How-to: Double-DIN stereo on NB Miata (Bypass BOSE)
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2019
- How to install a Sony XAV-AX1000 in a 1999 Miata with factory Bose sound system.
Part 1 Overview: 0:04
Part 2 Wiring Harness: 2:55
Part 3 Bose Amp Bypass: 11:43
Part 4 Cable Management: 12:39
Reverse light signal tap location: photos.app.goo.gl/84DZj8prZDC...
Parts used:
Sony XAV-AX1000: amzn.to/2VA9ozb
Mazda stereo harness adaptor: amzn.to/2GQIYRJ
Reverse camera: amzn.to/2VvBI5P
DIN removal tools: amzn.to/2XOonTC
Double-DIN dash kit: amzn.to/2DCksS5
Sealed solder connectors: amzn.to/2XTJ5lc
Toggle Switch: amzn.to/2DBUUVf
Music: www.bensound.com
Thank you so much for this video. Your method of jumping the BOSE amp connector is far more convenient and posterity secure than simply splicing the wires. I did this on my 2000 Miata LS. Now time to run an amp! Thank you so much :)
Thank you! I'm about to replace my factory radio & tape deck with a "modern" double-din. I especially appreciate the how-to with the antenna switch! Thanks again.
Thank you! Your video is very helpful. I will try out what you did this weekend.
Thanks for the video I'm thinking of putting a new head unit in my 10AE also.
good video good job and thanks for refreshing my memory on this. but just FYI you have the jumpers pined out of phase
Great video!
I have an NB1 and installed the exact same AX1000 Sony head unit.
I am using the factory Bose speakers so I connected the blue HU(headunit) wire to both the power antenna (blue) and amp (blue/white) on the metra wire. I have the shorty antenna but to get the signal boost it needed that power.
Also for the ground, I ended up using a end plug with an o ring and grounded it to the metal frame on the inside. Is that okay? I didn’t even think to find a spade connecter to use that factory ground wire.
Did you have any problems with the way you wired up dimmer and illumination?
I love how the title of the video is the one thing that isn’t in the video. The unit magically appears mounted in the location . I’m having trouble finding clips to secure it tightly, the adapters my unit came with are too narrow so the head unit is loose
Well, the Metra dash kit I used was so self-explanatory, I didn't include it in the video. At 1:54, I showed the adapter bracket screwed to the stereo, and that whole assembly just pushes into the hole in the dash and clips into place. It's been in there over a year now with no issues. There's a link in the description to the exact dash kit I used, and it's been great.
The hard part is knowing how to install the reverse camera, bypass the amp, and installing the powered antenna switch.
Fortner Industries yes, please tell us the model of the Metra kit you used for the NB MX-5. Thanks
@@milesbizzell8811 Metra 99-7505. I obviously didn't use the included single-DIN tray, but it works with either single or double-DIN.
great video! I have the 2002 nb version with bose as well. I like the sony look but leaning more towards the pioneer. will the Pioneer - 6.2" - Apple CarPlay - Bluetooth fit in the miata? Best Buy is saying none of the double din head units will fit.
Hmm, not sure why Best Buy would say that. It's a standard double-DIN slot, though you do have to cut a small divider in the OEM trim that separates the upper and lower factory audio units, so maybe that's what they're referring to. Once you cut that strip, any double-DIN should fit, and that strip doesn't serve any real purpose, so if you wanted to install the old decks in again, you could.
Did you replace the stock Bose speakers? I’m assuming so since the impedance wouldn’t match. I have this Sony head unit on order and haven’t decided if I’m going to keep the rest stock or not.
The previous owner did, yes. They were replaced with Kicker speakers after the Bose speakers failed, so there are technically no BOSE parts in use anymore.
how to connect two cables for the antenna if the switch has three inputs, I did it and it doesn't work, how do I connect the third input
So I installed a Sony head unit very similar to yours but it’s the 1000 model not the 100. And It worked fine. No bypass or anything. But now the Bose speakers have failed and I suspect it might be because of the head unit and the amp working together, so I was confused why so many people were talking about bypassing the amp when mine worked just fine with everything plugged in…
So since the factory Bose speakers are now shot then now I actually have to install speakers and I think the Bose amp sends a 5ohm signal to the speakers and most aftermarket speakers are 4 or 6 ohm not 5 so it makes sense now that you would want to bypass it…
However my question is. Can you actually just skip the amp and play the speakers off of the head unit? Does the head unit have an amp built in?
If you do the Bose amplifier bypass, then yes, your speakers will be powered from the aftermarket head unit, which does have a small amplifier for component speakers.
It would be nice if you showed us where you tied in the reverse wire.
Sorry for the delay. I simply used a vampire clip onto the reverse light wire on the right side taillight harness. It's the red/yellow wire.
I added a photo link in the video description.
So I’m going to try to fix the Bose “midrange” speakers to hold up a bit longer before replacing. That said, what is the downside or plus to keeping that Bose amp plugged in after a new head unit is installed? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If you leave the BOSE amp plugged in, you will be sending an already amplified signal to the BOSE amp which then amplifies the signal again. Great way to blow out your speakers in a big hurry, and you'll have basically zero volume control on the head unit.
Also, BOSE speakers have a really low impedance (typically 2ohm or LESS for door speakers), so I doubt you'll be able to find a set of aftermarket midranges that will work properly with the factory BOSE amp. My car had a pair of Kickers installed before I replaced the head unit and those kind of worked, but they were 6ohm I believe so the BOSE amp wasn't able to fully power them.
