GOLF CLUB RE-SHAFT STEEL TO GRAPHITE / HOW TO
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- čas přidán 2. 11. 2021
- In this video I go step by step through the process of replacing your steel iron shafts with graphite. Topics include swing weight, length, epoxy, and ferrule finishing.
Ferrule Finishing by hand video
• TURNING FERRULES BY HA...
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@MobileClubmaker - Sport
Hey I don't know if you will see this. But this is the realest channel of golf I have ever come across. Always telling how it is, the truth and nothing more. Your videos about beginners really helped me out, helped me look out for certain things and prevented me from making stupid mistakes. Just wanna say you are the best and keep it up!
I do see this. I read every comment. I appreciate the support and am happy to hear that some of my content has been helpful.
Again, thanks for supporting the channel!
Do one with .370 so we get the tipping process. Perhaps a comparison on flex change with varied tipping. Great video 👌
Lovely stuff. Well explained and some great tips.
Magnificent! I love the masking tape on the graphite shaft before turning the ferrule.
Very informative. Saw your video with Matt Fisher and now subscribed to your channel
Great video, man! I'm embarking on a steel to graphite rebuild for the first time and this answered a couple of questions I had. Cheers!
Awesome content, and so nice to see the same build as my own.
Awesome video.. I've always been interested in the club fitting side.. 👍
Thanks. Watch 5 or 10 of my videos and you will be more knowledgable than most professional fitters out there.
Great channel. I've used a .355 spiral reamer to increase the inside diameter of the ferrule. Seems to work quite well most times, but can get a little snug. Also, if I have an old grip of the same kind I will be installing (same weight), I cut it the entire length of the grip right to the end cap. I can easily slide, and tap that onto the butt of the shaft for getting swing weights dialed in for each club. I then lay a piece of grip tape on top of the grip, and even stick a ferrule to the shaft using double sided tape just above the hosel where it normally sits. When I built my irons I tipped my .355 SF 110s 7 iron 0.25" as that was the only one I added tip weight to, and didn't want to soften the tip section of the whole set. Might need a new 7 iron shaft if I ever pull those though.
This was very interesting. I didn't realize that every head has different weights. Nice video.
Thanks for watching. Make sure you subscribe to get more videos on the subject!
Thanks dude. I can benefit from this cause I wanna switch my 4i from steel 90g to graphite 80g
Nice video, I listened to a podcast from the engineer of another brand of graphite shafts , he was adamant about using tungsten powder to add swing weight to avoid snapping the shaft at the hosel when using tip weights on graphite shafts.
If you use the tip weights with the stem, it is a valid concern depending on how far up the stem extends and how shallow the hosel bore is. Can buy weights with rubberized tips to combat this. Can also wrap the tips with masking tape before insertion. Tungsten powder also works but you end of needing to add more total weight to the club to hit a SW number since the powder sits much higher in the shaft.
Awesome.
Really appreciate the way you explain things and walked us through the process.
Nice job. Those shafts looked like they fit snugly into the hosels, so I was
wondering if it was necessary to mix in any beads into your epoxy ?
Can you even use beads on graphite shafts or will they cause damage?
Very informative vid --- good fodder for winter projects. Keep them coming.
Ray, I did use my standard amount of beads. 5% per volume. I see many people using way more than that, which is not ideal as it will reduce bond strength.
At 5% I can use it with every build I do, to just help center the shaft a bit more. You can use it without worry in graphite or steel.
@@EFGMC Thanks, I appreciate your reply and the knowledge
you share with us. Will be looking to take up your suggestion about having a secondary set with softer flex, graphite shafts for those colder early spring and fall days.
Cheers!
I installed a set of Steelfiber I95 Shafts in set of Titleist AP2 irons. When I installed the tip weights I cut cut the shaft tip the distance of the thickness of the shaft weights. I felt that way it wouldn’t change the frequency of the shafts. There were some shafts I didn’t have to cut. The other shafts I cut anywhere from 3/16 to a 1/4” off the tip. I felt doing it this way the tapered shaft would fit better in the hosel with no slop. I did drill an 1/8” hole in the shaft tip to accommodate the stem on the weight tip.
you just changed the shaft flex to all of them by doing this. You never want to tip trim a .355 tapered shaft. If they are Parallel shafts then its ok as they are supposed to be tip trimmed
Just started this video and I hope it will tell me how to measure the steel shafts I am putting in some new heads. I have tipped the shaft according to specs but there's got to be an easier way to measure the length without doing them one at a time and also it is confusing whether you should add 1/8 inch for the grip cap?
I've built my own clubs but I learned a few things watching this video, thank you. Quick question: what did you dip the grip opening into before blowing it onto the shaft?
Standard grip solvent just to get it started over the shaft. Thanks for the support!
I add about 1” of dblesided tape at the shaft butt. Spray with grip solvent. Blow on with my gripping station.
Regarding solvent for still wet epoxy, use denatured alcohol, available in paint section of home improvement stores
One half dozen or the other what you feel comfy with. I don't do my butt cuts until after the epoxy has dried on the heads. The last two steps. Butt cut and installing the grip. nice trick on the hosel weight. Something new learned.
Great video. I use a lot of the exact same equipment in my little shop but I've been on the fence about frequency testing or at least spine testing. Curious about your thoughts. Thanks!
I don't frequency match personally. If you have good quality name brand shafts, measure and adjust all your weights and lengths correctly, the shaft flex will be where it ought to.
