makes difference , expecially high speeds and offroad
@@skan8 Haha! 🤣 You do have some aspects of it somewhat thereabouts, and I could’ve maybe done it a bit like Paul Robeson back when I was singing in a choir a long time ago. Nowadays I can no longer keep up a classical technique like that though. But the tonal range is correct! This actually almost makes me share a recent happy birthday presentation I made for my brother… Almost! czcams.com/video/gtMZBlo9Gx0/video.html
As an experienced rider, my observation has led me to different conclusions. For initial learning to avoid foot pain, you're probably on the money, but I've found you need to move away from that and build up muscle to get any skills past low-mid speed commuting. For high speed stability, cornering and speed wobbles, you need your upper leg back behind the centre line (wheel axle) as this rearward bias of your leg's clamping force damps oscillations. Flying bodes have a similar concept, the centre of pressure needs to be behind the centre of mass for a self stabilising effect. The other factor is advanced power pads and spiked pedals, with both of these you can apply a torque to the wheel rather than adjusting weight forward and backwards on the pedal. In fact, when done right, your foot pedal interface should be experiencing noticeable shear forces. During cruising weight can be transferred down via the acceleration pads taking pressure off of your feet. For foot pain mitigation: carving, foot shifting and other strategies that promote blood flow and muscle activation in the feet and calves help. My favourite is pushing and pulling against a railing off and on the euc while facing it, just be careful what your euc can withstand and heat buildup.
I found that learning seated riding has saved my feet and knees on longer trips. I get home in a much better state. For example, doing different Caminos de Santiago, I found I could relax and enjoy the views while on the road riding seated, and then have renewed energy and have fun on the off-road parts.
@@vince7245suspension? For me a 4hour ride is the norm with a food break. I think the backwards bias is like tow in on a car, you want enough that it self centres but not enough to induce powerful tram tracking. I went too far back and built up my muscles then moved my pads forward so I was still getting the benefits but the tram tracking was almost gone.
@@timwatterson8060 I have a V12HT. I recently tried a Patton, and I think that the suspension could be a knee saver, and I'd like to get a suspension wheel one day. The most distance I've managed to do in one day is 145km, with breaks of course. Generally our group rides have got to around the 100km mark in one day. We stop for drinks and lunch and make a day of it. On my own I go anywhere between 30km to 70km depending on the day and what kind of ride I feel like doing.
I think that for a EUC without suspension, this option does not work very well. Since I often have to ride off-road (Russian roads), I need a good support on my fingers so that my back does not hurt from frequent bumps on the road and jumps. To make it clearer - try to make a jump (without EUC) without landing on your fingers.
I assume by “fingers” you mean toes. Riding off-road and doing jumps is not what beginners are doing. And doing it with a non-suspension wheel isn’t what experienced riders are doing either. So while your uncommon technique might be the best band-aid for your very specific individual situation, I don’t think it has any merit to lead to a generic recommendation.
how is no one talking about how this guy is like discount euro brendan fraiser? the middle part from the 90s and everything. To not make this a pure shit post, i ride with my left slightly in front of my right, just always did.
I know, I also heard it as “food” when watching the final edit, but it would’ve just been too much hassle to reshoot. Besides, that definitely wasn’t the biggest issue of this video!! 😂
Ah yes. I love these feet positioning videos especially as beginners. The reality is this, just ride your damn wheel. After about 1000 miles, all of this problem will feel like a beginners joke for you. Ride. Just ride.
There is a lot of good intent in your technique as well. Problem is that some issues with some riders do not solve themselves, and getting to 1k miles can be literally impossible. I think it’s better to get use of the knowledge we have and be rid of beginner issues at 150 miles instead of everyone having to reinvent the wheel themselves.
This is great advice. I'd like to briefly add two things: power pads, which assist how your lower leg grips an EUC and significantly enhance braking and acceleration; and staggered stance - not aligning your feet perpendicular, but rather riding with one foot forward and one foot back. You can alternate to mitigate fatigue, but mainly, the staggered stance provides you a strong brake foot and a strong acceleration foot.
Thank you for this analysis. The force vector diagrams helped a lot. I will be using these teachings as I learn how to ride.
Glad it was helpful!
Just the info I've been looking for, I really enjoy the technical aspects of your channel and am learning lots about EUC's. Keep up the good work and content!
That’s nice to hear, thank you Tommy!
Great content, thanks! Be safe!