Bypassing the BOSE amp fixes all of these issues and really isn't hard to do.
Fortner Industries finally able to bypass it and put some 80rms 6.5” Kenwood components. It was hard to find 8” component set with tweeters that fit the stock location. Sound decent but my head unit kinda sucks lol putting an amp in soon and hoping to run new wires to the doors so I don’t have to deal with the Bose and radio harness plug nightmare lol thank you for your response bro!
@@fortnerindustries Clearwater audio has a kit that is designed to work with the bose amp.
So a little bit confused
Why do I need to bypass the amp with jumpers if I remove the amp and stock speaker system to replace with an aftermarket "sub" and tweeter?
2) this entire thing confuses me and I'm just trying to figure it out any help is SUPER appreciated
If you don't have the factory Bose audio system, you have nothing to bypass, so ignore the jumpers.
If you DO have the factory Bose audio system, and you're dead set on removing the factory amp, then you don't need to jumper anything either, just remove the amp. The problem is the factory Bose audio amplifier is separate from the Bose head unit, and is buried underneath all of the HVAC controls, making it very difficult to remove, or at least far more difficult that a typical double-DIN stereo install would be. You'll need to remove most of the car's dashboard to get at it, and most people choose to leave it in there and bypass it.
If you're adding a subwoofer, you'll need to add a subwoofer amplifier to your setup. I wanted to maintain a fully stock appearance other than the head unit, so I only changed the speakers in the doors, and did not add any kind of subwoofer.
This is a very straightforward stereo install other than the weird quirk with jumpering the Bose amplifier, but if you have a specific question, I'll do my best to help.
@@fortnerindustries so i removed my factory amp it is a pain without the dash out but i just removed the stereo and hvac controls. 4 bolts undo the amp from the bracket, 2 more 10mm removes the bracket, and one more 10mm for a factory ground. Bend the amp housing and push out through passenger footwell. Sounds reletively easy but took almost 5 or 6 hours 😂😂
So what do i need to do wiring wise from here if i just want to change door speakers
@@pulsartech2945 In that case, you still need to jumper this harness or modify the one you pulled out with the amp as this one harness has both the amplifier inputs (coming from the stock head unit) and the amplifier outputs (coming from the amplier) to your speakers. The work is the same as I showed as with the amplifier disconnected, you still need to connect the inputs and outputs across this plug. However, with the amplifier removed, you can use the female connector on the amplifier board to wire your own jumper socket, or just do what I showed.
@@fortnerindustries Ok let me get this straight. I have "BOSS" aftermarket audio system its a 4 way speaker system. I want to install an aftermarket stereo called "BOSS". Is bypassing the bose amp necessary?
@@WorstPaperCut Yes. If you install ANY aftermarket stereo or amplifier on a Miata with the factory BOSE sound system, you should bypass the BOSE amp.
why did you put a switch on the ant. it doesn't go up and down on it's own?
I explain this at 5:30. The radio antenna needs a signal from the radio to know when to go up and down. On the factory radio, there is a wire that gives a 12V signal to the antenna motor controller telling it to raise when the radio is turned on. If you're only listening to a CD or something, the aerial stays down (no antenna needed).
By adding a switch, I can raise the antenna when I listen to the radio (hardly ever), but otherwise I keep the switch off, and it stays down when I'm using CarPlay.
I get no sound from my Miata after my new double din any help?
It could be any of a number of things. Start with checking your wiring.
🙋Hello I was having trouble finding the color coded diagram for Bose amp 24 pin connector. I want to bypass the amp & use the wires on the connector cut them & splice them together so that the speakers are hooked directly to the aftermarket stereo using the existing wire harness that's already there but because I can't find the diagram. I don't know which wires to cut & splice together. I was hoping you might be able to help I wrote the pin layout & colors down here they are👍😁👌 Bose Amp Connector 24 Pin layout Wire Color Identification
Top: Left to right
A1- BLACK
A2- YELLOW
A3- DARK BLUE
A4- LIGHT BLUE
A5- TAN
A6- GREY
A7- LIGHT GREEN
A8- DARK GREEN
A9- NOT USED
A10- NOT USED
A11- NOT USED
A12- NOT USED
Bottom: Left to right
B1- GREY/BLACK
B2- PURPLE
B3- BLACK
B4- DARK BLUE
B5- GREEN/WHITE
B6- BROWN
B7- RED/BLACK
B8- LIGHT GREEN
B9- DARK GREEN
B10- TAN
B11- PINK
B12- ??? LOOKS LIKE GROUND WIRE
Your help & masterful expertise would be greatly appreciated thanks🙏😎👌
Honestly, I recommend the bypass I show in the video. If you put the jumper wires in the BOSE pigtail like I showed, that effectively does the exact same thing you're describing, but with no cutting involved. The jumper method fully bypasses the BOSE amp using its own wiring harness, so there's nothing to cut/splice.
I'm not a car audio expert by any means, I just used a lot of different writeups from across the internet, and then compiled them into my own build. This video is showing what I did.
Cool thanks for letting me know I appreciate it👍😁😎😄👌
@@fortnerindustries Can you show a diagram of your amp connector jumpers. 2 of them are kind of hard to see where they go.
Parking brake wire does what?
My memory is fuzzy now, but you typically need the parking brake engaged to allow video playback (so you can't play movies while the car is moving, per US laws).
@@fortnerindustrieshow do you bypass that? Or more to the point does the circuit need to be open or closed?