I've also done a few videos on or related to shaft alignment (spine, FLO, or SST Pure). Would recommend those videos but the short answer is I don't do any of them.
Thanks for supporting the channel!
@@EFGMC why not? I will be doing the spline (spine) on my 1st steel to graphite build...
Great video. I'm actually taking on my first club build this weekend with a steel to graphite swap on a set of Srixons. I don't have the little weights you installed in the hosel, though, so I'm curious if lead tape on the back of the club would work as an alternative to that? I know it's not as "clean" but appearance isn't as important for me since this is my personal set. I just want to make sure swingweight is consistent. Thanks!
Just look in any random tour bag and you'll have your answer. Lead tape all over the place!
Nice video 👍. When you were sanding the ferrules on the belt there was a dull inch at the bottom of the shaft which had gone when you had finished the clubs. Was that some tape you’d put on there to protect the shaft from the sanding belt?
Correct. Since they are graphite shafts with paint, I like to just add a little protection to them in case I get a little loose with my sanding. Would do the same thing if the iron hosels had a unique finish.
Thanks for your video. It’s very informative. I noticed that when you installed the aerotech fibersteel shaft you had the logo on top. Can I install the shaft with the logo on the side or in any orientation I desired without affecting its performance?
Yes. I usually always install logo down but the bright orange circle designating flex on the back was too distracting for me so I ended up going logo up. Sideways might have been the best option.
Enjoying the videos! I'm currently in the process of changing out my True Temper XP95 steels shafts to Mamiya Recoil graphite shafts. When I pulled out the steel shafts, they all have an indexed metal plug in the tip. Not sure if these are for support or if they are actual swing weights. I bought my Mizuno 919 Hot Metal irons stock options as recommended from my fitting. Not sure why they would have swing weights. I heard OEM do not install swing weights at the factory. I'm stuck right now and won't be installing the graphite shafts until I get this issue resolved. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I would not worry about what was in them before. Weigh all the cleaned out heads and make sure the progression is good. Then you can decide if you need to add tip weights based on the new shafts length, weight, and grips.
Manufacturers will use tip weights by the way. Not sure where you heard otherwise, but I have pulled plenty of off the rack clubs with tip weights in some heads and not others.
Well looks like I need a few more items for my shed... buy sneek and fit
Great video with meticulous work! What solution did you dip the grip into before installing? And I assume you wasted a thicker grip with three tape levels.
Correct on the size. The solution was grip solvent, but you could also use mineral spirits.
I have two sets of Titleist Irons that I would like to switch the shafts in but I'm not to sure how to go about it. I really like your channel and I think you are a Steely-Eyed Missileman the way you explain things. I would really appreciate it if you could give me a few pointers. Or do you think I should have them done at the club fitter that I use in Joplin, Mo.
Thank You for your time.
First off, totally going to start referring to myself as the Steely Eyed Missileman!
As for your project, it's definitely something you can tackle yourself if you have the time. Really one of those things that can vary on time depending on how exact you want to get on swing weight etc.
I would recommend watching these two videos if you haven't.
czcams.com/video/deLFGL9Qjdc/video.html
czcams.com/video/htouThdUbBY/video.html
Your project is really a combination of these two jobs so you can gauge after watching if you want to tackle this yourself or hand it off to someone else.
Really like that heat gun on the ferrule tip. I have always rolled up sandpaper and sanded down the inside surface till I got a fit that the head could force it up onto the shaft. Also I put a very a very small amount epoxy inside the ferrule. Thoughts?
Good method…I install ferrules using my vise, rubber shaft clamp…..do all install at same time….dab epoxy on shaft tip..slide ferrule up…heat for 2-3 secs every 45*…push on with head after any weight tip install, after epoxying both shaft tip and hosel ID….all after cleaning hosel if a head pull.
@@sloswingspeed9535 pretty much what I did. I mixed a very small amount of epoxy with no beads. I put that inside the ferrule, none on shaft tip. Push it up to a point that is within 5mm or so of its final location. Then epoxy with beads on tip and hosel, press
/rotate head to final position.
But I did 5 shafts a couple of days and used the heat/pre-install the ferrule. I still have to sand down the ferrule but everything appears to be fine. Much, much easier than my previous technique.
Love your work mate just started watching your channel.
I have a 3 iron but the steel shaft in it isn't stiff enough for me. I have a spear 60 gram x flex driver shaft which i was fitted for, could i cut that down to 3 iron length and glue that in?
Fan from New Zealand
Appreciate it.
Short answer for your question is no. 3 reasons.
1) Tip diameter is .335 I assume on the wood shaft and .370 on the iron hosel. You could shim this but it's a big gap, and will probably look odd with the tiny shaft going into the large hosel.
2) A driver shaft isn't designed to support the head weight of an iron. Driver heads are 200g, 5 wood is around 220g. 3 iron head is around 240. No way to tip that shaft to support that weight.
3) You will need to cut the shaft down to 3 iron length, and will end up cutting so much butt end that the shaft will taper down so a standard grip won't fit correctly.
Very informative, quick question how you u line up the shafts if you wanted to pure them?
PURE technically requires the shaft being analyzed through the SST PURE process and then installed in their recommended orientation. Of course you can also fake it and just install the shaft with the stiffest plane orientated in the 12-6 o'clock position.
I have a video hopefully coming out next week on the subject of PURE. I would watch for it.
Where do you purchase that small bag of shaft weights? Thank you. I am hoping to do my first build soon and will be using this Awesome how to video. Nicely done. Thank you. Looking forward to watching more videos.