To start I have power pads. Riding the Sherman og, my first wheel and with >2500 miles on it I still play with different stances. Sometimes I accelerate with one foot and may or may not have an offset footing as your viewers comment. It is my one foot that just remains flat except in braking I lean back on both rear power pads. Additionally, I like to find the edge of the pedals and ride them as wide as I can while still feeling I won’t slip off. Bending your knees actually helps with directional control as well. Most times I end up going back to the even stance and my toes are off of the front of the pedals. Never do I escape the hard braking wobble so that throws my game off a bit nothing to brag about and it is scary so I always add turning because breaking hard with a turn is usually because of a car in my path. What I got from you video may help in consideration of foot placement and that is the ball and heal of your foot but I have great rides with weight on my toes absorbing uneven sidewalks where i actually keep contact with the pedals really well as I just bounce up to my toes (I don’t have the power pads set up for my feet to be locked in).
Wow! Just the video I was looking after riding today. I feel like I can finally ride up and down the street, but I felt more tired than I expected and felt a lot of soreness in my knees that I have never felt before. And as you said, the longer I rode the more I wobbled. Felt so weird because I thought I was doing better. I'm gonna try moving my feet one inch up and see if this positioning helps! Thank you!
An inch is a long way when it comes to your feet. I suggest trying moving in 0.5 inch steps, if not smaller.
Power pads are best but it is a good point.
Appreciate the advice filled video. Just picked up my first euc after riding an electric skateboard for a year 😄
First EUC. Oh man, NOW the FUN for you starts :)
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks so much for explaining fully what I have been playing around with. I'm 71 and just got my first wheel, a v12, and have a hundred miles on it. High speed wobbles are my nemesis but have dealt with them so far. I will definitely try the foot position you advocate next time out. You may have saved me from crashing at the max speed of my wheel! Thanks again.
While this positioning could help with your wobbles, I think that you owe it to yourself that you practice the methods needed to take the wobble under control if it indeed starts to get out of hand.
Lean into the wheel with one leg only. Carve tightly left and right, even just for a very short distance. Some people find help from braking hard while sitting down to an invisible chair, and so on. Downright squeezing the wheel is often very harmful though.
There are other techniques listed at the EUC forum, you just need to search for the relevant topics.
@mrelwood_EUC thank you again. I will take your suggestions and apply them
Hi David, when my wheel is over 30 psi I am guaranteed to wobble when braking on a downhill street. My ideal psi is between 26 and 28 even if the tire wears out a lot: I don't care!
Absolutely invaluable info right here! Thank you. Exactly the info I was looking for. Subscribed
Thanks, Drogan! Glad it was helpful. 😊👍
Most helpful, I will. follow your guidance. 6 pac Gord
Hopefully you’ll find a position that fits you well!
Thanks for the video, havent seen this info covered anywhere else.
Thanks! Yeah, my main motive for making videos is usually to cover stuff that others haven’t.
Glad to know that the slightly-forward positioning of my feet is actually ideal! I'm glad I saw this video, as if I ever try to teach someone else how to ride, I can pass it on.
There you go, you already got it! 👍
Nice content, thx!
Was just looking for info on this. I've been really enjoying your content. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Reed!
Thx
Excellent explanation of foot positioning 👍 Thank you & Keep up the great work! 🙏
Awesome video thanks very informative!
Thanks, Rocker!
Bro you could read books you got a cool voice. Ty for the tips I am a new Enthusiast.
Haha! Thanks! 😄
Great info!
Thanks, Tomtu!
Great video and you are exactly right 👍
Thank you! Glad you liked it. 😊👍
cool infos
Quality content ! My daugter 6y ride mten4 and via intercom i tell her often to reposition feet when we go downhill she need heel on edge footplate/pedal if not she panic DAD i cant BRAKE efectively! Personaly i prefer efortless aceleration position and for braking i use "sofa sit braking". Nylonove is my footplate and hard army type shoes i not ride in casual boots becasue casual have 0% protection fingers in case of crash and slide on asphalt!
I’m sure small feet have problems getting leverage from the pedals, so having to move the feet makes sense. A staggered stance could also work, having the other more front, the other back a bit.
I also sit down for harder braking. It works well. I use shoes that give my ankles some protection in a crash. Seen too many damaged ankles from a crash on pavement.
With time i moves forward, starting from centre. Experience and speed really needs that. But in addition I started moving one of my feet even forward than the other for better stability with my bigger wheel.
Nowadays my toes are often not even on the pedals
I decided not go into offset or sideways foot positionings on this video, since it’s a bit of an endless world to dive into. But I actually should’ve mentioned that with time many riders do explore the offset and other positionings, and at that point it’s a fully personal thing.