I appreciate the support! I get most of my supplies including weights from Golfworks.
@@EFGMC cool. Thank you
I have been contemplating changing my own grips on my clubs, but every video I have seen uses a different method then the compressed air you use here. I believe some of the videos I have seen are yours using a grip solvent. Is that because of a steel vs graphite shaft or am I just missing something?
Great video. Was that normal masking tape? Would the grip not move while playing?
Yep. Plain masking tape. Most grips will stay on with just masking tape. The tension of the rubber holds them in place. And it makes it very easy to remove them the same way with air.
Awesome Video, A.J. You mentioned that you used collared Ferrules. For me its really hart to get collared Ferrules (.370) in Germany. So you think, it doesnt damage the graphite shaft, when i use non-collared Ferrules?
No. As long as the top of the hosel has a beveled edge, (which almost all OEM heads do) you are fine. Epoxy will fill the space that would otherwise be filled by the collar and do the same thing. If you have a loose fit or you want to mimic a collar, you can use some mesh drywall tape. I do it in this video if you want to see the process.
czcams.com/video/eSdutT5NU40/video.html
When you added the weight to the tip did you do the normal tip trim and then take the 1/4” off the butt ? I’m doing a re shafting now. Total weight of 5 iron was 415g . Went up 5 g every club until the 9, it went up 10 then 5 more for PW. Should I assume I need to add 5 to 5-8 ? By the way, great channel. Thanks for answering the questions I’ve posted so far. PS. I noticed my postal scale when set to grams always ended in 5 or 0 (rounded) so I picked up a new scale from Harbor Freight. Irons are now closer gapped, so won’t be adding weight.
Hi AJ , really enjoying your content. I’ve started to explore club fitting myself. I’m learning so much from your videos. I to am switching from steel to graphite I’m looking for your advice. I’ve taken all the steel shafts out of my heads They are .355 The graphite Aldila Synergy are .370 and don’t fit. Do I ream the hosels with 9.5 bit Or sand lightly to fit
Sanding down to fit is going to be far easier. Always how I do it. No downside.
@@EFGMC thats after tip trimming
@@ultimatejay Correct
love your vids bro! how would you make a shiny chrome irons look less shiny? have any DIY tips? i love my wilsons...but so shiny in the sun cant see the ball! thx brother
You could remove the chrome with grinding or chemicals though this can be dangerous and should probably be left to metal working experts. Could also just start working it with some sand paper/ belt sander. Once the chrome is gone, so is the glare. Just be aware that the metal will start to rust once the chrome is off, so they need to be kept clean and dry if you don't want that patina.
What solvent do you clean the epoxy off of the ferrule and shaft?
Great video!!! Would love to do this with my Callaway Apex Pro 16's. Wondering if the quality is affected vs factory/Callaway installed shafts.
A good builder will be far better in quality than what the OEMs mass produce or even what the tour departments put out these days.
@@EFGMC, thanks so much for your response!
I have a set Triumph irons I bought new in 1988. With each whack my hands scream in pain, even in 2002. It’s time to reshaft and regrip? My local pro shop won’t do it. They say Triumph heads aren’t worth it. I don’t know what magic was put into these heads but no other club can match the performance. I just need stiffer shafts to control the flight. Your input would be appreciated. I have never worked on shafts before.
How would you drill out the tip to accept the tip weight? Is there possibilities with overheating the shaft?
Great video! I'm getting ready to put some Fujikura Pro 95 TS S (0.370 parallel) into AP3s (0.355 taper). Looks like I can sand the graphite down by hand (tedious but effective) to be a tight taper fit. My question is, I have used collared ferrules before when installing these heads into steel shafts, can I use the same ones for the graphite? Will heating them up stretch them enough? If not, what ferrules do you recommend? Thanks for your reply!
You can use the same ones though you might need to sand the inside to get them to fit and warm them up. You never need to use a collared ferrule though so don’t let that influence what ferrule you choose.
Awesome! Thanks! I’ve learned so much from your channel and it has given me the confidence to tackle these projects myself! Can’t beat the feeling of flushing an iron you put together yourself
Is it the same switching from graphite to steel?
Thanks for that AJ, obviously you don’t effect structural integrity of the shaft with them being a 1/4” shorter in the hosel? I’ve see Trottie using centering beads, not really required? I don’t have the weight measuring tools, is that really required, or do you really notice it, seeing the factory clubs came that way? Thanks Ray
1/4 shorter insert depth just makes the shaft play slightly softer. As long as you have at least 1 inch of bonding surface, you should never have an issue with bond strength. Beads are never necessary, I like that they help just get that centered fit but still requires that you have a close fit to start with.
As far as weight tools. If you have a kitchen scale and tape measure, you can get pretty reliable measurements using an online swing weight calculator.
Hi AJ when u add hosel weight, do u always cut the butt end to the target length? Tip weights, especially graphite tip weight has long bottom part, make more space between (when I build) tapered shaft and tapered hosel. In this case do u cut the tip or use more centering bead or shim? Using that shaft to the other heads in mind, not goona cut the tip?
With graphite, I want everything to be consistent so I make sure all the shafts sit at the same depth. Depending on the depth and the shaft being used that can mean just having a shorter insertion depth with the uncut shaft or could mean tipping a 1/4 inch to account for the weight base. I treat on a case by case basis.
Dear Sir, I have a set of old but unused Ping s57 clubs with 125 gram stiff shafts. I wish I could put the regular graphite shafts I have mounted on another set of Ping clubs.
It's possible? If so, I would ask you to tell me how to do it, taking into account that I have to remove the graphite verges from their heads.
Thanks in advance.
Receive greetings
Hi A.J., was wondering if you were going the reverse way, graphite to steel, and there were tip weights in the hosels, how do you remove them? I once pulled a steel shaft and heated it up a bit, the weight came shooting out of there like a bullet. Any better, safer way?
I've for sure had that happen with a projectile launching out of the hosel. Almost always result of too much heat. I will usually heat the hosel like I would to pull the shaft and then get a drill and drill it out. In many cases the drill will eventually catch the weight and pull the whole thing out at once.
Unfortunately sometimes you really do have to just keep drilling until you shred the weight away.
So when adding the spacers/weights in the hosel, you would opt to take the length from the butt of the shaft or would it be okay to take the length from the tip? What is the benefit taking from the butt? Wouldn’t it make the tip a little weaker if you take it from the butt? I’m just trying to thinking this through considering the integrity of the design of the shaft stiffness. Thank you for the excellent content and I look forward to your insight!!
As we are taking a 1/4 inch in either case it's not going to make a huge difference. You are correct that "tipping" the shaft will give us a little stiffer result vs. butt cutting. Really comes down to personal preference. For this set, I was building off the ideas from my previous video about a winter type set including graphite shafts, softer grips, and a little softer flex. If you wanted to keep the shafts "true to their designed flex" then tipping them an equal amount to what you added in weight/spacer length would make sense.
@@EFGMC thank you for your reply. Great video and I’m currently binge watching some of the videos. Since finding you today!!!
@@ocashflo Thanks for your support. Remember to subscribe!
Hi! I just watched this video! I am curies if you liked this Steelfiber shafts? I am currently playing Project X LZ 6.5 and want to play this Steelfiber 110 CW shafts. What flex did you choose? Any feedback? Thanks!!!!
I liked it overall. Went with S and it was plenty stiff. Felt stiffer to me then DG S300 for example.
When turning down the ferries using the belt sander, what grit sandpaper do you use? Thanks.
I use a linen belt or a scotchbrite type polishing belt. Linen is what most clubmakers use. If you were going to use sandpaper it would need to be the highest grit finishing type you could find.
How about reshafting wedges ? I did my irons 1/2” longer so I assume I should do the same in the wedges . 50* Cleveland CBX2 and 56* CBX Full face. Used MMT parallel in the 5-PW and am trying a MMT taper wedge shaft in 50*, not sure if I’ll do the 56* yet.
I would go 1/2 longer on the wedges as well so that everything matches up.
I wanna know how you like hitting those steelfiber 110’s. Thinking about trying them myself
I have liked them so far. They play pretty stiff even with the reduced hosel depth I used from the tip weights. Like the feel off the club from them.
Great video. What are your thoughts about buying shafts on eBay?
Just do your research. There are some really good sellers I buy from but you need to be careful still, especially if you are buying pulls.
its brilliant but i struggle to tie my own shoe laces. good luck
Can weights be put in the graphite butt to make the head feel lighter in a graphite shaft?
Curious,,, after gluing everything up, when putting the shaft in the ferrule had air pressure build up and not let the shaft stay down in hozel. Like the air isnt venting out through the shaft. Maybe too much epoxy?
Is this a graphite shaft or steel, is it a new shaft or used, and are you using tip weights? All of these can cause a pressure build up. Most common is the tip weights with graphite or using a used shaft.
When installing a new steel putter shaft (38" out of the box), how do you determine where (top or bottom) to make your cuts? Aiming for a 35" EOG length
Putter shafts will almost always be butt cut only. The parallel tip section on most putters is very short.
AJ…SFs CWTs are about 4-5butt cpm per 9/16” in length. Since they play stiffer than similar weight steels of same flex….you helped by softening the tip some. Gotta add some epoxy to your hosel weight to insure no rattle depending on the ID/OD match. Use cut off split grips to check SW. most SFs FLO logo down, with small SF logo up. Never installed a SF logo up. Been doing them for ~ 15 years.
I use a split grip to check SW sometimes however the PURE grips have a different raw weight. Also the split grip can sometimes get cut into by the butt end of the shaft when doing SW for steel, thereby shortening the club length and giving the wrong SW.
If you are concerned about FLO, logo up or down makes no difference as you are dealing with a plane of flex. For me the bright orange flex marking was far more distracting than the larger graphics on the other side, thus logo up. I agree, it's a rare occurrence for me to install any shaft logo up.
I have a box of pulled split grips….and yes…grip weights range all over the place…which is why I build mostly to ascending SW/MOI using the GMech unit Mondher designed for TWW. Even weigh 1.5x masking tape to get to projected weights. Using the 3M blue but probably overkill.
Hello, may I ask how do you remove the tip weight when you want to reassemble the club? Many thanks!
Heat the shaft and then use a ram rod going from the grip end to push the tip weight out.
AJ, I am purchasing a set of JPX923 Pro irons with UST Recoil 95 F3 shafts. My current SM8 SW and LW have the original shafts as purchased. Do you think it would be beneficial to change the SW and LW shafts to the Recoil shafts? I changed irons because the gamers i played JPX800 Pro Forged had DG S300 105 shafts and they were to stiff. I believe changing would possibly allow a bit longer yardage and accuracy as I know they are stiffer than my current gamers.