Yea it's a fun thing to experiment with. Acceleration with one leg and braking with the other 😅
@@mrelwood_EUC to be honest with my newer EUC (V10F) I was reaaaly struggling in the beggining coming from V5F. It was heavy and do whatever it wanted and so on. So I watched YT on advanced techniques and started riding with left foot far forward.
Since then I am having issues to ride as I did before - both legs to be equal, and I do not know why hahaha
I am not sure if you said it in the video but different speeds, different terrains need different posture and where your legs go. So changing posture and legs is quite essential for other than flat pavement imo
@@sampolainen uuuhh do you do that?
I do not. I am using both legs for both actions. I am not sure how separating the actions between the legs would make me faster, stable or whatever.
BUUUT i feel quite more stable if I push forward with my forward leg and keep the backend stable with my back leg.
It is like pushing ahead but at the same time having some pressure on the back. Makes it quite more stable i found out, especially in faster pace or loose rocks
@@KaliKavala I don’t know why different riding conditions would require different fit positions. Can you describe why you think that?
Dude could have a great career as a voice actor
I appreciate the insight and I agree, but it probably should be noted that this is, I'm assuming, on an EUC without power pads. We still need a stance that mitigates wobbles but braking is less of an issue when power pads are available.
Power pads don’t really affect your Center of Gravity, at least not enough to matter much in this context. For braking, you’re right, a forward standing position can be compensated easier. But even then, pads positioned for a rearward shoe position are easier to brake with than pads for a forward shoe position. This also comes down to the CoG: If your shoes are more forward, so is your CoG, and you need to lean further back to have the same deceleration rate. But you are right in it being somewhat “less of an issue”.
Please make a video on how should one try to fall when crashing with minimal damage .
Wow, what a topic! Unfortunately I don’t know enough about it to make a video worth watching.
czcams.com/video/WcQN0E_FiI8/video.htmlsi=nmBKusPvC7_qqm3m
The only think I know about it is - jump from the EUC and do not care for it. I've hit myself so many times while trying to save it while I fall or mess something. And it huuuuurts. So just leave it and jump off it :D
Very good advice!
I find I almost always have one foot slightly more forward on the pedal than the other, using the more forward foot slightly more as the “accelerator” and the other slightly more as the “brake” and switching which foot is which (not concisely, just if I examine what I end up doing)
Yeah, quite a few people do that. I guess I should’ve mentioned that in the video, but I wanted to keep it approachable to beginners. They really don’t need to examine a staggered position just yet. Everybody will eventually find their personal pose.
after 25000 km im completly forward foot position XD ,its a little bit danger but im not tired at all even after 30 km no stop
dude you should get a job @Dr. Scholl's thats how good your knowledge is with foot ergonomics 💪
I’m not sure which all parts of your comment was a joke… 🤣 But I decide to take it as a compliment either way. Thank you Jimmy, that is too kind! 😁
Many thanks for this explanation. Perhaps could you give us some tips to avoid/reduce the entering in wobble ? ✌️👏
In addition to the tips in the video, it’s important to have the wheel setup properly and to ride with relaxed but not tired legs. For the wheel setup, make sure the suspension sag is correct (~30%) and that the tire is at 25-35 psi. For ride mode, medium (40-70%) is less exhausting than hard (70-100%).
On my wheel, I can adjust the forward and aft pedal angle, which I think will be important for me to play with if I'm moving my feet forward.
Most of the how to ride video mention ride with feet centered, but don't explain it well, causing some to think it means shoes centered. Your video clarifies this issue.
For wobbles, it helps to bend more at the knees and put some pressure on the upper pads, so there is some anti-twisting leverage between a rider's feet on the pedals, and the riders legs more forwards on the upper pedals. However, a lot of knee bend is fatiguing. For advanced riders, riding seated also avoid wobbles. For one youtuber who is so bow-legged that he can't touch the upper pads without a struggle, he lowers tire pressure to avoid wobbles, and doesn't do drops like dropping off curbs to avoid rim damage when using the lower tire pressure.