If you are using them from full swing distances then I would probably change. If you only hit partial shots with them then it's 50:50 for me.
Great video, was wondering about tipping .370 graphite iron shafts to keep flex the same, and how do you keep the weight the same through the set of parallel tip graphite irons, or does the head weight make up for the shorter shaft?
you just hope for the best and use brass or tungsten weights for small swing weight adjustment if necessary, 370 parallel starts at the same weight, as you trim both ends the weight will decrease. if you are keen on keeping all the shafts the same weight, you should get 355 tapered shaft and use .355 to .370 brass shim. tapered shaft are the same weight regardless of the length. how you approach it is purely based on feel, tapered vs parallel trim to manufacture's suggestion may feel different to some players.
@@humorss Thanks for the reply, I am just tinkering with an old set of irons with some cheap shafts I found on eBay. So tip weights it will be. I was just wondering if you had to tip trim as much or more than you do steel to keep stiffness.
@@jameshodges8239 should follow mfg suggestion, usually 1/2 inch for 3i and 3 1/2 inch for 9-wedge. 1/2 inch for each club, trim more for stiffer shaft.
@@jameshodges8239 be careful tip trimming, some shafts are butt trim only. Check the OEM for their shaft trimming tables
@@paulmilsom1346 Thanks for the reply. Can't find specific trimming instructions but following their similar shafts trim instructions, seems to be working. Oh they are .370 tip iron shafts so pretty safe tip trimming them.
Your board for setting the clubs after epoxy is that homemade? Can you share the specs to make one of these? Thank you!
It's a 2x4 with a 30 degree wedge on one side so the club can rest with the shaft straight up at 90 degrees. Then just a bumper piece to keep the head from sliding down the wedge.
I’m going to do one of my irons first to see if I like it. My current irons are 5-PW. Which one should I do ?
Something in the middle if only doing 1.
Where can I get the wooden dowels for 0 weight spacing? I can't find any in the Golfworks catalogue. Thanks so much.
Those are just basic hardware store dowels. Very often, a hardware store is just as good as a golf specific retailer!
What swing weight did you end up with here? I don't think you ever told us.
So, I am replacing the KBS Tour 120 S shafts in my Mizuno MP-54s, with AeroTech Steel Fiber fc 90 cw shafts and would like to get them fairly close to the D2 they were from the factory. At this point it looks like I'll be adding anywhere from .5 to 4 grams of weight to each head (other than the heaviest, the 8 iron) to bring them to a 7 gm difference per club. Is there a way to guestimate what they will be when they are assembled?
Btw, I really enjoy your videos. I made and repaired/refinished clubs in the 1980s and 90s before metal woods took over. Things have changed!!!
The KBS Tour is pretty butt weighted and the Aerotech are as well but to a lesser extent. You can dry fit them together and use an online SW calculator. If you are dropping 30g, your swing weight will change but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I never assume a SW in one shaft weight will translate the same into a different weight shaft.
Hi AJ. David Nell here. I have a set of Taylor Made SLDR irons with their stock graphite shafts, stiff flex. I am considering having them restarted with a regular flex shaft around 70 grams. Any recommendations? Thanks.
I really like Aerotech Steelfiber shafts. I think they are the most consistent graphite iron shafts you can buy. There is a reason they are the most popular graphite shaft across PGA, LPGA, and Champions Tour.
I assume adding the tip weight changes the CG of the head? Do you know much the CG has changed when you added the 2-3 gram weight?
Adding weight inline with the shaft doesn't change the CG enough for any human to notice. Also adding a few grams to a 275g head for example isn't going to change performance.
Hi,
I'd like to move into graphite shafts. My idea was to install an old shaft (a discontinued Penley model: "Graphite Light'',Regular 70g) that I had from the beginning. I set up my 8 iron and it turns out the shaft is too soft. I had a lot of dispersion to the right (when usually my bad shots go to the left). However, I loved the feel, but I had to swing out of my natural tempo to control the club.
So, is there any solution to these shafts? To cut the tip to stiffen them would be work ? Do you think is it worth trying? If so, how much do have I to trim the tip? And to fix the length afterwards, which is better to install a plug in the hosel or an extender in the butt?
Thank you!
You can tip trim them an inch or so and that will stiffen them. You then would use graphite shaft extensions to add the length back to the butt end.
I am reshafting my copper beryllium irons and I hope you can help me. The SHAFTS have varied weights! One is 73g, one is 74g, one is 75, 3 are 76 and three are 77. I can tip weight the tip of the shaft to make the iron heads fall in 7g increments, but how would you attack the variances in shaft weights? These are all raw length and raw weight shaft measurements. No cuts yet. THANK YOU!
These are taper tip shafts for Pings? What shafts are you using? That variance between shafts is not great but no enough that most people would notice it. Your options are limited if these are tapered. Just focus on getting the head weights right for consistent feel. A few grams spread over the length of the shaft will not be noticeable except on a static weight measurement.
Do you prefer the torch over a heat gun to loosen heads? Any advantage of one over the other?
Depends on the application.
Should the shaft tip fit snugly or be close in diameter to the hosel opening? What if anything can tighten it up? My Ping g425 6iron head came loose from the Ping graphite shaft it came from the factory with. When I cleaned all the old epoxy off both and reset it with new epoxy, beads, and the ferrule, it was still a very loose fit. I had to hold it as straight as possibly for a while as the epoxy set as the lie angle could be adjusted quite a bit by how I held the shaft in the hosel…if that makes sense. Of course it all came loose again after a few weeks of use. Any suggestions for me to give it another diy try?
Buy some brass shims from Golfworks that you install over the shaft tip before insertion into the hosel.
@@EFGMC thank you!
can i get an infomation about your sandpaper dowel where did you get it?
in amazon lots of sandpaper dowels but different shape
These are from golfworks.com
Question: My clubs are 1 inch long. What's the best way to reshaft to graphite and keep the length?
Graphite is ideal for longer builds because it's lighter so you can mitigate some of the weight increase that comes from such builds. Nothing different as far as the build goes, just cut them to longer final lengths.
Is there a big difference between the air compression "grip on" and the traditional way?
Some grips can't be installed with air but for the ones that can, not much difference other than ease of install/removal.
With the 1/4" weights Is 1" of shaft depth enough with the graphite reshaft?
One inch is plenty for any club.
I am switching to Graphite from Steel, but I would like to lower my SW to D0, how can I make this happen. Many thanks. Great shows
How much weight are you dropping in the graphite shafts? Lose about 1 SWP per 9 grams of shaft weight so 20g lighter shaft would take a typical D2 set down close to D0.
@@EFGMC 15g shaft drop, if I put a lighter grip on, should work out right, thanks very much, for your time, I’m a 78 year old, bin playing for 7 years, have two new shoulder, left handed, with a 18 HC, So I need all the help I can get. Thanks very much. Les
Is it worth getting a set of pull out graphite shafts from club fitter and instal these into my set of heads i brought from ebay.
If the shafts are a good fit for you, are in good condition, and are the right length for the build you are doing.
Hi AJ, picked up tips on spacer technique. With your help I reshafted from AMT irons to KBS graphite iron 80gms. The swing weight changed from D4 to D8. I’m trying out the clubs at D8 and if I want to lower the SW, is butt weight the way to go? That would be 4gms for 1 SW? Thanks
Just remember if you add butt weight to "lower swingweight" you are also adding overall weight. So if the club's "feel" heavy at D8 you are actually making the club heavier by adding butt weights.
That is correct but I don't know that I would want to add 16g of weight to the butt end. Yes, you would make a SW scale say what you want, but the static weight of the club would go way up counteracting the lighter shaft that you installed.
If you do want to go that route I would try it first on just 1 club and see what the results feel like before doing the whole set.
AMTs are ascending weight shafts…Red being in the 105g range. Going to 80g graphite at same length I would expect SW to go down unless you increased the club length with 80g graphite to accommodate some other change or added head weight.
Yes I'm not sure if you kept the same length and grip weight how you went from 115-130 gram shafts to 80 and your swingweight went up 4 points?!?
@@jonnydaniel195 hi Jonny, replaced AMT black. The lighter shafts obviously moved D4 to a higher D12/E0 without shaft cut. An 1/2” cut moved this down to D8 - however since my height is 5.10, I’ve kept length 1/2” longer across irons (6 iron is 38) as I’ve struggled with the crouching stance in the shorter irons. Yes if I cut a further 1/2” this may go to D4. Hence my Q of butt weight. Thanks for the feedback.
Awesome video. Making a driving iron out of an old 3 iron, changing from steel to graphite shaft. May be a dumb question, but is the length measurement for a Standard 3 iron graphite shaft the length of the shaft alone or the total length of the club with the head and grip installed?
Also how do you know where to cut the graphite shaft. Most come with specs to cut off some of the tip end.
I think you just answered my question in another one of your videos using the 48" ruler to measure from the floor to the end of the grips butt is the length. Correct?
@@Kyle19882770 The final length is measured from the back of the club head sitting level on the ground to the butt end of the grip.
As far as cutting from the tip end of the shaft, you will only do that if you have a .370 blank shaft. This would be determined usually by what make and model head it is going into. If you have a .355 (taper) tip shaft, you don't want to cut anything off the tip because you buy a specific shaft length designed for that head.
Thank U so much for the response. I bought a MCS E=MC2 graphite iron shaft to put in an old Mizuno MP-15 3 iron, to use as a driving iron type club. The hosel is .370 and the shaft has a .370 tip. In the description it says the shaft is 41" in length. For S-Flex it says to cut the tip for a 3 iron 1". I would like a standard 39.5" 3 iron.
So cut an inch off the tip of the shaft, then with the grip butt I will be close to that 39.5"..? Is that the way to do it?
I see in your video you cut the graphite with a grinder cut off, any tips on how to do it with home tools, ie hacksaw blade?
@@Kyle19882770 Hacksaw with a high tooth count blade. I wrap with masking tape.
How much do you charge to do five through sand wedge,on Ping 410 useing same grips. Ping senior graphite shafts.
Email me with the exact specs and work you are looking for.
adam@elitefitgolf.com
Can .370 tip graphites fit into regular irons? Because irons usually come in with .355 tips if it is steel.
Yes, just sand down the graphite tip until you get a good fit in the .355 hosel.
Easier than rubberbanding the grip. Just take and old grip that was sliced down the middle. Throw it around the shaft. Also accounts for the buff end of it in the measurement.
This works if you have the same grip weight as the ones you are installing. Also you need to look out for the shaft cutting into the grip over time so that the shaft eventually sits higher up in the grip than it would otherwise thereby throwing off the measurements.
did you cut the length off of the remaining shafts the same as off the 4i? Are those the steelfiber Constant Weight versions?