My intent wasn’t to touch the general subject of having wobbles and how to mitigate them. I only explained how mispositioned feet can cause wobbles.
again excellent explanation, will try that right now :)
Tnx
I noticed this especially when wearing regular shoes I have a very strange riding position and I'm not entirely sure when or why I developed this. I will ride with my left foot at about a 45 degree angle pointed left with my toes hanging off the pedal and my right foot at about half the angle, also pointed left almost like a skateboard. I can still turn my hips straight and angled to the right and I feel really stable and have full range of motion, but is this wrong??? I have no local riders that I know off :/ when I started riding about 4 months ago I really preferred off road riding and was definitely standing more square but I finally had some free time labor day so I went to the mtn bike park and had a pretty meh time of it. I definitely handled the obstacles better but I thought with the experience I have I would've handled it better. It was really awkward the first time I went on a really swoopy run where the turns weren't flat. I hate to say that I prefer street riding now but on the road I feel 100% comfortable and confident and I think its what's really made my stance so off. It helps to be that angle to see traffic and whatnot idek. I ride an mten4 for reference I've been riding to work 5 days a week 15mi each time for the last 2 and a half months now (1376.0mi). I feel accomplished and I'm trying to contain my excitement for buying a new wheel. Is my stance wrong thou?
When I started I also did not move my feet at all and now I can adjust them while I'm moving at speed; so when I get on my feet are square and then I end up turning them. The only "problem" I've had is taking a decent left hand turn is awkward so I have to slow down and understear somewhat so I've been trying pointing them the other way but we'll see
You have been riding for just long enough that I believe your stance to be fueled by actual needs and preferences. My guide is aimed for beginners who simply don’t know how the feet should be for even to be able to ride. Using the Mten might also provide an abnormal stance. So I don’t think you have anything to worry about as long as your stance doesn’t disturb steering or braking.
@@mrelwood_EUC quite the opposite and that's what worried me the most. I didn't want to work a habit that wasn't a good habit but I find it to be really stable. It might be because I can't grip the wheel with my knees. I also watched your videos about ride modes and I didnt realize in medium soft you could move the pedals. I always thought they were supposed to always be flat. The only time I've gotten floppy pedals was riding at low battery. I ride in medium because I found hard to be too easy to over lean although it was a long time I set it so maybe I'd like it better now. Its just not fast enough for me currently.
@@mrelwood_EUC I'm happy to say I rode into work facing right for about half the trip and it went very well. I thought it might take a few blocks to get stable but nope. This'll help with left turns. If I can swap between the two with ease I will feel really great about my stance. Cheers for the support!
You ride quite a lot per month. I think at this point you have your habits built up. Are they bad? Most probaly half of them hahaha
After watching some YT I started thinking that same road, same situations makes you ride in the same posture. Especially if you ride alone you go into this same situations and you stop leveling up your ride ability.
Thus I started changing my route, going offroad, twisty roads, etc. Different situations you know. Sometimes try slalom, sometimes fast speed and so on. Doing this FORCES you to use different postures and feet locations. Just try, you would feel the need for making changes depending on your road conditions.
With each try and change give it some time though. If you are used to riding one way it is hard to change it or even see if it worth it or not the other way.
In the end there is no right or wrong way. There are different ways for different situations. Each EUC is different, not all feet are equal, shoes do matter too!
😀
i have a question and its out of topic, just got back from market (3.3km) with my v11, its nightime here but still hot outside, since u have it for a long time can u tell me what is the normal temperature of motherboard/moss and where would be the upper limit?
On app its showing 63C so I'm a little worried what will happen on slightly longer drives in the sun?
Btw I tried several positions but I didn't give them more time to have a realistic conclusion, it was immediately noticeable that the extra foot in the front relieves the pressure and it is more easy to accelerate like balance +2, but it didn't give me a feeling of security when stopping and I returned to the comfort zone but I'll try again tomorrow :) Thanks in advance !
The temperature warning thresholds were mentioned a long time ago, so I don’t remember them exactly. But both board and Mosfet temperature limits were waaaay higher than that. I think both were over 100•C. I only watched mine for a while back then, and stopped monitoring them when I noticed that I can’t get anywhere near that high.
Anyway, the wheel will warn you if any temperature is getting close to being too high. It will then tilt back you to stop.
Inmotion wheels seems to have pretty good safety features (one of the things I got 2nd inmotion, not another make). I am trying to leave my EUC in the shades when not riding but while riding just go for it. 60 degrees is not that much for electronics these days imo.
As for the feet position - I got the same problem with feeling secure with one leg ahead. I got used to it in time and now I am even more secured. How I did it is move your back leg as close to the EUC and push a little bit back wit it. Meaning you lean and push with ur body, your ahead leg pushes forward, but your back leg pushes like 15-20% of that force backward. It reaaaaaly makes difference , expecially high speeds and offroad
Dude , you should pursue a singing career !