Same amount was cut off the butt ends for the 5-9 irons. The 4 iron was slightly different because I used a different model head with a different bottom bore to ground measurement. The PW was also 1/4 inch different because I stager my 9 to PW a 1/4 inch.
These were the 110i CW shafts.
Slightly off topic … I used the compressed air method to install my new JUMBOMAX STR8 TECH NON-TAPERED Ultralite XL grips on my cobra one length steel shafts, but it did not work … Grips would spin under hitting pressure … I am presuming due to what these grips are made of that this method doesn’t work?
The jumbo max grips are a 2 piece grip, like Winn grips. The air most likely caused the grip to separate from the core or under listing of the grip and that’s what is causing the grip to spin.
Question, why are new graphite shafts for irons sold or listed as 4-SW or some other combination? Wouldn't they come from the store all being the same length to be trimmed by the installer? Shouldn't the new shaft be inserted into the targeted hosel then the butt trimmed to spec length? Surely every iron head from every manufacturer doesn't add the same length to the shaft?
Taper tip shafts, which some graphite shafts are, are pre manufactured to match up with the weight of a specific iron head. Parallel tip shafts will almost always be 41 or 42 inches and require you to cut them first from the tip to determine how they flex and then from the butt to determine length.
Do you make the graphite shafts any longer or shorter or same size ?
Some people and companies will. It's really a personal decision depending on what kind of swing weight you are wanting to feel since the graphite shafts will usually come out lighter at the same length unless you add head weight.
Would this process differ greatly if I wanted to switch to shafts that were very much lighter than 110g, (eg 60g)
Not at all. The weighting will be different as the SWs will likely be much lighter and you won't necessarily be able to get up as heavy unless you are building extra long. Everything else is the same. And make sure your irons have that beveled top edge (pretty much all name brand heads do), as a squared off top edge creates a sharp point that can crack the shaft over time.
@@EFGMC thought so. I did this in the very early 90s to a set of taylormade tour preferred blades. Lead tape came to the rescue 😁👍
Hello AJ,
after applying a piece of brass on some iron, you don't check the swing weigth, i suppose It increase the SW from original D3, i'm right? Or I miss some point ...
What brass are you referencing?
@@EFGMC in the video you put inside the hosel a brass spacer in order to obtain 7g weight progression starting form the much heavier head to each other, this mean you obtain an increase of SW ... right?
Great, but I have been thinking of doing the opposite. I enjoyed steel shafts but was talked into graphite, but they don't feel right. Can I do job?
Watch this video if you haven't seen it. Steel shafts using just basic around the house type tools.
czcams.com/video/rwKquntylmM/video.html
@@EFGMC HELP! My Callaway 4 wood has split at the hosel. Can I cut it off there and insert it into the hosel after getting out the broken bit? The shorter shaft may even make it easier to hit the ball?
@@CCHRISTOF If it's a clean break you may be able to reuse. You will have lost about 1 inch of shaft at least on top of the 1/2 inch they tip at factory. You should still have enough parallel tip section to make it fit, assuming my estimates above are correct for your situation. Will also depend on what shaft was in it. If you have some calipers, I would measure where the shaft starts to taper out, then you will know if you can reuse, at least based shaft fitting in the hosel. FYI the shaft will get a good bit stiffer now and the swing weight will drop, so you might want to add some lead tape to get it back in line.
Question: are shafts meant for a set of irons all manufactured originally to the same length, then trimmed for final installation? Follow up: would it be ok to take a shaft pulled from a 4-iron and trim it to gap wedge size?
Two different types of iron shafts, parallel and taper tip or .370 vs .355 tip. Parallel (.370) shafts almost always come as uniform blanks where you cut differing amounts from the tip to adjust for flex and launch. Taper tip (.355) is pre designed for a particular matching iron head so a taper tip 7 iron head would get a taper tip 7 iron shaft.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the quick reply. I left out an important detail - the shafts I am considering are SteelFiber i80 graphite pulled from a set 4-UW. I will use them to replace the Ping CFS steel in my 6-LW irons. Wondered if the 4-5 shafts can be trimmed for my SW-LW.
Can you help me out. How much does a shaft insert into a Mizuno driver adaptor. I installed one on a new shaft but I don’t think it went all the way in. Shaft 46” and with adaptor its 47 1/4.
About 1 1/4 inch. If you have it 1 full inch epoxied in, it should still hold without issue. My rule is 3/4 inch or less is cause for concern.
@@EFGMC Thanks. Its actually 47 1/8. 2” adaptor length gives me 7/8 inside adaptor. Will know next time if it fails. 🤞
Once you put a graphite shaft in , if you take it out (to add weight let’s say) can you re install it or do you need a new one??
Talking about reusing the shaft?
If so then yes you can. The tip weights for graphite are pretty thick at the base however so you may need to do some modifications. If you are only doing part of a set, I would tip trim those shafts the amount equal to the tip weight height. That way the flex will remain consistent with the rest of the set.
If you are adding weight to the entire set you can do the same to all the clubs or just not tip them and know the shafts will all play slightly softer. Of course they will now also be slightly over length.
@@EFGMC thanks AJ
What kind of air compressor did you use?
That’s a Kobalt tire inflator set to 60psi
if you are a standard length in steel shaft (37" 7 Iron), is the graphite standard length the same or a little longer? If it is a little longer should you match the steel standard (7 iron @ 37") when ordering the irons from the manufacturer in a custom order?
Different brands measure differently. Most keep the same length in either but some still make graphite longer by 1/2 inch.