You can tell my singing voice from my speech?? 🤣
I bet you're in the ballpark range of something like "Ol' man river" @@mrelwood_EUC
@@skan8 Haha! 🤣 You do have some aspects of it somewhat thereabouts, and I could’ve maybe done it a bit like Paul Robeson back when I was singing in a choir a long time ago. Nowadays I can no longer keep up a classical technique like that though. But the tonal range is correct!
This actually almost makes me share a recent happy birthday presentation I made for my brother… Almost!
czcams.com/video/gtMZBlo9Gx0/video.html
I found a wonderfull version with William Warfield
czcams.com/video/UMSidClnKps/video.html@@mrelwood_EUC
this guy got more bass in his voice than my headphones could handle
Hahahahaaaa! (With a demonic monstrously deep room fulfilling voice…)
Ps. Get better headphones. 😜
As an experienced rider, my observation has led me to different conclusions. For initial learning to avoid foot pain, you're probably on the money, but I've found you need to move away from that and build up muscle to get any skills past low-mid speed commuting. For high speed stability, cornering and speed wobbles, you need your upper leg back behind the centre line (wheel axle) as this rearward bias of your leg's clamping force damps oscillations. Flying bodes have a similar concept, the centre of pressure needs to be behind the centre of mass for a self stabilising effect. The other factor is advanced power pads and spiked pedals, with both of these you can apply a torque to the wheel rather than adjusting weight forward and backwards on the pedal. In fact, when done right, your foot pedal interface should be experiencing noticeable shear forces. During cruising weight can be transferred down via the acceleration pads taking pressure off of your feet.
For foot pain mitigation: carving, foot shifting and other strategies that promote blood flow and muscle activation in the feet and calves help. My favourite is pushing and pulling against a railing off and on the euc while facing it, just be careful what your euc can withstand and heat buildup.
I found that learning seated riding has saved my feet and knees on longer trips. I get home in a much better state.
For example, doing different Caminos de Santiago, I found I could relax and enjoy the views while on the road riding seated, and then have renewed energy and have fun on the off-road parts.
@@vince7245suspension? For me a 4hour ride is the norm with a food break. I think the backwards bias is like tow in on a car, you want enough that it self centres but not enough to induce powerful tram tracking. I went too far back and built up my muscles then moved my pads forward so I was still getting the benefits but the tram tracking was almost gone.
@@timwatterson8060 I have a V12HT. I recently tried a Patton, and I think that the suspension could be a knee saver, and I'd like to get a suspension wheel one day.
The most distance I've managed to do in one day is 145km, with breaks of course. Generally our group rides have got to around the 100km mark in one day. We stop for drinks and lunch and make a day of it. On my own I go anywhere between 30km to 70km depending on the day and what kind of ride I feel like doing.
I think that for a EUC without suspension, this option does not work very well. Since I often have to ride off-road (Russian roads), I need a good support on my fingers so that my back does not hurt from frequent bumps on the road and jumps. To make it clearer - try to make a jump (without EUC) without landing on your fingers.
I assume by “fingers” you mean toes.
Riding off-road and doing jumps is not what beginners are doing. And doing it with a non-suspension wheel isn’t what experienced riders are doing either. So while your uncommon technique might be the best band-aid for your very specific individual situation, I don’t think it has any merit to lead to a generic recommendation.
Am I the only one who first read food poisoning on an euc? 😂
how is no one talking about how this guy is like discount euro brendan fraiser? the middle part from the 90s and everything. To not make this a pure shit post, i ride with my left slightly in front of my right, just always did.
Don’t worry, I’ve heard that before… 😝
Food position? Ah...you mean "foot"😂
I know, I also heard it as “food” when watching the final edit, but it would’ve just been too much hassle to reshoot. Besides, that definitely wasn’t the biggest issue of this video!! 😂
@@mrelwood_EUC lol... that's the way it goes. By the way: great voice👍
@@vitus6762 Thanks! Made it myself! 😄
Ah yes. I love these feet positioning videos especially as beginners. The reality is this, just ride your damn wheel. After about 1000 miles, all of this problem will feel like a beginners joke for you. Ride. Just ride.
There is a lot of good intent in your technique as well. Problem is that some issues with some riders do not solve themselves, and getting to 1k miles can be literally impossible. I think it’s better to get use of the knowledge we have and be rid of beginner issues at 150 miles instead of everyone having to reinvent the wheel themselves.
@@mrelwood_EUC agreed. And thank you for making this video!