No right or wrong answer here and length is largely subjective. If the longest clubs don't feel too long or the shortest don't feel too short, you are probably okay at that length.
@@EFGMC would you happen to know what Mizuno does with graphite shafts in irons? I'm looking to get some JPX 923 HMP irons with some UST Recoil 95 F4s. I am standard length (average height 5'-9" with 33-5/8" wrist to floor). If I order standard length, will the Recoils come a 1/2 inch longer?
@@electricblue73 It can get tricky. Let me know if you want me to order them in correctly and ship to you.
adam@elitefitgolf.com
What was the name of the machine you used to put your grips on? Did you use any solvent? I have never seen anyone do that before. I am blown away! Last, where do you purchase your club components? 🤯🤯🤯🙌
No solvent, just compressed air. Many of my component shafts, grips, ferrules etc come from Golfworks.
@@EFGMC Thanks!👍
Prepping the tips. No problem dealing with the nano diameter steel fibers when sanding? Doesn’t end up looking like a brush or something?
If you get anywhere close to those fibers, you have sanded way too much. Only want to remove the paint and base coat, nothing more. A good way to check is look at the very butt end of the uncut shaft. They don't pain the very end. That look and color is what you want to see at the tip.
When in doubt, less is more with prepping!
@@EFGMC
Not having a belt sander I hand prep all my tips. Very slowly, so I’ll be okay then. A friend is thinking of getting the SteelFiber so good to know. I was going to buy the i95cw but I decided to pull the Mizuno Tour Spirit MP-i shafts from an old set of JPX850. I pulled the 6i and put it in my JPX921 Forged. Love the feel.
But… the swing weight was like C9. I knew this before gluing it up but didn’t have tip weights. And had trouble finding them online in Japanese shops here. The search was made complicated by Japanese kanji so I decided to use lead tape afterwards. Got it up to D2band the club plays great. Trajectory has gone up and it’s carrying about 165 or so. It’ll work but have managed to find some 6g tip weights. Those are more than heavy enough and I’ll grind them down to whatever weight is required.
Great channel. I check here first when I have questions. Thus the ‘steel to graphite’ clip. Thanks much!!
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,10g….for Steel Fibers…i110 .370 and .355”. For 80,90g SFs and most SF fc models, the tip ID is large enough you can use lead powder and a ..335” cork for exacting SW or MOI. I drill out the i110 CWT SFs. Also convert .370” to .355” for tapered hosels. All are entrapped and supported by epoxy. Same as UST does to convert .370” Recoils to .355” for the OEMs. Cut tips, then sand in taper.
Reply got cut off…you can find thin stem lead tip pins on eBay….in g noted..
@@sloswingspeed9535
Thanks for the info. I found some 6g tip weights. That’s almost dead on D2. If any are too light a bit of lead tape in the back cavity will do the trick.
AJ, this might be a silly question. If im goin from steel to graphite. The difference in shaft weight is say 20 grams. All the adjutment I need to make is the swing weight? With weight tips?
If the SW changes then yes. 20g will usually equal about 2 SWPs but that also assumes that the balance point is the same in the two shafts.
However, never assume that just because you liked a certain SW in one setup, that it will translate into a different setup, ie going from steel to graphite.
@@EFGMC love your content. Thanks for the reply and ill keep watching!
I blind bought a set of MP-4s with Project X PXi 6.5s. How similar is that shaft to DGS300s? I have read that the PXi's play like Project X 6 or 5.5s and that it's stiff throughout the EI curve whereas the DGs are tip stiff?
I've never actually hit with any of the PXi shafts so I can only go off of second hand accounts and specs.
Most important difference with S300 is the weight, as PXi is a good bit lighter. Reviews seem to say it flexes softer, like a DG shaft as compared to a standard PX which I always thought felt very stiff from the middle up through the handle. DG always felt softer to me in those sections.
@@EFGMC Well I played 9 with them today and the clubs definitely felt lighter (~13gm difference from the specs). Slightly stiffer too, but that is fine since my swing speed has gone up noticeably (2 club difference in yadarge from January this year). When I pured the MP-4s it simply felt effortless off the club face - and dare I say it, whilst it's too early to tell, I am almost sure I'm getting about 10 more yards carry over and above my "recent" increase in yardage.
@@diogeneslantern18 Keep me updated on them. Always like to have good shaft info.
How do you know how many grams of tip weight to use to get my swing weight that I want?
2 grams of head weight changes the swing weight 1 pt. Weigh it and then adjust as necessary.
Great video AJ. I’ve done a lot club making for my friends and myself already and I’m still learning a lot from your videos. This particular video is perfect for me. One of my friends bought a set of Steelfiber for me to install but changed his mind and just gave them to me. Now i wanna do the same you did on my irons swapping it from my KBS $Taper 120 to steelfiber, i hope i would like them too. I prolly do it tomorrow after seeing your video 😊 I also love all your DIY gadgets like the wooden iron setting stand, i will copy you on that, Thanks! On your ruler, looks like you attached a hinge, how can make it stay to 60* for measuring clubs? Thanks again for all the videos.
Happy New Year! 🎆🎊💥🎉🍾
Thanks. I don't measure irons using the 60 degree angle, I use the actual lie angle on each club so my hinge can move around. The difference between the two methods is very small and the important thing is just to be consistent in your method. Every brand measures things differently so you just need to choose how you want to do it.
The only time 60 degree would be necessary is if you are building an over length driver and need to be sure you aren't going over the maximum USGA allowed length.